Chef to Chef. Savannah, Georgia. The Westin Savannah Harbor Golf Resort & Spa A C L U B & R E S O R T B U S I N E S S

Transcription

1 Chef to Chef A C L U B & R E S O R T B U S I N E S S C O N F E R E N C E Savannah, Georgia The Westin Savannah Harbor Golf Resort & Spa March 1-3, 2015

2 Chef to Chef March 1-3, 2015 Savannah, Georgia Baking Bread

3 Why Do In House Breads? Are some of you doing bread? It s a Bang for Your Buck Item For the effort compared to buying It will be worth it. Members will no?ce, cooks will no?ce and it saves a lot of money. The steps are short and have a way of geeng tucked into people s days, essen?ally free of cost.

4 Which Breads to Make Bread lists at clubs are long. Many breads that we buy, we are best off buying. Avoid making breads that require perfect uniformity. (sliced breads for club sandwiches) Look to make breads for a stand alone impact or for savings. A la carte table bread is the one!

5 Why not make easy breads? Savory Biscuits like the ones we saw at last year s Chef to Chef. Au Lait Rolls - sop, rich and delicious Popovers

6 Quick, Easy Breads One or two of these three easy breads can be in your bread basket every night. If you are buying high quality bread for a la carte, at $.40 per roll or a similar number, the pennies per piece price for house made will add up quickly These have great impact on the members, especially when the servers say they are made daily, in house.

7 Quick, Easy Breads - Biscuits The herb biscuit dough comes together very quickly, especially with the trick of using frozen bu=er and a box grater. Scooping the biscuits with a por?oning scoop, rather than rolling and cueng is also very fast, as we saw here last year. Various lepovers go into the dough for biscuits named roasted pepper and bacon or whatever you have around. Cooks, dishwashers and even servers enjoy helping with the biscuits really!

8 Quick, Easy Breads Au Lait Rolls If you have good flour and fresh yeast in house (which I will go over a bit later) the au lait rolls are very easy and up from start to finish in 4 hours. The dough is rich and forgiving, with bu]er, milk, sugar and eggs. Even if it gets away on you, you can throw it on a sheet pan and it makes awesome focccacia The cueng and rolling is quite fun and again everyone will want to help really!

9 Quick, Easy Breads - Popovers I got the recipe for Popovers from Chef Mark Chaput at Vineyard Golf Club Thanks Chef Mark. They are so easy and so good! The ba]er takes a few minutes. Then it s into the muffin?ns and the whole thing takes less than an hour. They are a deligh`ul bread with a retro flair. Everyone likes them and they are great if you are in a?me crunch. Again, staff think they are really fun.

10 Recipes for Easy Breads Here is a link to detailed recipes for these rela?vely quick and easy breads. h]ps:// There is a lot of detail and my contact informa?on if you need help. But you won t.

11 Ar?san Bread To make your bread program have a truly legit feel, you need to have one bread that is an ar?san style, crusty bread. It s bread bakery bread. It s the kind of bread that you don t open see coming out of restaurant ovens. I am going to show you how to do this with ciaba]a.

12 Ciaba]a Ciaba]a dough is very forgiving and versa?le. It works for loaves, rolls, foccacia, pan pizza, etc. Though you open see the shapeless slipper it actually shapes up fairly nicely.

13 Equipment Equipment you probably have: Stand Mixer with Dough Hook Speed Rack An oven that is free in the apernoon A digital, medium sized gram scale A few bus tubs with lids

14 Equipment Equipment you may not have at present: Wooden proof boards (26 x 18 inch) 3 sheet pans lined with half thickness fire bricks 27 x 4 inch flipping board 26 inch wide baking linen/muslin, 5 or 6 pieces, each piece about 36 inches long Metal bench scraper/dough divider

15 Equipment Photo of board, muslin and flipping board

16 Fire Brick Sheet Pans Photo of Fire Brick Sheet Pan (aper a couple or three years )

17 Fire Brick Sheet Pan These bricks are the real game changers of ar?san bread baking in an ordinary restaurant. Put three brick pans in the oven for an hour before the bake. The oven becomes radiant and does not lose heat. Crusty breads are baked directly on the bricks. Remove the HOT and HEAVY (35 lb.) pans and the oven is back to normal.

18 Sourcing Fire Bricks h]ps:// bricks

19 Making the Brick Pan The bricks go in alterna?ng style and you are lep with having to cut a few bricks in half and rounding a few corners. To ones that need to be cut you can mark with a sharpie and get them cut for you (your facili?es team?) The corner rounding can be done with a hammer and chisel. It s pre]y easy even if you are not at all handy (like me) and probably someone on your staff is handy and can help.

20 Ingredients Sir Galahad Flour Fresh Yeast Everything else, you have.

21 Sir Galahad Sir Galahad flour is a high quality, consistent, all purpose flour with a protein content of 11.7%. Right around 12% is where you want it to be. Bread flour has a protein content of 13% which is too high.

22 Biga It starts with a starter and a biga works great. A biga is a pre- ferment which gives dough more character because the very small yeast ra?o takes?me to grow and rise. The Italian Biga is dryer than its French counterpart, Poolish. Because it is not quite as liquid the yeast grows more slowly. The slower growth allows for a longer acceptable window and makes them easier to work with.

23 Biga Recipe For a 2500 gram batch, which will be enough biga to add to a final mix that will yield about 90 rolls (each roll 56 grams) Sir Galahad Flour 1562 gram Water 937 grams Yeast 2 grams Mix on first speed un?l well incorporated. Transfer to a bus tub brushed with olive oil and a lid. Super quick and easy, just three ingredients. Have your PM Pantry make it at 9 or 10pm the night before. Store in a reasonably cool spot like a store room.

24 Biga in the Morning Here is what the biga looks like in the morning. It should be bubbly and ac?ve with a good smell. If it has a strong iodine smell it has gone too far the yeast has consumed all the food. Depending on the temperature of your store room, you may need to tweak your biga.

25 Tweaking the Biga If it is geeng there too fast, cut back on the yeast. If it is geeng there too slow, add more yeast. OR Use warmer water to speed it up. Cooler water to slow it down. Yeast is a living, moving ingredient.

26 Final Mix Now that we have a nice biga, we make the final mix. The final mix uses some biga as part of it s composi?on. It also uses flour, water, yeast (in a much higher ra?o) and salt.

27 Final Mix Recipe for Ciaba]a Water (about degrees F) grams Sir Galahad Flour 1351 grams Fresh Yeast 14 grams Kosher Salt 59 grams Biga (from last night) 2162 grams 1216

28 Final Mix Procedure Start with the measured warmish water in a stainless bowl. Measure and add the fresh yeast. Swish with a whisk un?l dissolved. Scale out all other ingredients: (the salt, the flour, the biga) and keep them separate.

29 Final Mix Procedure Put the yeast/water into the mixing bowl first and add the flour. Mix on speed 1 for 45 seconds. Add the salt and mix for 45 seconds, also on speed 1. Add the biga in a few pieces and mix on speed 1 for 6 minutes. The low speed mix is mostly about geeng everything well incorporated.

30 Final Mix Next, mix on speed 2 for an addi?onal 6-10 minutes. Almost always, new bakers under mix on second speed and do not develop the strength that should be there. Look for the signs of strength.

31 Signs of Strength Glossy finish. It should look nice and glossy. Pull it to make a see through window.

32 Bulk Proof Dough goes into a bus tub with a li]le olive oil for an hour. We could have added olives or nuts or other ingredients to the dough toward the end of the speed 1 mix, but be careful about water content. APer an hour, give it a fold, and leave it for another hour. Fold it again and leave it for a half hour.

33 Shape Dump the tub out onto a floured table. Flour the top. Cut, shape and couche (loaves) or Cut and couche (rolls) Loaves are nice at about 400 grams. Rolls are nice at about grams.

34 Shape To cut the pieces you start with a row and impose a grid. It is like cueng banquet por?ons from a huge halibut filet. You would want to weigh loaves. Rolls you can start out weighing but aper a few minutes you will be able to eyeball 55 grams close enough. The li]le square rolls require no shaping, the couche does the work. Loaves require a li]le hand shaping.

35 Couche means couch... Dough on Couche

36 Couche The ridge shaped slots that you make with the couche gives the bread a nice place to rest and be comfortable. The dough s shape is guided by the couche. It can rise up, but not sideways through the ridges. If you are making loaves, they do not have to look perfect they will be sliced anyway. Use the excess length of the couche to flip over the top of the board, so the dough is snugly tucked in, warm and moist.

37 Bake Meanwhile the oven has been set at 450 with the bricks for an hour. Using the flipping s?ck, transfer the rolls or loaves directly onto the hot bricks. Leave the bricks in the oven and transfer with the s?ck. Throw a bit of ice on the oven floor just before you close the door for a quick injec?on of steam.

38 On the bricks Bake

39 Bake When they are nice and brown they are done!

40 At Service Each day we have at least one quick bread and usually ciaba]a rolls. We set them up on half sheet pans, with a li]le bit of each type of bread on the pan. Throughout service, we flash half sheet pans so everyone gets a freshly flashed combo. Rolls and single piece items (biscuits, popovers, etc.) are easier to manage than slicing loaves all through service.

41 Other Breads Just so you know, the biga pre- ferment works as the starter for several other breads, including bague]e, mul?grain, and one called sofiata. The recipes are on that same link page. Also, if you get some wicker baskets from TBM, you can use ciaba]a or other doughs to make rounds for banquet sta?ons or display breads.