Paul Vossen. University of California Cooperative Extension Sonoma County 133 Aviation Blvd. # 109 Santa Rosa, CA

Transcription

1 Paul Vossen University of California Cooperative Extension Sonoma County 133 Aviation Blvd. # 109 Santa Rosa, CA pmvossen@ucdavis.edu

2 California

3 Olive Oil Sensory Experience Founder of COOC 1991 Started CA Taste Panel 1996 Developed Protocol for LA Fair 2000 Taste Panel Recognized by IOOC 2001 Taste Panel Controlled by COOC 2005 Founded UCCE Research Panel in 2005 Taught Many Sensory Courses International Judge in Spain, Italy, Argentina, and Morocco Helped Establish UCD Olive Center and Taste Panel Worked with USDA and IOC to Establish USA Olive Oil Standards

4 SENSORY ANALYSIS APPLIED TO VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Panelists selected by threshold testing Panelists trained by the panel head Arrangement Test Panel recognized by IOOC in 2001

5 IOC Profile Sheet

6 Importance of Olive Oil Sensory Quality New Industry Varieties, harvest maturity, avoid defects Differentiate Imports, bulk, boutique, justify price differences Research Mechanical harvest, olive fly, terroir,, irrigation Yolo Premium Winners

7 Very few defective oils

8 UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted Overall Quality Average Balance Average Complexity Average Aroma Intensity Average Total Flavor Intensity Average Fruit Intensity Average Bitterness Average Pungency Average Sweetness Average Astringency Average Intensity

9 Wood/hay/straw Other Olive Oil Flavor Characteristics UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted Floral Buttery Tropical Banana Other Green Olive Fruit Grass (fresh Cut) Artichoke Herbaceous Green Apple Green Banana Green Tea Mint Eucalyptus Tomato Leaf Spice "allspice/cinnamon" Specific Flavor Characteristics Ripe Fruit Green Fruit Ripe Olive Fruit Other Ripe Fruit Nutty Flavor Strength Intense Medium Mild

10 10-point profile sheet

11 First 9 Points

12 Taste Oil # 1

13 Point by Point 1. Aroma Intensity: Positive or Negative (#) 2. Bitterness: Dull sensation back of tongue 3. Pungency: Harsh sensation throat 4. Fruit Intensity: Fruity green or ripe 5. Total Flavor: Overall B-P-F 6. Sweetness: Olive oil sweetness not sugar 7. Astringency: Dry moisture pulling sensation 8. Texture: Thickness of the oil (mouth feel) 9. Greasiness: Slimy feel in mouth and lips

14 Olfactory Smell-Aroma Olfactory bulb Receives nerve signal Olfactory nerves Elongated epithelium cells Neurons Protected by a layer of mucus

15 Taste Tongue + Oral Cavity Sweet Sour Salty Bitter Umami (MSG) Savory

16 Tongue Papillae Mouth Throat Taste Anatomy Pungent Taste receptor mechanism (+) and (-) charges molecular receptors

17 Bitterness (harsh, dull-stinging)

18 Pungency (burning, coughing, hot chili pepper, irritation) pungent

19 Fruit Intensity (#)

20 Retronasal Influence Aroma sensation of volatile compounds through the nose (a) Retronasal perceived through the back of the throat (b) Olfactory Epithelium Flavor combined sensation of taste, smell, and irritation through the nose mouth, and throat Tongue Throat

21 Sweetness Astringency Texture Greasiness

22 Defect Section

23 Fruitiness (Ripe Green)

24 Fruitiness (Ripe Fruit) apple, berry, tropical, peach, etc.

25 Fruitiness (Green) herb, grass, tomato leaf, mint, tea, eucalyptus, nettle, cinnamon, spice, etc.

26 Last 5 Points

27 Point by Point 12. Complexity: Number of flavors 13. Balance: Harmony of F-B-P (ratio) 14. Freshness: Zing, crisp, sharp, new 15. Overall Quality: Poor to excellent

28 The Perfect Olive Oil Fruitiness - very high (10) Bitterness - medium low (1-5) Pungency - medium (1-7) Complex (many different flavors - both green and ripe (10) Intense aroma very high (10) Fresh very high (10) Keeps a long time Great color Balanced (10) On a 10-point scale

29 Arbequina

30 Great Blending Oil Adds Fruitiness Mellows Arbequina + Picual + Coratina + Koroneiki + Arbosana + Mission + Chetui + Frantoio Aromatic, nutty, buttery, fruity, sweet, artichoke, ripe apple, almond

31 Tasting the 2nd Oil

32 Cultivar Selection 1. Lowering Cost Over-the the-row harvest Trunk shaker harvest 150 varieties = 90% 3 varieties = 50% 2. Production Yield oil/ha Alternate bearing Cold hardiness Disease resistance 3. Marketing Flavor Stability Rarity

33 Ascolana Unique Flavors Sevillano Hojiblanca Arauco Picual Chetui

34 Leccino Coratina Bosana Traditional Flavors Nocellara del Belice Frantoio Taggiasca

35 Chemlali Kalamon Koroneiki Picholine Marocaine Wonderful Flavors Ayvalik Bouteillan Picholine

36 Olive Oil Styles in CA Mission - Late Harvest - Ripe Manzanillo - Green or Ripe Sevillano Green nutty - herb Ascolano Ripe and Green New World Tuscan - Green Arbequina mild nutty, butter Koroneiki very fruity Arbosana green grassy Flavored oils

37 Mission (Picholine( Marrocaine) Late Ripening High yield Alternate bearing Very large fruit Easy to harvest Bad foliar disease High oil content Very Cold hardy Pineapple to harsh green tea flavor

38 Taste the 3rd Oil

39 Amphora Mission 2011 Mid Season Harvest (Nov 25 CA) Balanced Mission Green & Ripe

40 Taste Oils 4-5-6

41 Koroneiki (May Chile) # 4 Later Harvest - ripe FFA: 0.16 PV: 4.7 K-232: 0.89 K-270: DAG: 94.8 PPP: 0.4 C18:1: 80.0 Poly: 450

42 #5 California Koroneiki harvested November 5, 2012

43 Good Blending Oil Adds Fruitiness Stability #6 Koroneiki + Arbequina + Manzanilla + Arbosana + Mission + Barnea + Frantoio Aromatic, bitter, tropical pungent, herbaceous, green tea, fruity, ripe banana, complex...

44 Early Harvest Can be Rough Astringent Strongly Bitter Strongly Pungent Ligneous Strong Green Tea High Polyphenols

45 Intermediate Harvest Balanced Sweet & Astringent Bitter Pungent Ripe & Green Floral Medium Polyphenols

46 Late Harvest Can be Bland Sweet Non Bitter Non Pungent Ripe Fruity Tropical Low Polyphenols

47 Good olive oil can be made just about anywhere Bad olive oil can be made anywhere

48 Revised Olive Production Manual University of California # 3353 Climate & Site Selection Botany Cultivars Physiology Pruning Irrigation Nutrition Pests Harvest Paul Vossen

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