2011 Vintage Port Declaration

Transcription

1 2011 Vintage Port Declaration Whenever a vintage is generally declared it is tasted blind and in near silence at Head Office by a team which combines members of Corney & Barrow with other luminaries in the Port world. Results are collated in a historic tome, which has records of these tastings dating back to the 1934 vintage. Last Thursday (16 th May), the tasting team embarked on an assessment of the 2011 vintage and its wines. We were delighted to welcome Tim Stanley-Clarke and Godfrey Spence to join us. It was a memorable occasion as the wines were extremely good. Background The 2011 vintage is really exciting. A combination of the growing season, investment in vineyard and wineries and some pretty feisty competition has produced some exceptional wines. The concept of terroir has slipped into common parlance which is relatively new in the Douro perhaps as a consequence of turning to table wine production. The base wines are so much better today than, say, twenty years ago and there is another important element here. Until 1991, the spirit used to fortify Port and arrest its fermentation was, by law, government-issue, the quality of which was beyond the Port houses control. Since 1991 they have been able to source their own, looking for the most refined, neutral spirit possible. In doing so, they have ensured that purity of fruit prevails, ensuring, in turn, that vintage port is so much easier and enjoyable both to taste and drink young. The way these ports are showing suggests that they will drink really well for a few years, for those who enjoy youthful freshness. They are likely to close down for a period and, when adolescent truculence is curbed, will probably last for decades. In the interests of something meaningful we have only suggested from dates. These are post what we believe will be a closed period. The Growing Season A vintage year invariably owes much to the final few months of the preceding year would not be the great vintage it unquestionably has become were it not for a very wet end to Above average rainfall meant there were much needed reserves deep in the schist rock of the Douro providing a lifeline during the 2011 growing season saw an extraordinarily dry start, with just over half the average rainfall of the past 24 years, in the Douro. There was not a single drop of rain in July. Despite the reserves, there were still concerns about heat stress, particularly when a heat spike on the 25 th June inflicted sunburn on some grapes. Attendant concerns included potential mildew and oidium in April and May both were hot and this, accompanied by some rain, provided humid conditions, so favoured by fungal attacks. Already the die had been cast for a small harvest. Production of many of the wines is very limited. Two elements were key in the success of the vintage. Firstly, June, July and August, though very dry as outlined, were also cool, by Douro standards. Secondly, the cavalry arrived on the 21 st August, and again on the 1 st September in the form of rain, 15.4mm and 17.8mm respectively. Sugar levels were such that an early harvest was predicted and some did indeed harvest early. The grapes had not

2 however achieved full phenolic ripeness and many of the key houses elected to wait. The rain had facilitated a final spurt in the vineyards and the tannins were able to ripen, and the skins to soften, making for a great deal of enthusiasm about the potential of these wines. Alison Buchanan Associate Director, Buying May 2013 The Ports Graham s 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 19 40% Touriga Nacional, 31% Touriga Franca, 23% old vine field blend, 6% Sousão Harvest here started on the 15 th September, finishing on the 4 th October- though it had been expected to begin in August. The date of harvest depended on the site. Graham s is, in fact, the product of five very different Quintas, a blend which surpasses all of the complementary individual components. At a tasting in London, Johnny and Paul Symington talked us through the five elements, giving their audience an insight into the final blend s complexity and some idea of the skill involved in achieving the house style. The colour is fathomless inky plum in common with most wines of the vintage. The nose exudes very ripe red fruit, violets, tea, citrus traces and wet stone minerality. The palate in turn is supple, creamy and generous, chocolate and citrus notes supported by rounded, fruit-coated tannins. There is an almost paradoxical harmony, balancing seductive, plump generosity and bright, fresh vitality precise and focused cases were produced, 2230 allocated to the UK which gives an idea of its rarity- 28% down on 2007 and with the vagaries of the vintage allied to savage selection the bottled wine represents only 8% of production. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK 235/case of 12 halves, in bond UK The conditions for ripening and harvesting were as good as perfect and almost unprecedented. Charles Symington, Head Winemaker, Symington Estates (Dow s, Graham s, Smith Woodhouse, Cockburn s, Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta de Roriz) Graham s The Stone Terraces 2011 Corney & Barrow Score Touriga Nacional dominated field blend This comes from two extraordinary, small 18 th century terraced vineyards within Quinta dos Malvedos, recognised for consistently producing remarkable wines. One, Port Arthur is 1.2 hectares, facing due east, favoured by the full morning sun. The hand built walls of the terraces act as storage heaters later in the day and on into the night. The second, Vinha dos Cardenhos is a mere 0.6 hectares, facing north, its aspect lessening the impact of the often torrid Douro summers. The rest of Malvedos (which makes up the majority of Graham s port) faces south and makes for a very different style. In 2011 the vineyards were picked together on the morning of the 21 st September and were then fermented in one lagar. The resulting wine is extraordinary and the decision to set it apart wholly vindicated. The Symington family see this wine as a tribute to the men and women who built the original stone walls in the 18 th century. Jet-plum in colour, this has a lovely, intriguing nose, a very seductive blend of spice, pepper, cherries and cream suffused with violets and refreshed by hints of mint and cassis. The palate echoes the aromatics presented on the nose, complemented by chocolate orange notes. There is lovely weight and mineral tension, real power with a profusion of tannins,

3 making for very attractive balance - very fine. Having built up the wine it really is stunning we regret to say there are only 250 cases for the whole world sadly, extraordinarily scarce. 495/case of 6, in bond UK Warre s 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 18 40% old vine field blend, 37% Touriga Nacional, 23% Touriga Franca Warre s is a blend of three separate, quintas, Quinta da Cavadinha (53%) and Quinta do Retiro (28%) which have been fundamental to Warre s for generations and, in 2011, a small quantity (19%) from Quinta da Telhada. Each provides an individuality which contributes to the finished wine. Cavadinha, relatively high in the Pinhão Valley is cooler and later ripening, aromatic and fresh. Retiro, in the Rio Torto Valley houses older, low-yielding vines which add concentration. This year s addition of Telhada, from the heart of the Douro Superior adds aromatics and texture. The wine is made at Cavadinha, one of the most advanced wineries in the Douro, ideally suited to the complexities of taking in batches of grapes at varying times and from three separate properties. Warre s 2011 has a really pretty, fresh nose, fragrant berries, sherbet and violets to the fore spiced too. The palate is lithe, lissom and elegant with great purity and persistence, reflecting the aromatic components of the nose. Silk-textured, there is nonetheless a seam of graphitic minerality which, allied to fine, noble tannins, give focus and direction through to a protracted finish very impressive. There are just 3000 cases of Warre s 2011, of which 1100 are destined for the UK. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK 195/case of 12 halves, in bond UK Cockburn s 2011 Corney & Barrow Score % Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 10% old vine field blend and 5% Sousão The Symington family are delighted to have taken full ownership of Cockburn s in 2010 and have set themselves the goal of rediscovering its legendary greatness. At the end of the 18 th century and beginning of the 20 th century Cockburn s was regarded above its peers. In 2012 the family held a tasting, of every major vintage since 1896, in order to gain an understanding of the house style, at its peak and perhaps what went wrong on the latter half of the last century has benefited from the findings of that historic tasting, where it became clear that the very finest wines showed tremendous finesse and elegance rather than latent power. This informed how the family made This comes from three vineyards, Quinta dos Canais (80%), Quinta do Vale Coelho (15%) and Quinta do Cachão de Arnozelo (5%). Each brings certain character to the final blend. Cockburn s 2011 is on a charm offensive from the outset, with a pretty nose presenting an array of violet, rose, summer pudding berries and hints of marmalade. The palate is similarly aromatic, strawberry notes emerging and milk chocolate adding to a delightful, fragranced style. Graceful, pure and refresh, this has an ethereal quality though there is nonetheless a persistence on a mineral-rich finish a great ambassador for the vintage. There are 3000 cases of Cockburn s 2011, 1000 of which are destined for the UK. 185/case of 6, in bond UK Dow s 2011 Corney & Barrow Score % Touriga Franca, 36% Touriga Nacional, 14% old vine field blend and 10% Sousão Once again, the Symingtons are able to call upon a number of quintas to perfect a blend which has the quintessential Dow s hallmark. Here the vineyards are Quinta do Bomfim (35%), Quinta de Senhora da Ribeira (42%), Quinta do Santinho (14%) and Quinta da Cerdeira (9%) - very varied in style and distinctive geographically. Deeply coloured, this presents a relatively restrained nose, cautiously revealing hints of berried fruit, citrus, chocolate and minerals. The palate feels a degree drier than the rest of the portfolio, more disciplined and reserved initially, opening up gradually to reveal a profusion

4 of violet, cassis, cherry, summer berries, tea, chocolate orange and marmalade notes. Something of a chameleon, Dow s 2011 refuses to be pigeonholed, the aromatics constantly evolving. The texture is dense and taut and there is real power, tension and focus through to a determined, gripping, mineral finish - impressive. There are 5000 cases of Dow s 2011, just 14% of the production, with 1200 destined for the UK. 220/case of 6, in bond UK 225/case of 12 halves, in bond UK It was immediately clear that very good wines were being made; the colour at the very early stage of fermentation was excellent The aromas in the wineries were simply wonderful. Paul Symington, Symington Estates (Dow s, Graham s, Smith Woodhouse, Cockburn s, Quinta do Vesuvio, Quinta de Roriz) Quinta do Vesuvio 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 17 45% Touriga Franca, 40% Touriga Nacional. 10% Tinta Barroca, 5% Tinta Amarela Quinta do Vesuvio occupies a magnificent site in the Douro Superior, housing some of the oldest mono-varietal plantings in the Douro. The entire production is foot-trodden in lagares built in Anyone still believing that this is just for tourists, can think again. Having done an hour or so under the stern gaze and orders of he who must be obeyed - sergeant major in chief no talking, just marching with the teams who had started hours before we arrived this is a serious work-out maximising concentration and intensity of the must in as brief a time as possible. Deeply coloured, this reveals really attractive candied blueberry and fresh flowers on the nose, violet and rose. The palate is velvet-textured, opulent and complex with nuances of black fruit, fennel and marmalade, supported by beautifully integrated peppery tannins. Luscious and inviting with a refined mineral tension, this is staggeringly good such elegance! There were 1250 case of Quinta do Vesuvio 2011 produced of which 300 cases are destined for the UK. 205/case of 6, in bond UK Smith Woodhouse 2011 Corney & Barrow Score % old vine field blend, 44% Touriga Francia Smith Woodhouse, along with the other houses, endured savage selection in 2011, production being but one third of the previous two vintages. The rigour applied during selection has been vindicated by the classic nobility of the finished wine. This has an exhilarating exuberance from the outset with a really lovely nose, rich in violet, rose and berried fruit. The palate rises to the challenge with layered opulence, intense bramble and cassis layered with dark chocolate and liberally spiced, all punctuated by minerals and noble, coated tannins, authoritative and stylish. There are 1000 cases of Smith Woodhouse /case of 6, in bond UK 2011 has produced textbook Vintage Ports, classics in every sense. The wines have wonderful purity and elegance but also plenty of background and structure. Adrian Bridge, Managing Director, The Fladgate Partnership (Taylor s, Fonseca, Skeffington, Croft) Skeffington 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 16 Skeffington is a brand created for using leftover grapes from Taylors and Fonseca. It is very much a port-drinkers vintage port, accessible, easy-drinking and excellent value showing really well in Intense black plum in colour, the nose evokes a medley of fruit and spice, cherries, pepper and tea,

5 with a citric lift very appealing. This is borne out on a similarly aromatic palate, pretty, pure and fresh, berried fruit suffused with violets and roses, lightly spiced with a twist of orange zest and a persistent seam of minerals very attractive, easy-going and fresh. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK Fonseca 2011 Corney & Barrow Score The Fonseca port blend comes from three properties, Quinta do Cruzeiro on the Pinhão Valley, Fonseca s flagship estate Quinta do Panascal and Quinta de Santo Antonio. An intense, opaque jetplum with a tight purple rim, this is dark, dense and brooding on the nose, delivering trace notes of wild herbs, tea, black fruit and crushed stone minerals. The palate is more overt, revealing luscious berried fruit blackberry and cassis, touched by mint, earthy undercurrents and dark chocolate, all supported by firm, coated, well-integrated and powerful tannins. Fresh, pure, opulent and gripping this shows breeding and muscle throughout, sustained in a controlled, long, rich finish. There are 6000 cases of Fonseca for the world. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK Croft 2011 Corney & Barrow Score Croft is a blend which is always based on the wines of Quinta da Roêda, a particularly fine estate on the north banks of the Douro. In 2011 all the components of the blend come from this property, including the low-yielding old vines. Jet plum in colour with a tight, firm fuchsia rim, this reveals heady floral and berried aromatics on the nose- rather exotic and charming - though there is a reticence there, a sense of darker, more serious complexity which will evolve, given time. This is not as flirtatious as it first appears, borne out on the palate which reveals considerable complexity, abundant, ripe fruit, set within a luscious velvet textured frame. Ebullient and generous there is nonetheless considerable muscle and drive, tannic vigour and a mineral focus which persists throughout wellstructured and powerful, though a little shy alongside Taylor s and Fonseca from the same stable. There are 5000 cases of Croft 2011 for the world. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK Taylor s 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 19 The grapes for Taylor s benchmark blend come from the finest wines of the company s own estates. There are three quintas in distinct geographical locations, properties which each contribute their personality to the final blend, Quinta de Vargellas - the backbone, Quinta do Junco and Quinta de Terra Feita. Opaque, inky plum, fathomless, this has an intriguing, complex nose, layered and intricate. Blueberry and cassis fruit vie with violets, white and pink pepper, wet schist minerals and coffee on the nose heady and alluring. The palate is more buttoned-up, tannic tension and drive reining in some of the exuberance of the nose. The aromatics are all still there and, in fact, complementary savoury notes also play a role and all will re-emerge given time. The structure is disciplined, very classical with fine, noble tannins which will serve well in the coming years and decades a very focused and extremely impressive translation of the vintage and ambassador for the Taylor house. There are 11,000 cases of Taylor s 2011 for the world. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK The 2011s stand out for the purity of fruit and the quality of the tannins, which are silky and wellintegrated but provide plenty of structure. David Guimaraens, Winemaker, The Fladgate Partnership

6 Taylor s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 19 This 2011 is extremely rare and given that this is only the seventh vintage released to date, any vintage is hard to find. This comes from five distinct parcels of old vines on Quinta de Vargellas terraces. The low-yielding vines are between 80 and 120 years old and there a great many varietals, making for complexity as well as intensity in the finished wine. Intense plum in colour with a firm purple rim, this reveals an appetising medley of aromas on the nose, multi-layered and elusive, constantly evolving and with plenty more to give, in time. Violets and roses make for a very pretty overture, brambles and cassis swiftly vying for dominance, complemented in turn by savoury notes, tea, dark chocolate and minerals. The palate reflects all of the aromatics presented on the nose, restrained a little by beautifully-integrated, fine-grained tannins gripping, rigorous and taut. Innate power here is palpable and impressive a very, very fine wine yet so rare. There are just 310 cases of Taylor s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 2011 for the world. 330/case of 3, in bond UK The 2011 s are true and clear Vintage Port material: massive, fruity, jammy, powerful tannins long living ports. Cristiano Van Zeller, Quinta Vale dona Maria Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2011 Corney & Barrow Score This is a blend of more than 25 different traditional Douro grape varieties, predominately Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca, but also Rufete, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Francisca, Sousão, and many others. These are predominantly from old, low-yielding vines as well as more recent plantings. The vineyards range between 25 and 60 years old, from south, south east, south west, east and west facing vineyards a very varied palate with which to perfect the blend. Deeply coloured, intense inky-plum, the 2011 vintage offers a blend of cassis, black cherry, candied blueberry and bramble, with back notes of violet, rose and spice. The palate reflects the aromatics presented on the nose, set within an elegant, if muscular, frame - refined, upbeat and long. There are 1150 cases produced for the world. 145/case of 6, in bond UK 55/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK Pintas Vintage Port 2011 is a single vineyard port, made from 80 year old vines located at Vale de Mendiz, south exposure with a field blend of more than 30 different indigenous grape varieties. The harvest was planned for the third week of September in perfect weather conditions. All grapes previously selected and non-de-stemmed were trodden in the traditional granite lagares and aged during 19 months in an old port vat. The low vigour and very healthy vines combined with very balanced temperatures during the maturation of the grapes, resulted in a Port showing excellent freshness, fruitiness and great acidity. Sandra Tavares, Winemaker (Wine & Soul) Wine & Soul Pintas 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Pintas is from a single vineyard housing ancient vines of 80 years plus. Husband and wife team Sandra and Jorge have found an excellent site. This is a field blend. Plum-purple, with a tight rim, this offers an intriguing, appetising blend of sweet violet and rose, minerals, spice and berried fruit, with a savoury edge. The palate has attractive balance, a mineral focus and precision, ripe, accessible and generous through to a very pretty, perfumed finish. 155/case of 6, in bond UK

7 Niepoort 2011 Corney & Barrow Score Niepoort is produced from several vineyards in the Cima Corgo area from vines of between 60 and over 100 years old. The grape mix is a field blend of many varieties including Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional, foot trodden in lagares. Deep, inky plum in colour, this offers a heady array of cassis, cherry, orange zest and warm fruitcake, black tea, pepper and spiced notes. The palate is soft and rounded, luscious and satisfying, supported by fruit-coated tannins and refined graphite minerals which give focus to a prolonged, energised finish. 210/case of 6, in bond UK Niepoort's Bioma Vinha Velha Port 2011 Corney & Barrow Score Bioma Vinha Velha is a single vineyard port, from the very, very old vines of Vinha da Pisca mostly over 80 years old, low-yielding and organically managed. Formerly included in Niepoort vintage port, it has been treated separately from 2005, in recognition of its very distinctive terroir. Dark, intense, inky plum, firm to rim, this was initially a little reserved on the nose, opening up to reveal plum and cherry compote, refreshed by orange zest. The palate is much more gregarious than the nose suggests, offering really attractive fruit purity, red and black berries, dark chocolate cherry liqueur, silk-textured lifted and fresh with a heady dash of pepper. Mineral notes underpin the aromatics through to a long, layered stony finish. 130/case of 3, in bond UK Quinta do Noval 2011 Corney & Barrow Score Quinta do Noval is an impressive estate in the Cima Corgo, near the small town of Pinhão. The blend comprises 60% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Francesa and 10% Tinta Cão. This is an intense, dark colour, firm to a tight rim. The nose, subdued initially, offers cherry liqueur, citrus zest and milk chocolate orange, allied to persistent minerals. The palate echoes the aromas on the nose, set within a ripe structure. This is at once muscular and perfumed with a lovely, if paradoxical balance. 250/case of 6, in bond UK Churchill 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 18 Churchill s vintage port is a blend from a number of old vineyards, with the backbone coming from Quinta da Gricha which delivers a field blend of 50 years and over vines. As suggested earlier, much more attention is being paid to place and here, Gricha is on the south bank of the river, benefiting in hotter years like 2011, from its more northerly exposure. The wine is also made at Gricha, the grapes foot trodden in traditional lagares. Jet-shot purple in colour, with a tight, firm rim, this has a certain reticence on the nose initially, gradually opening up to reveal nuances of dark chocolate, cherry liqueur, black fruit compote and marmalade, all punctuated by crushed stone minerals. Structured and firm on the plate, the aromatics reflect those of the nose, dark chewy and dense and ultimately sweet and fresh on a high-toned, elegant finish very classical style. 200/case of 6, in bond UK

8 Sandeman Port 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 18 Lustrous plum-purple, this has a very savoury, dark avuncular nose, beefy in character with vague fruit compote and warm fruitcake notes, pepper-spiced. The palate reflects the nose, gamey, complex and layered with gripping but well-integrated tannins. Chunky and very long, this has considerable personality and innate power. Recommended drinking from /case of 6, in bond UK Ferreira Port 2011 Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Intense jet-plum with a tight, bright rim, this has a slightly restrained nose, gradually opening up to reveal candied blueberry, warm fruitcake and stony minerals, with a heady dash of pepper. The palate is more effusive, sweet, sappy red and black fruit with distinctive mineral and tannic seams throughout - chunky. 200/case of 6, in bond UK Offley Boa Vista Corney & Barrow Score 17 This is a really deep, inky-black, with a dark, dark rim, very richly-textured, clinging to the glass. The nose is dark and savoury, gamey even. The palate, in contrast, is much more upbeat, energised and expressive with ripe cassis, blackberry and plum, supported by fine-grained tannins and underpinned by a clear mineral dimension which extends through a sweet, layered finish. 170/case of 6, in bond UK TASTING GUIDE Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection A very good to excellent wine An excellent to outstanding wine An outstanding to legendary wine. Wines are judged within their peer group. A definitive score of a young wine is almost always impossible. We usually offer a 'spread' (e.g ) which relates to the potential to achieve a higher mark. A + adds further to that potential. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes. To order, please call (London), (East Anglia), (Edinburgh), or (North of England)