VINTAGE PORT The King Style of Port

Transcription

1 Tutored Port Tasting Tuesday 10 th March 2015 V Wood- matured Bottle- matured VINTAGE PORT The King Style of Port Speaker: Amanda Lloyd Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman, Senior Business Manager

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4 Tutored Port Tasting Tuesday 10 th March 2015 Speaker: Amanda Lloyd Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman, Senior Business Manager TASTING LIST WOOD-MATURED PORT (ready to drink from the day it is released) Croft, NV Triple Crown, Ruby Port Fonseca, 2008 Unfiltered Late-Bottled Vintage Port (bottled in 2013) Taylor s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (bottled in 2014) BOTTLE-MATURED PORT (released despite requiring extended cellaring) Fonseca s Finest 1977 Vintage Port (bottled in 1979) Taylor s 1985 Vintage Port (bottled in 1987) Taylor s 2007 Vintage Port (bottled in 2009)

5 Tutored Port Tasting Speaker: Amanda Lloyd Tasting notes by Eric LAGRE and Magda KOTLARCZYK, WSET Diploma graduates (with the participation of WSET Diploma student Nora ESPINOSA CORONEL) NARRATIVE (Traditionally, one always tastes Vintage Port from the oldest down to youngest vintage year date. Here, Eric reshuffled the wines for the purpose of calrity) Croft, NV Triple Crown, Ruby Port Fonseca, 2008 Unfiltered Late-Bottled Vintage Port (bottled in 2013) Taylor s 2007 Vintage Port (bottled in 2009) These three wines are made in a reductive style, which means that the winemaker prevents contact with oxygen as much as possible. Since optimum purity of primary fruit character and integrity of ruby colour is thereby preserved, the style is better known as ruby style. From one wine to the next, better grape quality translates into increased extraction and concentration. Here, the plain Ruby Port, described as premium because it is made from selected wines, cannot be considered as anything other than an entry-level Port. Since it exhibits fairly low tannins and fruit intensity, it will only need 3 years in huge tronconic oak vats called balseiros to become ready to drink. In this instance, the wood-ageing process aims at stabilising the wine and fixing its colour rather than softening its structure. The wine is then released for immediate consumption, proving to have no keeping potential to speak of. The fresh berry aromas are uncomplicated, yet they are forward and attractive. Both The Ruby Port and the young Vintage Port look as fresh in the glass as one another. Classic Vintage Port spends half as much time maturing in wood as a plain Ruby Port but it is the biggest style of all. Since it is only produced from the finest quality grapes, grown in the best terroirs, picked following the greatest vintages (no more than three declarations per decade) then processed by using the most extractive winemaking technique, namely foot-treading, a Classic Vintage Port is heavy with tannins. These tannins are very fine and ripe, but at this early stage of development in the bottle, they muffle the power of the highly concentrated fruit beneath. Despite its great potential, the young Vintage Port smells rather closed-in, surprisingly simple and seemingly less flattering than the entry-level Ruby Port. The Late-bottled Vintage Port, on the other hand, is far more developed in every aspect. It is made from fine quality grapes also. Therefore, it comes out of the press with high tannin extraction and fruit concentration. In order to become ready to drink, LBV is left to mellow for 4 to 6 years in seasoned foudre. Despite being much smaller than a balseiro, that 275hl cask remains very large, yet it provides conditions that are oxidative-enough to see LBV show signs of development at bottling, as indicated by a ruby or garnet rim, not purple as in the other two wines. The nose of the LBV is more pronounced, jammier, spicier and far less spirity, more alcoholically integrated than the plain Ruby Port. By forcing its maturation through wood-ageing for half a decade, over which period some of its tannins precipitate, only to be left behind at bottling, LBV proves altogether much softer and far more approachable but nothing as long-lived as a Classic Vintage Port of a similar age. Taylor s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (bottled in 2014) Contrary to the ruby style, the tawny style is oxidatively made, which means that the winemaker exposes the wine to as much oxygen as possible in its making. Extreme oxidative conditions are achieved by combining annual racking (decanting of the wine) and extended ageing in 625 litre pipe (the smallest and most oxidative maturation cask used in the Port industry). The process forces the wine to develop prematurely, notably bleaching the colour to a medium hue of tawny hence the name of the style. As the wine is deliberately oxidised though this ageing process, Tawny Port develops a more dry-fruity character, curry-like spiciness and signature nuttiness. Crucially, it is stripped of most of its tannins hence it is bottled ready to dink, requiring no decanting but having lost all potential for improvement in the bottle. Taylor s 1985 Vintage Port (bottled in 1987) Fonseca s Finest 1977 Vintage Port (bottled in 1979) Every port wine is put to market when ready to drink but Vintage Port. Vintage Port is bottled after a mere two winters in wood then commercialised straight away. It is the consumer who inherits the responsibility of carefully cellaring the wine and waiting for it to mature. That bottle-maturation process is painfully slow and requires decades of patience. In contrast with the nose of the young Vintage Port, just about developing and smelling like a young Shiraz, the scent of these old Vintage Ports is more reminiscent of the bouquet of a mature Burgundy. Since it was produced in a hotter vintage year, the 1985 Taylor appears to have less vitality than the more developed 1977 Fonseca. But both wines still retain a sense of freshness and a potential for improvement in the bottle. Like Tawny Port, they exhibit a dried fruit character, but also molasses, maple syrup, fenugreek and other curry spice indicative of Sotolon, a compound that develops in extendedly matured wines. But that nuttiness so characteristic of the Tawny style will never take over. Whilst Age-dated Tawny Port loses the underlying freshness that is the trademark of a Vintage Port through deliberate oxidation and any sense of a vintage through blending, a means to achieve consistency of style and maintain aromatic vibrancy, Vintage Port takes the time to age fabulously. Vintage Port is an everevolving portrait of a vintage, yet the regal features of that vintage always remain recognisable. Vintage Port truly is the king of Ports.

6 Port: Style: Croft, Triple Crown Ruby Port Entry-level port for immediate consumption made from a selection of young wines. It is aged in seasoned oak vats for an average of 3 years in the cool, tranquil cellars of Oporto. It is bottled fully processed hence it does not require decanting. Vintage: NV Winemaker: David Guimaraens Producer: Croft (Est. 1588) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnershipp was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premium Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: T-top Cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão. Alcohol: 20%abv Residual Sugar: 103 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 3.70 g/l PH: 3.8 Wholesale price: 6.60 ex VAT Average retail price: 9.00 ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It is medium ruby in colour, yet the rim is rather purple. Tears and legs run along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. It exhibits a medium-minus(ish) intensity of youthful aromas. The nose is very heady and spirit. It is indeed overwhelmed with ethanol and a scent of cut hay and white pepper. The cassis, raspberry, strawberry and cherry fruit underneath is quite fresh nonetheless. There might be a touch of spiciness, but one would not want to convey a sense of complexity that is not there. This medium-bodied wine is sweet. It is fortified to a high level of alcohol. The mediumm acidity does not manage to offset that high alcohol hence the palate feels quite fiery. The tannins are only medium-minus, of medium-minus(ish) intensity mirror the aromas described on the to the point that one could forget to notice them. The fruit flavours nose. The spice is more defined on the palate, with notes of dry liquorice in the finish of medium-minus length. The wine is good. It is an uncomplicated style of Port to say the least. The fortifying spirit overwhelms an aromatic profile lacking in intensity hence one is left with an overall sense of unbalance. Providing that it is served slightly chilled to offset the alcohol, this wine will provide easy-drinking on its own. It might be best to serve it as a long drink or a cocktail. It can also be served in accompaniment to a cheese board, though it is not really a food drink. The UK market is the leading premium market in the world. Considering that for less than twice as much, one can afford a very sensibly priced LBV, altogether more intense, structured, integrated and balanced, one can easily understand why the British are always willing to upgrade.

7 Port: Style: Fonseca, Unfiltered LBV Late-bottled Vintage Port This premium port is made from wines drawn from a reserve of some of the best ports produced at the 2008 harvest. The grapes are grown on Fonseca s own vineyards and on other top properties in the Cima Corgo and the Douro Superior areas of the Douro Valley. The wine is aged in seasoned foudre of 50 pipes (275hl) capacity for 5 years. The wine is bottled unfiltered hence it can benefit from being decanted. But since it is put to market ready to drink, decanting is not a necessity. Vintage: 2008 (bottled in 2013) Winemaker: David Guimaraens Producer: Fonseca (Est. 1815) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnership was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premium Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: T-top Cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão Alcohol: 20%abv Residual Sugar: 97 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 4.34 g/l PH: 3.8 Wholesale price: 9.47 ex VAT Average retail price: ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It is deep ruby in colour. Compared to the purple rim of the plain Ruby and the young Taylor s 2007 Vintage Port, the rim of this wine shows signs of development. Tears and legs run along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. It exhibits a medium-plus intensity of developing aromas. The fruit is rich, with stewed plum, blackcurrant preserve and overripe black cherry, yet notes of artichoke, cassis leaf and eucalyptus contribute freshness. Clove, liquorice and dark, bitter chocolate add to that sense of richness. Notes of black pepper accentuate the spirity edge of the rather heady nose. This medium-bodied wine is sweet. Contrary to what the nose of the wine leads you to expect, the palate turns out to be surprisingly fresh and well-balanced. It is fortified to a high level of alcohol, but medium-plus acidity perfectly offsets the high alcohol. Notes of mint and eucalyptus add to the overall sense of freshness. The medium tannins, fine and ripe, contribute roundness. The spiced black cherry and forest berry fruit of medium-plus intensity matches the description on the nose. The overall effect, which lasts in a finish of medium-plus length, is quite reminiscent of Mon Cheri cherry liqueur chocolate. This wine is very good. As much as its heady character on the nose lets it down ever so slightly, the freshness of fruit, roundness of texture and overall balance redeems the wine on the palate. This wine is the perfect finish to a meal, served with strong cheeses, especially blue cheeses such as Stilton and Roquefort. It is also delicious with desserts made with chocolate or berry fruits.

8 Port: Taylor s 2007 Style: Vintage Port Such top-quality port is only made in the very finest or declare vintage years from grapes grown exclusively in Taylor s own estates, namely Quinta de Vargellas, Quinta de Terra Feita (QTF) and Quinta do Junco. Quinta de Vargellas, the flagship Quinta, belongs to Taylor s & Fladgate since QTF de Baixo was bought in the 1970s. QTF de Cima will only be added to the estate in Quinta do Junco was eventually purchased in In 2007, a cool and humid growing season followed by a warm and dry maturing season resulted in very elegant wines, full of vibrancy and freshness. The wine was kept in wood for only two winters then bottled totally unprocessed and immediately put to market. Extended bottle-maturation is required for the wine to become ready to drink. Decanting is an absolute necessity before serving this outstanding Vintage. Vintage: 2007 (bottled in 2009) Winemaker: David Guimaraens Producer: Taylor s (Est. 1692) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnershipp was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premium Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: Natural cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão Alcohol: 20%abv Residual Sugar: 103 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 4.46 g/l PH: 3.8 Price on release: ex VAT Wholesale price: ex VAT Average retail price: ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It is deep ruby in colour, yet the rim is rather purple. Tears and legs run along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. The developing aromas are medium-plus in intensity, though one could argue that they are more elegantly fine than pronounced. The black cherry, blackberry compote and blackcurrant fruit is ripe, yet vegetal notes of cassis leaf and hints of violet and rose petal add freshness. The dryness of black tea is softened by notes of wet earth and mossy wood and freshened up by basil, sage and other garden herbs. This medium-plus-bodied wine is sweet. It is fortified to a high level of alcohol, but highh acidity perfectly offsets the high alcohol. The lean, sinewy and tightly knit structure is softened by the fine and ripe quality of the medium-plus tannins. The herb- and flower-infused fruit of medium-plus intensity is as described on the nose. Notes of black tea and chilli-flavoured dark chocolate teasee the palate in a finish of long length. This wine is outstanding. The nose is frustratingly muffled by the dense tannic structure, yet the power and freshness of fruit character shines through. Not a hint of ethanol in sight. The nose perfectly mirrors the palate. The overall sense of harmony and elegant complexity is spellbinding. The wine is strangely approachable already. This wine will match blue, buttery, mellow and slightly piquant cheeses such as Cashel Blue, Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Saint-Agur.

9 Port: Style: Taylor s 20 Year Old Tawny Age-dated Tawny Port This is a blend of wines grown in the eastern part of the Douro valley, where the finest grapes are produced. The wines are aged in seasoned pipes, 625 litre casks, for an average of 20 years, over which period they are racked annually. These extreme oxidative conditions turn the deep ruby colour of a young wine medium tawny over time. The fruit aromas and flavours also develop from primary to dry-fruity, spicy and characteristically nutty. Following years of maturation in the cool and damp Taylor s lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, the wine is bottled ready to drink and it does not require decanting. Indication of Age: 20 year old (bottled in 2014) Winemaker: David Guimaraens Producer: Taylor s (Est. 1692) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnershipp was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premiumm Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: T-top cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão Alcohol: 20%abv Residual Sugar: 112 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 4.53 g/l PH: 3.6 Wholesale price: ex VAT Average retail price: ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. It exhibits a medium-plus intensity of fully-developed and deliberately oxidised aromas. The intensity of dried fruit is on par with the nuttiness. Sultana, fig, date, dried apricot and orange peel fruit integrates well with the roast almond, hazelnut and walnut character of this wine indeed. Brown sugar and molasses combine with red apple in a toffee-apple effect. Thanks to an abundance of sweet spices like cinnamon, liquorice and vanilla, the nose is quite reminiscent of Christmas pudding. This medium-bodied wine is sweet. It is fortified to a high level of alcohol. The medium-plus acidity nearly manages to offset that high alcohol, but not quite. The palate is therefore somewhat fiery, but not in an unattractive way. One can sense medium tannins, which have the quality of old wood tannins rather than thatt of the tannins in the grapes themselves. The flavours on the palate very much mirror the aromas on the nose. One must add a hint of red currant, notes of fenugreek and a burnt caramel quality to the sweetness. The complex mix teases the palate in a finish of medium-plus length. is medium tawny in colour, with red copper highlights. Tears and legs run This wine is very good. It is ever so complex and integrated, yet slightly hot in alcohol. One is left wishing for more acidity to lift the aromatic profile. Serving the wine gently chilled, especially in the summer, might help restore a sense of balance. Tawny port pairs welll with figs, almonds and caramel. It is great with Crème Brûlée or a plate of wild strawberries. It works well as an after-dinner drink in accompaniment to walnuts and dried fruits.

10 Port: Taylor s 1985 Style: Vintage Port Such top-quality port is only made in the very finest or declared vintage years from grapes grown exclusively in Taylor s own estates at the time, namely Quinta de Vargellas, the flagship Quinta bought in 1893, and Quinta de Terra Feita de Baixo, purchased in the 1970s. In 1985, early budding and flowering was followed by a hot summer, all the way to harvest in late September. The resulting wines are rich and complex. The wine was kept in wood for only two winters then bottled totally unprocessed and put to market. Extended bottle-maturation is required for the wine to become ready to drink. A crust will form hence decanting is an absolute necessity prior to serving this wine. the vintage was only excellent. Vintage: 1985 (bottled in 1987) Winemaker: Bruce Guimaraens Producer: Taylor s (Est. 1692) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnershipp was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premiumm Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: Natural cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão Alcohol: 20.5%abv Residual Sugar: 97 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 3.68 g/l PH: 3.8 Price on release: ex VAT Wholesale price: ex VAT Average retail price: ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It is medium garnet in colour. Tears and legs run along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. It exhibits a medium-plus intensity of developing aromas. The dried red berry, fig and sultana fruit is overwhelmed by sweet cinnamonn and curry spice. Celeriac root vegetable, salted caramel and balsamic notes contribute an earthy, savoury and rather meaty edge to the nose. White pepper and mint struggle to restore a degree of freshness. This medium-plus-bodied wine is sweet. The medium tannins are very fine and ripe. The wine is fortified to a high level of alcohol, but the medium-plus acidity does not manage to totally offset the highh alcohol. That hot sensation on the palate only accentuates the richness and lack of freshness of the flavour profile. The medium intensity of backed apple, jammy red berry and dried fig and sultana fruit fades into notes of burnt caramel, coffee bean and sweet spices in a finish of medium-plus length. This wine is very good. The alcoholic unbalance and overall lack of freshness is a bit of a letdown, especially when it comes to a Port House renowned for consistently producing wines of the highest quality. This is just a reflection of the quality of the vintage, which is nothing as fresh as 1977 or 2007 to start with. On the night, the wine was more flattering hence there might be an issue with bottle variation also. This is a fine and complex wine regardless. Match it with blue, buttery, mellow and slightly piquant cheeses such as Cashel Blue, Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Saint-Agur.

11 Port: Fonseca s Finest 1977 Style: Vintage Port Such top-quality port is only made in the very finest or declared vintage years from grapes grown exclusively in Fonseca s own estate at the time, namely Quinta do Cruzeiro, bought in Quinta do Panascal, bought in 1978, will gradually become Fonseca s new flagship Quinta. Organic farming will be pioneered at Quinta de Santo António after purchase in In 1977, cold delayed budding and frost reduced yields at flowering. Maturation was slowed down by a cool summer. Full ripeness was eventually achieved following a scorching-hot month of September. The weather turned cold again in October, resulting in long fermentations with plenty of extraction. The outstanding 1977 vintage was universally declared. Vintage: 1977 (bottled in 1979) Winemaker: Bruce Guimaraens Producer: Fonseca (Est. 1822, recently revised to 1815) TFP was founded in 1962 as Dick Yeatman of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman gave partnerships to Bruce Guimaraens of Fonseca. The partnership was actually known as Taylor Fonseca SA until TFP is only the 4 th largest Port producer but it is a leading premium Port producer in the special category (Age-dated Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Port). Closure: Natural cork Blend: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão Alcohol: 21%abv Residual Sugar: 100 g/l Total Tartaric Acidity: 3.90 g/l PH: 3.7 Price on release: 5.42 ex VAT Wholesale price: no longer available Average retail price: ex VAT as per This red wine looks clear and bright. It is medium garnet in colour, with intensely bright red highlights. Tears and legs run along the side of the glass. The wine smells clean. The developing aromas are pronounced in intensity, though one could argue that they are more elegantly fine than pronounced. The scent is so well-integrated that it is hard to exactly pinpoint specific aromas. The nose is quite dried fruity, with overtones of fig and sultana, yet there is still an underlying freshness of fruit. Notes of strawberry, cherry and plum are quite preserve-like nonetheless. Toffee and sweet spice add to the overall sense of richness, yet dry notes of black pepper, coffee bean and even of roasted nuts, tend to offset the sweetness. Notes of fresh herbs, green walnut and cardamom contribute an underlying bitter freshness that lifts the aromatic profile altogether. This medium-plus-bodied wine is sweet, though dark, bitter chocolate, dry coffee bean, walnut, cardamom and bitter herbs seem to contribute a balancing savoury edge to the wine. It is fortified to a high level of alcohol. Medium-plus acidity does not seem to totally offset the high alcohol. The complexity of the flavour profile, which is paradoxically contrasting and integrated at the same time, more than redeems that slight issue of alcoholic unbalance. Now that the tannins have precipitated, they are only medium and ever so fine and ripe. The fruit character of medium-plus intensity is as described on the nose. The finish is long and lingering. This wine is outstanding. It is a masterpiece of integration, yet it is also a complex display of contrasts between dried and fresher fruit, sweet and dryer spice, warm, roaster nuts and fresher, bitter herbs and spice. One will forgive the slightly spirity character of the wine on the palate. This wine is the perfect finish to a meal, served with strong cheeses, especially blue cheeses such as Stilton and Roquefort. It is also delicious with desserts made with chocolate or summer berry fruits.