Wine bottle's back label reveals much about quality

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1 /features/sc food 0131 wine back label _1_wines artadi rioja Wine bottle's back label reveals much about quality A bottle's back label often reveals all you need to know: the importer January 31, 2014 By Bill St John, Special to Tribune Newspapers Labels on imported wines. (Bill Hogan, Chicago Tribune) Our American wine market is like Dickens' "A Tale of Two Cities," the best of worlds as well as the worst of worlds. On no other country's retail shelves are we faced with so many other countries' wines. That's thrilling and it's daunting. And the difficulty of choosing a good wine is ramped up when the labels are in a foreign tongue or when they name wines in an unfamiliar manner (say, by region rather than grape variety). Most do both. That's when it pays to turn the bottle around and read the back label rather than the front. Don't even bother with the worry, at least initially, of learning another country's wine appellations or producers or even vintage years. For many foreign wines, the work of vetting the best has been done for us by that wine's importer, the person or group that has gone out from these shores in search of good wine and found it.

2 Some of these people have been nosing out fine wines from France, say, or Italy for decades, and their reputations are fail-safe. Kermit Lynch and Robert Kacher, for example, are synonymous with French wines, especially from smaller, certainly little-known but also top-drawer producers. Leonardo LoCascio built an entire company,, on the thousands of cases of solid Italian wine that he's found and brought into the U.S. since the 1980s. I've worked up a list of importers of wines from many countries, each of which, in my experience, has what the wine trade calls "a good book," wines that they have found, sometimes squirreled away in the nooks of another country's winemaking vineyards, and brought to our, yes, crowded wine sales shelves. But they make buying easier; their names alone are guarantees. Go to their websites to learn more about the wines that they bring to us, the grape varieties behind the label names, the commonly small producers who craft these wines and the stories behind the places from which those wines and artisans come. A trio of recommendations and a list for you to clip and keep. Bill St John has been writing and teaching about wine for more than 40 years. Three wines to try 2011 Michel Gassier Cercius, Cotes du Rhone, France: You'll find this about, but for sure at Whole Foods, which spotlights it as one of its "Top Ten Wines"; it's a terrific southern Rhone, 85 percent grenache and 15 percent syrah, from vines that are more than 80 years old (unheard of, by and large, at this price level), with waves of aromas and tastes of fresh red cherry and spice and a terrifically juicy feel on the tongue; no-wood aging merely accentuates those goods. Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars. $13-$ Luberri Vineyards Biga, Rioja, Spain: From the founding winemaker of the famed Artadi winery of Spain, now out on his own in Rioja; 100 percent tempranillo from 40-plus-yearold vines, with ebullient berry aromas and flavors, in an elegant, smoothly rendered style, with hints of wood and vanilla and grace notes of spice and earth. De Maison Selections. $20-$ Denis Jamain Reuilly Les Pierres Plates, Loire, France: Everyone (too many everyones) knows Sancerre from this general region, but few know this small neighboring appellation; it, too, is all-sauvignon blanc, but here also in a softer, riper style, with more weight and richness than many a Sancerre and marked whiffs of citrus and minerals all at a lot less than most Sancerre. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. $20 If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price. Importers to know: AUSTRIA

3 Circo Vino Terry Theise AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Negociants USA Old Bridge Cellars CHILE/ARGENTINA TGIC Importers Vine Connections FRANCE De Maison Eric Solomon Selections/ European Cellars Kermit Lynch Mad Rose Group/Rosenthal Wine Merchant North Berkeley Imports Robert Kacher Selections GERMANY Michael Skurnik Wines Rudi Wiest Selections

4 Terry Theise ITALY Dalla Terra Marc de Grazia Mad Rose Group/Rosenthal North Berkeley Imports PORTUGAL Obrigado Rare Wine Co. SPAIN Classical Wines De Maison Eric Solomon Selections/ European Cellars Ole Imports Rare Wine Co. Steve Miles Selection Valkyrie Selections

5 WESTERN BALTICS DEEP IN MANY COUNTRIES Domaine Select Wine Estates Michael Skurnik Polaner Selections Vineyard Brands Weygandt-Metzler Importing

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