Tuesday 29th November 2016 Kyoto Day 12

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1 Tuesday 29th November 2016 Kyoto Day 12 Today we explored the hills to the west. We took a bus and two different trains to get to the starting point of the hike, and began walking around 9 am. Our first stop took us into the middle of an ancient bamboo grove to the bamboo temple, Jizo-In. This was very relaxed and peaceful with tall bamboos, moss and some nice views of momoji. From here we climbed up passing the famous moss garden temple, which it appears can now only be accessed by prior appointment. The hike started soon after this ascending fairly steeply through the bamboo groves. It was in fact a lovely trail, although it did involve quite a lot of up and false tops. It was all through forest, but we did get odd glimpses of Kyoto and beyond way below us. We eventually descended to the busy Arashiyama area and the river around midday in time for our picnic of onigiri (rice balls), mekan (oranges) and chocolate.

2 We did not wander for long as it was very crowded, and we had been before for the start of a different hike, so we ended up in the 'kimono forest' by the little Randen Arashiyama Line. After a coffee, we took this line which is very old fashioned and actually goes down the middle of the street in places. We had hatched a plan to go in search of a noren shop, which actually did not exist where it was marked on the map (thanks, Google!), but it got us walking through a whole different district of backstreets, and if we had not done that we would not have seen three poodles being carried by two monks and a nun to a temple! We came back on the Tozai line and walked through Nanzenji to get home after a long walk. We met Midori and John last night at the Kushihachi Izakaya at Hyakumenben where we had eaten together ten days ago. There was a lot to catch up on over some delicious food. This time we chose some mushroom sticks and asparagus bacon amongst the mix. We got ideas for next a visit. Apparently there is an excellent modern museum on an island in the Inland sea. It is called Benesse House museum on Naoshima island - it sounded so interesting. Wednesday 30th November 2016 Kyoto Day 13 Today was perhaps the most challenging hike although we took advantage of mechanical means to get up the hill! It was the missing link between several of our walks, and we began by taking a funicular (Am: cable car) from the end of the train line up Mt Hiei, the highest mountain in the area. This did not mean that we did not have several tricky steep ups and downs, but it did mean we began at a good height, and it dropped to only one degree centigrade at the

3 top! We will be leaving at just the right time in terms of the clothes we have with us. Exertion kept us warm. The trail was absolutely lovely with occasional glimpses of the whole of Kyoto to the left, and of Lake Biwa to the right. We only met two people in the entire four hours of hiking. The first was a young man from Taiwan who was working here, and so pleased to have a chat, especially when he knew we had lived in Taiwan for nine years and loved hiking there. The other was a man with a very loud bell on his backpack to scare away the bears. This was quite comforting for a long way, and when we actually met up he was keen to point out an alternative route which avoided a very steep up and down to the summits of Mt Yokotakayama and Mt Mizuiyama (794m), and he even waited to point us on the right way! We missed hearing his bell after that! We had bought onigiri (rice balls) in Demachiyanagi at a shop recommended by Jacoba, so enjoyed a picnic lunch with a viewpoint, and also had kaki and mikan (persimmon and oranges) to keep us going. The trail down to Ohara followed a stream, which we crisscrossed a couple of times, and eventually emerged in the fields above Ohara. From here we were familiar territory with

4 the bus down the valley, swapping for a train, and then another bus home. I think our legs are going to feel this one tonight!

5 Misa picked us up at 5:30 pm in her Figaro car which is very cute - just enough space in the back for a 'supple' Stephanie! She took us to the back of beyond (of suburbia) to a very special restaurant owned and run by the parent of a student she tutored. It was just a house in a small neighbourhood next to a beauty parlour, which it turns out is run by the 83 year old mother of the lady running the restaurant. The place was quite intimate, and we were the only customers downstairs sitting in front of the husband who prepared the fish in front of us. There was a group of five in a private room upstairs, so for them everything had to be carried up and down on trays. The food was all part of a set, so no menu, and courses just came and went as and when we had all finished eating. Everything was made from fresh ingredients, and homemade. It was all cordon bleu food with attention to detail in the way everything was served and the dishes chosen for the season or shape. Even the sake had to be chosen, and special sake pot and cups were selected. The lady was in charge of the sake. There were three young staff in training who did a lot of the running up and down stairs, and in bringing things in from the kitchen. First course - a water glass with sea urchin, shrimp and egg custard Second course - hamaguri (a shellfish) served in its shell in a soup Third course - six different bites on a plate, including apple and red wine jelly, oyster, sea urchin with chrysanthemum in jelly, fish liver, chicken soufflé baked with poppy seeds (the last was the star of this dish) Four course - sashimi (raw fish) fifth course - fish potato mountain in a broth Sixth course - sushi made up of half mackerel half rice Seventh course - tempura (deep fried battered prawn, fish roe, ginko nuts, carrot and a black bean Eight course - rice with mushroom, pickle, miso shiru soup Ninth course - dessert; bean mochi with yuzu with powdered almond You can see all the dishes except the last one in the Kyoto 2 album along with the other photos we didn't have space for here.

6 Phew! We also had beer, and then two sakes one called Black Dragon and one called Black Ox to go with this, as well as Japanese tea. This was a very fitting end to our time with Misa in Kyoto. We will probably not see her again till our return in February. We leave Kyoto on Friday but there may just be one more Kyoto blog before we reach New Zealand. John & Stephanie

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