A FIRST LOOK AT OUR EDITORS MOST EXCITING NEW WINES. Insider

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1 A FIRST LOOK AT OUR EDITORS MOST EXCITING NEW WINES Vol. 7, No. 36 Sept. 7, 2011 Insider Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher A Members-Only, Biweekly Publication INSIDER SPECIAL REPORT: CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE The best wines from the potentially outstanding 2009 vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, crown jewel of France s Southern Rhône Valley, are now being released. Prestigious producers like Domaine de Beaurenard, Clos des Papes, Domaine St.-Préfert, Roger Sabon, Paul Autard and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe all appear in this week s Wine Spectator Insider special report. The 2009 vintage features polished textures, forward fruit and slightly elevated alcohol levels, but the best producers still fashioned fresh, delineated wines that will cellar well for 10 to 15 years. This report features 58 Châteauneuf-du-Papes, seven of them classic-rated. There are many top reds here, but don t overlook the handful of superb whites, which have steadily improved over the past several years. Find six of the best selections in this crowd of great bottles, the Hot Wines, on page 6. James Molesworth FRANCE Châteauneuf-du-Pape DOMAINE ST.-PRÉFERT Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Cuvée Spéciale Vieilles Clairettes points $150/1.5L 20 cases imported White Subtle at first, this slowly builds on layers of citrus oil, honeysuckle, melon eau-de-vie, white peach and rose water for impressive range. The rounded edges are combined with a racy minerality through the middle, with a bracing dash of pink grapefruit, resulting in a gorgeous creamy mouthfeel and stunning length. Drink now through J.M. PAUL AUTARD Châteauneuf-du-Pape Juline points $ cases imported Red A beauty, with lush, velvety structure wonderfully embedded in the dense, fleshy core of warm plum, fig compote, hoisin sauce and melted licorice snap notes. The finish is inlaid with spice and Lapsang souchong tea notes, with a flicker of anise as well. Not shy about its toast, but wonderfully integrated from start to finish. Best from 2013 through 205. J.M. HENRI BONNEAU & FILS Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins points $189 NA cases made Red Mature in feel, but still plenty gutsy, with a bacony cedar and tobacco frame to the roasted plum and fig fruit. Lots of pepper, iron and brick dust notes weave through the finish. Grippy and plenty long, but nicely racy, with a mouthwatering sauccison note hanging on the very end. Drink now through J.M. CLOS DES PAPES 94 points $ cases made White Stony, pure and driven, with melon rind, white peach and verbena notes offset by fine cut and precision, as mineral, salted butter and quinine notes ripple through the very lengthy finish. Lovely now, with the fine acidity to develop nicely in the cellar. Drink now through J.M. Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

2 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina points $ cases imported Red Dense, but very velvety, with gorgeous ganache and espresso giving way to dark fig, hoisin sauce and warm currant confiture. Lots of well-embedded charcoal and tobacco add cut and length to the hefty but driven finish. Impressive. Best from 2013 through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous points $ cases imported Red This is packed with flavors of dark plum, boysenberry preserves and licorice, but comes across as silky and perfumy, with gorgeous mouthfeel and alluring incense and Lapsang souchong tea notes that help the finish cruise seamlessly. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE DE CRISTIA Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance points $82 87 cases imported Red This is really packed, but amazingly suave and polished, as the huge core of braised fig, melted licorice, cassis and ganache is seamlessly put together and backed by perfectly embedded grip. The finish is hefty, but a mouthwatering singed iron note keeps it driven. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE DE CRISTIA Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes points $91 54 cases imported Red A dark, nicely toasty style, with bittersweet cocoa and espresso bean notes followed by muscular blackberry, black currant paste and braised fig flavors. The long, fleshy finish lets the cocoa edge hang on, with a tarry echo. This oozes fruit, but has the spine to go the distance. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE GIRAUD Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Gallimardes points $60 63 cases imported Red Rounded and fleshy, with a very juicy core of kirsch, black currant and plum fruit layered with mouthwatering notes of sweet spice and tobacco. The very fresh, silky finish sports a racy graphite edge and a licorice snap note that adds extra length. Accessible now, but this really fleshes out in the glass and has the drive to cellar. Drink now through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chaupin points $ cases imported Red Mouthfilling from the start, with loads of plum sauce, linzer and crushed cherry flavors backed by mouthwatering licorice and roasted spice notes. There s plenty of grip on the finish, with plum skin, pepper, pastis and graphite all chiming in. Best from 2013 through J.M. MAS DE BOISLAUZON Châteauneuf-du-Pape Quet points $ cases made Red This is all lean muscle, with singed mesquite and tobacco notes pushed by dark currant, braised fig, plum reduction and tar flavors that cut a broad swath. Still densely wound through the grippy finish, with a mouthfilling bittersweet cocoa edge that manages to stay polished and fresh. One of the bigger wines in the vintage. Best from 2013 through J.M. MAS DE BOISLAUZON Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tintot Spécial Cuvée points $ cases made Red A dense, dark, brooding wine, with baker s chocolate, espresso and charcoal holding sway over a muscular core of blackberry paste, crushed fig and roasted plum fruit. Thickly coated with structure on the finish, but with the flesh for balance, if you have the patience. Best from 2013 through J.M. CHÂTEAU RAYAS Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Réservé points $ cases imported White This is maturing in feel, with a lanolin edge, but the flavors of chamomile, white peach and pear eau-de-vie are still bright and youthful. Lovely salted butter and green almond notes glide through the very classy finish. This has the balance to age for a while. The best Rayas white since Emmanuel Reynaud took over. Drink now through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Prestige points $ cases imported Red Dark, with a slightly chunky edge to the charcoal, roasted fig, mulled plum and black currant notes. A lacing of espresso and bittersweet cocoa helps add some finesse to the finish. A touch of cellaring should do the rest. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE ST.-PRÉFERT Châteauneuf-du-Pape Auguste Favier Réserve points $ cases imported Red Very rich and caressing, with lovely plum sauce, melted licorice and cassis aromas and flavors all woven together and backed by ample but velvety tannins. The long, tar-stained finish shows wellintegrated grip, while the fruit echoes. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau points $78 5,000 cases imported Red This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted apple wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully. Best from 2014 through J.M. Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

3 DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape White La Crau points $ cases imported White This cuts a nice path, with crème fraîche, green plum, pear and Jonagold apple flavors all woven together and offset nicely by a flash of quinine on the finish. This should age well. This best vintage yet for a Vieux Télégraphe white. Drink now through J.M. PAUL AUTARD Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée La Côte Ronde points $ cases imported Red This is beautifully rendered, with sleek, polished layers of blackberry, cassis and boysenberry fruit inlaid with toasty spice and sweet anise notes. The long, ganache-coated finish glides along despite its heft, with a great roasted mesquite note that lingers on and on. Drink now through J.M. BOSQUET DES PAPES Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes points $74 NA cases made Red Distinctly old-school, showing a smoldering edge of charcoal and roasted mesquite to the core of dense plum and black currant fruit, with notes of hoisin sauce and bittersweet cocoa. There s good drive on the finish, where the roasted wood edge lingers. Best from 2013 through J.M. PHILIPPE CAMBIE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Halos de Jupiter points $ cases made Red This is densely packed and sports a good old-school edge, with aromatic bittersweet cocoa, chestnut and roasted mesquite notes giving way to pure blackberry and cassis fruit, which glides effortlessly through the silky finish. A hedonistic wine with serious definition. Best from 2012 through J.M. PHILIPPE CAMBIE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Halos de Jupiter Adrastée points $ cases made Red Still dark and reticent, with a sleek graphite frame to the reserved core of fig paste, black currant preserves and espresso. Alluring bittersweet cocoa and anise notes cut through the finish, which has well-embedded acidity. Combines modern fruit with dark, brooding structure. Needs to stretch out in the cellar. Best from 2013 through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix points $56 NA cases made Red Quite muscular, with roasted tobacco leaf and charcoal notes up front, backed by a core of blackberry, cassis and plum sauce. Thick but velvety tannins cruise in on the finish, which is long and tarry. Best from 2013 through J.M. DOMAINE FERRANDO Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis points $ cases imported Red This has terrific range, with blueberry, plum, red currant and black cherry fruit all mixed together against a backdrop of pastis, fruitcake and mesquite. The long, velvety finish holds everything together. A fruit-driven style, but lengthy and defined. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE GIRAUD Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition points $ cases imported Red Dense but stylish, with a silky texture to the cassis, macerated cherry and linzer torte flavors, followed by ample spice, pepper, warm ganache and black tea notes filling in the finish. Very fresh acidity carries it all deftly. Best from 2012 through J.M. 93 points $ cases imported Red This is powerfully rendered, with a large core of fig sauce, plum preserves and dark cassis notes that course along, pushed by anise and roasted apple wood flavors and a muscular, graphite-filled finish. Still quite densely packed on the finish, this needs some time to stretch out. Best from 2013 through J.M. 93 points $65 20 cases imported White Rich but remarkably pure, with pear eau-de-vie, blanched almond, green plum and lilting honeysuckle notes all weaving through the stone-tinged finish. Creamy and precise. A beautiful wine. Drink now through J.M. CHÂTEAU RAYAS Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé points $ cases imported Red A very elegant, perfumy style, with shiso leaf and mulled spice notes up front, followed by silky black cherry, linzer torte and kirsch flavors that glide through the incense-tinged finish. There s good latent depth and fresh acidity without the headiness typical of the vintage. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE LA ROQUÈTE Châteauneuf-du-Pape L Accent points $78 75 cases imported Red A very perfumy, velvety style, with gorgeous mouthfeel to the cassis, raspberry and blackberry fruit seamlessly woven with anise, fig paste and spice. A graphite edge keeps the finish racy, with a well-embedded mineral hint. Drink now through J.M. Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

4 DOMAINE LA ROQUÈTE Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Clos points $ cases imported White Very enticing, with creamy texture and lovely persistence to the range of salted butter, honeysuckle, green almond, white peach and yellow apple fruit flavors, followed by a long, mineral-driven finish. Drink now through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve points $ cases imported Red Richly textured, with dense linzer torte, cassis and fig paste notes, but also perfumy, with toasty anise and smoky black tea notes that weave through the finish. Offers a lovely combination of power and finesse. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE TOUR ST.-MICHEL Châteauneuf-du-Pape Feminessance points $69 NA cases made Red Lush and pure, with a gorgeous creamy edge to the densely packed core of cassis, black cherry and plum sauce flavors, all backed by alluring chocolate and tobacco notes that are seamlessly woven on the finish. The fruit is modern and lush, but ample latent grip hangs on the very end too. Best from 2012 through J.M. PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des 2 Frères points $240 NA cases made Red This has a touch more muscle and drive than many of its peers, with smoldering tobacco and dark espresso notes leading the way for a core of crushed plum, braised fig and steeped black currant notes. The long finish has lots of iron-tinged grip. Best from 2012 through J.M. CHÂTEAU DE VAUDIEU 93 points $52 1,875 cases made Red Ripe and very polished, with black currant, blackberry and black cherry fruit allied to solid tannins that are deeply embedded on the finish. Hints of toasty anise, spice cake and graphite fill in the background. The polished feel makes it seem accessible, but this is densely packed and merits cellaring. Best from 2012 through J.M. CHÂTEAU DE VAUDIEU Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Clos du Belvédère points $ cases made White This sports lots of peach, pear skin, crumbled hazelnut and melon rind notes that bounce through the lively finish, where green fig and green plum notes add length. Shows terrific range and purity. Drink now through J.M. BOSQUET DES PAPES Châteauneuf-du-Pape A La Gloire de Mon Grand-Père points $62 NA cases made Red Ripe and fleshy, but old-school in feel, with tobacco, brick dust and cocoa notes framing the core of cassis, black cherry and linzer torte. There s a muscular edge on the finish, where an iron note lingers. Best from 2012 through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes points $60 NA cases made Red Juicy and nicely wound, with a terrific core of cassis and blackberry fruit laced with dark licorice snap and roasted alder wood notes. The long finish is fruit-coated, but with well-embedded minerality. Best from 2012 through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Hautes Brusquières Cuvée Spéciale points $60 NA cases made Red A fleshy, mouthfilling style, with ample layers of plum, fig, anise and boysenberry preserves, laced with bittersweet ganache and maduro tobacco on the finish. Very solid, with latent grip. Best from 2012 through J.M. DOMAINE GIRAUD Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Les Gallimardes points $60 50 cases imported White A big, rounded, mouthfilling style, with creamed melon, white peach and persimmon flavors rushing along, framed by a lightly toasted brioche note. There s a lovely lingering pear eau-de-vie hint on the finish. Drink now through J.M. MAS DE BOISLAUZON 92 points $44 1,780 cases made Red Big and winey, with a dark, muscular core of roasted fig, plum and blackberry fruit laced with cocoa powder and tobacco. Despite its heft, this is polished and pure, with plenty in reserve for cellaring. Best from 2012 through J.M. PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul points $111 1,000 cases made Red Quite ripe, with layers of linzer torte, cassis and blackberry fruit piled on top of well-rounded tannins. Loads of spice and licorice ripple through the finish, with an underlying iron hint. Shows the focus and polish of the vintage. Best from 2012 through J.M. PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS 92 points $ cases made White Pure and enticing, with lovely white peach, verbena, salted butter and chamomile notes backed by a creamy-textured finish that lets a melon note chime in. Drink now through J.M. Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

5 CHÂTEAU DE VAUDIEU 92 points $ cases made White Full-bodied, with a direct beam of peach, quince and green melon fruit flavors backed by whiffs of hazelnut and persimmon on the finish, which stretches out nicely thanks to well-embedded acidity. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE DE VILLENEUVE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Vieilles Vignes points $ cases imported Red This shows a slightly wild edge, with bay leaf and alder wood notes up front, followed by a chewy core of tobacco, fig paste and mulled black currant fruit that all melds into the charcoal-tinged finish. Taut tannins will need a little time to soften, but there s plenty of fresh fruit here to wait it out. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette. Best from 2012 through J.M. PAUL AUTARD 91 points $ cases imported Red Ripe and nicely focused, with a delicious beam of cassis and linzer torte flavors liberally laced with sweet, toasty spice and red licorice notes. The finish is sleek. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD 91 points $ cases imported White Bright, pure, racy and nicely defined, with lovely peach, nectarine, rose water and blanched almond notes that all sail through the stone-tinged finish. Drink now through J.M. 91 points $44 NA cases made Red Dark and winey, with a big core of cassis, plum eau-de-vie and fig sauce notes carried by sleek, rounded structure. The long finish lets the fruit drip while hints of pastis and violet weave in. Approachable now, but can be cellared mid-term as well. Drink now through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes points $55 1,011 cases made Red Features perfumy aromatics, but still a bit tight, with an ironbound core of cassis, raspberry and blackberry fruit, backed by graphite and black tea notes on the racy finish. Should unwind with modest cellaring. Best from 2012 through J.M. 91 points $ cases imported White Very fresh, with delicious melon, peach and heather notes and a long, yellow apple-filled finish. Weighty but pure, with excellent definition. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE DU PÉGAÜ Châteauneuf-du-Pape White Cuvée Réservee points $ cases made White This is very stony, with lots of cut to the lemon zest, verbena, melon rind and white peach flavors. Crunchy and lively through the finish. Drink now through J.M. DOMAINE PONTIFICAL 91 points $39 NA cases made Red A silky, restrained style, with lovely cassis, plum sauce and raspberry notes laced with perfumy incense and anise. Fleshy and driven on the finish, with nice latent grip that sails on with a suave, polished feel. Drink now through J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Olivets points $ cases imported Red Pure, fresh and sleek, with a lovely warm linzer sauce aroma backed by creamy cherry preserves, plum and black currant fruit. Subtle spice shadings hang on the silky finish. Drink now through J.M. CLOS DES BRUSQUIÈRES 91 points $39 NA cases made Red A rather polished, modern style, with rounded mouthfeel to the rich layers of cassis, plum sauce and blackberry preserves, all followed by lush fruitcake and Christmas pudding notes on the finish. Stays rounded throughout, but has ample length and density, and should show more range with cellaring. More modern in style than typical for this domaine. Drink now through J.M. Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

6 HOT WINES These are the most exciting discoveries from our editors most recent tastings, published exclusively in Wine Spectator Insider. They are high-scoring, low-production wines from around the world that may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking out. DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard points $ cases imported Red Powerful, with a muscular core of roasted fig, blackberry and cassis fruit framed by thick, mesquite-tinged tannins and loads of tobacco, pepper and tar coating the finish. Yet despite its power, this is racy and defined, with mouthwatering cut on the finish, where the mesquite note lingers. Ambitiously toasty, yet fully integrated. On par with the superb 2001 and Best from 2014 through From France. J.M. CLOS DES PAPES 96 points $125 9,000 cases made Red Sinewy and reserved, with a light dusting of cocoa powder over the tangy damson plum, red licorice and cassis notes. The long, supple finish, with a lovely wafting note of Lapsang souchong tea, is packed with minerality and tight-grained tannins that will need time to fully evolve. One of the more backward 2009s, though this should pick up steam in the cellar. Best from 2013 through From France. J.M. DOMAINE ST.-PRÉFERT Châteauneuf-du-Pape Collection Charles Giraud points $ cases imported Red This gushes forth, with loads of plum, blackberry and cassis that saturate the palate, while apple wood, tobacco and perfumy incense keep everything fresh and alluring through the very lengthy finish, where a lively peppery hint leaves a mouthwatering feel. Best from 2013 through From France. J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum points $300/1.5L 75 cases imported Red Lush, with very enticing notes of toasty raisin, spice cake, fig sauce and blackberry preserves inlaid with flashes of ganache and espresso. The dense but racy finish features a graphite edge that really extends. Best from 2012 through From France. J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes points $ cases imported Red Very tightly wound, with cassis, black licorice and plum sauce notes held in check by velvety but copious tannins. Plenty of spice, graphite and tar flesh out the finish, which is racy and very long, with a great buried black tea note. Should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2014 through From France. J.M. Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret des Sabon points $ cases imported Red Dark, with very alluring espresso and smoke notes weaving through the dense flavors of fig paste, currant preserves, Black Forest cake and melted licorice. Features intense graphite and black tea notes on the finish, which is packed for now, but has the underlying racy acidity to stretch it out via cellaring. Best from 2012 through From France. J.M. Wine Spectator s tasting staff includes 12 people in two offices. They work together to review more than 18,000 wines each year, more than any other publication. Together, our six senior tasters count more than 140 years of tasting experience. We always taste wine blind in our offices in Napa and New York. This is your guarantee that our reviews are fair and objective, and that a wine s reputation or price does not influence its score. Each editor specializes in the wines of specific regions; their initials identify the taster of each wine reviewed. We score wines using the 100-point scale, explained below. James Laube Senior editor, Napa Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: California Kim Marcus Managing editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: Austria, Greece, Port, Portugal, Southern France WINE SPECTATOR S TASTERS The Most Experienced Team of Wine Journalists in the World Wine Spectator s 100-Point Scale Classic Outstanding Very good Good Mediocre Not recommended Thomas Matthews Executive editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: New York, Spain James Molesworth Senior editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: Argentina, Bordeaux, Chile, Finger Lakes, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, South Africa Bruce Sanderson Tasting director, New York Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: Burgundy, Champagne, Germany, Italy Harvey Steiman Editor at large, San Francisco Joined Wine Spectator in Tasting beat: Australia, Oregon, Washington Tasting staff: Tim Fish (California) Alison Napjus (Alsace, Italy) Nathan Wesley (Italy) MaryAnn Worobiec (California, New Zealand) Wine Spectator Insider Sept. 7,

20-Wines All 90+ Points all under $15!

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