2003 and 2002 Chablis. Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus

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1 R ound Up 2003 and 2002 Chablis July / August 2004 Issue 115 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Petit Chablis: Pure aromas of grapefruit and white flowers. Fresh, juicy and nicely concentrated; made from grapes picked on the first day of the harvest. Lively acidity gives the wine's fruit a penetrating quality. As always, this Petit Chablis, from a single parcel of vines on light, chalky Portlandian soil, transcends its appellation points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis: Pure aromas of grapefruit and flowers. Broader and silkier in the mouth than the Petit Chablis, but with lovely cut. Not especially complex but rich and very persistent, finishing with a grapefruity perfume points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Sechets: Riper, more exotic aromas of dried apricot and hazelnut. Full and sweet but a bit youthfully hard-edged; this does not have the same balance for early drinking as the village wine. But offers lovely nervosite and energy in the middle palate and on the very long, uncompromisingly dry, aromatic back end points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Vaillons: Sweet fruit aromas of pineapple and grapefruit, complicated by smoke, spices, iodine and gunflint; very sexy and showy today. Then round and dense in the mouth, with superb palate coverage. Complex flavors of grapefruit, smoke and wet stone are framed more by the wine's minerality than by its average, ripe acids. A real mouthful of stones and minerals on the very long finish. A superb early showing for this wine points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis La Forest: Introverted nose hints at flowers, menthol and spices; a bit less precise than usual for this cuvee Then quite tightly wound and closed in, with powerful, penetrating flavors of grapefruit, marginally ripe pineapple, stone and spices. The Vaillons is much flashier today, but this is ultimately more important, and makes a beeline for the salivary glands. Mounts slowly on the back half and dusts the palate with grapefruit, spices, licorice and stone points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Les Preuses: Crushed stone, raw pineapple and licorice on the bracing nose. A large-scaled, horizontal wine that covers the palate with liquid stone. Extremely dry and backward. With its powerful minerality, this is as chewy as a solid on the back half, finishing with a whiplash of flavor. Can there be a better Preuses than Dauvissat's version? points 2003 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Les Clos: Subtly spicy aromas of candied grapefruit peel and crushed stone, with some oaky high tones. Extremely closed and almost painfully intense, with taut flavors of pineapple, grapefruit, powdered stone and minerals, complicated by notes of cinnamon, vanilla, lychee and exotic fruits. Extremely dry and classic, if a bit difficult to taste today: one can feel the wine's size and power but it's hard to envision its ultimate personality. This will probably not be bottled until February of 2005, notes Dauvissat points

2 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Petit Chablis: Lemon, honey and a note of resiny oak on the nose. Sweet, dense and minerally, with excellent texture for the appellation. Flavors of pineapple and honey offer good verve. I marked this down a point or so for its slightly rustic resiny oak quality. In direct contrast to the 2003, this is from fruit picked at the end of the 2002 harvest. 87 points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis: Aromas of mirabelle and candied grapefruit. Fat, rich, dense and clean, with flavors of pineapple and stone. Very youthful, minerally, incisive Chablis villages 89 points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Sechets: White flowers, mint and menthol on the reticent but pure nose. Then wonderfully suave and fresh in the mouth, with very intense fruit and stone flavors conveying a strong impression of energy. A very dry premier cru with salty, dusty soil tones saturating the palate. Le vrai Chablis. 92 points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Vaillons: Lemon peel, peach and almond on the nose, along with a honeyed nuance. Then sweet and fruity in the mouth, with grapefruit and citrus zest flavors. Less saline and minerally than the Sechets but with no shortage of energy. From deeper clay soil. 91 points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis La Forest: Wet stone, smoke and flowers on the nose, along with complicating musky and herbal nuances. Wonderfully ripe and silky on entry, with grapefruit and menthol flavors, then almost painful on the back end, finishing with palate-coating mineral dust and liquid and superb persistence. This, too, offers an impression of energy in the mouth that I too rarely get from chardonnay grown on the Cote de Beaune. 93(+?) points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Les Preuses: these vines are now 32 years old; bottled in February of 2004) Very ripe but unforthcoming aromas of wet stone, honey and oatmeal. Extremely primary on the palate, with bracing grapefruit and mineral flavors and superb vibrancy. This offers great sweetness and breadth without any impression of weight. Finishes with explosive citrus and mineral flavors and great finesse. Wonderfully refreshing wine that's the perfect antidote to dry mouth. Like the young 2003, the finish of this wine seems to come in waves. 96(+?) points 2002 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat/Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Les Clos: Inscrutable nose hints at green apple, pineapple, spices and minerals. Large-scaled and pure but extremely difficult to taste today. Owing to its bracing acids and powerful minerality, this comes across as almost painful. But the flavors run deep, and the tight finishing minerality lingers long on the palate. Offers more volume than the Preuses but the Preuses shows greater precision and elegance at present. 94+ points Domaine William Fevre 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Beauroy: Bright aromas of apple and spice. Juicy but on the lean side, with slightly tart flavors offering moderate ripeness. This is reasonably ripe in terms of alcohol but could use more depth of flavor. 85 points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montmains: Spicy aromas of minerals and flowers. More tactile and mouthfilling than the Beauroy; the difference, notes director Hervet, is the minerality of this wine. Today this shows more material and character points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Lys: Very pale, green-tinged color. Pure, perfumed aromas of quinine and pineapple; hinted at exotic fruits and a light lactic quality as it opened in the glass. Juicy and subtle on the palate, with notes of smoke, flowers, gunflint, stone and minerals. Finishes with very good length and a stony firmness. This technically could have been bottled as Beauroy, notes Hervet, but in fact this site is more stony, and with a more southern exposure, than the clay-rich Beauroy. 88 points

3 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Vaillons: Musky, very ripe fruits on the nose, along with saline and flinty nuances; in more of a Cote d'or style than the Lys and Montmains, which are more typical Chablis. Rich, soft and fat, with a distinctly open-knit texture and flavors of lime, mint and menthol. "Wine for beginners," says Hervet points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Mont de Milieu: (the only one of these wines made from purchased grapes, although Hervet notes that the Fevre team controls all aspects of the harvest and vinification) Very ripe aromas of pit fruits and honey. Chewy, lush, fruity and rich, with sweet flavors of yellow fruits and spices. Finishes with lovely fruity persistence points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montee de Tonnerre: Aromas of powdered stone, lemon, lime and quinine, plus a suggestion of petrol. Then rich, fat and sweet in the mouth, and stuffed with fruit. The wine's solid underlying minerality gives shape and cut to the flavors. Finishes very long and slightly minty. This has sound acidity for the vintage of about 3.8 grams per liter points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent: Musky aromas of dried apricot and quinine. Big, sweet, spicy and rich, with excellent density of fruit. Holds its shape nicely on the long, ripe, spicy back end points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grenouilles: Good pale, green-tinged color. Cool, slightly metallic aromas of mint and snap pea. Fresh and minty, with good volume but less obvious ripeness and complexity than the other top crus at this address. A rather easygoing wine that will be drinkable early. Tastes like a wine made from vines that struggled to ripen. Vines that face full south had problems during this extremely hot summer, noted Hervet, as did young vines in general. (No leaf pulling was done at William Fevre in 2003, a wise decision as this year the fruit benefited from having a bit more protection from direct sunlight.) points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros: Captivating aromas of ginger, smoke, mint and snap pea; rather Gruner Veltliner-like. Fat, full, rich and easy to understand, with a superripe suggestion of banana. Finishes with an impressive whiplash of flavor. A serious cuvee this year, which Hervet says is rare for Bougros. "Bougros is a bit like Batard-Montrachet, which can be very good in a hot, dry year," he noted points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots: More precise aromas of flowers, spices, grapefruit, minerals and petrol. As rich as the basic Bougros but showing more life and minerality in the mouth, as well as more acidity and grip. Finishes spicy and long points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir: Enticing, green-tinged color. Complex nose melds lime blossom, smoke, quinine and minerals. Large-scaled and rich, with hints of exotic fruits and a strong wet stone character. Very ripe but not yet filled in. Comes across as a tad warm and heavy for young Vaudesir. This was virtually the first vineyard harvested at Fevre. Last year Hervet, who also directs Bouchard Pere et Fils on behalf of the Henriot family, told me that this vineyard is typically harvested the same day as Bouchard's holding in Le Montrachet. But this year the Vaudesir was picked two days earlier points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Valmur: Good green color. Subtle, precise, soil-inflected aromas of chalk, wet stone and ginger. Juicy, sweet and sharply delineated, if a bit youthfully reserved today. Classic Valmur flavors of lime, spice and wet stone. Very rich, dense wine with an impressively slow-mounting, long finish points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Preuses: Good pale green color. More expressive if somewhat less complex on the nose than the Valmur, with notes of menthol, mint and banana. Fat and fruity in the mouth, with the exotic banana note reappearing. Offers plenty of palate feel, but finishes with some alcoholic warmth. Much more vintage-typical than the Valmur points 2003 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Clos: Subtle aromas of powdered stone, lemon, lime, minerals and white flowers. Dense but closed in on itself; implodes on the palate with salty, iodiney minerality and boasts impressive acidity for the vintage. Very dry and classic; I never would have picked this as a Finishes quite long and brisk, with a note of powdered stone and excellent lift. The yield here was barely 22 hectoliters per hectare in 2003, according to Hervet points

4 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis: Smoke, minerals, oatmeal and a charry note on the nose. Sweet and spicy, with good richness and cut. Offers good length and consistency of texture for village wine. 88 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Beauroy: Quite reduced on the nose. Sweet, fat, slightly reduced chardonnay, with somewhat generic fruit and little obvious minerality. Less complex today than the village wine. 87 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montmains: Bracing aromas of minerals, mint and stone, with a whiff of honey. Juicy and highly concentrated, with vibrant flavors of lime blossom, mint, honey and stone. A penetrating wine with lovely inner-mouth energy. Distinctly honeyed on the end. "In a Raveneau style," notes Hervet. 89(+?) points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Lys: Very clear, pale color. Pure nose shows strong saline and iodiney soil tones. Dense and chewy, with lovely sweetness in the middle palate. Intriguing flavors of oatmeal, toast, menthol and dusty stone. An idiosyncratic, connoisseur's wine with a dusty finish. Incidentally, Hervet suggests that Chablis drinkers should hold off on drinking the estate's 2002 premier crus for two to four years, and wait a good seven or eight years to attack the grand crus. "Drink the '01s and '03s early," he summarized. "Forget the 2002s and the 2000s for now." 90 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Vaillons: Very ripe, highly aromatic nose combines pink grapefruit, lime oil and mirabelle, along with a smoky, carnal note. Rich, fat, layered and sweet, with very ripe fruit flavors complemented by notes of wet stone and petrol. Very long and ripe on the back end. 90 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Mont de Milieu: Very pale, green-tinged color. Captivating aromas of lime, powdered stone, confectioner's sugar and mint. Dense, lush and sweet, with a piquant sugar/acid balance and enticing lime and mineral flavors. This has creamy old-viney depth and a terrific core of sweetness. Finishes very strong, tactile and long. 91(+?) points 2000 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montee de Tonnerre: Pale, green-tinged color. Musky aromas of vineyard peach, quinine, ginger, snap pea, petrol and wet stone, with hints of exotic fruits. Large-scaled and rich but very unevolved. An impressively expansive wine with strong, soil-inflected flavors of lemon, lime and powdered stone. Finishes with terrific persistence. This has grand cru palate presence and complexity. "The best Montee de Tonnerre we've made to date," notes Hervet. 93 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent: Very ripe aromas of apricot and peach. Thick, dense and ripe, with a sweetness of fruit that almost suggests some residual sugar. And yet this comes across as less exotic than "regular" Fourchaume thanks to its strong underlying minerality. Very rich, fat wine with grand cru texture and a long, highly aromatic finish. I'd enjoy this one before the Montee de Tonnerre. 92 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grenouilles: Very ripe nose shows a bit more oakiness than the foregoing 2002 premier crus. Sweet, very ripe and fat, with solid framing acidity but only moderate complexity. Intriguing suggestions of oatmeal and coconut. Fresh, concentrated, juicy and long, but almost too easy for grand cru. 90 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots: Dusty minerality, coconut and spices on the slightly exotic nose; this fruit was picked at the end of the harvest in Very rich, fat and sweet, with its superripe, slightly carnal flavors of peach and oatmeal enlivened by ripe acids and dusty stone. Much less austere and backward than it appeared to be from barrel a year ago (like the Grenouilles, this was vinified and spent its first several months in barriques, about 3% of which were new). A big, rich, thoroughly ripe grand cru with a succulent sugar/acid balance and a very long, ripe finish. 91 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Preuses: Pure, sweet aromas of lime blossom, minerals and flinty soil; offers much more lift today than the Cote de Bouguerots. Then very ripe but racy on the palate, with creamy-sweet citrus and stone flavors enlivened by bracing acidity. Wonderfully fresh, supple grand cru Chablis with superb inner-mouth energy. Finishes very long, lush and sweet, with a whiplash of fruits and stone. "A real competition wine," notes Hervet, "always more showy early on than the Valmur and the Clos." 93 points

5 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir: Very pale, green-tinged color. Steely aromas of powdered stone, lime blossom and petrol. Then suave and penetrating, with terrific citricity and cut. And yet this dense, rather powerful wine is not at all hard. The flavors of lime and talc coat the entire palate. Offers great intensity and palate presence without any undue weight. Superb. 93 points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Valmur: Good pale color. A great expression of grand cru soil on the nose: lime, chalk, iodine, mint, toast, smoke, wet stone, mineral salts and honey. Wonderfully rich and lush on the palate, with deep stone, floral and honey flavors given shape and grip by strong acidity. A wine of great texture, purity and persistence, revealing powerful extract on the back end. And a relative value for white Burgundy, as are all of these 2002s: Hervet notes that this is less expensive than Bouchard's Meursault Boucheres, one of that village's lesser premier crus. 94(+?) points 2002 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Clos: Very pale, green-tinged color. Reticent, somewhat reduced, soil-driven aromas of crushed stone, petrol and lime blossom. Extremely primary today, but already hinting at great incipient complexity, with notes of talc, citrus skin, white flowers and white pepper. Dense and fat with sheer extract; a real mouthful of liquid minerals. Superconcentrated, seamless and penetrating. The Valmur is easier to taste today, but this should be an extraordinary wine with six or seven years of additional aging. It's entirely possible that most of the top 2002 crus here will close down in bottle over the next year or two. 95+ points Domaine Louis Michel 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis: Pineapple and white truffle on the nose; less exotic than the Petit Chablis, which showed aromas of banana and mango. Juicy and fleshy, with ripe fruit flavors lifted by a floral note. Offers decent concentration and length points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons: Aromatic nose of mint and lime blossom. Then fat, layered and a bit warm in the mouth, with a somewhat heavy quality. This has texture but today I don't find a lot of depth of flavor. A tad bitter on the back end points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Montmains: Subdued but pure aromas of talc, white truffle and white pepper. Juicy and firm in the mouth, with mint and mineral notes giving the wine good cut. The crop level here was barely 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Michel, and the resulting wine shows more obvious structure and length. The firm-edged finish boasts good grip points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Montee De Tonnerre: Subtle, clean aromas of lemon and stone. Offers good volume and dimension but seems a bit blurry for a young wine from this vineyard, with only moderate depth of flavor and a note of lychee. Comes across as a bit dry and not yet filled in; is this simply evolving more slowly? Shows some alcohol on the back end points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Vaudesir: Lively aromas of citrus peel and mint. Broad in the mouth, with a reasonably juicy character to its citric and mineral flavors. But finishes with distinct alcoholic heat points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grenouilles: Aromatic nose of orchard fruits and spices. Offers fairly concentrated stone fruit flavors, along with exotic hints of lychee and banana. Here the wine's acids seem a bit strong, and the finish is distinctly tart-edged, even sour, without enough supporting flavor. Distinctly disjointed today points 2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Les Clos: Nicely lifted aromas of minerals, talc, lemon and mint. Less fat but more intense than the Grenouilles, with harmonious acidity giving the wine a more typical Chablis balance. Finishes with good breadth, notes of dusty stone and citrus fruits, and good length. Best of all, this shows a light touch missing in the other grand crus from this estate points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Petit Chablis: Ripe aromas of lemon, stone fruits, smoke and spices. Sweet and fairly supple; lemony but not tart. Offers good freshness and persistence. 85 points

6 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis: Fruit-driven aromas of apricot, peach and acacia blossom. Juicy and fresh, with intense citrus flavors nicely framed by firm acids and underlying minerality. Good honest village Chablis. 87 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Vaillon: Cool aromas of crushed stone, mint and citrus fruits; much more classic in character than it appeared to be a year ago. Supple on entry, then fatter than the village wine but less open and expressive today, less filled in. Finishes with good length and a stony reserve. 88 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Montmains: this includes 60-year-old vines in Butteaux) Precise aromas of white flowers, white pepper and talc. Fat, dense and tactile, with lively citrus and mineral flavors offering very good intensity. The wine's richness is nicely buffered by excellent cut. Very persistent on the finish. 89 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Montee De Tonnerre: Musky aromas of gunflint, wet stone, smoke and white flowers. Fat, full and seamless, with a silky texture and impressive volume and palate presence. Juicy acids and firm minerality give verve to this complex wine. Has the mounting, very long finish of a grand cru. 90 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Vaudesir: from vines averaging 45 years of age) Aromas of smoke, spice, white pepper and crushed stone. Less plump than the Montee de Tonnerre but quite dense and more tightly structured. Offers strong, concentrated stone fruit flavors accented by white pepper. Finishes with excellent subtle persistence. 90 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grenouilles: from a blend of 46- and 25-year-old vines) Complex aromas of stone fruits, white pepper, snap pea, smoke and blond tobacco. Fat, sweet and seamless, with a rather open-knit texture for a 2002 grand cru. Intriguing notes of white pepper and smoke. Finishes lush, smooth and long, and much less austere than the Vaudesir and Clos. Weighs in at just under 13% alcohol, which is quite reasonable for this grand cru: Jean-Loup Michel told me that the younger vines here are "fatigued" and have been producing less sugar in recent years. 90 points 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Les Clos: Precise, nuanced, subtle aromas of lime blossom, crushed stone, white pepper and menthol. Very intense, steely and austere, with a decidedly more urgent minerality than the other 2002s at this address. Dense and thick but not at all heavy, with sneaky depth of citrus and stone flavor. Finishes very long and minerally but not at all hard. The yield here was in the range of 40 hectoliters per hectare, according to Michel. 92 points

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