IX. Fermented and preserved animal foods
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1 IX. Fermented and preserved animal foods 1. Ngari 2. Hentak 3. Tungtap 4. Fermented fish 5. Crab 6. Animal fats 7. Fish 8. Utonggari 9. Kargyong 10. Kheuri 11. Satchu 12. Suka Ko Masu 13. Chilu 14. Chartayshya 15. Geema (Jamma) Other fermented and preserved animal foods Sukako, Sha-kampo, Gnuchi, Sidra, Sukuti, Karoti, Bardia, Sukako machha, Sukula, Singiamis.
2 1. Ngari Place of origin/usage: Manipur and Assam. Time of consumption: As curry. Usual composition/ingredients: Puntius sophore ( Phoubu ) Fish. Method of preparation: Following two methods are practiced. Fish is washed with water using porous bamboo based baskets and allowed to drain. Next day morning, the head and bones are removed and pressed using gunny bags to remove excess water. Oil released from head during pressing is believed to cause initiating fermentation. In the mean time, inner surface of earthen pot (capacity of kg) is coated with mustard oil. For new pots, 8-10 times oil coating are required with interval of 7-10 days. In old pots, only one coat is sufficient for fermentation. Oil coating might be creating anaerobic environment inside the chamber. The pressed dry fish is packed tightly inside the pot. After packing, pots are sealed with polythene sheet, fish scales, oil slurry, mud and cow dung slurry. These packed pots are kept in dark up to 6-12 months at room temperature. The fish (Puntius sophore) is rubbed with salt, dried in the sun for 3-4 days, pressed tightly in an earthen pot, sealed airtight and then stored at room temperature for 4-6 months. Nature of fermentation: Lactic acid fermentation. Condition(s) of fermentation: Anaerobic condition is necessary. Microorganism(s) involved: Lactococcus lactis sub sp. cremoris, Lactococcus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus fructosus, L.amylophilus, L.corneformis sub sp. torquens and Lactobacillus plantarum, Bacillus subtilis, B. pumilus, Micrococcus, Candida and Saccharomycopsis. Method of consumption: Side dish with cooked rice. Nutritional profile of food: 18% moisture, 45% proteins, 19% lipids and 11% ash. Reference(s): Sarojnalini and Vishwanath, 1994, Thapa et al., 2004, Jeyaram et al., Hentak Place of origin/usage: Manipur.
3 Usual composition/ingredients: Esomus danricus (Fish), petioles of Alocasia macrorhiza. Method of preparation: The sun dried Esomus danricus are crushed to powder, the petioles of Alocasia macrorhiza are cut into pieces washed with water and exposed to sunlight for an hour. An equal weight of the cut pieces is then crushed along with fish powder to make a paste. Small balls are prepared and put in earthen pots and stored. After two weeks of fermentation, it is ready to use and are preserved. Nature of fermentation: Lactic acid fermentation. Microorganism(s) involved: Lactococcus lactis sub sp. cremoris, Lactococcus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus fructosus, L.amylophilus, L.corneformis sub sp. torquens, Lactobacillus plantarum, Bacillus subtilis, B. pumilus, Micrococcus, Candida and Saccharomycopsis. Method of consumption: Consumed as curry as well as a condiment with boiled rice. Method of storage/preservation: These become hardened on keeping for few months and are then propounded to paste with a little water and stored as balls for reserve food. Reference(s): Sarojnalini and singh, 1988, Jeyaram et al., Tungtap Place of origin/usage: Mahalaya. Usual composition/ingredients: Danio sp. (Fish). Method of preparation: Danio sp. is mixed with salt kept in an earthen pot and fermented for 4-7 days. Nature of fermentation: Lactic acid fermentation. Microorganism(s) involved: Lactococcus lactis sub sp. cremoris, Lactococcus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus fructosus, L.amylophilus, L.corneformis sub sp. Torquens, Lactobacillus plantarum, Bacillus subtilis, B. pumilus, Micrococcus, Candida and Saccharomycopsis. Method of consumption: This fermented fish paste consumed as a pickle. Nutritional profile of food: Tungtap (100g) contains dry matter content was 66.5g, protein 40.6g, fat 19.6g, fiber 0.4g and ash 32.2g, Ca 5040mg, P 1930mg, Na 6.26mg and K 53.18mg.
4 Reference(s): Thapa et al., 2004, Murugkar and Subbulakshmi, Fermented fish Place of origin/usage: Manipur. Importance of the food: The process of fermentation, however, enhances the palatability basically by softening the bones and improving the flavor and texture of the meat. Trash fishes are small in size and bony in nature and are often discarded or used as animal feed. Usual composition/ingredients: Puntias sophore (Trash fish). Method of preparation: The fish (Puntias sophore) is initially descaled and degutted. Salt is applied thoroughly on the inside as well as the outside. The fish is then placed in a clay pot. The clay pot is filled with a mixture of salt and either fish fat or pork fat, covered using a banana leaf and bound tightly at the rim using a jute cord. This clay pot is then left as such for a period of 6-7 months at room temperature. After this time, the cord is opened and the fish is taken out. The extra salt and fat is removed with the help of a sharp knife and the fish is used. Nature of fermentation: Lactic acid fermentation. Microorganism(s) involved: Lactic acid bacteria. Method of consumption: The fish has a soft spongy texture and is commonly used in the form of Chutney with green leaves, onions and chillies. In this case, the whole fish including the head and bones (which soften during fermentation) are consumed. Reference(s): Murugkar and Subbulakshmi, Crab Place of origin/usage: Northeastern India Usual composition/ingredients: Crabs, Sesamum orientale L. (ground blacktil). Method of preparation: Crabs are washed, hard appendages and entrails removed, ground and mixed properly with Sesamum orientale L. (ground blacktil) wrapped in banana leaves, Macaranga indica or Phrynium pubinerve leaf and kept over the fireplace in the kitchen for a week to ferment. On opening the wrapped banana leaf, it gives a strong inherent smell and is ready for use in cooking or chutney preparation.
5 Reference(s): Mao and Odyuo, Animal fats Place of origin/usage: Northeastern India. Usual composition/ingredients: Animal fat. Method of preparation: Similar to fish fermentation. Method of cooking: The fermented fat is stored in the bamboo and usually a spoon of it is added during cooking of vegetable curry to soften the vegetables and also it impart nice taste to the curry. Reference(s): Mao and Odyuo, Fish Place of origin/usage: Northeastern India. Usual composition/ingredients: Small fishes. Method of preparation: Small fishes are used as a whole and big ones are cut into smaller pieces. Fish is washed and put inside a bamboo (normally in Dendrocalamus hamiltonii Nees et Arn. ex Munro) and tightly plugged with leaves and kept over the fire place for fermentation. Within few days, the fish becomes fermented and ready for use as a taste maker for vegetable curry. Period of storage/preservation: The fermented fish can only be stored for a period of one month as it rots gradually and becomes unpalatable. Reference(s): Mao and Odyuo, Utonggari Place of origin/usage: Assam. Usual composition/ingredients: Fishes. Preferred quality of raw materials: Local fish (named phobou ). Method of preparation: In an earthen pot, the required quantity of fish are put air tightly and after pressing it, the post is covered with the mud and left for over 2-3 months for
6 fermentation. Sometimes, the whole earthen pot is covered with banana leaves and mud to make it airtight. After 2-3 months, earthen pot is opened and fermented fish is taken out for use. Method of consumption: It is consumed along with fermented bamboo shoots and leafy vegetables. Reference(s): Singh et al., 2007(b). 9. Kargyong Usual composition/ingredients: Meat of yak/cattle/pigs. Method of preparation: It is usually prepared during November to December. It is soft or hard and brownish in colour. During preparation, the lean meat of yak/ cattle/ pigs with its fat are chopped finely, and combined with crushed garlic, ginger and required amount of salt and mixed with little amount of water. The mixture is stuffed into the segment of gastrointestinal tract of animal (yak/ox/pig) locally called gyuma, used as natural casings with 3-4 cm in diameter and cm length. One end of the casing is tied up with rope and other end is sealed after stuffing and boiled for min. Cooked sausages are taken out and hung in the bamboo stripes above the kitchen oven for smoking and drying for days or more to make kargyong. Due to use of natural casings, kargyong has a natural curve shape. Method of consumption: Kargyong is eaten after boiling for min, sliced and fried in edible oil by adding onion, tomato, powdered or ground chilies, and salt and is made into curry. It is also consumed as fried sausage with, a distilled liquor or chyaang/kodo ko jaanr, mild alcoholic finger millet based beverage. Kargyong is also eaten as cooked sausage before fermentation. Related/Varied forms of the food: Three varieties of kargyong are prepared and consumed: Yak kargyong (prepared from yak meat), Lang kargyong (prepared from beef) and Faak kargyong (prepared from pork). Yak kargyong is a popular fermented sausage in North Sikkim, Ladak and Tibet. Faak kargyong is also prepared by the non-vegetarian Nepalis/Gorkha of Sikkim and the Darjeeling hills of India and Nepal. They use pig as well
7 as goat intestine as natural casings to stuff the meat mixture (chopped pork/chevon) as described above. 10. Kheuri Usual composition/ingredients: Yak/beef meat. Method of preparation: It is prepared during winter or depending upon the availability of meat. Yak/beef meat, its intestine and fat are chopped into pieces, mixed with required amount of salt. The meat mixture is filled into an empty stomach of sheep, locally called previously cleaned and cleared sheep stomach ( khyabo ), stitched the opening and pressed with a heavy load for 5-10 hours. After pressing, it is kept for 1 to 2 months in an open air outside the kitchen for fermentation. Nowadays, the people of North Sikkim have stopped preparing kheuri because of unavailability of the sheep stomach due to ban on slaughtering high altitude sheep. Method of consumption: Kheuri dish is prepared by frying in yak or cow butter, locally called maa, mixed with chopped ginger, onion, garlic, powdered or ground chilies, salt and made into thick curry. It is also eaten by boiling it for min with salt. Kheuri dish is consumed with main meals by the Bhutia and the Lepcha as side-dish or curry with baked potatoes. 11. Satchu Usual composition/ingredients: Red meat of yak/beef. Importance of the food: Satchu can be kept at room temperature for several weeks. This is a natural type of preservation of perishable fresh raw meat in absence of refrigeration or cold storage. Method of preparation: Red meat of yak/beef is sliced into several strands of about cm and is mixed thoroughly with turmeric powder, edible oil or butter and salt. The meat strands
8 are hung in the bamboo stripes or wooden stick and are kept in an open air in corridor of the house or are smoked above the kitchen oven for days as per the convenience of the consumers. Method consumption: Satchu is made into curry by washing and soaking in water briefly, squeeze, and fry in yak/cow butter with chopped garlic, ginger, chili and salt. Thick gravy is made which is consumed with noodles in soup (thukpa) and boiled or baked potatoes by the Bhutia, Tibetan, Dhukpa, Lepcha and Sherpa. Deep fried satchu is popular side-dish of the ethnic people which is eaten with traditional alcoholic beverages in every house, or in special occasions. Satchu is also eaten as such. Yak satchu (prepared from yak meat) is usually prepared for home consumption. 12. Suka Ko Masu Place of origin/usage: Darjeeling hills and Sikkim. Time of consumption: Festival seasons. Usual composition/ingredients: Red meat of buffalo or goat. Method of preparation: It is prepared by cutting the red meat of buffalo or goat into a stripe up to cm and turmeric powder, mustard oil and salt are added and mixed thoroughly. Mixed meat stripes are hung above the earthen kitchen oven and smoked for 7-10 days. After complete drying, the smoked meat product is called suka ko masu or seakua, which can be stored at room temperature for several weeks. Method of consumption: Suka ko masu is washed and soaked in lukewarm water for 10 min, excess water is squeezed out and fried in heated mustard oil, with chopped onion, ginger, chili power and salt. Coriander leaves are sprinkled over the curry and is eaten with boiled rice. 13. Chilu Usual composition/ingredients: Yak/beef/lamb meat.
9 Method of preparation: Fatty portions of freshly slaughtered meat (yak/beef/lamb) are separated, kneaded by hand and pressed into the cleaned and empty stomach of sheep (previously slaughtered) and then stitched. This stuffed meat is pressed with heavy stones for about 5-10 hours, and are kept hanging in the corridor of the house in wooden plank for days. Method of consumption: Chilu is used in place of edible oil for cooking; it can be used for a year or more. 14. Chartayshya Time of consumption: Festival seasons. Usual composition/ingredients: Red goat meat. Method of preparation: Red goat meat is cut into small pieces of 3-4 cm, mixed with salt, sewed in a long thread and is hung in the bamboo stripes or wooden stick and is kept in an open air in corridor of the house for days. It can be kept at room temperature for several weeks for future consumption. Method of consumption: Curry is made by frying in edible oil with tomato, ginger, garlic, onion and salt. This is the most delicious meat item of the Kumaun Himalayas. The ethnic people of the Kumaun Himalayas prepare chartayshya curry especially during kolatch festival (worshiping the ancestral spirit) and offer to ancestors before eating. Related/Varied forms of the food: Sukha sikhar. 15. Geema Other names, if any: Jamma. Time of consumption: Festival seasons. Usual composition/ingredients: Red goat meat.
10 Method of preparation: Red goat meat is chopped into fine pieces; ground Eleusine coracana (finger millet), wild pepper locally called timbur (Zanthoxylum sp), chili powder and salt are added and mixed. A little amount of fresh animal blood is also added. Meat mixture is made semi-liquid by pouring water and stuffed into the small intestine of goat of about 2-3 cm in diameter and cm length with the help of funnel, and tied the both ends of the long intestine. It is pricked randomly to prevent bursting while boiling. After boiling for min, stuffed intestine are smoked above the kitchen oven for days. Method of consumption: It is consumed as curry by mixing with onion, garlic, ginger, tomato and salt. It is also deep fried and is eaten with local alcoholic beverages. Sometimes, gemma may be eaten as cooked sausage. The following products are used as traditional animal based foods of Himalaya, Sikkim, Darjeeling, Bhutan, Manipur and Assam. Other traditional animal based foods of Himalaya, Sikkim, Darjeeling, Bhutan, Manipur and Assam. S. No. Product Raw materials Area 1. Sukako Mutton/ pork Himalaya 2. Sha-kampo Beef/yak Sikkim 3. Gnuchi River fish Darjeeling, Sikkim 4. Sidra Fish Darjeeling, Sikkim, Bhutan 5. Sukuti Fish Darjeeling, Sikkim, Bhutan 6. Karoti Fish Assam 7. Bardia Fish Assam 8. Sukako machha River fish Darjeeling, Sikkim, Bhutan 9. Sukula Buffalo meat Sikkim 10. Singiamis Fish Manipur
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