White Vinifera Winegrape Varieties for Eastern Vineyards

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1 Extension Education Center 423 Griffing Avenue, Suite 100 Riverhead, New York t f White Vinifera Winegrape Varieties for Eastern Vineyards Alice Wise, Extension Educator, Viticulturist, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County February, 2013 Contemplation of winegrape varieties is always a fascinating and challenging process. This list of varieties is offered as potential alternative to the white wine varieties widely planted in the eastern U.S. - Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Properly sited, these five varieties are capable of producing high quality fruit in most regions. However, many established, thoughtful industry members have expressed an interest in diversifying their vineyards. Clearly, there is room for exploration and by doing so, businesses can distinguish themselves from a marketing and stylistic viewpoint. This article details our list of the most likely candidates. The intent is not to strongly endorse any of these varieties, rather to open the door to the possibility of trying something different. These are suggestions that merit more thought and contemplation by the winegrower. This could involve research, tasting wines and/or correspondence with other winegrowers, particularly those with experience growing your variety of interest. Even with a thoughtful approach, it is important to acknowledge that each of these varieties will play out differently depending on the climate and conditions in your regions. There are undoubtedly other white vinifera varieties that may also be suited to our eastern terroir. The most prominent features of each variety are discussed based on industry experience and observations. In some cases, opinion and intuition were inserted. Some of the information is derived from the Cornell research vineyard at the Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center, Riverhead, NY. Also very helpful is the excellent work of researchers such as Tony Wolf, Virginia Tech (trials based at Alson H. Smith Jr. Agricultural Research and Extension Center, Winchester, VA) as well as distinguished wine writers such as Jancis Robinson. In thinking about appropriate varieties, the following qualities stand out as important for eastern US winegrowers. Undoubtedly, there are other important qualities not listed here. Winter cold tolerance A limiting factor in some regions, less so in more moderated climates such as Long Island. Note that the varieties discussed here are relatively winter tender and not well suited for regions with temperatures <5ºF. The exception to this is Vidal which is slightly hardier. Disease susceptibility Vinifera are susceptible to black rot, downy mildew, powdery mildew and phomopsis. There may be slight differences in degree of susceptibility but for the purposes of this discussion, we will focus on susceptibility to cluster rot. There are differences in

2 susceptibility among these varieties. We choose to use Chardonnay as our reference, that is, where susceptibility is substantially different (at least to our knowledge), we will mention it. Overall, susceptibility of white vinifera to cluster rot is moderate to high, reinforcing the need for good site selection and proper air drainage of a site. Availability of plant material If a variety is not available in the U.S. on at least a small scale, it is not included. Marketability of a new variety Suitable wine styles, blendability, ability to age, these and more are important considerations when choosing a variety. Vine vigor Knowing the inherent vigor of a variety is essential in order to determine the most suitable site and to plan vineyard management strategies. Ability to fully ripen the variety consistently Some varieties require more heat that we can provide in the east or should be considered only for warmer regions. Productivity Some varieties are very productive, others are prone to alternate bearing or to disorders such as coulure. In some cases, careful selection of clones can eliminate or minimize the issue. But varieties with perennial problems may not be economically viable. Albariño First vines on Long Island were planted in 2009 including the Cornell research vineyard. From NW Spain (Galicia) region and Portugal (as Alvarinho), Albariño likes a cool, maritime climate and establishes well with a very upright growth habit. It is a flavorful variety with lemon, peaches and banana aromas. Wine styles can vary from lean and minerally to more fruit driven and aromatic. Berries are small, thick-skinned and clusters are loose, thus susceptibility to late season rots is low. Robinson notes that juice yields may be low due to many seeds and thick skins. Aligoté Outstanding white wine variety, especially from the cellar of Aubert de Villaine (DCR) in Burgundy, it makes quite a complex but also fresh, high acid, and clean white wine. Robinson describes it as angular and tart but aging in old barrels can help soften edges and smooth out texture. Aligoté has been grown in the Cornell research vineyard on Long Island for more than 10 years. Vines are easy to grow and crop consistently, so much so that heavy cluster thinning is required annually. Fruit flavors tend toward citrus, especially lemon, and indeed acids remain prominent. Probably the biggest issue with Aligoté is its extremely tight clusters and high susceptibility to bunch rot. Sorting fruit at harvest is standard for this variety. Still, this is worthy of a small planting if there is a commitment to proper site selection, canopy and cluster zone management and crop thinning. Arneis A Piedmont variety, Robinson states that wines are full-bodied with crispness and distinctive pear flavors. There are a few US plantings, notably in California. A variety worth contemplating for eastern US growers. Auxerrois A full sibling of Chardonnay, Auxerrois, or Auxerrois Blanc, is an important variety in Alsace. It is often blended with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and other varieties. Clusters are small to medium in size and are very compact. Auxerrois is very rot susceptible, thus sorting will be necessary in wet years. Young wines from the research vineyard have been flavorful (think apples and peaches) and balanced. This is produced as a varietal in other eastern US states. Chenin Blanc The wines from the Loire (Anjou-Touraine) and Delta area of California are

3 very clean, fruity, bright and light. There are late harvest versions in the Loire as well. Clusters are tight and susceptible to rot but not substantially different from Chardonnay. Early in the winemaking process, citrus flavors particularly grapefruit predominate, with one eastern grower describing flavors as evolving into quince. The clean flavors and natural acidity of Chenin Blanc makes it a good companion to seafood, particularly shellfish. Surprisingly, there is only one local winery with this versatile variety. Grüner Veltliner Being planted in the Mid-Atlantic in cooler areas and on Long Island. The Austrian versions are fresh, crisp, fruity with green apple, and citrus flavors but moderate aromatics. Robinson describes as dry, full, spicy and peppery. Like Riesling it can make a nice wine a variety of ripeness levels and may be best as an early drinking, fruity white wine. Grows well (like Chardonnay), even on moderately vigorous sites. Can set a big crop thus thinning may be needed. Thick skinned with loose clusters. While Grüner is less susceptible than Chardonnay to late season cluster rots, sorting may be necessary in wet years. Cold hardiness is reportedly a concern as wood matures slowly though this has not been noted in local plantings. Malvasia Bianca One of many Malvasia grapes, this one produces a tangy wine that benefits from some residual sugar. It s found a home in Southeastern PA and in several plantings on Long Island. It offers fruit with grapefruit, peach and Asian pear flavors and floral aromas. Robinson says it produces tangy, off-dry wines with real substance and character. This has been grown in the Cornell research vineyard in Riverhead for more than 10 years; fruit has been flavorful and delicious even in cooler years such as Clusters are large, cylindrical, berries are large and juicy that may be subject to splitting and uneven ripening. Probably due to aromatic qualities, birds are very attracted to it. Pecking damage from birds renders the clusters susceptible to cluster rot. Normally high vigor and cane pruning may be necessary to maintain productivity. There has been some discussion among ampelographers about the FPS clone not being true to variety but to our knowledge, this has not been resolved. Melon In years past, Melon vines were confused with Pinot Blanc. Like Pinot Blanc, Melon is a somewhat neutral, early maturing white wine that benefits from terroir and manipulation (surlie) in the cellar. It is best known for wines from the Muscadet region. Good cold hardiness and a consistent producer. Tight clusters can lead to bunch rot problems. In California it is reported that high tannins in the skins may render wines susceptible to browning unless handled properly. Muscat Blanc A variety known to have bright and very distinctive fruit flavors. Robinson describes this variety as the best of all the Muscats with the greatest concentration of fine grape flavor, hinting of orange-flowers and spice. Unfortunately, a small planting in Cornell research vineyard in Riverhead did poorly. Vines frequently displayed sterile shoots (no clusters). This aggravated vine vigor, making management more problematic. In a newsletter from Virginia (Viticulture Notes, Nov-Dec, 2007), Tony Wolf also noted the lack of crop on these vines. Clusters are large, very tight and very prone to bunch and sour rot. For this variety, further research and experimentation on a small scale are recommended. Muscat Ottonel Low to moderate vigor vines, small clusters, large berries, very early ripening, very aromatic, simple flavors. Though often precocious in youth, yields moderate as vines age.

4 This has been a very interesting variety in the Cornell research vineyard in Riverhead and as a result, there are now several small commercial plantings. In a trial maintained with 30 varieties, it is among the first vinifera to ripen. However, the early ripening and aromatic qualities attract birds, often making bird control a priority at or even just prior to veraison. Winegrowers are using Muscat Ottonel as blending tool. Ortega (Muller-Thurgau x Siegerebe) or Optima (Silvaner x Riesling x Muller-Thurgau) On this list just because some vineyards are growing it in British Columbia. These two white hybrid varieties from Germany tend toward high sugars and low acids and are therefore useful as blenders. We suggest these as potential wine making tools. They both are reportedly susceptible to rot and coulure. Petit Manseng Native to SW France, work by Tony Wolf and Bruce Zoecklin of Virginia Tech has led to successful plantings in that state. Very versatile variety that makes fine dry, semi to unctuous sweet wines. Berries are very small, thick skinned and relatively rot resistant. It is known to be very late ripening, later than many reds. This may limit its suitability for the northeast. Flavors are variously described from spicy to peaches to pineapple and mango with good acidity. Pinot Blanc A neutral white with no outstanding advantages or disadvantages. Vines are easy to grow and crop reliably. There has been some success in the east with both table and sparkling versions. Also a variety suited to blending. Semillon A variety grown primarily as a blender, especially with Sauvignon Blanc. Grown by a few in the eastern U.S., Semillon is known in France to make wines that range from ordinary to extraordinary, dry to sweet. Typically low in aroma and low in acid in warm years. Flavors are more nutty and earthy rather than citrus. In the Cornell research vineyard, Semillon vines don t seem to thrive as Chardonnay or Merlot do. Leaves display leaf roll-like symptoms (repeated tests have been negative) and fruit sometimes seems to dehydrate before becoming fully ripe. Growers have mixed opinions from favorable to not. There is reportedly a lot of variation in clones, perhaps this is a clonal issue. Tocai Friulano Ampelographers claim it is the same as Sauvignon Vert (as stated by Robinson), it is Friuli s most widely planted white. In the Long Island research vineyard, we have had difficulty with alternate bearing and sterile shoots. Cane pruning is recommended to maintain productivity. Vines apparently have a narrow range of sufficiency when it comes to soil water availability too much and vines become too vigorous (on the order of Sauvignon Blanc), too little and drought stress is evident. There are slight muscat flavors but this variety is known on Long Island for having pear, red grapefruit and green almond characteristics. Fruit is susceptible to late season cluster rot. Verdejo Grown in the Rueda region of northwest Spain and in Portugal, regions that are cool and damp. According to Robinson, Rueda Superior wines must have at least 60% Verdejo. She describes wines as scented, crisp and very promising. Planted in the Cornell research vineyard in 2011, we expect our first crop in 2013.

5 Vermentino According to Robinson, Vermentino is most often associated with Corsica, making wines that are full bodied with ripe fruit flavors. This region is certainly warmer than the northeast, suggesting that this variety should be planted on a trial basis only. Vidal Blanc Often unappreciated by vinifera snobs, the hybrid Vidal is versatile, making terrific dry, semi-dry and sweet wines, even ice wine. It s a great seafood wine. It ripens quite late, well after Chardonnay, but its large, loose clusters are fairly rot resistant. Vidal is capable of consistent production of moderate to high yields of good quality fruit. Prices are quite good for a hybrid white variety. It is susceptible to Tomato Ringspot Virus and thus vines should be grafted. Growers observe winter hardiness to be better than Chardonnay but maybe not as hardy as Cayuga. Vine vigor can be an issue if grown on heavy soils. One grower observed however that in more marginal sites that perhaps would lead to a degree of winter injury in Chardonnay, Vidal would likely survive. Viognier Notoriously temperamental, Viognier has a decent crop in some years, little to none in others. A late ripener, most agree that ripening to high Brix helps to bring out the exotic, tropical flavors. Good canopy management to facilitate the long hang time and low crop are necessary, though in marginal years, there may not be enough heat to fully ripen this variety. In the Riverhead research trial, vines have displayed more vigor than Chardonnay but less than Sauvignon Blanc. One eastern grower noted that in his vineyard, inconsistent cropping was linked to a heavier soil with vigorous vines. References Christensen, L.Peter et.al Wine Grape Varieties in California. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Publication Oakland, CA. Robinson, Jancis Vines, Grapes & Wines. Reed International Books Limited, London. Robinson, Jancis. Guide to Wine Grapes Oxford University Press. New York, NY. Wolf, Tony. Viticulture Notes newsletter, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Vol. 19, No.6 Nov- Dec 2004 and Vol. 22, No. 6, Nov-Dec Thank you to the following individuals for sharing their perspectives. Mark Chien, Winegrape Agent, Penn State Cooperative Extension, Lancaster Co. Charles Massoud, Paumanok Vineyards, Aquebogue, NY Christopher Tracy, Channing Daughters Winery, Bridgehampton, NY Dave Thompson, Bedell Cellars, Cutchogue, NY Ed Boyce and Sarah O Herron, Black Ankle Vineyard, Mt Airy, MD Galen and Sarah Troxell, Galen Glen Vineyard, Andreas, PA Jenny McCloud, Chrysalis Vineyard, Middleburg, VA Larry Perrine, Channing Daughters Winery, Bridgehampton, NY Peter Gristina, Duck Walk Vineyards, Water Mill, NY Rich Olsen-Harbich, Raphael, Peconic, NY Tony Vietri, Va La Vineyards, Avondale, PA

6 Researching a variety or clone of a variety 1. Read the classics. Robinson s books, Caldwell s Guide to Winegrape Clones for Professionals, the California variety book, all have good information. 2. Visit vineyards and wineries locally, nationally or internationally, any place where they grow the varieties you are interested in. Learn how they grow the vines, how the wines are made, what blends are utilized. Taste, taste, taste. 3. Talk to people who grow the varieties regionally. Phone or them. One of the great pleasures of winegrowing is sharing information with your fellow growers. Observations from other eastern winegrowers will be the most relevant. 4. Do on-line research, realizing of course that while much of the information is reliable, some is conjecture. Some of the larger grapevine nurseries have good information on varieties, clones and rootstocks. Foundation Plant Services, the country s primary grapevine certification organization, not only has a list of certified material but also interesting newsletters. There are an endless number of blogs on wine, some very good. Other possible varieties worthy of consideration and investigation. While there is some eastern U.S. experience with a few of these, if considering these varieties, please invest in wine tasting and research before forging ahead. France: 1. Savagnin Blanc (Jura) 2. Rousette (Savoie) Italy: 1. Trebbiano/Ugni Blanc (Soave) grown in the LI research vineyard in the 90 s, clusters were long, cylindrical, late ripening. 2. Ribolla (Friuli) 3. Vernaccia (Tuscany) grown in the LI research vineyard in the 90 s, clusters were large, very compact and very rot susceptible. 5. Garganega (NE Italy) Other: 1. Rkatsetelli (Russia) 2. Chasselas (Switzerland) 3. Furmint (Austria/Hungary)