As ever, we will be visiting the auctions in September, where the finest cuvées will be released. Please let us know if you are interested.

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1 2015 German Wines 1

2 Remember last summer? June was nice, but the rest was a bit of a washout: lots of rain and pretty cool. Things were different in Europe: in Germany the summer came with record temperatures and some drought; rain arrived only in September, followed by a beautiful cool Indian summer lasting through to November. The result is wines with an extraordinary combination of a very ripe tropical-fruit character from the heat, together with orchard fruit, fresh green flavours and zingy acidity from the brisk autumn. They have great purity, density, and the potential to develop into legendary wines. After a mild winter, budbreak occurred in mid-april, slightly ahead of average. May and June saw considerable temperature fluctuations, but mostly dry weather, followed by a very dry July and August. Temperatures spiked at over 40 C (or 104ºF for Brexiteers), and memories of 2003 resurfaced. Then the weather broke in September: it turned cooler and began to rain, sometimes very heavily, until the weather cleared again at the end of the month. It stayed cool, sunny and dry until well into November. Several key factors influenced the character of the vintage. The dry start to the year slowed vegetative growth, meaning the vines could stand up to the heat more effectively as they needed less water. Had it rained too soon, there would have been explosive growth, the grapes would have swelled up and the growers would have been faced with unpleasant rot problems. As it was, rain came just at the right moment, giving the vines much-needed relief, but too late to see much more leaf growth. The cooler period that followed, especially from mid-october, restored freshness to the vines, fixed the acidity, and allowed the flavours to develop complexity. It was here that the grapes garnered their cool fruit, green notes and clear mineral flavours, a fascinating complement to the ripe, creamy tropical character they had picked up from the hot summer. The heat and dryness had also thickened the skins, so the grapes remained small, and there was a high skin-to-juice ratio. The fine autumn concentrated the juice still further, making the wines very dense, so much so that during filtering the pads kept getting blocked due to the high extract. There was little or no botrytis (and that mainly in the Mosel area), and ripeness came through a long slow process of dehydration. It is highly unusual to taste wines at the upper end of the scale, even up to Trockenbeereauslese, that show no evidence of botrytis. And the acidity, while high, is very ripe, comprised more of gentler tartaric than aggressive malic elements. The Indian summer also allowed a leisurely harvest, meaning that each parcel could be picked at optimum ripeness. The result is wines made from perfectly ripe golden-yellow grapes, flecked with black, of the kind not seen by some growers since 1971 and The wines are beautifully pure, balanced and vibrant, with a very complex fruit character, fine minerality and extraordinary concentration. Above all, they are a joy to drink. Worth a punt. 2

3 We will offer a large selection of Grosse Gewächse and other top dry wines in September, when they are officially released. There will also be a broad range of reds. The wines of Joh.Jos. Prüm will be offered later this summer. As ever, we will be visiting the auctions in September, where the finest cuvées will be released. Please let us know if you are interested. PRICES ARE IN BOND LONDON. UNLESS OTHERWISE MARKED, WINES ARE PACKED: 6-BOTTLE CASES (750ml) 12-BOTTLE CASES (375ml) 3-BOTTLE CASES (1500ml) UNLESS OTHERWISE MARKED, WINES ARE OFFERED BY THE CASE ONLY, BUT MANY SINGLE BOTTLES ARE AVAILABLE 3

4 CONTENTS Hermann Dönnhoff Oberhausen (Nahe) 5-6 Fritz Haag Brauneberg (Mosel) 7-8 Julian Haart Piesport (Mosel) 9-10 Reinhold Haart Piesport (Mosel) von Hövel Konz (Saar) 13 Keller Flörsheim-Dalsheim (Rheinhessen) Peter-Jakob Kühn Oestrich (Rheingau) Peter Lauer Ayl (Saar)18-19 Schloss Lieser Lieser (Mosel) Georg Mosbacher Forst (Pfalz) 23 Egon Müller Wiltingen (Saar) 24 Willi Schaefer Graach (Mosel) Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenau (Nahe) von Schubert Mertesdorf (Ruwer) Philipp Veser Mühlheim (Mosel) 31 Daniel Vollenweider Traben-Trarbach (Mosel) Robert Weil Kiedrich (Rheingau) 34 Weiser-Künstler Traben-Trarbach (Mosel) Zilliken Saarburg (Saar) Terms of Business 38 Explanatory notes We identify wines by the last four digits of the AP number, unique to the wine, for example [11 16] This is useful to avoid confusion when telling them apart. Auctions: in the last weekend of September, the VDP s finest and rarest wines are auctioned in the Mosel, Rheingau and Nahe (which includes Ahr, Pfalz and Rheinhessen). Mostly the wines are of the current vintage, but old rarities are also on offer. Prices here are sometimes very high, but there are often bargains. 4

5 THE WINES Hermann Dönnhoff Oberhausen (Nahe) Although Helmut Dönnhoff has handed control of the estate to his son Cornelius, he is still very much involved. In forty-four years at the helm, he has grown the estate from 3ha to a respectable 28ha, judiciously swapping and acquiring, until his vineyard portfolio is the best in the Nahe, and one of the greatest in Germany. This year he received us with an air of quiet satisfaction. It is a great vintage for him although it presented some challenges: the Nahe is one of the driest regions in Germany, and in a very drought-affected year was particularly at risk. Fortunately, the old vines with deep roots coped well, and he reported never seeing such high must weights without the concentrating effects of botrytis over 100 Oechsle for healthy grapes. The botrytis itself was unusual, a paradoxically healthy botrytis, where the grapes were only lightly affected by rot and then dried out. The wines are excitingly vigorous and rich, with purity and elegance in spades. Two Grosse Gewächse will be released in September; the Brücke GG will go to the auction in September. Helmut Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett [02 16] 2015 Facing south-east, Leistenberg is a naturally cooler vineyard benefiting from the morning sun. This year there is considerable weight: a clear smooth rich wine with a slate finish. Drink Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese [17 16] 2015 Ripe pure golden berry fruit with a juicy fresh greenness coming through in the middle, ending on a long, salty mineral note. Like its big brother the Hermannshöhle, a classic expression of the vineyard s terroir. Drink Magnums 138 5

6 Hermann Dönnhoff (contd.) Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese [18 16] 2015 Powerful, smooth and elegant, this is packed with dense yellow peach fruit, overlaid with the fresh nettle notes typical of the vintage. There is richness and vibrancy, and a fine mineral heat on the finish. Really spectacular. Drink Magnums each Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese Goldkapsel [19 16] 2015 There is 30% botrytis here, but the wine remains pure. Peach and greengage fruit are joined by fresh apricot, all in a silky smooth honeyed package that finishes on a rich mineral note. Drink Halves (6- Magnums each Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese Goldkapsel [20 16] 2013 With a light touch of botrytis, this is typically intense and rich, showing powerful and smooth yellow fruit joined by a delightful fresh mint tone and a wealth of ripe citrus fruit. The finish is vibrant and endless. Drink Halves ( Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Beerenauslese Goldkapsel 2015 Not tasted. Halves (3-480 Oberhäuser Brücke Eiswein Goldkapsel 2015 Not tasted. Halves (

7 Fritz Haag Brauneberg (Mosel) This is an absolutely outstanding vintage. If in ten years it holds its promise, we can talk about a vintage of the century, said Oliver Haag at the outset of a truly impressive tasting. The wines were brilliant, balanced and positively sang. As for so many, the growing season was a nailbiter. The Brauneberg is one of the Mosel s best sites, but it can suffer from drought, and the warm rainless weather caused much anxiety. But in the end there were no yellow leaves, and rain came in time to refresh the vines. Picking could be done at leisure during the long Indian summer, and there was even a small amount of late botrytis. Oliver Haag was amazed by the high extracts: the wines were so dense that when it came to filtering them (a necessity with residual-sugar wines, to minimise the danger of secondary fermentation in the bottle) there was so much matter that the filter pads kept getting blocked. An Auction Spätlese, Auslese LGK and Juffer- Sonnenuhr TBA were also made. Two Grosse Gewächse will be released in September. Oliver Haag Brauneberger Riesling trocken J [19 16] 2015 Ripe and smooth peach fruit is balanced by juicy citrus acidity, and there is long, rounded, fine finish. Drink Brauneberger Kabinett [03 16] 2015 Very lovely. Cooler orchard fruit apples and pears are prevalent here, but there is also peach. It is fresh, vibrant and smooth, with a light, slightly creamy finish. A most elegant Kabinett. Drink

8 Fritz Haag (contd.) Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [07 16] 2015 Very ripe, the flavours tend now towards southern climes: peach, greengage and even some tropical notes. They are counterpointed by a lovely piquant lemon acidity and rich creamy mineral tones, all poised effortlessly to make a long and fine Spätlese. Drink Magnums each Double Magnums each Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese [06 16] 2015 Smooth golden yellow fruit, elegant, creamy and rounded, with precisely delineated mineral notes and vibrant juiciness. There is a great deal of acidity, but the density and ripeness cushion its impact so that the wine is balanced and juicy. The finish is long, and very fine. Really good. Drink Halves 111 Magnums 43 each Dbl Magnums 96 each Brauneberger Juffer Auslese Goldkapsel [22 16] 2015 A smooth, fine botrytis kicks in here. It is pure and golden, with shades of fresh apricot, but always delicate despite its richness. There is a long, honey-tinged sweet finish. Drink Halves 150 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel [09 16] 2015 Opulent, vibrant and dense, this shows great concentration without sacrificing precision. A positive market-garden of fruit is present: ripe stone, cool apple, but also tropical fruit, lifted by ripe citrus flavours that lend energy and definition, culminating in a long, juicy finish. Drink Halves (12- Magnums each Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese [16 16] 2015 This is amazingly dense and vibrant, a super-concentrated Auslese with some dried fruit dates and raisins added to the vibrant fresh apricots and peaches. Drink Halves (6- POA Brauneberger Juffer Trockenbeerenauslese [21 16] 2015 Still fermenting during our visit, and not tasted. Halves (3- POA 8

9 Julian Haart Piesport (Mosel) From tiny beginnings, farming 0.25 hectares in 2011, Julian Haart now harvests four hectares in Piesport and Wintrich. As well as holdings in the prime vineyards of Goldtröpchen and Ohligsberg, he also owns nearly a hectare in the Schubertslay, a tiny steep and rocky vineyard next to the Goldtröpchen that boasts ungrafted vines over a hundred years old. There was no stress for him in The deep soils of Piesport and Wintrich were ample reservoirs for his old vines, and they did not suffer from drought. His grapes, however, were small and thick-skinned, which can provide a challenge during pressing: too much pressure can release hard, bitter flavours. By macerating the grapes for a short period it softened the skins, allowing a more gentle extraction. The result is a range of fine, delicate wines with great concentration. Two top dry wines will be released in September. Julian Haart Piesporter Riesling [12 16] 2015 From young vines in Goldtröpchen. Powerful and rich, this is an expressive wine with rounded pear fruit, a healthy dose of citrus in the form of grapefruit pith and lemon, and a vibrant, fine ripe finish. Drink Wintricher Riesling [13 16] 2015 Prolonged skin contact before fermentation gives a powerful rich wine, possessing both energy and elegance. There is plenty of pithy citrus fruit and a distinct smoky quality, along with welldefined cool orchard fruit. Drink Piesporter Goldtröpchen Kabinett [05 16] 2015 Delightful, playful and light, this shows cool fresh, green gooseberry fruit with a hint of mineral, and a long taut finish. Drink Piesporter Schubertslay Kabinett [06 16] 2015 Fizzing with energy, this manages a breath-taking lightness and purity. There is typical peach fruit but also a delicious green note running through to the fine, mineral-driven finish. Drink

10 Julian Hart (contd.) Piesporter Goldtröpchen Spätlese[07 16] 2015 Lively, concentrated and juicy, the sweet honeyed peach fruit is offset by lively green and mineral flavours, leading to a strong rich finish. Drink Wintricher Ohligsberg Spätlese [09 16] 2015 Packed with dense, cool orchard fruit of pear, apple and quince, this has a lovely delicate acidity and a very long smooth finish. Drink Piesporter Schubertslay Spätlese [08 16] 2015 Vines in the Schubertslay are planted around boulders, making the microclimate warmer, but the acidity levels in 2015 make it taste noticeably less sweet than its brothers. It has a creamy richness, but the focus is on a delicate finesse, a lovely streak of green fruit and an elegant, fluid quality that invites just one more sip. Drink Piesporter Schubertslay Auslese [10 16] 2015 There is a small amount of botrytis here, but the wine is pure and lean, showing an elegant, cool minerality, golden yellow fruit and delicate citrus flavours. There is intensity, balance and a delicious vibrant mineral finish. Drink Wintricher Ohligsberg Auslese** [11 16] % botrytis here, but made from an early one, at the beginning of October. The result is a crisp, very clear wine of finesse and elegance. There is zingy quince and nettle fruit, juicy lemony acidity and a hint of the tropical typical of the vineyard. Long and very delicious. Drink

11 Reinhold Haart Piesport (Mosel) The best vintage we have ever tasted here. Johannes Haart reported that the deep soils of Piesport and Wintrich spared him any fear of drought; on the contrary, when heavy rain fell in late August he was concerned about the possibility of rot, remembering As it was, the weather turned cool, which preserved the acidity in the grapes, while the warm summer had raised must weights. The grapes ripened to perfection, and a late botrytis furnished four botrytised wines, amongst them a very small quantity of TBA. A Goldtröpchen Auslese GK and TBA will go to the auction. Two Grosse Gewächse will be released in September. Johannes Haart Piesporter Goldtröpchen Kabinett [10 16] 2015 A perfumed, floral nose leads to rich ripe elegant flavours; the wine has some weight and is delicious and fresh. Drink Piesporter Goldtröpchen Spätlese [13 16] 2015 Very aromatic on the nose, there is a powerful stony mineral presence to complement the zingy floral fruit. It is rich, vibrant and long, with a dash of cool green flavours and a fresh, slightly creamy finish. Drink Piesporter Goldtröpchen Auslese [16 16] 2015 Made largely from healthy shrivelled golden berries with around 15% botrytis. This gives fine ripe yellow stone fruit and a smooth creaminess, but there is a big lash of acidity there, keeping the wine pointed and defined, leading to a long gentle juicy finish. A very, very elegant wine. Drink Halves

12 Reinhold Hart (contd.) Wintricher Ohligsberg Auslese [14 16] 2013 Like its brother, made from shrivelled golden berries, with less botrytis. It seems lighter, too, although it has a similarly appealing creamy quality alongside the pure yellow fruit. Here too there is a delicious hint of green. The whole is seamless, smooth and very fine indeed. Drink Piesporter Goldtröpchen Beerenauslese [19 16] 2015 Delicate fruit that packs a significant punch of fresh apricot, some raisin and date flavours, and a big kick of salty iodine. There is superb intensity and definition, and a beautifully clear clean finish that seems to go on forever. 150 litres made. Drink bottle case 165 Halves (6-174 Wintricher Ohligsberg Beerenauslese [18 16] 2013 Sweet and rich, with honeyed apricot and dried fruit flavours, and a big kick of lemony acidity keeping it pure, ripe and long. 90 litres made. Drink bottle case 165 Halves (

13 Von Hövel Konz (Saar) Max von Kunow is very pleased with his vintage. Although it was a dry year, he told us that rain came just at the right moment, allowing the vines to soak up salty mineral flavours and pump them into the grapes. Harvest was spread over a leisurely four and a half weeks, allowing plenty of time for selection. The wines are powerful, brilliant and very ripe. For him it is a cross between 1971 and 1975 both very pure (and amongst the greatest) vintages. Eberhard and Max von Kunow Scharzhofberg Kabinett [05 16] 2015 Ripe, intense and forward, showing typical smoky notes and very fine fruit. There is some delicacy too, and a long intense finish. Drink Scharzhofberg Spätlese [06 16] 2015 An intensely mineral wine, so much so that it tasted drier than the Kabinett, though this may change as it opens up. Some ripe fruit and ripe acidity balance the long salty finish. Drink Scharzhofberg Auslese [08 16] 2015 Made from very ripe shrivelled grapes with a dash of botrytis. Elegant rounded golden yellow fruit is balanced by smoky mineral and yeasty flavours, and it is very vibrant, with purity and lots of power. Drink Scharzhofberg Auslese*** [09 16] % botrytis, and what a difference to the regular Auslese! There is a smoothness and supreme elegance to the ripe yellow fruit, a beautiful mineral richness, and a long fine finish. Drink

14 Keller Flörsheim-Dalsheim (Rheinhessen) Klaus-Peter Keller has not exactly had a bad run of vintages since he took over early this century, but this year is by far the best he has made; in the words of his father, like 1971 with a dash more acidity. It was a bit of a nail-biter nonetheless. The hot summer and below average rainfall made the vines shut down, and they lost the head start they had gained from early flowering. Klaus-Peter focussed on keeping the leaves shading the grapes to prevent as much heat damage as possible. The berries remained small and thick-skinned, until welcome rain in September refreshed the vines, and allowed the grapes to swell. Many got hairline cracks, which under normal circumstances would leave them open to the onset of botrytis, but the cooler weather that followed hindered this development, and there was no botrytis to speak of. Instead, the sun and wind shrivelled them, concentrating the aromas and flavours, whilst retaining their freshness. The result is magic. Two Kabinetts from the Hipping were made, one for private consumption, and one for the auction. There was only one Spätlese, from Absterde. The Grosse Gewächse and the famous Kellerkiste, this year a 12-pack, containing a selection of the finest dry and sweet wines, will be released in September. Julia and Klaus-Peter Keller Riesling von der Fels DRY [20 16] 2015 The von der Fels comes from vines that are no longer young, and it is gaining in complexity over the years as a result. Grapes from Absterde, Morstein, Kirchspiel and Hubacker have produced a powerful fresh wine with cool fruit, ripe acidity and a tempered minerality. Drink Kabinett Limestone [10 16] 2015 Made from the same grapes that go into the von der Fels from Absterde, Kirchspiel and Hubacker, and including some from 50- year old Morstein vines. It is beautifully balanced, creamy and vibrant, with pure pithy yellow fruit and delightful lightness of touch. Drink Westhofen Kirchspiel Auslese 2015 Pure passion fruit notes mixed with cool green flavours and a lovely honeyed quality make this very exciting, and there is a long, warm finish. Drink bottle case 63 14

15 Keller (contd.) Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen Abst E. Auslese [24 16] 2015 No trace of botrytis, just sheer purity: there are intense yellow peach and green notes, with a hint of honey and refreshing citrus. There is superb balance, great elegance, and fantastic length. Very special. Drink bottle case 138 Westhofen Morstein Auslese [15 16] 2015 Rich creamy ripe peach fruit is balanced by vibrant citrus acidity. There is also a delicate floral note. The minerality is a whisper at first, but builds in volume to dominate the long, sweet-sour finish. Drink Halves (6-111 Dalsheim Hubacker Auslese*** [28 16] 2015 A beautifully expressive, ripe nose of yellow fruit greengages and peach opens the batting, complemented by an almost musky floral note. There is a very ripe, zingy and fine acid structure, and a mouth-coating salty earthy minerality on the long rounded finish. Drink bottle case 213 Halves (6-219 Nierstein Pettenthal Beerenauslese [29 16] 2015 Very rich and dense, showing ripe peach and pineapple fruit, bright citrus acidity and astonishing smoothness, and despite its great concentration, extraordinary lightness. Drink Halves (3-300 Dalsheim Hubacker Trockenbeerenauslese 2015 Not tasted. Halves (3- POA Westhofen Morstein Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel 2015 Not tasted. Halves (3- POA Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen Abst E. Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel 2015 Very floral and peachy on the nose, this shows amazing complexity on the palate, each element the hint of green, smoky notes, ripe tropical fruit, blossom, pithy mineral flavours clearly defined by the bright citrus acidity. If you are selfless, the greatgrandchildren will be able to enjoy this. Drink Halves (3- POA Nierstein Hipping Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel 2015 Not tasted Halves (3- POA 15

16 Peter-Jakob Kühn Oestrich (Rheingau) Peter-Jakob Kühn started in 1979, the eleventh generation of his family to assume responsibility. This is one of the few estates in Germany to use biodynamic methods, and he and his family do it with aweinspiring passion and thoroughness. The conversion was gradual, and started at home: unhealthy food was banned no white sugar, white flour or processed foods of any kind. They began to believe that the chemical industry was encouraging an unhealthy dependence in farmers on its products, sidelining nature in the process. So they abandoned herbicides and insecticides, anti-fungal sprays, and cultured yeasts; in 2001 they took the plunge and became biodynamic. They are now one of Germany s leading growers. The estate comprises 20 hectares, with prime sites in and around Oestrich. 90% is given over to Riesling production. Some of the rarer dry wines will be released later this year. Peter-Jacob and Peter Bernhard Kühn Jacobus [01 16] 2015 Sourced from vineyards with silty clay (loess) soils around Oestrich. It offers a rich floral nose with acacia honey and a hint of green, and is rounded bright and expressive all the way to the finish. Drink Quarzit [03 16] 2015 From vineyards with silty clay (loess) soils and a high quartz content. The fruit is yellow and aromatic, and there is a pronounced citrus flavour leading to a long smooth dry finish. Drink Oestrich Lenchen Kabinett [10 16] 2015 A rich, earthy nose leads to bright, zingy citrus and honey-tinged fruit in the mouth, and a delicious balancing minerality. There is good depth and length, too. Drink

17 Peter Jakob Kühn (contd.) Oestricher Lenchen Spätlese [11 16] 2015 A dash of botrytis (10%) adds a rich yellow fruit note to the floral honeyed flavours, along with some apple, vibrant sweet citrus and a rich spicy herbal accent on the long finish. Drink Oestricher Lenchen Auslese [12 16] 2015 A healthy lash of botrytis (50%) gives richness and power, but it is so fine and light that the wine remains perfectly poised. There is creamy fresh apricot and peach fruit, bright ripe rounded acidity, and a long focussed finish. Drink Halves (6-117 Oestricher Lenchen Auslese GK [15 16] 2015 Not tasted. Halves (6-162 Oestricher Lenchen Beerenauslese [13 16] 2015 A rich, sweet wine: the weight of sugar presses in on all sides, but is effortlessly held at bay by the bright acidity which, combined with the mineral flavours, lends an aura of weightlessness to the honeyed yellow fruit. The finish is long and satisfying. Drink Halves (6-276 Oestricher Lenchen Trockenbeerenauslese [14 16] 2015 A staggering amount of residual sugar 278g per litre, or 57 teaspoons but the wine is smooth, juicy and a delight, thanks to the extraordinarily high acidity of nearly 12g per litre. This is enveloped by concentrated, honeyed yellow fruit and a delightful creaminess. Ripe vibrant citrus flavours lead to a very long rich finish. Drink Halves (

18 Peter Lauer Ayl (Saar) In the blink of an eye Florian Lauer has elevated this estate from relative obscurity when he took over to one of the foremost in Germany. He viewed 2015 as an easier vintage than 2013 and 2014, but not necessarily better if you got things right in those two years, brilliant wines ensued. But there is more of almost everything in 2015 yield, ripeness, extract and acidity, although for him the alcohol is lower. The wines are absolutely brilliant. Grosse Gewächse will be released in September. There are auction versions of Kabinett, Spätlese and an Auslese LGK which will be offered in September. A separate Kupp BA and Saarfeils TBA will be auctioned next year. Florian Lauer Saar Riesling Faß 16 [16 16]- DRY 2015 A bright, vibrant wine with clear slate and citrus fruit, combined with an appealing softness on the finish. Drink Magnums (6- bottle-case) Ayler Kabinett Faß 8 [08 16] 2015 Lots of zing here, with energetic bright lemon/lime fruit, brisk acidity and a delicious mineral kick. A classic Kabinett, light and pure, that will give pleasure for twenty years and more. Drink Ayler Spätlese Faß 7 [07 16] 2015 Fizzes with energy: the bright citrus fruit is complemented by tropical notes of pineapple and passion fruit, and there is a creamy richness on the long finish that will come more to the fore as it settles down with age. An absolute delight. Drink Ayler Auslese Faß 10 [10 16] 2015 Very little botrytis roughly 5% lends a creamy softness to the golden yellow fruit, but there is no lack of brisk acidity to keep us on our toes. The finish is very ripe and fine. Drink Halves

19 Peter Lauer (contd.) Ayler Auslese GK [30 16] 2015 Almost the same must weight as the regular Auslese, but 100% botrytis lends a creamy tropical note, and there is a sweet richness to the fruit. The bright, vibrant acidity gives enormous energy, and the wine remains bright and clear, with a long, focussed finish. Drink Halves 270 Saarfeils Beerenauslese [32 16] 2015 Intense, clear tropical fruit, almost decadent in flavour, tautened by vibrant citrus acidity. This is elegant, dense, and endlessly long. Drink Halves 390 A Saar view 19

20 Schloss Lieser Lieser (Mosel) Since taking over Schloss Lieser in 1992, and buying it outright in 1997, Thomas Haag has grown the estate from 6.5 to 20 hectares, now owning vineyards in Lieser (Helden), Brauneberg (Juffer and Juffer- Sonnenuhr), Wehlen (Sonnenuhr), Graach (Domprobst), Piesport (Goldtröpchen and Falkenberg) and Bernkastel (Doktor). He is now in the top rank of Mosel producers, and one of the most sought-after in Germany, crafting taut, pure wines that clearly express their vineyard origins. In 2015, Thomas Haag loved the combination of creamy ripe fruit from the hot summer and spicy mineral flavours from the cool autumn. He had to irrigate his young vines, but otherwise he was relatively relaxed during the growing season. Poor flowering led to loose bunches, so there was little rot, and the Indian summer permitted a leisurely harvest. The wines are brilliant: focussed, terroir-driven and a joy to drink. A Helden BA and TBA will be released later. As usual a Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese and Auslese LGK will be auctioned in September. No less than five Grosse Gewächse from Helden, Juffer, Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher Himmelreich will be released in September. Thomas Haag Schloss Lieser Kabinett [01 16] 2015 A classic cool, mineral-driven spicy wine, showing vibrant citrus acidity, focus and elegance. Drink Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett [06 16] 2015 Clean, pure orchard-fruit flavours of apple and pear are framed by lemony acidity and a powerful minerality the most present out of all four Kabinett wines. There is lovely delicacy and ripeness, and considerable length. Drink Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett [07 16] 2015 An intensely floral nose leads to gorgeous fruit flavours on the palate of ripe pear and warmer tones of peach, accompanied by fresh green tones. This is pure, at once both dense and light, and there is a vibrant mineral-rich finish. Drink

21 Schloss Lieser (contd.) Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett [08 16] 2015 Showing the delicate minerality typical of the vineyard, with vibrant citrus fruit and lovely density, this is extremely fine. A creaminess is evident too, on the long rich finish. Drink Lieser Niederberg Helden Spätlese [09 16] 2015 The most powerful of the four Spätlesen made this year, but there is no lack of finesse either. It shows earthy mineral flavours, zesty citrus-based fruit with a delightful cool quality, and a long creamy finish. Drink Magnums 78 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [10 16] 2015 Fruity, warm and floral on the nose, this has a very fine mineral seam, ripe citrus acidity and a hint of blossom, with cool orchard fruit and peach flavours. It is very elegant and long. Drink Magnums 84 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese [11 16] 2015 A seamlessly elegant and ethereal wine, with each element in perfect juxtaposition: delicate minerality, ripe, bright acidity, and cool fruit. Absolutely delightful. Drink Magnums 84 Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese [12 16] 2015 A fruit-driven wine, with a generous spread of apple, pear and even some pineapple, but also with ample smoky mineral tones. The finish is rich, juicy and long. Drink Magnums 114 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese [13 16] 2015 Particularly striking is the delicate, fantastically elegant filigree minerality running through. The wine is quite extraordinarily fine, with bags of energy and power lurking underneath the polish. Drink Magnums

22 Schloss Lieser (contd.) Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese Goldkapsel [14 16] 2015 At last, a hint of botrytis in the form of some tropical notes, but the wine remains squeaky clean and pure nonetheless. Ripe yellow fruit, vibrant pithy lemon-and-lime-scented acidity and a creamy smooth finish make it rounded and complete. Drink Halves 162 Magnums 63 each Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel [15 16] 2015 Early-picked grapes affected by a very clean botrytis were added to the ripe golden-yellow ones harvested later, and there is a little more weight as a result. The very zesty racy acidity keeps it nimble, and there is glorious elegant fruit, smooth and creamy, with a hint of spice to take in on the way. Drink Halves 198 Magnums 66 each 22

23 Georg Mosbacher Forst (Pfalz) Sabine Mosbacher and Jürgen Dürigner are based in the heart of the best area of the Pfalz. Their wines are never showy, never rich nor heavy, but excel through finesse and elegance. They have now converted fully to organic viticulture, and all harvesting is done by hand. Sabine Mosbacher reported a very successful vintage. The vines did not suffer in the heat, possibly because growth was reduced anyway as a result of organic farming, which meant the vines did not need so much water. Rain came at the right moment, and cool nights in the autumn preserved acidity. Three Grosse Gewächse will be released in September. Sabine and Jürgen Mosbacher-Düringer Georg Mosbacher trocken [03 16] - DRY 2015 Delicate yellow fruit, elegance and finesse, plus a pithy rounded finish indicate a wine punching well above its weight. Drink Deidesheimer Leinhöhle trocken [26 16] - DRY 2015 There is intense floral and yellow peach fruit, with vibrant citrus acidity to give definition, some mineral flavours and a juicy balanced finish. Drink Wachenheimer Gerümpel [28 16] - DRY 2015 Very ripe and rich, showing pure yellow fruit and a lovely balancing minerality. Drink

24 Egon Müller Wiltingen (Saar) This famous estate has produced an impressive range of 2015s. Egon Müller is Germany s botrytis specialist, and even in 2015, where there was precious little of it, his rigorous selections produced some fantastic wines at the upper levels, to be sold at fantastic prices at the auction. Last year, his 2003 TBA achieved a price of 12,000 per bottle. For ordinary mortals, there is delightful intensity and purity to be found lower down the scale. A separate Kabinett, two Auslesen, two Auslese GK, a BA and a TBA were also made. Some will be released at auction this year. The estate does not make dry wines. Scharzhofberger Kabinett [02 16] 2015 Vibrant and pure, showing smoky ripe yellow fruit and a pronounced minerality, with a long, powerful finish. Drink Magnums each Scharzhofberger Spätlese [07 16] 2015 Very mineral and yeasty in its youth, this has bright lemony acid and gorgeous yellow fruit and lime flavours; there is a hint of botrytis, and the finish is lingering and powerful. Drink Magnums each Scharzhofberger Auslese [09 16] 2015 Forward and ripe, the fruit here is shading into the tropical; the sweetness is balanced by a massive hit of acidity and minerality, and the whole is pure, elegant and long. Drink Halves (

25 Willi Schaefer Graach (Mosel) After the stress of 2014, when they lost almost everything, the Schaefers welcomed the relatively easy 2015s, and particularly relished the leisurely harvest, which ran from 1 st to 27 th October. They are hailing a great vintage, similar in style to A Domprobst Spätlese and Auslese GK will be auctioned in September. There is no GG this year (too much acidity). Christoph & Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett [02 16] 2015 Delicate, ripe and floral, with very expressive mineral notes, this is playful and charming, but long and intense, too. Drink Graacher Domprobst Kabinett [03 16] 2015 With more mineral depth than the Himmelreich, this has gorgeously zingy fruit, lots of citrus acidity and a very long, energetic finish. Drink Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese [08 16] 2015 This has the intensity of an Auslese, showing intense, sweet golden yellow fruit with floral notes, searing acidity, and lots of powerful mineral flavours, culminating in a long juicy finish. Drink Graacher Domprobst Spätlese [10 16] 2015 Intense, focussed and very bright, this is more powerful than the Himmelreich, with more minerality and a creamy edge to the pure intense fruit. The finish is long, strong and bright. Drink Magnums 99 Graacher Domprobst Spätlese [05 16] 2015 More of a light Auslese, this is ample, creamy, and elegant, showing more yellow, tropical-scented fruit, with powerful rounded mineral flavours and a persistent finish. Drink Magnums

26 Willi Shaefer (contd.) Graacher Himmelreich Auslese [04 16] % botrytis in here, but you wouldn t notice, the result is so clean and clear: all it provides is a creamy roundness to the fruit. This is countered by acidity that would be positively bracing in other wines but is easily matched by the intense yellow fruit and minerality. All this power, yet the wine manages to be playful and elegant, too. The finish is long and fruity, with a delightful salty edge. Drink Halves 150 Magnums 50 each Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese [17 16] 2015 From young vines in the newly replanted (tiny) parcel, now three years old. Brisk, vibrant and rounded, the elegance of the vineyard shines through in the form of very fine mineral flavours and floral, zesty fruit, culminating in a ripe, juicy finish. Drink Halves 180 Graacher Domprobst Auslese [11 16] % botrytis, but it s so clean you wouldn t know. There is an abundance of salty minerality, lush tropical fruit and ripe lemony acidity. It is powerful, creamy, and long. Drink Halves 192 Magnums 65 each Graacher Domprobst Auslese [14 16] % botrytis, but still clean and pure. The fruit is very golden yellow, rounded and creamy, offset by lemon and lime flavours and a powerful, intense minerality. There is lovely balance here, and a long rich broad finish. Drink Halves 294 Magnums 95 each Graacher Domprobst Beerenauslese [16 16] 2015 A mere 150 litres of this was made. It is wonderful, and worth fighting for: there is elegance, finesse and power, and the fruit is very yellow, very ripe and very concentrated, with a lovely honeyed tone, and a long lemony pithy mineral finish. Drink bottle case 540 Halves (

27 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenau (Nahe) The best vintage produced so far by the gifted Tim Fröhlich, who wines display breathtaking energy, precision and finesse. Although the Nahe is one of the driest regions in Germany, his old vines did not suffer in the drought; more important for the quality of the vintage were the cool nights in the second half of September and throughout October, from which the grapes regained freshness. To reap maximum benefit, Tim delayed the harvest as long as possible, and it was extended over a six weeks, allowing each parcel to be harvested at optimum ripeness. Maceration of the grapes was cut to 4-6 hours, less than half that in previous years, to keep the wines pure. Another significant change was the purchase of a second press. This has allowed longer, gentler pressing, and the wines have more finesse, elegance and structure as the result. Six grosse Gewächse will be released in September. A Felseneck Auslese GK will be sold at auction. An Eiswein was harvested at the end of January in the Felseneck, and there may be other gems tucked away from this vintage that will appear at auction later. Tim Fröhlich Vulkangestein trocken [09 16] 2015 From year-old vines in Felsenberg and Stromberg. There is an interplay of bright citrus fruit and minerals in this crisp, clear wine, which has a fine structure and a long, salty finish. Drink Schiefergestein trocken [10 16] 2015 From year-old vines in Felseneck. Liquid slate in this: juicy, salty and very pure. There is huge energy, ripe yellow fruit with a fresh cool green note, and great elegance and length. Drink Felseneck Kabinett [13 16] 2015 Harvested early from a parcel favoured by the afternoon sun, this is bright, with aromatic golden yellow and a herbal element; the acidity is brisk and lemony, and there is purity, delicacy and length everything you could ask for from a Kabinett. Drink

28 Schäfer-Fröhlich (contd.) Felseneck Spätlese [14 16] 2015 Harvested two and a half weeks later than the Kabinett, this has a seductive mix of yellow and cool green fruit, counterpoised by powerful salty mineral flavours. A precise, racy wine with perfect balance and a long smoky finish. Drink Felseneck Spätlese Goldkapsel [15 16] 2015 As last year, the grapes were picked on the same day as the regular Spätlese, but from older vines in south-facing parcels, giving an altogether more intense wine. There is greater fruit concentration than in the regular release, but the same elements of yellow fruit and cool fresh nettle flavours; the minerality is darker, and combined with the vibrant acidity balances the higher sweetness level to the extent that it tastes almost drier. It is elegant and poised, and has a long juicy, hot mineral-driven finish. Drink Felseneck Auslese % botrytis. Dense and packed with energy, this shows yellow and spicy herbal fruit, a filigree minerality and a very fine, long rich finish. Very exciting. Drink Halves (

29 C. von Schubert Mertesdorf (Ruwer) German wine lovers not living on Mars will already be aware of this year s big news: Carl von Schubert has rejoined the VDP, nearly a hundred years after his grandfather left it. This is a huge feather in the VDP s cap, as it now includes almost all of the Mosel s greatest estates. For wine lovers little will change, except that the finest cuvées will be sold expensively at the auction rather than direct from the estate. After several years of poor yields, things were marginally better in There was no damage from drought, although the September rains were welcome, even if they came a little too heavily for comfort: of the 100 litres per square metre that fell in that month, 30 litres arrived in five minutes on 6 th September! The Riesling harvest began on 8 th October, and was over on 28 th. Carl von Schubert was particularly pleased with the purity of the botrytis. An early botrytis was green-harvested in early October, and the late one, affecting only ripe grapes, was pure and light, emphasising the wines fruit flavours rather than adding a strong spicy note. It was joined in the press by a number of healthy grapes that had shrivelled purely through evaporation, which in turn add purity and density. An Abstberg Kabinett and Spätlese will auctioned in September. Two GGs will be released in September. Carl and Renate von Schubert Abstberg Superior [23 16] 2015 The finest grapes of the Abstberg, fermented with minimal intervention to near dryness. The result is a powerful, off-dry wine, ripe and spicy, with bags of fruit and bright acidity. Drink Magnums 117 Abstberg Kabinett [07 16] 2015 Always one of the best Kabinetts of the Mosel. This year it is fresh, vibrant and fine, with clear cool green fruit, spice and mineral tones. There is perfect balance, purity and the ethereal lightness that comes out in the best years. Drink Magnums 75 Herrenberg Spätlese [09 16] 2015 Typical gooseberry and herb notes run through this, enveloped by vibrant sweetness and elegant mineral notes. Drink

30 C. von Schubert (contd.) Abstberg Spätlese [17 16] 2015 Crammed with energy and power, yet this manages a magical lightness of touch, delicacy and finesse. There is a perfect balance of cool stone fruit, peach, spice, zingy lemon and fine minerals, and a long, satisfying and juicy finish. Drink Magnums 87 Double 78 Magnums (each) Herrenberg Auslese [10 16] Balanced, harmonious, soft and elegant, but with tingling lemon acidity and an appealing density on the finish. Drink Abstberg Auslese [11 16] Botrytis beginning to show at this level, but it s delightfully fruity and light, emphasising the ripeness of the tropical fruit, and backed by brisk acidity. The finish is smooth and long. Drink Halves 126 Magnums 129 Double 106 Magnums (each) Herrenberg Auslese Fuder 31 [14 16] Herbaceous and exotic, showing hints of mango and pineapple and a delicious salty minerality. There is now around 35% botrytis, but it is worn lightly: just a hint of fresh apricot and a lightly raisined quality. It also lends density and adds richness to the long finish. Drink Halves 225 Abstberg Auslese Fuder 24 [12 16] Very elegant, intense, smooth and fine, this bursts with energy and bright tropical fruit and salty flavours. There is power here too, and a very fine pure finish. A quite extraordinary wine. Drink Halves 195 Abstberg Beerenauslese [13 16] Cor! Dense botrytis tones on the nose: apricots, raisins and ripe tropical fruit. On the palate it explodes with energy, and there is a dense viscous feel to the clean, pure, fruit and mineral tones. The finish is long and powerful. Drink bottle case 750 Halves (6-bottle case)

31 Philipp Veser Mülheim (Mosel) Philipp Veser is Thomas Haag s right-hand man at Schloss Lieser, but farms some vines on the side in the excellent Sonnenlay vineyard in Mühlheim. Philipp Veser Mühlheimer Sonnenlay Spätlese [01 16] 2015 A delightful wine: fine and elegant, with ripe yellow fruit, lovely lemony acidity and brilliant mineral definition. As well-balanced and harmonious as a Spätlese gets. Drink

32 Daniel Vollenweider Traben-Trarbach (Mosel) A lovely vintage here, and very unexpectedly so. Daniel Vollenweider reported a dry summer, and then a good deal of rain in September a bit too much for comfort, in fact. There were fears of a repeat of the conditions of 2014, but these proved to be unfounded: the rain abated and glorious weather followed, allowing a leisurely harvest starting on the 5 th October and finishing on the 29 th, picking grapes all the way up to tiny quantities of Trockenbeerenauslese. Daniel Vollenweider Schimbock [09 15] 2014 Just 400 metres down-river from the Goldgrube, the grey slate soils of Schimbock produce structured, mineral-driven wines, which are vinified dry. The 2014 is ripe and rich, with lovely intensity and a long finish. Drink Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett [01 16] 2015 A rich wine with golden yellow fruit on the nose, ripe lemony acid and lovely mineral tones. It is rounded, vibrant and juicy, and the long finish is harmonious and elegant. Drink Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese [02 16] 2015 From a parcel Portz which has ungrafted 100-year-old vines. It is vibrant, pure and lemony, with a density and abundance of fruit that is rather more Auslese in style. There is a lovely mineral backbone, and this combined with the tautening acidity makes it taste drier than it is. The finish is bright and long. Really good. Drink Magnums 90 32

33 Daniel Vollenweider (contd.) Wolfer Goldgrube Auslese Goldkapsel [03 16] 2015 There was too much botrytis for a regular Auslese, so we jump straight to this beautifully rich, concentrated wine packed with pure ripe apricot and tropical fruit. There is fantastic energy and finesse, and a healthy bass note of minerality. A superb wine with a great future. Drink Halves 252 Magnums 246 Wolfer Goldgrube Beerenauslese [04 16] litres made. Very luscious and rich, this elegant wine has purity and intensity, with vibrant acidity, minty, honeyed yellow fruit with a hint of green, and a long satisfying finish. Drink Halves 732 Wolfer Goldgrube Trockenbeerenauslese [05 16] 2015 Just 20 litres made. Pure, and elegant, with a massive hit of sweetness and an equally powerful lash of lemony acidity, this raisined, apricot-scented wine left us gasping. To quote the great wine critic Eric Idle Eight bottles of this and you re really finished. Drink Halves each 117 Wolfer Goldgrube 33

34 Robert Weil Kiedrich (Rheingau) An absolutely superb collection from this grand estate. Wilhelm Weil reported even higher temperatures than in 2003, and less rain. These two factors slowed vine growth and prevented sugar levels from rising. Had it rained earlier than late September, there would have been explosive growth, the grapes would have swollen and burst, and he would have been faced with bad rot. As it was, the rain held off until just the right moment, there was a clean, pure good botrytis, and wonderfully concentrated and balanced wines. Wilhelm Weil Robert Weil Kabinett [11 16] 2015 Soft, rounded and balanced, showing cool orchard fruit with a hint of fresh mint, earthy mineral flavours and finishing on a pleasing sweet-sour note. Drink Kiedrich Gräfenberg Spätlese [15 16] 2015 An elegant creamy note accompanies the lemon-scented yellow fruit, along with a hint of green freshness. The wine is juicy, fine and long. Drink Kiedrich Gräfenberg Auslese [18 16] 2015 Very ripe golden-yellow grapes with no botrytis give a rich, creamy wine with yellow tropical fruit, ripe soft acidity and plenty of energy. There is a finesse and balance typical of the estate. Drink Halves (

35 Weiser-Künstler Traben-Trarbach (Mosel) The remarkable story of Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler continues. Like their friend Daniel Vollenweider, they continue to produce fantastic wines from vineyards so hard to work that they have been given up by others as unviable. The quality is consistently dazzling. All wines we have chosen are from the Ellergrub, an impossibly steep vineyard with blue slate soil split into terraces, each with its own microclimate. Konstantin Weiser Enkircher Ellergrub Kabinett [04 16] 2015 Powerful and mineral driven, this shows fresh lime notes and a hint of juicy tropical fruit. It has excellent cut, and is light and long. Drink Enkircher Ellergrub Spätlese [03 16] 2015 A very small amount of botrytis less than 5% crept in here, but it remains focussed, lean and elegant, with dense cool, fresh green nettle flavours and a hint of golden yellow fruit. There is lots of lemony brightness and a rich salty mineral finish that rounds it out beautifully. Very special. Drink Enkircher Ellergrub Auslese [02 16] 2015 One would imagine that the 100% botrytised grapes used to make this would result in a wine that is both opulent and perhaps a touch heavy, but not a bit of it. So clean and pure was the botrytis, and so bright the acidity, that there is a delightful freshness to the golden yellow fruit, the intense minerality and the long razorsharp salty finish. Drink Halves

36 Weiser-Künstler (contd.) Enkircher Ellergrub Beerenauslese [01 16] 2015 This is superbly rich, kept fresh and vibrant by searing acidity. There is a positive cornucopia of fruit: peaches, pineapples, mangos and apricots, as well as a pleasing green note. It is elegant, powerful, and the minerality gives it a long salty, slightly hot finish. 50 litres made. Drink bottle case 270 Halves (6-282 Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburg (Saar) After forty years at the helm, this June Hanno Zilliken is handing over the reins of the estate to his daughter Dorothee and her husband Philipp. In that time he has made this historic estate one of the best in Germany, producing wines from the key sites of Rausch and Bockstein that age spectacularly well is a fantastic high-note to end on! A Rausch GG will be released in September. There are auction versions of Rausch Spätlese, Auslese, Auslese LGK and Beerenauslese. Dorothee & Hanno Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Kabinett [09 16] 2015 Fruity and ripe, with the weight of a Spätlese, this shows mouthwatering soft citrus acidity, tropical notes, and pleasing, smooth mineral flavours on a creamy long finish. Drink Magnums 87 Saarburger Rausch Spätlese [08 16] 2015 Made from ripe yellow shrivelled grapes, this is packed with tropical fruit of mango and pineapple, but the pronounced mineral flavours give it more definition than was found in the Kabinett, making it seem leaner. Lovely softness and elegance on the long, sweet/salty/sour finish. Drink Magnums

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