WA #209, October 2013 Reviews by Jeb Dunnuck, except where noted.

Size: px

Start display at page:

Download "WA #209, October 2013 Reviews by Jeb Dunnuck, except where noted."

Kevin Powers
6 years ago
Views:

WA #209, October 2013 Reviews by Jeb Dunnuck, except where noted. This classic, benchmark estate for traditionally made wines is run by the talented, no-nonsense Laurence Feraud and her father Paul.

1 WA #209, October 2013 Reviews by Jeb Dunnuck, except where noted. This classic, benchmark estate for traditionally made wines is run by the talented, no-nonsense Laurence Feraud and her father Paul. While I struggle to think of a bad vintage here, 2010 certainly has to rank near the top of the heap and both the Cuvee Reservee and Cuvee da Capo are truly stunning, world-class efforts is strong here as well, and should be consumed while you wait on the 2010s to come around. The 2012s are more in the style of the 2010s, with slightly more reserved aromatics, solid purity and beautifully fresh profiles. They too should be more accessible in their youth than the 2010s. A new development for this estate is the roughly 100+ new acres of Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Rhone Villages that have been purchased just south of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, roughly 4 miles from the domaine. Formerly called Domaine de la Jouve, it lies just outside the town of Sorgues and borders the Rhone River on its western edge. Now called Chateau Pegau, the wines from here include a white Cotes du Rhone, the Cuvee Lone, a red Cotes du Rhone call Cuvee Maclure and a red Cotes du Rhone Villages called Cuvee Setier. Laurence s negociant label is call Selection Laurence Feraud and consists of purchased grapes from throughout the Southern Rhone. They always show traditional characters and can represent solid values Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Laurence off the reds and easily the best example of this cuvée since the 2001, the 2009 Châteauneuf 98 pts. Starting du Pape Cuvée Laurence is incredible stuff. Deep, rich and layered, with copious notions of smoked meats, licorice, ground pepper, spice and saddle leather, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, terrific fruit intensity and a rich, mouth-coating texture. Hard to resist now, it should nevertheless have two decades of longevity. Drink now Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up 98 pts. classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink

2 2010 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée da Capo 100 pts. Comprised of roughly 85% Grenache and the rest Syrah and other permitted varieties, aged all in foudre, the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée da Capo is sheer perfection in a glass. Wine doesn t get any better. Incredibly rich and concentrated, yet ethereal and even graceful, it boasts off-the-hook aromas of blackberry, licorice, spice-box, smoked meats and underbrush that continue to change and develop in the glass. Massive and decadent on the palate, yet again, with no weight and a seamless texture, this brilliant effort needs a handful of years in the cellar and will live to see its 30th birthday in fine form. Drink Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Inspiration (magnum only) (98-100) pts. Still not in bottle, the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Inspiration is more sexy and perfumed than the Cuvée da Capo, with incredible notions of roasted meats, saddle leather, sweet currants and Provencal herbs all emerging from the glass. There s a single barrel of this full-bodied, deeply concentrated elixir and I ve no doubt it will be very hard to come by. In addition, this cuvée is only bottled in magnum. Nevertheless, it is spectacular, and I suspect will also have close to three decades of longevity Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée 93 pts. Beautiful in the vintage, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape is a forward, perfumed example of the cuvee that has classic Pegau black fruits, tobacco leaf, pepper and leathery notes as well as medium to full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. Early-drinking by this estate s standards, there s nevertheless good mid-palate density and fine tannin. It should have 15 years or so of overall longevity. Drink now Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée (94-96) pts. As to the 2012s, while there will be no Cuvée da Capo in the vintage, the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape is a beauty. Tasted out of multiple barrels (all of which rated between 94 and 97), it should be a classic Pégau with aromatics similar to the 2010, yet not quite as much depth or richness. Fullbodied and nicely concentrated, all of the samples showed the freshness of the vintage, with ample mid-palate depth, high quality tannin and loads of character. It should benefit from short-term cellaring and have years of longevity. Drink Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée Blanc 87 pts. Moving to the classic Domaine du Pégau releases, and richer than normal, with additional lees contact, the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc Cuvée Reserve (60% Clairette, 20% Grenache, 10% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc) offers honey-tinged notes of citrus, buttered almonds and lees to go with medium-bodied richness and depth on the palate... Drink now.

WA #209, October 2013 2012 Chateau Pegau Cuvee Maclura Looking at the reds and a tank-aged blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, (89-91) pts.

3 WA #209, October Chateau Pegau Cuvee Maclura Looking at the reds and a tank-aged blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, (89-91) pts. 10% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault, the 2012 Chateau Pegau Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Maclura (which is a type of Osage orange tree that s widely planted on the estate) is a big, structured effort that exudes black fruits, mineral, pepper and underbrush. Still not in bottle, it is inky colored, with a big mid-palate, ripe tannin and serious richness. Drink Chateau Pegau Cuvee Setier The 2012 Chateau Pegau Cotes du Rhone Village Cuvee Setier (60% Grenache, (88-90) pts. 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, aged all in enamel tanks) is slightly more fresh and focused, with medium-bodied richness, loads of cracked pepper, black fruits and herbs aromas and flavors, and chewy tannin on the finish. It too has outstanding potential and should have upward of a decade of longevity. Drink Chateau Pegau Cuvee Lone 87 pts. A blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Bourboulenc, 20% Grenache Blanc and 10% Ugni Blanc, the 2012 Chateau Pegau Cotes du Rhone Blanc Cuvee Lone is a lively, fresh and citrus-laced effort that gives up medium-bodied richness and a clean finish. A perfect midweek drinker, it should be consumed over the coming couple or years. Drink now Pink Pégau 88 pts. A new wine and a fresh, lively and certainly delicious rosé, the 2012 Pink Pégau Rosé dishes out plenty of red berry fruit and mineral in a medium-bodied, juicy package. It s worth checking out. Drink now.

WA #209, October 2013 2010 Sélection Laurence Féraud Gigondas The 2010 Selection Laurence Feraud Gigondas (65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre) offers 90 pts.

4 WA #209, October Sélection Laurence Féraud Gigondas The 2010 Selection Laurence Feraud Gigondas (65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre) offers 90 pts. up classic Gigondas spice and cedar to go with a core of dark fruits, saddle leather and garrigue. A medium to full-bodied effort that will flesh out with another year in bottle, it has outstanding character and will have upward of a decade of longevity. Drink Sélection Laurence Féraud Chateauneuf du Pape Richer, as well as more aromatic, the 2010 Selection Laurence Feraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape (70% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the balance other permitted varieties) dishes out loads of spice 91 pts. and herbs laced black fruits, saddle leather and background meatiness to go with a rich, medium to full-bodied texture. Relatively approachable, it will have over a decade of longevity. Drink Sélection Laurence Féraud Chateauneuf du Pape Almost as good and along the same lines, the traditionally made 2011 Selection Laurence Feraud Chateauneuf du Pape gives up complex, perfumed notes of garrigue, exotic wood, spice and background 90 pts. meatiness with a medium to full-bodied, savory and chewy feel on the palate. This puppy is loaded with Provencal charm and should drink nicely for another 6-7 years. Drink now Sélection Laurence Féraud Cotes du Rhone...a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, the 2011 Selection Laurence Feraud Cotes du Rhone is 88 pts. deliciously Provencal, with plenty of pepper, mulled red fruits, tobacco and spice as well as a mediumbodied, supple profile on the palate. It is a solid drinker that s well worth a look Sélection Laurence Féraud Plan Pegau Lot #2011 The non-vintage Plan Pegau Lot #2011 comes from a number of regions throughout the Southern Rhone. 86 pts. Always a delicious wine, the 2011 has plenty of meaty black fruits, herbs and leather as well as mediumbodied richness and depth on the palate. It s a perfect mid-week quaffer that has plenty of character. Drink now-2016.

WA #209, October 2013 2012 Commanderie de la Bargemone Blanc Provence producer, these wines are made by Mathieu Kasdi. Starting 88 pts.

5 WA #209, October Commanderie de la Bargemone Blanc Provence producer, these wines are made by Mathieu Kasdi. Starting 88 pts. Aoutleading the whites, the 2012 Coteaux d Aix-en-Provence Blanc (a blend of Vermentino, Sauvignon and Grenache Blanc) is a crisp, aromatic white that offers lively citrus and honeydew aromas and flavors as well as a light, lively profile on the palate. Juicy, refreshing and easydrinking, enjoy this deliciously quaffable white over the coming year. Drink now Commanderie de la Bargemone Cuvee Marina Blanc better, and offering up plenty of citrus, tangerine and assorted green fruits, 89 pts. Even the 2012 Coteaux d Aix-en-Provence Blanc Cuvee Marina is racy and zesty on the finish, with vibrant acidity, solid fruit and a clean, dry finish. Pair this beauty with seafood over the coming year and count yourself lucky. Drink now Commanderie de la Bargemone Cuvee Marina Rosé more than noteworthy, the 2012 Coteaux d Aix-en-Provence Rose Cuvee 88 pts. Also Marina is a great, Provencal rose that gives up lovely orange blossom, rose petal and melon-styled aromas and flavors that flow to a crisp, dry palate feel. Straight-up delicious, enjoy this beauty over the coming year. Drink now Commanderie de la Bargemone Cuvee Marina Rouge red, the 2009 Coteaux d Aix-en-Provence Rouge Cuvee Marina offers 90 pts. Anup impressive plenty of cassis, lead pencil shavings, cigar-box and licorice to go with a full- bodied, rich and beautifully texture mouth feel. A blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Grenache that spent 12 months in new French oak, it opens up nicely with air and should hit prime time in another year or three. Drink

WA #209, October 2013 2012 Domaine le Pive Sable de Camargue Blanc 89 pts.

6 WA #209, October Domaine le Pive Sable de Camargue Blanc 89 pts. A beautifully refreshing blend of Viognier, Sauvignon and Roussanne, the 2012 Sable De Camargue Blanc is loaded with fresh white peach, apricot and honey blossom on the nose and plate. Medium-bodied, light, clean and juicy, this knockout white is not only hard to resist on its own, but it will also be versatile on the dinner table. Drink now Domaine le Pive Sable de Camargue Rosé 88 pts. An impressive dry, Provencal-styled rose, the 2012 Sable De Camargue Gris is made from 30% Grenache Gris, 30% Grenache, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Loaded with notions of orange rind, melon and citrus, this juicy, lively effort has plenty of acidity and a clean, dry finish that s perfect for a hot summer day. It s a solid value worth seeking out. Drink now Cave les Coteaux du Rhone Arbouse 90 pts. Also rock-solid, the 2012 Cotes du Rhone Villages Massif D-Uchaux Arbouse checks in as a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan that sees no oak. Deeply colored, it offers smoky black cherry, new leather, bouquet garni and earthy qualities to go with a medium-bodied, beautifully pure and lively feel on the palate. Up-front and easy-drinking, it has solid mid-palate depth and rock-solid balance. It, too, is a solid value and will drink nicely for 4-5 years. Drink now Cave les Coteaux du Rhone Cotes du Rhone Tradition 88 pts. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 10% Mourvedre aged all in tank, the 2011 Cotes du Rhone Tradition is a classic, complex Southern Rhone that has loads of sweet cherry fruit, garrigue, spice and red licorice aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, lightly textured and deliciously up-front and drinkable, it-s a superb value geared for drinking over the coming couple of years. Drink now-2017.

Rating: 96 Drink Rating: 96 Drink Rating: 95+ Drink Review by Jeb Dunnuck erobertparker.com #219 (June 2015)

Rating: 96 Drink Rating: 96 Drink Rating: 95+ Drink Review by Jeb Dunnuck erobertparker.com #219 (June 2015) Review by Jeb Dunnuck erobertparker.com #219 (June 2015) The team at DeLille, lead by longtime Washington wine steward Chris Upchurch, continue to produce and a great lineup of wines. Both the '12 and