BURGUNDY 2014 en primeur

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Transcription:

BURGUNDY 2014 en primeur

It s always slightly tricky tasting a new vintage in Burgundy when the next one is already hailed as being great. 2001 and 2008 were good examples of this (where some great wines were made), much of the hype is already there and there seems to be less focus on the vintage you are actually trying. By all accounts 2015 will be a great vintage, but in reality little can be told from samples that have barely fermented never mind having had the opportunity to develop their real character. 2014, however, is really very exciting for a number of reasons. Firstly the whites are without doubt some of the greatest I have tasted since first visiting the region in 2000. I have heard it said, from well-respected tasters, that this is the greatest white Burgundy vintage that they have ever tried en-primeur. The best wines have wonderful concentration and density while retaining an acidity and balance that makes them truly exceptional. The wines are also exceptionally expressive of their terroir and although Meursault, Volnay and Pommard were hit by hail (thus reducing yields) generally yields were good. While we knew the whites would be good we knew less about the quality of the reds. The growing season had been tricky with a cool, damp July and August, but a warm and sunny September (as so often happens) saving the vintage. From the wines we tasted we were enormously impressed by the quality of the vintage. They had a transparency which allowed every characteristic of the terroir to shine through, Nuit St George taste like Nuits St George and Vosne offers its typical class and minerality. These are not blockbusters (ala 2009) but possess purity elegance and real class. They may not have the longevity of a truly great vintage (2010) but they do have a poise and balance like a hypothetical mix of 2002 and 2007. This is a vintage for those who love classically styled reds and white Burgundy. The great news is that, in most cases, prices have increased very little from 2013. The general impression is that is unlikely to be the case in 2015 and it seems unlikely that they will decrease in the future. This makes it perhaps the last opportunity, to buy many of these great domains at this price level. While 2014 may not have the hype level of 2015, I am certain the wines will not disappoint those clients who decide to add some to their cellar. The best bottle I had last year was a magnificent Chevalier Montrachet 2001, Domaine Leflaive. By reputation this wine may sit in the shade of the 2002, I would however suggest that it is in every way as good if not better than its more exalted younger sibling. 2014 certainly has the potential to offer such examples and we cannot recommend them enough. As always demand for many of these wines will far exceed our allocations, so if you are ordering highly sought after domains then we would ask you to look at some of the less well known wines which will offer huge pleasure to balance your order. If you would like some advice on suitable options do please let us know. Terms & Conditions All wines are offered in Bond in the Uk. The majority will be shipped in the autumn of 2016 at which point we will contact you and they can be transferred to an in Bond storage account or delivered directly to you. When you decide to take delivery Duty and VAT will be charged at the prevailing rates, currently these are: Duty 24.60 & VAT 20% per case 12btls. All deliveries will be charged at cost. Latimer Vintners Ltd 146 Freston Road London W10 6TR T: +44 (0)20 7985 1005 F: +44 (0)20 7681 3211 wine@latimervintners.com latimervintners.com

White Unit Unit Price Domaine-Bachelet Monnot The Domaine run by brothers Marc and Alex, are producing some truly magnificent wines at all levels. The 2014 s were superb across the board and the village wines particularly over performed. Neal Martin is a huge fan comparing their style to Domaine Leflaive from the 1990 s: What can I say? What more needs to be said? These guys are just making stupendous white Burgundy wines that rank alongside the best you can find. Their 2014 Puligny Folatières stands as an exemplar of that great vineyard and their 2014 Saint-Aubin en Remilly was utterly delectable. Neal Martin Wine Advocate Bourgogne Blanc 12 125 InBond Nice ripe green apple fruit, very good quality, lovely balance very fresh. Top quality for a BB. The 2014 Bourgogne Blanc sees around 15% new oak and has a perfumed nose with citrus peel and lime aromas - good attack here. The palate is fresh and vibrant, their location in Puligny lending steeliness and tension towards the refined finish. This is one of the best white generic Burgundy 2014s you can buy. 87-89 points Neal Martin Wine Advocate St Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 12 240 InBond Typical St Aubin nose with apple and some light red berry fruit. Great elegance but with toffee and butter. Lovely precision excellent acidity lots of energy. Meursault Clos de Cromin 12 300 InBond A bit more richness here with some melted butter and spice. Broader but still with tightness and real energy, green apple fruit. Puligny Montrachet 12 300 InBond Made from 13 separate parcels vinified separately and then blended. Rich, quite classic Puligny nose ripe apple with some spice and butter. Lovely concentration fresh and well balanced apple fruit with good richness. Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny 6 205 InBond Greener apple and lemon fruit. More mineral with some greengage fruit. Very precise with crisp acidity, very linear but more complex, lovely peach fruit on mid palate well integrated and balanced oak with a slightly toasty finish. Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Referts 6 250 InBond More masculine, very mineral, good power and concentration. Lovely apple fruit here very tight and remarkably elegant, lovely balance, super. Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 6 270 InBond Floral with riper fruit some spice and a lovely mineral character. Very elegant, really refined with lovely sherbet character nice acidity and balance, really lovely.

White Unit Unit Price Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 6 965 InBond Superb real masculine style toffee, rocks and apricot. Really tight and compact but so concentrated, mineral, lovely power very impressive. Domaine Marc Morey Sabine Mollard is making some wonderful wines and the 2014 vintage really suit the style of the Domaine. They are classic Chassagne and Puligny with wonderful density and they will give an enormous amount of pleasure. Sabine Mollard is quietly going about producing some of Chassagne s finest whites at Domaine Marc Morey. Neal Martin Wine Advocate Bourgogne Blanc 12 125 InBond Lime fruit with some herb and peach notes. Lots of lovely fruit nice balance good acidity, very attractive. Chassagne Montrachet 12 255 InBond More lemon and lemon peel some smoke and quite mineral. Really vibrant acidity, delicious mineral character, lovely concentration and power. Puligny Montrachet 12 275 InBond Slightly more baked apples with some warm spice and good balance, again apple on the palate with some spice and butter, lovely finish this year, some caramel very long. St Aubin 1er cru Charmois 12 210 InBond Lemon fruit with some strawberry character and also white pepper. Lovely racy lemon fruit, good concentration, quite serious very nice balance, very good. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Chenevottes 6 180 InBond Lemon fruit, zest and a real stoney, mineral character also some peach. Very citrus lemon, racy and precise lovely concentration, nice balance, quite serious. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Virondot 6 190 InBond Peach and some tropical fruit, lemon, butter, caramel and cinnamon spice. Lovely concentration, pineapple fruit but fresh with lime, very mineral, excellent concentration and super structure, very long, really impressive.

White Unit Unit Price Domaine Roulot As always this was one of the highlights of the week. Thanks to the hail (50% of the crop was destroyed) quantity will be very limited and demand very high if you are interested in some let us know and what little we have will be allocated based on balance orders across the offer. Bourgogne Aligote Crisp green apple fruit with caramel and custard. Very attractive and delicious. Please enquire as to availability and pricing. Bourgogne Blanc Citrus and apple fruit, lemon a touch of perfume and powder, very delicate and fine. Lovely balance, very precise, excellent lemon citrus character a little minerality. Really very fine for a Bourgogne. Excellent concentration. Meursault Vireuils More baked apples here broader and more spice even some butter Lovely zesty character. The fruit is peach good concentration. There is a raciness but also lovely breadth and balance zesty finish. Meursault Meix Chavaux Lemon and lemon peel, more masculine and mineral really mineral on the nose. Lots of lemon and peach a little more vibrant very expressive. Very impressive this year. Meursault Tessons Clos de Mon Plasirs More lemony and slightly more open, intense minerality, some butter. Lovely ripeness if fruit excellent balance power and intensity, spice on the finish. Meursault 1er Cru Porusot Super mineral no real fruit character just stone, very attractive. Really fine, precise, very mineral but so much concentration of fruit very complex, very balanced. Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres Salted caramel and stones with some soft peach fruit and citrus Fabulous concentration so dense and yet ethereal peach fruit, lemon and really sings excellent vibrancy, so long and so complex really fabulous.

White Unit Unit Price Domaine Paul Pillot Thierry Pillot is making some of the finest whites in Chassagne and quite possibly the whole Cote de Beaune. The wine are the definition of elegance and really allow the terroir of each vineyard shine. The 2014 were magnificent. Bourgogne Blanc 12 130 InBond Lime and citrus fuit with mineral core and great balance. Quite serious for a generic Bourgogne blanc, very good. Chassagne Montrachet 12 275 InBond Lime and green apple fruit. Lovely texture, fresh minerality, lots of energy, really rich and concentrated. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St Jean 6 185 InBond Richer, rounder and with lovely ripe fruit. Mineral with a citrus and strawberry fruit character. Nice ripeness lovely minerality and stoniness, really fantastic. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gains 6 185 InBond Intense Lime and peach fruit with some pineapple, ripe with some stoney character. Lovely fruit lovely vitality, density and length. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Cailleret 6 240 InBond Really mineral with lemon and some peach character. Super balance really lovely with great finesse and real power. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Grande Ruchottes 6 240 InBond More masculine really mineral with a touch of caramel and toffee. Real energy really rich and expressive citrus and stone. Chassagne Montrachet Grande Montagne 6 240 InBond Spending 18 months in barrel, this really limey with peach and some smoke. There is a lovely transparency, really fine, very focused with lovely, mouth-watering limeyness, super mineral, this is impressive stuff. Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanee 6 320 InBond A real decadent nose, rich, very mineral with smoke, toffee, butter and peach fruit. Very complex with super acidity and lovely balance real energy very complex and incredibly long, very very good.

Red Unit Unit Price Domaine Sylvain Cathiard As usual demand will far outstrip demand for these wines, they are an excellent example of the vintage and I hope you are lucky enough to add a case or two to your cellar. Vosne Romanee 6 250 InBond Dark fruit and some raspberry notes. Very pure again nice freshness and good density, structured but ripe fruit very attractive. Chambolle Musigny Les Clos de l Orme 6 265 InBond Lighter more raspberry and redcurrant fruit nice structure, although slightly more tannic than expected. Very pure fruit very mineral. Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Thorey 6 450 InBond A little tight and closed with some rustic edges. Slightly more reserved good structure and attractive fruit character. The 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey has a gorgeous bouquet with blueberry and wild strawberry fruit, hints of cassis intermingling with violet, a little creaminess coming from the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannin, and a keen thread of acidity that binds the succulent dark plum and blackberry fruit together. There is a sense of controlled opulence here, very silky in the mouth with a very precise finish that does not hang about like the 2009 I tasted a few weeks earlier. The coolness of this vineyard just curtails any ostentation here and renders this an extremely fine Aux Thorey. 91-93 Neal Martin Wine Advocate Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Murgers 6 500 InBond Lovely brambly fruit nice purity much bigger structure more tannic. Big, rich and impressive this is for the long term. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Reignots 3 270 InBond Tight on the nose lovely fruit in the mouth. Lots of powdery, floral notes very concentrated but still elegant with good freshness. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Orveaux 3 270 InBond More feminine, the vineyard is next Chambolle Musigny. Very pretty, super expressive and really lovely, with great density, really so good! Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts 3 450 InBond More masculine, redcurrant fruit, stones and mineral. Closed on the nose. Real concentration of fruit big structure hidden by ripe fruit. Very impressive. Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru POA Very tight coiled and closed at the moment, lots of minerality Lovely pure fruit really expressive excellent depth and concentration very impressive.

Red Unit Unit Price Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Quality at this estate keeps getting better and better each time we taste. With an enviable quantity of Grand cru vineyards and with a currently under the radar status the 2014 are a great opportunity to get in on some really wonderful wines which offer exceptional value. Bourgogne Rouge 12 126 InBond Nice pure red currant fruit. Really pure in the mouth, nice freshness crunchy fruit very good. Chambolle Musigny 12 312 InBond Fresh red fruit and a touch of currant, lovely soft pure fruit, excellent acid balance, lovely. Morey St Denis 12 312 InBond Lovely pure fruit some minerality nice balance good acidity but not as good as Chambolle. Gevrey Chambertin 12 312 InBond A little more closed red plum fruit a touch of earth and a touch of spice Ripe fruit hide nice structure and body good acidity balanced. Vosne Romanee 12 312 InBond Two parcels, Pedrix next to Echezeaux and les Violette. Pure ripe Strawberry fruit, great structure elegant and good mineral back bone. Delicious. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru 6 252 InBond This is made from of 75% Beaumont and the rest is from a parcel of Echezeaux right next to Beaumont. Brilliant concentration of fruit, nice density. Real purity and ripe sweet fruit alongside, brown sugar, lovely minerality, excellent. Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 6 390 InBond Very feminine, pure raspberry fruit. Pure, precise fruit, very mineral and very impressive great concentration and complexity, really superb. Echezeaux Grand Cru 6 420 InBond Really very Echezeaux, lovely dark Vosne fruit, nice mineral character. Textured pure fruit and good structure with fine tannins, stylish, flash but in a really good way. Excellent. Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 6 420 InBond Some bacon fat alongside the pure transparent red and black fruit. Remarkably open fruit with great poise and freshness, complex and mineral, really so good.

Red Unit Unit Price Clos St Denis Grand Cru 6 420 InBond Just a truly awesome nose, perfumed and floral but lovely purity it is super elegant and refined. Concentrated but retaining so much elegance and finesse, fabulous red and bramble fruit so fine, the red ripe fruit hides the structure. Brilliant stuff. Grand Echezeaux Grand Cru 6 588 InBond Again really Vosne in style, flashy and concentrated but retaining purity, very precise and super concentrated. Extremely pure fruit and really good. Domaine Hudelot- Noellat Charles Van Canyet can seem to do no wrong at the moment. Critics and collectors are flocking to this great Domaine and heaping praise on this excellent young winemaker. Charles has overseen some impressive wines in 2014, not least a spellbinding Richebourg that will rank as one of the best wines of the vintage Neal Martin Wine Advocate Bourgogne Rouge 12 120 InBond pretty, strawberry and blackcurrant-scented bouquet. The palate is well balanced with a fresh line of acidity, quite linear with a brisk finish. Enjoy this 2-3 years after bottling. Neal Martin Wine Advocate Chambolle Musigny 12 310 InBond Lovely purity of red fruit, nice ripeness. Good freshness, red fruit, red currant nice balance. Vosne Romanee 12 310 InBond Very Vosne more flashy nice mineral character. Again lovely freshness and purity well balanced crunchy fruit, good mineral character. Nuits St Georges Bas de Cambes 12 310 InBond A little lighter red fruit, crushed puree of redcurrants and raspberries nice balance and very harmonious. Vougeot 1er Cru Petits Vougeot 12 495 InBond Very pretty, nice purity of fruit and great minerality. Lovely red currant fruit with some leaf character again fresh and moreish. Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Murgers 12 550 InBond Classic Nuits, lots of sweet, pure, fruit, graphite and limestone minerality. Rich, decadent fruit with lots of crunch, very attractive. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaumonts 6 350 InBond A real step on the nose, very concentrated and mineral but with lovely fruit character. Linear and precise this has a lovely elegance.

Red Unit Unit Price Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Charmes 6 365 InBond Always the definition of the elegance of Chambolle, sweet ripe fruit and already very open. There is a lovely balance, very pretty berry fruit and a lovely freshness all wrapped up in a fine delineated structure. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Suchot 6 510 InBond Denser and more powerful than the Beaumont but missing a little of its finesse. Wonderful purity of black and red fruit nice mineral notes very attractive. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Malconsorts Much more mineral masculine. Really super concentrated fruit, so beautiful amazing complexity. Truly impressive, Grand cru quality. Magnum 275 InBond Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 6 530 InBond Lovely density much more serious pure juicy fruit and lovely minerality. Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru 3 675 InBond A lovely herby character. A little closed but tightly coiled real density, great balance, really good, really serious. Richebourg Grand Cru 3 725 InBond Pretty damn sexy, feminine but so concentrated and intense. Exceptionally fine red fruit notes very fine, very complex. Best wine tasted this week? Domaine Odoul Coquard Sebastian Odoul has produced some lovely wines in 2014. As always they are remarkably open and expressive to taste but undoubtedly have the structure and balance to age extremely well. Bourgogne Rouge 12 110 InBond Lovely pure red and black fruit sweet and ripe fruit and a moreish quality. Very vibrant berry fruit, brown sugar v good. Gevrey Chambertin 12 235 InBond A little earthier but with good vibrant red plum fruit. A bit more structure here good energy, slightly more corners but good vibrant acidity. Morey St Denis aux Cheseaux 12 235 InBond Bramble and hedgerow fruit some underbrush but nice purity and ripeness of fruit, some caramelised sugar. Lovely vibrant fruit, balance and energy, defined minerality very good.

Red Unit Unit Price Nuits St Georges Les Argillat 12 265 InBond Some black currant and blueberry fruit. Very pure juicy with a very attractive minerality/ Lovely black fruit almost Ribena like nice square structure fine tannins a real sweetness. Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 6 215 InBond More strawberry compote with some lovely perfume and mineral character. Great concentration and quite a big structure nice fine tannins but structured and with significant potential lovely freshness and acidity. Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes 6 215 InBond A bit more serious bigger and more dense not a delicate feminine chambolle. Strawberry fruit lovely concentration some mineral backbone, quite a big structure attractive. Morey St Denis 1er Cru Clos La Riotte 6 210 InBond A little reduced but some vibrant fruit coming through, pepper and caramel. Rich and ripe with lovely fruit lots of power, masculine, quite serious. Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combottes 6 215 InBond Next door to Latricieres Chambertin, lovely juicy fruit, plum and raspberry lovely structure fine tannins excellent balance really lovely. Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 6 300 InBond A step up here lovely purity with great elegance and minerality. Lovely floral and mineral complexity, very feminine very balanced lovely complexity.