Sapogel Q Palm Free Balm Textures

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Karen Pope
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1 Sapogel Q Palm Free Balm Textures

Extract Sapogel is a liquid blend that allows the formulator to make

2 Sapogel Q Balm textures using Saponins INCI: Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract Sapogel is a liquid blend that allows the formulator to make stable, translucent, rich balms with the texture of lanolin or petroleum jelly.

are thought to have many health benefits in terms of reduction of cholesterol and anti-oxidant properties. Typical structure of a saponin.

3 What are Saponins? The term Saponin derives from the Latin Sapo meaning Soap Saponins are found naturally in many different plants such as beans, chick peas, quinoa, oats and soy and are thought to have many health benefits in terms of reduction of cholesterol and anti-oxidant properties. Typical structure of a saponin. The hydrophilic part with many hydroxyl groups can clearly be identified, and a hydrophobic part. There are around 12 types of saponin that have been identified, but there are thought to be many that have not been isolated or characterised. The complex mixture gives saponins their unique stabilising ability. Hydrophilic part Hydrophobic part

are systematically pruned to achieve large amounts of biomass the whole plant is

The Quillaja is classed as wild harvested.

4 Quillaja Saponins A sustainable story.. Quillaja trees grow in a managed plantation in Chile consisting of trees that are systematically pruned to achieve large amounts of biomass the whole plant is used in the extraction of Quillaja Saponins. The Quillaja is classed as wild harvested. The extraction factory is environmentally optimised and has won awards for this. New trees are constantly planted as they take 15 years to achieve maturity. Prunings are taken from the mature trees.

5 Quillaja Saponins Extraction Process: Prunings from the mature trees on the plantation Biomass soaked in hot water to extract saponins Biomass burnt to heat water Filtration, pasteurisation Spray drying finished product Drying of Biomass

Soapwort Saponins Soapwort is a common hardy flowering plant that grows

millennia for personal washing and washing clothing.

The saponins in Soapwort are very gentle and suitable for sensitive skin

6 Soapwort Saponins Soapwort is a common hardy flowering plant that grows in many regions of the world and has been widely used by mankind for millennia for personal washing and washing clothing. It was grown by Romans and planted around Roman baths. The saponins in Soapwort are very gentle and suitable for sensitive skin and babies. The soapwort used in Sapogel Q is wild harvested and both roots and leaves are extracted for the saponins.

7 Features of Sapogel Q Balms All natural formulations possible Safe, mild, food grade materials used No palm derived components Variable textures possible from honey to thick balms Wide range of oils can be gelled but particularly suitable for vegetable oils Cold Process manufacturing

8 Typical Simple Formula Phase A Sapogel 20%* Phase B Oil (Veg Oil, ester, silicone) 80% Phase C Other additives (perfume, colour etc.) qs *Average Amount. 15% = firm balm, 25% = Honey texture. *Texture and Viscosity are highly dependent on the oil used.

SAPOGEL : MAKING A GEL Method 1 2 3 Weigh out

propeller blade and set to high speed (1000

9 SAPOGEL : MAKING A GEL Method Weigh out Sapogel into a suitable beaker and oil into a separate beaker. If solids are used in the oil phase these need to be melted. Transfer onto an overhead mixer fitted with propeller blade and set to high speed (1000 rpm) Start stirring and add oil very slowly dropwise for first 10% of the oil Continue adding oil in portions, allowing gel to reform between additions. Mixture will thicken rapidly A firm gel or balm is formed.

Viscosities and Texture Different viscosities and texture can be achieved depending on level of Sapogel used: Oil Used Viscosity (Spindle 94, sp 10) 20% 25%

10 Viscosities and Texture Different viscosities and texture can be achieved depending on level of Sapogel used: Oil Used Viscosity (Spindle 94, sp 10) 20% 25% Sunflower Olive Rapeseed Fractionated Coconut Squalane All samples above were stable at 50 C for 3 months

They were removed for 24 hours and allowed to thaw to 20 C.

11 Superior Stability of Sapogel Q Gels Heat Stability Gels stored at 50 C for 3 months: Full stability for duration of test Freeze / Thaw Gels were placed in a domestic freezer (ca. 10 C) for 24 hours. They were removed for 24 hours and allowed to thaw to 20 C. Above repeated 3 times: Full stability for duration of test Acids / Bases Citric Acid solution and Sodium Hydroxide solution were added to gels and no adverse effects were seen.

12 Addition of other ingredients Glycerine Thins down the gel (useful for 15% gels) Gives a flowable, honey like texture Water Up to 4% can be used. Thins down the gel and gives it an opaque appearance. Can make concentrated serums etc. Powders / Exfoliators Easily dispersed in the gel. Acidic / alkaline exfoliators can also be used.

13 SEM Images of Various Oil Gels Sapogel Q: Layered structure, no individual oil droplets visible Sucragel: Small oil droplets, uniform size HIPEgel Oleo: Larger oil droplets, greater size distribution

14 Sapogel Lamellar Structure Theory

15 Comparison of Sapogel, Sucragel & HIPEgel Oleo

12 Hour Cream Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 5.

16 12 Hour Cream Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 5.0 B Fractionated Coconut Oil Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 50 B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 24.5 C Mango Lip Code Fragrance Fragrance 0.3 C FD & C Red 2 CI C FD & C Yellow 6 CI Method: Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70 C until all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to room temperature and add Phase C. 20

17 Rose Lip Mask A long lasting balm that can be applied to lips at night and leave them moisturised in the morning. Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil C Rose Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens Oil 0.5 C FD & C Red 5 CI Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.

Vanilla Body Balm Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

18 Vanilla Body Balm Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 40.0 B Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 2.5 B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B C Fractionated Coconut Oil Vanilla Spice Fragrance Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 22.5 Fragrance 0.1 Method: Weigh out Sapogel Q (Phase A) into one beaker. Weigh out Phase B and heat to approx. 70 C until all components have melted. Add Phase B very slowly to Phase A until a thick gel is formed. Cool to room temperature and add Phase C.

19 Black Lava Sand Scrub A stimulating scrub with black lava particles and essential oils. Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Sapogel Q Glycerin & Aqua & Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract & Saponaria Officinalis (Soapwort) Extract B Fractionated Coconut Oil 25.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 70.5 C Tea Tree Essential Oil Melaleuca Alternafolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil 0.5 C Juniper Essential Oil Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil 0.5 C C Volcanic Sand Exfoliator 300 FD & C Blue 1 & Yellow 6 Volcanic Sand 3.0 CI 42090, CI Weigh Sapogel into a suitable beaker and Phase B in another beaker. Slowly incorporate Phase B into Sapogel. Then add Phase C.

20 Applications Lipbalms Balm Cleansers Body Balms Scrubs, including salt/sugar Face masks Concentrated skin serums / creams Hair / Beard Balms

21 Thankyou!

HOME THISTLE FARMS PRODUCTS ARE NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS

HOME THISTLE FARMS PRODUCTS ARE NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS THISTLE FARMS PRODUCTS ARE NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS HOME ROOM SPRAY Citrus Wood: Water (Aqua), Artisan Blend Alcohol, Cedrus Atlantica (Cedarwood Atlas) Bark Oil, Cinnamomum camphora linaloolferum (Ho Wood)