steps among the Davide Mozzone and the next Bongiovanni generation

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Giles Potter
6 years ago
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BONGIOVANNI Davide Mozzone, owner of Bongiovanni, was born at Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the Langhe hills, and grew up on his grandfather s farm ( cascina in Italian; hence the full name

Davide lived and breathed the family tradition, taking his first steps among the Davide Mozzone and the next Bongiovanni generation vineyards and inevitably choosing to become a winemaker.

1 BONGIOVANNI Davide Mozzone, owner of Bongiovanni, was born at Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the Langhe hills, and grew up on his grandfather s farm ( cascina in Italian; hence the full name of the winery). His grandfather s name was Giovanni Bongiovanni, and he founded the estate in At the time, he preferred to sell most of his wine in bulk. Davide lived and breathed the family tradition, taking his first steps among the Davide Mozzone and the next Bongiovanni generation vineyards and inevitably choosing to become a winemaker. In the 1990s, he brought about the winery s turning point: all Bongiovanni wine would be estate-grown and estate-bottled, and vineyard management and winery technology would be avant-garde, albeit respectful of tradition and terroir. This twofold respect was embodied on the labels themselves, in his grandfather s name and the design of a hawk pursued by its shadow, after the place name of the winery: Uccellaccio. The estate now covers 6.2 hectares (15.3 acres) under vine, for a yearly production of 30/35,000 bottles. The Bongiovanni philosophy aims at minimizing outside intervention and maximizing character and goût du terroir, steering clear of stereotyped wines.

2 LANGHE ARNEIS DOC 2007 Locations: Corneliano d Alba and Castellinaldo Variety: Arneis Vineyard surface: 1 hectare (just under 2.5 acres) Exposure: Northeasterly and easterly Average age of vines: 15 years old Density: 4,000 vines per hectare (c. 1,620 per acre) Time of harvest: First week of September Max. crop yield: 9 tons per hectare (3.6 per acre) Matured in: Stainless steel vats Length of maturation: The use of fermentation temperatures close to 17 /18 Celsius (62.6 /64.4 Fahrenheit) prolongs transformation of sugars up to midto late October. The fine lees generated during fermentation are maintained in suspension with the purpose of mellowing flavor and perfectly integrating acidity. Time of bottling: March # of bottles produced: 8,000/10,000 Packaging: Cartons of 12 bottles Food pairings: Excellent as an aperitif or with hors d œuvres Tasting notes: Light straw yellow in color; delicately fruity notes reminiscent of pears, evolving into complex floral aromas with notes of anise; firm, intense flavors with pleasingly fresh, saline finish.

3 DOLCETTO D ALBA DOC 2007 Locations: Monforte d Alba and Castiglione Falletto Variety: Dolcetto d Alba Vineyard surface: 0.8 hectares (1.9 acres) Exposure: Eastern Soil type: Clayey, with a good percentage of sand (35 to 55%), conducive to good hydration. Average age of vines: 10 and 30 years old Density: 4,000 vines per hectare (c. 1,620 per acre) Time of harvest: September 11 th -20 th Max. crop yield: 9 tons per hectare (3.6 per acre) allowed, but actually kept much lower (1.2 tons per acre) by thinning out bunches Matured in: Stainless steel vats Length of maturation: The first 7 months of year following harvest, with careful racking during winter and spring. Micro-oxygenation enhances results of élevage, thus naturally improving color and organoleptic characteristics. Time of bottling: The end of the seventh month/beginning of the eight month of year following harvest. Number of bottles produced: 4,000/4,500 Packaging: Cartons of 12 bottles Food pairings: Cold cuts, salami and first courses Tasting notes: Deep purple in color, with very delicate, elegant floral bouquet reminiscent of violets. Intensely fruity and full, complex, rich, juicy and extracted on the palate, with a characteristic finish of sweet almonds.

4 BARBERA D ALBA DOC 2006 Location: Serralunga d Alba and Monforte Variety: Barbera d Alba Vineyard surface: 0.8 hectares (1.9 acres) Exposure: Easterly Soil type: Clayey Average age of vines: 10 years old Density: 4,000 vines per hectare (c. 1,620 per acre) Time of harvest: September 21 st -30 th Max. crop yield: 10 tons per hectare (4 per acre) allowed, but actually kept much lower by thinning out bunches Matured in: Barriques of French oak (225 liters in capacity) Length of maturation: In years like 2006, when grapes are perfectly healthy, the wine completes alcoholic fermentation in barrique, then undergoes malolactic and bâtonnage. It is barrique-aged for 12 months previous to a further 6 months in stainless steel before release (as of 2002, bottling has taken place the summer of the second year, unfiltered). Time of bottling: The summer of the second year Number of bottles produced: 4,000/5,000 Packaging: Cartons of 12 bottles Food pairings: Extremely mellow and versatile, it is an all-around food wine. Tasting notes: Intense, crimson color, the bouquet shows both Barbera s fruity aromas and the subtle vanillin and toasted notes from fine-tuning in barrique, recalling marasca cherries and cocoa. Good structure sustained by lively freshness; at the same time, delightfully mellow and round, well balanced, with beautifully integrated components.

5 LANGHE ROSSO FALETTO DOC 2006 Location: Serralunga d Alba and Monforte Varieties: This is the estate s only blend a secret one! and follows a formula that varies each year, as Davide orchestrates a given vintage s subtle variations and harmonies. In Davide s own words, Varieties and relative percentages vary each year, with the sole purpose of crafting a wine that is as well balanced, appealing and distinctive as possible. I can tell you the blend comprises both native and international grapes. We set down a working formula of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Barbera, 20% Nebbiolo However, this is no more than a conventional approximation or educated guess! Vineyard surface: 1 hectare (2.471 acres) Exposure: Southwestern Soil type: Mixed clayey-arenaceous Average age of vines: 10 years old Density: 4,000 vines per hectare (c. 1,620 per acre) Time of harvest: September 21 st -30 th and October 11 th -20 th Max. crop yield: 9 tons per hectare (3.6 per acre) allowed; actually kept much lower by thinning out bunches Matured in: French oak barriques (225-liter capacity), partly new, partly used (their respective percentages depend on characteristics of the wine, judged when fermentation is complete), where the distinct varieties are aged separately, then blended. Length of maturation: Approximately 12 to 18 months Time of bottling: The summer of the second year Number of bottles produced: 4,000/5,000 Packaging: Cartons of 6 and 12 bottles Food pairings: Structured first and second courses; ideal with coniglio ai peperoni (rabbit with bell peppers) Tasting notes: Deep purple with mauve reflections, the bouquet is extremely rich and complex; layered palate, showing concentrated fruit with spicy, licorice and cedar notes that linger and metamorphose into goudron and rose petals. In youth, we recognize the dominant notes of sweet bell peppers typical of Cabernet Sauvignon, fine-tuned by élevage in barrique into aromas of black pepper.

BAROLO PERNANNO DOCG 2005 BAROLO DOCG 2005 Location: Castiglione Falletto Variety: Select Nebbiolo, destined for Barolo (in Italian, Nebbiolo per Barolo ) Vineyard surface: 2 hectares (4.

6 BAROLO PERNANNO DOCG 2005 BAROLO DOCG 2005 Location: Castiglione Falletto Variety: Select Nebbiolo, destined for Barolo (in Italian, Nebbiolo per Barolo ) Vineyard surface: 2 hectares (4.9 acres) Exposure: Southeasterly Soil type: Clayey, with a high percentage of silt Average age of vines: 30 years old Density: 4,000/4,500 vines Time of harvest: October 11 th 20 th Max. crop yield: 8 tons per hectare (3.2 per acre) allowed, but actually kept much lower by thinning out bunches Matured in: French oak barriques (225-liter capacity), partly new, partly used: respective percentages of the latter depend on characteristics of the wine, judged when fermentation is complete. Likewise, duration of élevage may vary slightly from year to year, albeit respectful of the minimum set by regulations. Length of maturation: At least 24 months Time of bottling: The summer of the second year after harvest or spring of the third

7 Number of bottles produced: 8,000/10,000 Packaging: Cartons of 6 and 12 bottles Notes on the two Barolos: The 4.9 acres of vineyard surface for Barolo slope down from Bricco Boschis to the bottom of the valley. Bricco (in Piedmontese, the top of a hill) Boschis is close to the castle and historic area of Castiglione, while Pernanno (see photo below) is a plot of land left of the main road to Castiglione itself. Its exposure is southeasterly. Depending on the characteristics of a given year, the climatic conditions, temperatures and amount of rainfall, Davide splits up Barolo production into the two Barolos. The Pernanno vineyard Food pairings: Structured second courses and cheese Tasting notes for the regular Barolo: Deep red with garnet hues; the bouquet is extremely complex still in its youth at present, we find delicate notes of such fruit as raspberries and strawberries, as well as a fresh, minty nuance. The rich anthocyans immediately confirm this is a good year, proferring a firm attack on the palate, much firmer than 2002 and The finish is lovely and lingering, with tannins fully up to their job of prolonging flavors and sensations. Tasting notes for Barolo Pernanno : Very deep garnet red; extremely intense bouquet, albeit reticent to express itself for the first few years (this, in Davide s words, is a characteristic of the Nebbiolo variety hailing from very strong terrain ). Gorgeously structured and velvety, the palate for this 2005 vintage shows an especially blockbuster mix of concentration, roundness and mellow complexity. Succulent flavors of berries, fumé, leather, cassis, mint Promises outstanding longevity.

Fuligni Tuscany, Italy. Empson USA

Fuligni Tuscany, Italy. Empson USA Fuligni Tuscany, Italy Empson USA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO : 100% Sangiovese Grosso from 20-30 year old vines grown at an altitude of 980-1,480 feet above sea level. The grapes are harvested in late September.