Welcome to The Society s The Wines of Chile tasting.
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- Alvin Kennedy
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1 Welcome to The Society s The Wines of Chile tasting. 3,000 miles long and, on average 109 miles wide with the Atacama Desert to the north, Antarctica to the south, the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes to the east, Chile encompasses a quite dazzling range of climates and geology. For wine lovers, this makes it a uniquely exciting prospect. The country has a proven track record with Bordeaux grapes, with bold Chilean cabernet and merlot attracting international acclaim for over 20 years, and Chile has also adopted carmenère as its signature grape variety, earning a name for voluptuously fruity and rich reds. But with such varied soils and altitudes and excellent grape growing conditions, Chile also produces highquality syrah, grenache and pinot noir as well as cool-climate whites ranging from complex chardonnays to delicate rieslings. The Society s sweetness code: White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9] = white wine = red wine S = screwcap closure P = synthetic closure Concha y Toro Concha y Toro was founded in 1883 by Don Melchor Concha y Toro and his wife Emiliana Subercaseaux when they brought over Bordeaux varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, semillon and carmenère to start their vineyards in Pirque, Chile. Over the last 130 years, Concha y Toro has expanded to become the largest wine producer in South America and one of the largest in the world with over 9,500 hectares under vine throughout Chile and Argentina as well as a further 429 hectares in Mendocino County, California. 1. [2] The Society s Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay 2017 Limarí s cool climate and soils high in limestone produce a taut, firm style of chardonnay. Some barrel fermentation in mostly first and second-use barrels opens up the aromas without masking minerality. Drink now until % ref CE bottle 119 dozen The Limarí Valley is located 290 miles north of the capital, Santiago, and is seen as both an old and a new winemaking region. Vines were first planted in the 16th Century but vast improvements in winemaking technology and understanding has led to a resurgence for the Valley.
2 The Camanchaca (a morning fog) sweeps in from the Pacific Ocean and sits over the vines until the sun rises over the Andes Mountains to the east at midday, allowing for a slower ripening of the grapes. This, in turn, helps maintain acidity and purity of fruit. The Limarí Valley is an arid area, experiencing only around four inches of rainfall per year meaning drip-irrigation is essential. This causes the roots to run deep into the mineral-rich soils, giving the wines produced here a distinct mineral edge. 2. Concha y Toro Corte Marcelo Limarí Pinot Noir 2016 Bright, fine-flavoured pinot which is more mineral than fruity. It is a bit more serious and stands up to food better than the fruit bomb styles. Drink now until % ref CE bottle 102 dozen 3. The Society s Chilean Merlot, Rapel 2016 High-quality plum and cedar-scented merlot aged in barrel to round out the edges. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 81 dozen The Rapel Valley, to the south of Maipo Valley and to the north of Curico, covers just over a quarter of all the Chilean vineyards. The region overall is hotter than Maule further south as the Valley is flanked on both sides by mountain ranges the Andes and the Coastal Range. Colchagua Valley s (a sub-region of the Rapel Valley) vineyards are concentrated in the west of the valley, where cooling Pacific Ocean influences give the grapes and consequently the wines more elegance with balanced fruit and structured acidity. 4. The Society s Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo was a ripe vintage and this is mid to full-bodied cabernet but still with an attractive cedary top note to the blackcurrant-fruit flavour.drink now to % ref CE bottle 83 dozen 5. The Society s Exhibition Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Fine, cedary Chilean cabernet made exclusively for us by the talented Ignacio Recabarren. This comes from excellent vineyards in two of the best Alto Maipo communes, Pirque and Tocornal. Ageing in barrel has softened the tannins and developed the aromas. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 162 dozen The Alto Maipo is situated in the Andean foothills around 1,300 to 2,600 feet above sea level. These vineyards benefit from afternoon sunshine and cool night-time temperatures which ensure long slow ripening, essential for high-quality wine production.
3 6. Concha y Toro Terrunyo Lot 1 Casablanca Merlot 2014 Lovely cedar-scented, plum-and-spice flavoured Chilean merlot from a warm spot in the cool Casablanca valley, ideally suited to merlot. 5% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon contribute a little extra complexity. Drink now until % ref CE bottle 264 dozen Located 75km north-west of Santiago, Casablanca valley was Chile s first cool-climate coastal region, planted with vines in the mid-1980s. Situated within the D.O. of Aconcagua, Casablanca has a cool Mediterranean climate with a pronounced maritime influence and receives 540mm of rain each year. The proximity to the ocean creates cool foggy mornings ideal for top-quality red and white wines which are mostly grown on clay and sandy soils. 7. Cono Sur Silencio Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2011 Fine, cedar-scented Chilean cabernet sauvignon. Rich yet elegant with many textures and layers of fruit, and a long finish. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 744 dozen Viña Koyle Viña Koyle is a new project from the Undurraga family, who have sold the company that bears their name and bought an estate near Los Lingues, in Alto Colchagua to make, principally, fine red wines. They now have a total of 80 hectares which includes 13 different varieties planted on red clay over friable granite soils. The entire vineyard is currently going through bio-dynamic transformation, a process that takes at least three years. 8. [2] Koyle Costa Cuarzo Rapel Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Bright, crystalline sauvignon blanc from a cool spot near the coast resulting in lovely blackcurrant-leaf aromas and a fresh, fruity palate. Drink now until % S ref CE bottle 99 dozen Mainly due to its relative isolation, dry soils and dependence on flood irrigation, Chile s wine industry was unaffected by the Phylloxera virus during the 19th century. However, the exact reason for Chile s escape is still a mystery. Whilst Phylloxera isn t a problem, wine makers do need to keep an eye on other vineyard pests such as nematodes (parasitic worms) and downy mildew which is spread easily by the El Nino, a band of warm ocean temperatures that affect the Pacific coast of South America.
4 9. Koyle Costa Rapel Coastal Pinot Noir 2015 Restrained, fine-flavoured pinot from a coolish vintage with less overt fruit and more freshness and grip than is usual in Chile. Drink now until % ref CE bottle 131 dozen 10. Koyle El Peuco Alto Colchagua Tempranillo-Mourvèdre 2014 The El Peuco of the name is a Harris hawk and the Koyle estate is home to a pair. This wine displays an intense and attractive intermingling of sweet oak and spicy fruit, with a soft and velvety palate after an extended ageing of 18 months before bottling. Drink now until % ref CE bottle 138 dozen Colchagua is located 110 miles south of Santiago in the southernmost part of the Rapel Valley, and is one of Chile s most celebrated wine regions specialising in full bodied wines made from cabernet sauvignon, carmenère, syrah and malbec. The majority of the wineries are located in the centre of the valley, but wine makers have started to expand and experiment using the valley hills on either side. 11. The Society s Exhibition Colchagua Carmenère 2016 Made for us by Koyle from a cooler hillside vineyard in Alto Colchagua, this is an intensely flavoured wine with a ripe yet fresh palate of black fruit, with notes of clove and black pepper. Matured in barrels for about 18 months is Koyle s best vintage so far. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 143 dozen 12. Koyle Cerro Basalto Alto Colchagua 2014 From the Cerro Basalto hillside vineyard this blend comprises monastrell (aka mourvèdre), garnacha, cariñena and syrah, and is aged for two years in barrels. A rich, savoury and structured wine, scented with black olives, leather and herbs. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 204 dozen Maycas del Limarí Maycas del Limarí is a project of premium wines based in the Limarí valley under the umbrella of Concha y Toro with winemaker Marcelo Papa firmly at the helm since In the same year, Marcelo was presented with Chilean wine s highest honour of Winemaker of the Year, thanks to his ability to produce wines of exceptional quality that showcase not only the grape variety s natural charm, but also that of the terroir it is grown in. This ability is something he has also achieved with Maycas del Limarí and it shows in the quality of the wines.
5 13. [2] Maycas del Limarí Quebrada Seca Chardonnay 2014 Quebrada Seca, about 25km from the coast on the northern bank of the Limarí River, is a cool spot with a high limestone content in the soil and is producing the best chardonnay in the area. Barrel fermented with mainly used barrels, this is very fine and mineral, and improves with age. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 264 dozen 14. Maycas del Limarí Pinot Noir Reserva Especial 2016 This is Maycas best vintage of this wine so far was a cool year and there was 15% wholebunch fermentation to contribute freshness. Lovely pinot from the cool Limarí region, where clay and limestone soils produce a wine with more structure and a longer mid-palate than many of the other coastal regions of Chile. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 167 dozen For most red wines, the first stage of winemaking is to separate the grape berries from the stems. Not destemming, and using the whole bunches with the stems in the fermentation used to be considered old-fashioned and was deemed to give greenness and rusticity to many red Burgundies. With global warming, the stems are more often riper than they used to be and so, when it s good, whole bunch fermentation gives fragrance and perfume, and adds a bit of strength and firmness to the tannins. Matetic The Matetic family are of Croatian origin and arrived in Chile over 100 years ago. In 1998 the family launched a new venture in the form of Matetic Wines in the Rosario Valley, an offshoot of the San Antonio Valley. Here they planted in a cool-climate area of well-drained, low-vigour soils some 18km from the cooling sea. The Matetic methodology is focused on the natural environment, even down to the native alpacas used to graze between the vines to keep down competing vegetation. All the grapes are picked by hand and sorted again at the winery to ensure that only excellent, healthy fruit is vinified and they have established an enviable reputation for both their ecological credentials and the quality of the wine; in particular through their premium wines under the EQ label. The EQ stands for equilibrium and represents the harmony that can be achieved between soil, climate and vine and this is an ethos that the company has adhered to in all its endeavours. 15. [2] Matetic Corralillo Casablanca Valley Riesling 2016 With a well-balanced, round and yet fresh palate, this is a delicious, ripe and peachy Chilean riesling. Drink this year and next. 13.5% S ref CE bottle 107 dozen 2017 vintage to follow
6 Riesling (pronounced reece-ling) could claim to be the finest white grape variety in the world on the basis of the longevity of its wines. After suffering a drop in popularity during the late 20th century, due to often high levels of residual sugar, dry riesling is hugely fashionable once again. Alsace producers would claim to be the masters of this style but many cool-climate Australian and South American producers are giving them a run for their money. 16. [2] Matetic Corralillo San Antonio Gewürztraminer 2017 An intense, concentrated yet fine-flavoured wine, the result of low yields and a cool climate. With an intense rose-petal perfume, this is dry and refreshing. Drink now to % S ref CE bottle 107 dozen 2018 vintage to follow 17. Matetic EQ Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir 2014 From an excellent Chilean estate comes this fine black-cherry-fruited pinot noir, with a taut and fresh palate. Recommended. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 204 dozen Tabalí Founded in 1993 in the northern Limarí Valley, Tabalí make good use of their closeness to the Atacama Desert, the proximity of the Pacific Ocean and the ideal climate and terroir of their vineyards to produce exceptional premium and super premium wines. It is this expression of the distinct regional characteristics that make Tabalí one of the most celebrated wineries in Chile. 18. [2] The Society s Chilean Limarí Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Crisp sauvignon blanc with blackcurrant-leaf aromas and a refreshing palate from cool vineyards in Limarí. Drink this year and next. 13.5% S ref CE bottle 93 dozen 19. [2] Silbador Valle Central Chardonnay 2017 A fresh but rounded unoaked Valle Central chardonnay, offering fruity melony fruit flavours. Drink this year and next. 12.5% S ref CE bottle 81 dozen Emiliana was founded in 1986 by the inspirational and eco-friendly brothers Rafael & Jose Guilisasti with the dream of creating a 100% organic & bio-dynamic winery. To do this, they brought in bio-dynamic expert Alvaro Espinoza and they now have one of the largest biodynamic vineyards in the world. Their Silbador range is so called because of the insect-eating silbador bird that populates the vineyard and helps to maintain the balanced eco-system.
7 20. [2] Talinay Limarí Coastal Limestone Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 Taut, firm fresh Chilean chardonnay from a special vineyard just 12km from the sea with a high limestone content producing a long, linear mineral style. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 174 dozen Very low stock 21. Tabalí Vetas Blancas Cabernet Franc 2015 Fine, pretty, cedary Chilean cabernet franc from Tabalí s excellent Espinal vineyard, aged in barrels for about a year. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 150 dozen There are many factors that contribute to Chile being such a successful wine producing region. From the soil to the ideal Mediterranean climate providing the warm, dry summers and cold, rainy winters that vines love. The main influence on this, however, is the impact of the Pacific currents and in particular the Humboldt Current flowing from Antarctica up the western coast of South America. The cool air is partially blocked by the coastal mountains but can follow the rivers inland. This, combined with the cold air descending from the Andes provides perfect temperatures and one of the main reasons for Chile being a viticultural paradise. Undurraga Undurraga has two winemaking cellars, with a total capacity of an incredible 23,000,000 litres. One is located at Quinta de Tilcoco and the other on the Santa Ana Estate in Talagante. They both contain modern facilities which is where the fermentation, processing, and bottling processes still take place. However, despite their ultra-modern winery, they still use their cool, antique underground cellars, dating back to the 19th Century that provide the perfect environment for ageing their Reserva wines. 22. [2] Undurraga Finca Las Lomas Leyda Sauvignon Blanc 2017 The cool coastal Leyda region produces zesty sauvignon blanc which is bright and fresh, and this is an excellent example from Undurraga s own estate. This was a blend we made with their gifted chief winemaker, Rafael Urrejola. Drink now to % S ref CE bottle 95 dozen The Leyda Valley is located just seven kilometres from the coast, south west of Santiago. It enjoys a cool climate with the average temperature during the hottest month around 25 C allowing for the grapes to ripen slowly for ideal aromas and balance. 23. [2] Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Maule Viognier-Roussanne-Marsanne 2017
8 The third and best vintage of this wine so far. The blend of 50% viognier, 40% roussanne and 10% marsanne is ideally balanced. Viognier supplies peachy perfume and caressing texture while the roussanne and marsanne provide structure, lift and extra aromatic complexity. Drink now to % S ref CE bottle 93 dozen 24. The Society s Chilean Pinot Noir, Leyda 2017 Fresh and fragrant, black fruit-scented pinot from the cool Leyda Valley. Part oak-matured to soften the tannins and develop the aromas. Drink now to % S ref CE bottle 99 dozen 25. Undurraga Candelabro Carmenère 2017 Carmenère needs heat to fully mature and so the warm 2017 vintage produced a full and ripe wine with a soft and generous palate. It comes from the warm Cauquenes area. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 93 dozen Originally from the Médoc region of Bordeaux, carmenère has truly found its home in Chile after it disappeared from Europe in the late 19th Century only to be found field planted amongst the merlot grapes in Chile where they were originally thought to be one and the same. A notoriously late ripener, carmenère often produces deep purple wines with touches of spice and ripe bramble fruit. 26. Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Carignan 2016 A ripe black-fruit scented Chilean carignan which nevertheless maintains a wonderful freshness and firmness on the palate. This is ideal with the flavoursome fatty cuts of oxtail, shoulder of lamb or pork. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 107 dozen 27. Undurraga Cauquenes Estate Grenache-Syrah 2016 A new blend of mostly grenache for roundness with a dab of syrah giving lift and a perfume of black fruit and spice. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 107 dozen 28. Undurraga Altazor Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Altazor is Undurraga s top cabernet. It comes from vineyards in the Upper Maipo, where cabernet is firm and savoury with structure to the fore was a cooler year with fine cedary flavours and a firm, linear palate of excellent length of flavour. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 312 dozen Veramonte
9 Veramonte was founded by Agustin Huneeus who, in 1960, became the chief executive officer of Concha y Toro which was a small winery at the time. Under his leadership, Concha y Toro became Chile s largest winery. With a winemaking career spanning over half a century, Agustin founded Veramonte in the early 1990s with the goal of producing premium Chilean wines that reflect the country s terroir. Veramonte is also run by Agustin F. Huneeus (President), Daniel Vicuña (General Manager) and Rodrigo Soto (Chief Winemaker). 29. Ritual Casablanca Merlot 2015 From a warm spot in the cool Casablanca Valley, ideal for merlot, this is a plum and red-cherry flavoured wine with a cedary top note. Aged for ten months in barrels to polish the tannins to a silky sweetness. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 150 dozen 30. Primus The Blend 2014 With a lovely, complex mix of cedar, spice and black fruits, this well-balanced blend comprises cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carmenère, petit verdot and a small amount of cabernet franc, matured for about a year in barrel. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 143 dozen 31. Neyen Apalta 2013 The 2013 vintage was a cool year. This wine derives its sensual black-fruited palate from 55% carmenère, planted in the 1950s, and its structure and freshness from 45% cabernet sauvignon planted in the 1890s. It was aged for 12 months in 225-litre French oak barrels then finished in 3,000-litre foudres for six months. Drink now to % ref CE bottle 408 dozen Now owned by Veramonte, Neyen is a 20 hectare property in Apalta, a south-facing (the cooler exposition in the Southern hemisphere) horseshoe-shaped enclave of the warm Cachapoal Valley. Apalta is notable for a number of old, unirrigated vineyards, planted on maicillo soils (decomposed granite). Neyen have cabernet sauvignon vineyards planted in 1890, and carmenère from the 1950s.
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