2012 Bordeaux Vintage Report

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1 Tuesday, April 16, Bordeaux Vintage Report Anthony Barton commented on his trip up for a Masterclass in Stourbridge back in October last year, that early press coverage condemning the new vintage was damaging and incorrect. He was optimistic that there would be some excellent wines made, though he conceded it would not be up to the levels of the Several other sound bites set a similar viewpoint on the quality we were to expect on our annual en primeur vineyard tasting tour. Unfortunately most of the vintage pre-amble had been centred around the release prices, and particularly the need for them to be significantly reduced beyond those of the 2011 en primeur campaign, which was pretty miserable. I suspect there will be some good news on this front and the early releases will be fascinating to follow. The Style of the Vintage The en primeur festival has evolved incredibly over the years and we in the trade are privileged to witness this incredible event. Sumptuous was the word chosen by Pierre Lurton to describe the surroundings in which we were to taste the new wines at Chateau Cheval Blanc. The new chais costing 20 million or was it 40 million? as went the marvelling commentry. With new building projects taking place at Mouton Rothschild and Pichon Lalande as well as the projected Norman Foster re-design of the facilities at Chateau Margaux, the whole sensual assault looks to be set to explode. Co-incidentally, sensual is a word which often came to mind when tasting the 2012s, and I think reflects the vintage as a whole. It is of course a very generic adjective, but I mean it in the sense

2 of gentle expressiveness, non-aggressive, caressing, even sexy. The wines are perhaps less thoughtfully provoking but more physically, with lots of silky textures and often vividly pure in their aromatics. It is also perhaps true to say that many promised more than they delivered but that promise could well prove itself with more time in the cask and bottle. Many of these wines will drink happily in their youth, probably before the 2011s and definitely before the 2010s. There will be wines that last a long time but as Charles Chevalier at Chateau Lafite put it, this is a vintage to drink and enjoy. This is not a great vintage but there are some stunning wines, which is particularly satisfying in a difficult vintage. The vineyards had to deal with a very slow start, uneven ripening, hydric stress, rain during harvest, and botrytis. And yet the best sites have come up trumps, this is down to terroir. With better drainage and deep root systems the best sites with older vines can deal more effectively with these extremes. And then it comes down to selection, the top estates are increasingly rigorous, with as little as a third of the vineyard passing the quality test to make the first wine at the likes of Chateau Margaux: 'how disappointing not to have been able to add this fabulous plot of young 13 year old Cabernets, which had done so well in 2010 & 2011, to the first wine! But how wonderful to see our greatest plots of mature vines reach such heights of concentration and elegance! Chateau Margaux. In general the earlier Merlot crop was more successful picked in full ripeness before the weather changed at the beginning of October, certainly those Chateaux with quality Merlot were better equipped. But to say this is a Right Bank Vintage would be wide of the mark, in fact with the aforementioned selection in place these days, that expression will probably never be entirely apt again. I found myself particularly drawn to the natural charm of the Pomerol wines; this is likely to be from where the the most sought after wines hail. Clinet, Petit Village and La Conseillante were all very attractive. La Pointe will be an excellent buy; even Gazin which usually more extracted at this early stage, was supple and charming. St Emilion with its high percentage of Merlot also faired very well with several notable successes none more thrilling than Troplong Mondot. There will be some excellent early drinking fruit bombs such as Latour Figeac, and the excellent old vine Quinault L'Enclos, now under the direction of the Cheval Blanc team. It was very interesting to hear how the team at Haut Brion were much happier with their Metlot crop. In the Chateau Haut Brion blend it represented over 65% of the blend. As a resul this will not be a classic example of this iconic wine but it will be a unique and maybe all the more interesting to assess as it evolves. There were some excellent efforts from Pessac Leognan, with a note able wine from Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion which has been improving steadily in recent years. Pape Clement riding high after its 100 Parker Points for the 2010, again promised fine wines, the white particularly thrilling.

3 The Medoc was a mixed bag; I don't think any commune stood out, but Pauillac was perhaps the most consistent, with fine elegant quality. The quality in Margaux was up and down, and yet it delivered my favourite two wines Palmer and Chateau Margaux. Leoville Las-Cases and Pontet Canet also stood out as contenders for the wine of the vintage. Pichon Lalande pipped the Baron for me and Grand Puy Lacoste was showing brilliantly and could be one of the buys of the vintage. The wines at Chateau Latour were also thrilling, little use that is though as our customers probably can't buy them for another decade! Should you buy the 2012s? This is a drinking vintage, full of charm if not quite the depth of the great vintages. It will offer considerable pleasure while you wait for your 2009's & 2010s which should be held onto for as long as you can resist them. They are more attractive, certainly earlier in life than the 2011's. The prices are also likely to be lower so that makes them a much more interesting proposition. However these are not wines for financial gain, unless like in 2008 the prices fall considerably in line with other good bottled vintages, then the best will be worth seeking out, likely to offer decent mid-term return. Top Ten Palmer Margaux Leoville Las-Cases Pontet Canet Latour Haut Brion Troplong Mondot Cheval Blanc Ausone Montrose Best Value La Pointe La Dominique Larrivet Haut Brion Alter Ego Grand Puy Lacoste Haut Simard Quinault L Enclos Fourcas Hostens Maucaillou La Lagune

4 Tasting Notes: At Chateau Ausone - St Emilion Haut Simard Good deep plum, bacon fat and bright raspberry notes, good dose of new oak, medium weight, pronounced citric edge, nice smoky tannins on the finish, good length Fonbel Deep plum, sweet bright brambly blackcurrent fruit on the nose. Creamy, this is quite sweet and well endowed, a bit confectioned maybe but with a bit more barrel aging it will probably gain some tension Haut Simard Bit more delicate here. Bright nose, plump mid-palate and grip here nice balance this is quite serious with good purity and intensity. Supported in the promising length Moulin Saint Georges Good deep colour as always, there is an extra level of concentration here on the nose compared to the other wines in the group. It is layered, with beefy notes dense black fruits, tight and creamy with a polished mid-palate the tannins are slightly more obvious but still the balance is apparent the new oak shining through. Good appeal and life here / Chapelle D'Ausone Good deep purple not quite so as the Moulin St Georges, the nose is fine and complex, this is quite lovely on the nose, plenty of leverage here, but tails off a little quickly on the back of the finish. Good though Ausone Deep plum colour, very pretty black fruits here quite open and expressive for a primeur, layered too, a little smoke and piercing blackcurrant, effortless palate, ripe generous fruit not big on the structure here, dusty tannins, well hidden, leaving the palate nicely coated, ripe is the word a very good Ausone in the lighter style / At Chateau Soutard - St Emilion Beausejour Becot No problem with the depth of colour here. Quite an animal austere edge on the nose, good concentration, pronounced black fruits underneath, elegant and perfumed. Definite finesse, a cool palate, almost seamless with plenty of acidity and charm in the fruit, maybe a touch jammy

5 on the finish but attractive all the same. Open again and expressive. Promising future, this is a fine Beausejour Becot Canon La Gaffeliere Lots of red fruits on the nose here, pronounced cherry, again plenty of interest here on the nose. On the palate there is good density, as always under the Nieppberg regime this is not forced, its pure fruit driven style is not overly extracted leaving a pretty open St Emilion. Ripe tannins and a tasty finish. Medium length /100+ Dassault Nice creamy black cherry nose, good ripe concentration, creamy balanced palate, dense and chunky style here, lacks the finesse of some but a gutsy wine Figeac This is more serious on the nose, much more linear and defined, not giving too much away, just enough to entice you back for another go, all in line and layered, creamy, there is density here in the mid-palate well made, the terroir coming through in the minerality on the finish, stylish here, long and sleek Clos Fourtet Good deep colour, quite closed but with hints of damson right at the limit, this is packed with dense fruit on the palate, certainly well endowed with good grip and earthy tannins, the palate is a little sickly at present but with a little more oak will be a decent prospect. Much more obvious than the Figeac at present Grand Mayne This is deep in colour, a classic Emilion nose, attractive, cooler fruit here quite silky, ripe tannins good balance, Grand Mayne is a very consistant performer, quite extracted as a rule though perhaps less so this year. A good prospect La Dominique Very deep, here, lots of freshness with good concentration of blackcurrant, very creamy here on the palate, generous ripe and dense fruit, not overly extracted, polished. Good length no problems here, good result. The recent good form continues Latour Figeac Very attractive bright loganberry nose, overt, almost a cordial of blackcurrent, very creamy here and ripe, the acidity is there underneath, tannins are light and excellent. Could be slightly over jammy but I cant help enjoying this wine. looks like a great value for early drinking Larcis Ducasse

6 Great ripeness here again easy style this is very good on the palate a medium weight early drinker will bring plenty of pleasure early on but does have the balance to evolve over a longer period too Pavie Macquin Good colour, super nose, layered freshness, instant cool fruit here on the palate, density ripe intensity and good acidity, nice grip too on the finish, some time to go here, this will need bottle age Troplong Mondot Very deep colour here, sweet chocolaty nose, even white chocolate, very ripe black fruit concentration on the palate, the quality just hits you in the face, there is a liqueur like texture, this is really excellent, long, minty, dusty finish. Fades slowly At Cheval Blanc Quinault L'Enclos Earthy notes here, very lush on the palate a generous wine, nice minerality here, good dimensions very well balanced. Interesting the vines are on average over 50 years old at Quinault, it shows Petit Cheval year old vines deep fruitcake nose, again nice texture here, all up front plenty of generous fruit. A touch of green pepper on the finish, tails off a little quickly, an early drinker Cheval Blanc Good deep, colour this is layered subtle and focused on the nose, bright cranberry, minerality, the palate is very silky with good density, earthy and coffee notes. A supple wine, impressive on the finish, the tannins are quite reserved, does it have the depth of the best vintages? The layers are there but they all covered at the moment. The mid-palate is the the key here, and the length, it is seamless, very good for the vintage At Chateau La Conseillante - Pomerol Beauregard 80% Merlot nice open nose of black cherry and earthy notes, quite fresh, jammy, medium extraction not overly tannic some length too, sweet fruit not at all bad Clinet 90% M 9% CS 1% CF Good colour lots of legs, multi-layered nose, some meaty notes, and freshness too. This is attractive. There is elegance here; this is delicious very ripe fruit concentration here, lots of expression really delicious nice dusty tannins on the finish. I Like this, slightly better balance than in the very good

7 Gazin - 100% M Harvested 20th sept - 4th Oct. The Cabernet suffered here hence the mono blend. Tinged with dark chocolate at the edge quite closed, a cool palate plump with good freshness, caramac notes, interesting generous style here this is an excellent Gazin. Dusty tannins and not as fierce as usual Conseillante - 89% M 11% CF As always not the deepest, jolie fruit on the nose, fresh, very sweet here, jammy confiture, nice grip. The finish is attractive. Elegant not forced. At Conseillante they are traditional, looking for freshness and fruit purity. as usual it is found here in abundance La Pointe - 90% M This is much more like it a very ripe jammy nose, with a touch of Asian spice, really charming, open rich and exotic. There is grip here on the finish, not as seductive on the mid-palate than the best but very promising balance Le Bon Pasteur There is a slightly confectioned edge which quickly blows off, baby sick concentration, cool fruit texture on the palate, good minerality maybe a little more alchohol than most. Others preferred but very good Le Petit Village Nice brambly nose, this is decadent on the palate, so supple and luxurious, intense creamy and polished, nice spicy finish. I like this At Chateau Fourcas Hostens - Medoc, Moulis & Listrac La Tour Carnet Inky nose, the palate is nicely poised with good freshness and expression, juicy acidity and a pretty finish will evolve nicely in 3 to 4 years. A balanced Medoc La Lagune This has an extra sweet lift on the nose quite perfumed, nice new wood, again good freshness for me, touch more austerity but an attractive medium weight wine. The vanilla on the finish is quite pronounced Cantemerle Inky nose, chewy density, a supple wine with good freshness. This has an attractive edge of austerity surrounding the plump palate. A good mid-term drinker

8 Maucaillou Very deep colour, an intense cardboardy nose, the palate is quite full and dense, quite rustic with coffee and earthy notes more extracted than usual, quite surprising one to watch Poujeaux Less deep than the Maucaillou, not so much on the nose, pretty, supple as expected, generous rounded with a good austere edge and good grip. Shows well Fourcas Hostens Instant new oak here, sweet as a result, bright and sexy with a good minerally finish. How good is this for the price, no wonder they wanted to show off the new wine-making facilities At Labegorce - Margaux Du Tertre A little subdued on the nose, some attractive redcurrant notes underneath with coaxing, quite elegant here, this is quite intense but supple with some grip too, quite like the depth and definition. Here. Touch of vanilla too on the finish Giscours Again quite reserved on the nose, but there is expressive fruit here underneath, intense and beefy with dark chocolate, this is a little light on the mid-palate, reasonably harmonious but does it have the oomf it usually does, I am not sure. 89/ Kirwan This has decent dimension on the nose, meaty chocolatey notes, a touch of dry grass. The palate is supple with a pleasant texture, tobacco notes on the finish. It is all in balance but there is not quite the depth of a fine vintage Labegorce This is quite pronounced on the nose quite menthol and herbal, with a dark chocolate backdrop, there is plenty of guts to it the finish has fine tannins quite beefy, a touch herbaceousness on the finish. Very good for the price tag Lascombes This is quite perfumed. A cool ripe palate, dense jammy fruit, some extraction as would be expected here, chocolaty tannins. I am sure it will as usual fill out with cask and bottle aging. High expectations here now Malescot St Exupery

9 Great full plum colour, lovely rich chocolaty nose, the best so far at the Margaux UGC, black cherries and cream, spicy and perfumed, the palate is poised and the juicy acidity underpins plenty of supple charm and finesse on the finish. This is a very good wine for the vintage Prieure Lichine Dark colour, a tight and creamy nose, some suppleness, juicy but it is a bit firm on the finish again, the fruit is not the brightest part. I am sure there is the stuffing just a bit muted at present Rauzan Gassies Tarry nose quite closed. The first hit on the palate has dense ripe fruit there are a lot of coffee and earthy notes and vanilla on the finish. This is a well-constructed Gassies, if maybe lacking the charm fro fine at present Rauzan Segla Seems quite alchoholic, with spicy peppery notes, inky notes also, obviously intense and concentrated, this is sexy on the palate, with mouth-watering juicy fruit, a substantial length of coffee and dried fruits. This is delicious underlining the potential in Margaux this year At Chateau Palmer - Margaux Alter Ego Deep colour, tar tobacco, heavy on the black fruits, touch of menthol, this has an outstanding nose, a voluptuousness here not seen at the Labegorce tasting, this is lovely decadent and pure. A polished even flashy style but there is still plenty of finesse, this is one of the buys of the vintage and just sensational for a second wine Palmer Very deep colour, a complex cocktail on the nose brooding black fruits some ground beef, ink, this is a wine you can spend ages nosing in the glass, the palate is cool and intense, round, generous, powerful yet so feminine, seamless, super sexy, this really is a brilliant effort for me. The tannins are there but just covered over with the lovely dense supple texture. In the context of the vintage this is very fine possibly the finest on the left bank At Chateau Margaux Pavillon Rouge 66% CS 34% M A perfumed smoky nose, quite reserved compared to Alter Ego, the palate is very intense great freshness, very round this is a super Pavillon on the palate excellent finish too spicy delightful

10 Margaux 87 CS A beautiful Cabernet nose, really fine and deep-seated with delicate plumy fruit and hints of cigar box. Beautiful texture here, so silky with great purity as always. An ultra sensual wine, this is again a very fine wine for the vintage. It has the highest ever tannin level but you can't feel them, extraordinary Pavillon Blanc Really concentrated cats pee with a touch of honey and fresh grass, a powerful open Sauvignon Blanc, complex nose. The palate is very generous a fabulous mouth filling wine. It is quite exotic already maybe it's not as tightly wound as some vintages. But so impressive. A knock out At Chateau Mouton Rothschild D'Armailhac Nice deep plum, pretty nose here, quite elegant black cherry, touch of oak, really lovely and fresh, touch of spice, the palate is reasonably well endowed with quite a good texture, with noticeable acidity and a spicy peppery finish of new oak, a nice friendly wine Clerc Milon Deep plum with lots if glycerol on the glass, the nose is elegant again quite similar to the D'Armailhac, a little tabacco leaf, and perfume, this has a little more density though on the palate, more punchy cedary notes particularly on the finish this is stylish and will require a little bottle age. Very good for me Petit Mouton Again a decent colour, the finesse and purity is dependable at Mouton, this 2nd wine is open with red and black fruit, good lift a little more intensity or openness than the Clerc, perhaps more akin to the d'armailhac on the nose, good silky notes lovely grip here on the finish nice and toasty, quite delicious Mouton Rothschild Good depth, here in the colour, this is much tighter coiled, not revealing much on the nose. The palate is very relaxed, fine balance here, very pure. The finish is fresh, the tannins are ripe, all very composed if currently not really showing its legs, excellent potential At Chateau Montrose Dame de Montrose This is very deep in colour, an intense enticing nose, grilled, coffee notes, oaky, not getting much pure fruit, touch of fig. The palate is dense and silky, the tannins more obvious as the concentration is undoubtedly higher. There is balance here as shown in the toasty spicy finish.

11 Just a tad monolithic at the moment with more time in the barrel it will be a sizeable wine Montrose Again the depth is here, almost black, grilled smoky notes prevail on the nose, with hints of violets. This has more complexity than the Dame on the nose with dark chocolate. A really impressive broody nose here. The palate is very dense and super silky, chewy, with a really fine texture and very broad spicy grip and freshness. This is a big wine, polished and within itself an excellent Montrose At Chateau Lafite Carruades de Lafite Good deep plum, spicy fig and pencil shavings. There is generosity and plenty of acidity, leaving the finish nicely fresh with delicate nuances of dried fruits and earthy notes. Very attractive for the medium term Duhart Milon - 38 % M, 62 CS As always slightly deeper than Carruades, this has an attractive, pretty, elegant nose, really quite fine in its purity with good sweetness of fruit and a touch of white chocolate. Really attractive if a bit monolithic, creme caramel, very supple tight and polished on the palate the spicy edge coming through on the finish, which is correct but a little underwhelming for me, an elegant Duhart but lacks the usual concentration Lafite Good deep colour, with a violet rim, bacon fat and cream instantly hit on the nose, perfume, white chocolate, this is open for Lafite. On the palate there is plenty of body but not at all extracted, supple is the word here, grainy tannins on the finish, with subtle layers. The nose seems to promise a bit more at present. A sexy Lafite will open early, nice spicy grip At Pontet Canet Pontet Canet Very deep colour, a deep seated nose here intensity, cedar, smoke, with a creme caramel edge, even bonfire embers, captivating on the nose here. The palate it tight and coiled with vivid acidity, inky notes, spice and lead pencil on the finish. The creme caramel also following through onto the finish. The thing here is the elegant texture giving an expansive feel to the wine. The result is extra definition and great length and above all the terroir. Good structure and balance will keep well At Chateau Phelan Segur

12 Branaire Ducru This has a bright jammy nose, nice perfume, cool fruit but a bit lacking on the mid-palate, good nuanced finish quite long not bad, new oak Gloria Deep colour here, concentrated black tarry fruits, cool and pure mouth-coating on the palate. Good depth I like the balance here, this is a stylish St Julien Gruaud Larose Deep plum, a charming black fruited nose of blueberries and cassis, the palate is chunky and dense, plenty of substance. The tannins are a little spiky, there is good grip, a touch herbaceous, needs time to round off Langoa Barton Quite intense nose here, with black cherry and cranberry. The palate gas good texture and breadth. The overall wine is in balance, even though there is noticeable extraction on the back. This will evolve nicely Leoville Barton Good deep plum colour, this has good dimension on the nose sweet fruit, blackberries and cream, nice cool feel to fruit on the palate, supple and with nice balance not overly done, soft and attractive. It finishes with lots of the telltale Barton grip but will be fine with bottle age Leoville Poyferre This is deep in colour, holding back a touch on the nose but there is elegance here with perfume and smoke, very creamy here on the palate, delicious covered fine tannins. This is very fresh and satisfying, with great balance of power and finesse, leaves you with a long sleek finish, this is a fine wine for the vintage Batailley Good deep plum, this is very rich on the nose, perfumed. I like the sweetness of fruit, bright and fresh, a supple spicy textured palate with vigour and sparkle, interesting and inviting with admirable retention Grand Puy Lacoste This has definition and poise on the nose, old viney. This is concentrated with subtle, red fruit high notes, with a really lovely palate entrance. Silky, smooth and decadent this stands out on the finish too, with lingering freshness and powdery tannins. Not at all forced but is very expressive. A serious wine for the vintage Lynch Bages

13 A deep colour for the vintage, quite dumb with hints of black fruit and black olive, but there is finesse here, the palate is dense and considerably endowed with powdery tannins. The extracted style of Lynch Bages is on display right now and may prove too much for the 2012, but this could evolve into a fine Lynch Pichon Baron Solid colour, the nose is a little muted at present, tight, composed and elegant, the palate has good mouthfeel, dense, silky, all in harmony, with freshness and substantial tannins. Not showing much to really get excited about just now but a solid performance Pichon Lalande Deep colour, this has lots of nuanced fruit and elegance on the nose, with plumy notes, and perfume. This really stands out in the pure fruit expression on the palate, good concentration and texture reluctantly gives way to a fine grained spicy tannic finish, long and persistant. This is a fine Lalande and fine for the vintage, everything in stride, delicious, great terroir At Latour Pauillac 2012 Beefy nose, smoky with eucalyptus too, very cool and polished here, dense with vibrant acidity and good harmony. Plenty going on here and for a third wine this is delicious Les Forts de Latour Les Forts looks very deep, a full deep nose, beefy again with cedar. The perfume is very enticing just showing its potential, this has a lovely purity very rich blackcurrant concentration, with surprising depth for the vintage. Grilled meat and coffee on the full finish, this is really very good, a big wine but so elegant with it Latour This is very deep, almost black. Wow this is intense this is super intense. Cassis, earthy, brooding not exposing too many nuances, all wrapped up and powerful. The palate is so heavy and silky you can let it sit and evolve on the palate for ages. Chalky tannins here really excellent wine At Chateau La Mission Haut Brion Pessac Leognan Dragon de Quintus - 79 M, 21 CF Attractive deep plum, the nose is refined and perfumed elegant with bright charming fruit The palate is soft and caressing with medium weight, nice acidity and a toasty grip. Certainly well made Chapelle De La Mission Haut Brion M, 56 CS, 15.5 CF

14 Good deep purple, a deep seated nose, harmonious with a beautiful strawberry and chocolate edge, gorgeous, the palate is gently caressing, well endowed with chalky spicy tannins, dusty, nice mouth feel, freshness and a calm finish. Streamlined. Drink Le Clarence de Haut Brion - 41 M, 43 CS, 14 CF, 2 PV Maybe slightly deeper than the Chapelle, a heady nose, deep and perfumed There is freshness with no sense of over ripeness, slightly inky, very elegant, a soft velvety wine. The mid-palate is not quite so plump, but a touch more toasty complexity on the finish slightly firmer tannins. Drink Quintus - 89M, 11 CF This ancient Saint Emilion vineyard, formerly known as Chateau Tertre Daugay, was taken over by Domaine Clarence Dillon in The nose is open and attractive here with a fruitcake edge and bright sugary sweets, the palate is dense and chunky no sense of a jammy style this is serious stuff, fine tannins with a spicy edge. Toasty again. Drink La Mission Haut Brion - 62 M, 38 CS Good deep colour, a bit of a block here, muted, hints of rose petals, and spicy ginger. This is super refined and silky on the palate, sits so easily, yielding nuances, the flavours are nondescript but all in harmony, giving the feeling of control, and tension. The grip is quite pronounced and the finish is persistent, needs time to reveal its personality. Drink Haut Brion % M, 32.5% CS, 2% CF The deepest colour of the group, very expressive, baked apples, cedar, this is complex, fruit cake again I could spend a long time nosing this The palate is velvety, seamless, almost weightless but in a good way, it glides across he palate. The finesse here is just brilliant, this is obviously an elegant style of Haut Brion lacking a little punch perhaps but it will be a very impressive wine to consider against its peers. Really fine for me one of the wines of the vintage, a deft touch. Burgundian like La Mission Haut Brion Blanc - 84% S, 16% SB A lovely subtle nose here; the gentle silky palate shows a bit of flesh then hones into a tensile finish, with flecks of citrus. Cool entrance. Strict. Not as expressive as Haut Brion Blanc at present, but we will see how it unravels Haut Brion Blanc - 45% S, 55% SB You can see the classic grassy Sauvignon, an almost oily texture, this has great density with tropical spicy citrus hints, lots of power here, a big open wine, it will be incredible with bottle complex when the secondary characteristics evolve with bottle age At Chateau Olivier Pessac Leognan Smith Haut Lafitte

15 This has a very ripe exotic nose with chocolate, black cherry and even coconut. It is even a bit over ripe on the nose. Really lovely and pretty fruit on the palate, not at all heavy but it is a fruit bomb, exploding on the senses, there are fortunately firm lines in its dusty tannins. Left with delicious maraschino on the finish. This will be a very good example of this now superstar chateau Pape Clement Seriously attractive nose of damson with a biscuity edge. Very ripe and enticing, pure is the word, great mouthfeel glides like the Haut Brion, but with a touch more grip and toasty oak on the finish. There is no doubt this is a very good wine for the vintage Olivier Creamy cherry nose, a pretty palate, quite light but not forced, dusty tannins quite good Malartic Lagraviere This has a delicious nose similar to SHL with lots of high red fruit notes. Nice and dense on the palate with a brambly edge and pronounced blackcurrants. The tannins are quite pronounced, here but I think it will stand it, a very solid performance La Louviere This is medium plum, lovely ripe nose, gentile cool fruit, I like the harmony here, it is unpretentious and has a good toasty finish Latour Martillac Piercing fruit concentration of cassis here on the nose. Plump entrance onto the palate with plenty of back up on the structure, nicely leading into the pleasant attractive finish. A good future. Classic and Earthy Larrivet Haut Brion Good deep plum, attractive plummy nose with a hint of damson. There is freshness here with a lovely textured palate. Well-endowed compared to some of the Graves with good breadth and density in the mid-palate. Long and fine on the finish. This is a sensibly priced chateau and shows super quality for those that follow it Domaine de Chevalier Full attractive colour, with good intensity on the nose. This has an excellent mouth feel for me one of the best in the room, dense and balanced with pronounced cassis and earthy tones. No lack of stuffing and as always great finesse on the finish, a very good result for the chateau Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

16 Lovely intensity on the nose this has tension, liqueur like texture even a faint hint of botrytis a very attractive Graves Blanc with a long future Pape Clement Blanc Quite a pale lemon, the nose here is heavenly with lemon meringue, lime, and dried grass, this is sublime. The palate is delicious, so multi-layered here, and so delicate. There is so much here to admire and it is just so subtle. Great finesse for me. Very fine Malartic Lagraviere Blanc Pale with a hint of lime, the nose is citrus dominated, green apple, with some honeyed tones, ice citric notes, refreshing acidity on the palate with good texture and good tension here, plenty of layers to unravel. Very Good future Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc Very pale gold, a cool intensity to the fruit on the palate here, with a subtle touch of the exotic. A very long stylish finish here too. Impressive Will Gardener

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