The Wine Potentials in Nordic Countries

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The Wine Potentials in Nordic Countries Torben Bo Toldam-Andersen Associate prof. in fruit science. Scientific head of the Pometum Department of Plant and Environmental Sciences Crop Science section, Copenhagen University

Content overview Commercial yield Canopy management Cultivars Yield component data analysis Yield potential in different cultivars Commercial quality Ripening levels reached and styles to make. Winemaking techniques and wine styles Different wine styles from same grape material Still wines, sparkling, Bolero and Solaris wines

To go from hobby to commercial grower is not the same as going from amateur to become a professional! In an emerging region a commercial grower is someone making more wine than he/she can drink themselves. Dias 3

Formal educations are lacking. => high need of knowledge transfer. + need of providing consulting services. A common solution is: Larger wineries employ/import trained winemakers. This stage has been reached in Scandinavia Next level will be to attract more investors And to become more known for a recognizable and respected wine style. Dias 4

The traditional world of wine - vs - the Cold new regions In the 60 ies 70 ies and 80 ies the climate was generally cool Techniques was optimized for optimal ripening, yield and quality: The optimal transformation of sunlight into wine! VSP systems and canopy management was perfected. Now the cool climate (vinifera) regions are fighting with to early harvest, to high sugar and alcohol levels and have to modify and reinvent the growing with focus on delayed development. We can benefit from the developed techniques. But they also have to be adapted for the light conditions we have and the physical characteristics of the new cultivars How do we optimize yield and quality?

Yield components & determinants Number berries/cluster x weight/berry (fruit size) - Cultivar, climate, fruit/leaf Number of clusters x weight/cluster - Pollination, cultivar, weather Number of fruiting shoots x clusters/shoot - flowers and shoot development the year before - thinning, pruning Number of plants x number shoots/plant - growing system - 1 or 2 canes, (or cordon) Number of plants pr m x meter between rows

Yield components & determinants 5 mio berries x 1,5g/berry => 7500 kg/ha - cultivar, climate, fruit/leaf 33.333 clusters x 150 berries/cluster => 5 mio berries - Pollination, cultivar,weather 33.333 fruiting shoots x 1cluster/shoot - flowers and shoot Development the year before - thinning, pruning 2.222 x (7 + 8 = 15 shoots/plant) (+ 4 replac.shoots) - Growing system - 1 or 2 canes, (cordon) 1,5m x 3 m = 1pl/4½m2 = 2.222 pl/ha

Fruiting shoots sampled and analyzed 8 of each cultivar and locality Ball size is Weight/berry g/cluster Berries/cluster Dias 8 (Avler= grower)

Ball size represent Clusters/shoot G fruit/fruiting shoot g/cluster Dias 9 In average 1 cluster/shoot at Pometet. Growers in average 1½. Grower 3 has 2½ cluster/shoot!

Ball size represent Cluster size in g/cluster G fruit/meter row Clusters/shoot Dias 10 A major yield component separating Pometum plants from growers turns out to be number of fruiting shoots/m row. (= quality of replacement shoots!) In addition the quality of replacement shoots is important for flower quality => cluster size and thus yield per fruiting shoot next year.

Leaf/fruit cm2/g (whole plant level) One point represents the average of 8 shoots of a cultivar Dias 11

Cultivar Shoots /m row Leaf size cm 2 Leaves / shoot Total leaf area m 2 /m row g/ cluster Clusters /shoot Pot. Yield kg/m row Solaris 14 194 14 5,08 180 2,2 5,2 Muscaris 16 178 16 5,91 250 1,2 4,8 Johanitter 15 101 17 3,59 200 2,0 6,1 Villaris 13 180 13 4,25 175 0,7 1,6 Bolero 15 123 11* 3,01 300 2,3 10,2 Rondo 14 137 16 4,36 225 2,3 7,1 Tr. D Al. 16 204 13 5,5 125 2,2 4,3 Average 14,7 160 14,3 3,85 208 1,8 5,6 *Allow longer shoots and some laterals with 2 leaves

Cultivar Pot. Yield kg/m row If 20cm 2 /g Kg/m row Yield tons/ha If 17,5 cm2/g Kg/m row Tons/ ha Solaris 5,2 2,54 7,62 2,91 9,5 Muscaris 4,8 2,96 8,80 Johanitter 6,1 1,79 5,87 Villaris 1,6 (2,13) (6,3) Bolero 10,2 1,5* 4,5 1,8* 5,9 Rondo 7,1 2,18 6,54 Tr. D Al. 4,3 2,75 8,25 Average 5,6 1,93 5,78 *Allow longer shoots and some laterals with 2 leaves The higher leaf area utilize more of the yield potential

If you do not keep up with your canopy management this happens Vrangbækgård, South east Funen, DK VitiNord 2018 Dias 14

Some hours later. Vrangbækgård, South east Funen, DK VitiNord 2018 Dias 15

Trioump d Alsace! Vrangbækgård, South east Funen, DK VitiNord 2018 Dias 16

Thinning experiment in Bolero grown on 5BB. 2014 data 10 planter of each treatment, 1,5 m distance in row, 3 m between rows (2222 plants/ha). 2 fruiting canes. * Based on 20 clusters. Reduc. = reduction in cluster size. Aug. th.= additional thinning to 1 cluster in august. Initial thinnings done after fruit set. Treatment Yield/plant Cluster size* Clusters/ plant Brix Yield/ha Kg/m Kg g (Calculated) % tons 2 clusters + reduc. 8,920 b 208 42,9 17,6 19,8 5,95 1 cluster + reduc. 5,614 d 207 27,1 17,9 12,5 3,74 2 clusters 10,076 a 257 39,2 15,1 22,4 6,72 1 cluster 6,140 c 266 23,1 17,7 13,6 4,09 2 cluster + aug th. 6,220 c 271 23,0 17,4 13,8 4,15 200 150 Glu+Fruc in free run juice g/l 100 50 R² = 0,8204 0 0,0 2,0 4,0 6,0 8,0 10,0 12,0 kg/plant

180 160 140 120 Yield quality relationship in Bolero Does it pay off to thin? (Cluster size reduction etc..) Glu+Fruc in free run juice g/l 100 R² = 0,8204 80 60 40 20 0 0,0 2,0 4,0 6,0 8,0 10,0 12,0 kg/plant Green harvest from 20 Bolero plants What happens if you reduce yield to 3kg/plant (2kg/m row)? => To much growth!!

Bolero has fantastic yield potential! Also in 2018 Vrangbækgård, South east Funen, DK VitiNord 2018 Dias 19

Green harvest may not be a waste VitiNord 2018 Dias 20

2016 Bolero plants Kg Kg/pl Kg/m row % brix % vol Fyn 25 199 7,96 5,3 17,6 10,3 Pometet 50 367 7,33 4,9 17 10,1 2016 Solaris plants Kg Kg/pl Kg/m row % brix Pot alk. % vol Fyn 45 177 3,93 2,6 25,5 14,7 Pometet 40 150 3,75 2,5 25,0 14,5 Does it make sence only to harvest 2½kg/m row if you get 14-15% alcohol in a cold climate white wine?

Yield potential of Solaris 2018 Vrangbækgård, South east Funen, DK VitiNord 2018 Dias 22

Solaris on a flat cordon system perform great as well. Frørup vingård VitiNord 2018 Dias 23

Rondo on a flat cordon system perform is also very productive Frørup vingård VitiNord 2018 Dias 24

Characterisation of the wines made from the new cultivars. The PIWI s. What are the characteristics of the wines from the single cultivars? Søren Balling Engelsen will report on data from more than 20 cv later today. Harvest 2016.

Dias 26 Horticultural Science

Cultivar specific wine development Bolero Whole cluster press (light rose) 24 Hour maceration (dark rose) 12 Days skin fermentation (red wine) After base wine production Bottle fermentation of the 3 wines + 50:50 blends of WCP:24H (medium dark rose) WCP:12Days (light red) (How to make a Barolo out off Bolero?)

(How to make an Amarone out off Bolero?) Amarone is from a warm viticultural area => they dry the grapes in the sun after harvest. In Denmark we are cool guys! So you just take a part of the free run juice after destemming and crushing. Freeze over night. Next morning half frozen. Rack the non frozen concentrated juice of. Add back in! Removal of water from the grape must by low temperature instead of high temperature = Chaptalization with it self. Easy to increase total brix from 17 to fx 22% You loose some volume but with Bolero you still have much more wine/ha than with any other grape!

The media (the fruit) Aroma The yeast What the yeast produces depend on the yeast Type and the media We have some interesting talks on yeasts today!

PCA Bolero sparkling wines with different extraction times. VitiNord 2018 Dias 30

Increasing alcohols Dias 31

Increasing others.. Dias 32

Decreasing esters (tendencies) Dias 33

Metabolic pathways as a tool to understand aroma data Dias 34

21/08/2018 Example: Pyruvate Ethanol Ethyl Pyruvate Acetate/acetic acid Acetyl CoA Ethanol Tri carboxylic acid cycle Succinate/ Succinic acid Propionic acid Propanal Ethyl acetate Acetyl CoA Ethanol 2 x Acetyl-CoA Valine 2-keto isovalerate Keto acids 2-keto-3-methylvalerate Isoleucine Propanol (n propyl alcohols 2-methylbutyraldehyde Aceto acetyl-coa Butyryl-CoA Active amyl alcohol 1-Pentanol (amyl alcohol) Butyric acid Butanal Butanol Acetyl CoA Ethanol Ethanol Ethyl 2-methylbutyrate Acetyl CoA Ethyl butyrate Acetyl CoA 35

21/08/2018 Pyruvate Ethanol Ethyl Pyruvate Acetate/acetic acid Acetyl CoA Ethanol Tri carboxylic acid cycle Succinate/ Succinic acid Propionic acid Ethyl acetate Acetyl CoA Ethanol 2 x Acetyl-CoA Valine Keto acids Isoleucine 2-keto isovalerate 2-keto-3-methylvalerate alpha-keto-isocaproate Leucine Aceto acetyl-coa Iso butyric acid Iso butyraldehyde 3-Methylbutanal (Isovaleraldehyde) Butyryl-CoA Butyric acid Ethanol Isobutanol, Isobutyl alcohol 2-methyl-1-propanol (Ethyl isobutyrate) Ethyl 2-methylpropanoate 3-Methylbutanoic acid (Isovaleric acid) 3-methyl butanol (Isoamyl alcohol) Acetyl CoA 3-Methylbutyl octanoate Acetone Acetyl CoA Diethyl succinate 36

Illustrates the central role of the amino acids in the yeast metabolism + the interaction of yeast x media Nils Arneborg will address yeast later today. Mikael Agerlind Pedersen will report on some of our work in Solaris. The effects of sulfite management on aroma. (Should have had a talk from the sensory group). Dias 37

Wines send to the annual wine show analyzed at Pometet Sulfite administration is a problem for the industry! Free sulfite in white and rose wines The line indicates the free sulfit level needed for 0,8ppm SO 2 VitiNord 2018 Dias 38

Decanoic acid Benzoic acid 10 carbon 2-methylbutanoic acid/2-methylbutyric acid 2 carbon chain 1 Acetyl CoA Isobutyric acid (Isobutyryl-CoA) Horticultural Science Another example: Ethanol derived esters in juice, after 3 days non-sacc and in final wine chain 6 2 8 Butyric acid from Valine PastH NatH 4 PastH. F.cap NatH F.cap Octanoic acid PastH. R.muc NatH R.muc 5 caprylic acid 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 12 10 8 6 4 Ethyl decanoate PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc PastH ETHYL OCTANOATE Ethyl caprylate PastH Sacc NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc NatH Most+H 5days Final NatH Sacc 0,06 0,05 0,04 0,03 0,02 0,01 0 Ethyl benzoate PastH PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 8 carbon chain from Valine 0,2 0,15 0,1 0,05 0 Ethyl 2- methylbutanoate PastH PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 20 15 10 5 0 PastH Ethyl acetate PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc Most+H 5days Final Ethanol NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc 0,09 0,08 0,07 0,06 0,05 0,04 0,03 0,02 0,01 0 ETHYL ISOBUTYRATE PastH PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 4 carbon (Butyryl-CoA) chain 3 carbon chain NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Linked to the TCA cycle Succinate-> propionate. 14 12 10 6 4 2 0 ETHYL BUTYRATE PastH PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 2 0 Most+H 5days Final 7 3 5 carbon 9 carbon 6 carbon chain chain chain 12 carbon chain from leucine from Valine fra isoleucine from Valine ETHYL DODECANOATE PastH NatH PastH. F.cap NatH F.cap PastH. R.muc NatH R.muc PastH Sacc NatH Sacc 2,5 2 1,5 1 0,5 0 Most+H 5days Final Dodecanoic acid ETHYL NONANONATE PastH NatH PastH. F.cap NatH F.cap PastH. R.muc NatH R.muc PastH Sacc NatH Sacc 0,014 0,012 0,01 0,008 0,006 0,004 0,002 0 Most+H 5days Final 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 ETHYL HEXANOATE Ethyl caproate PastH PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 0,04 0,035 0,03 0,025 0,02 0,015 0,01 0,005 0 PastH Ethyl trans-2- hexenoate PastH. F.cap PastH. R.muc PastH Sacc NatH NatH F.cap NatH R.muc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final 0,09 0,08 0,07 0,06 0,05 0,04 0,03 0,02 0,01 0 Ethyl pentanoate PastH NatH PastH. F.cap NatH F.cap PastH. R.muc NatH R.muc PastH Sacc NatH Sacc Most+H 5days Final Propionic acid (Propionyl-CoA can in bacteria with Acethyl-CoA form Valeryl CoA) Dias 39 caprylic acid/nonanoic acid Hexanoic acid trans-2-hexenoic acid crotonic acid or trans 2-butenoic acid (caproic acid) Valeric acid /Pentanoic acid

Effects of prefermentation treatments on sensory profile of Solaris wines Dias 40 Zhang et al 2015.

Solaris vinification tests 2010/11: Cold mac. + skin ferm. Direct press Cold mac. 41

Dias 42 Horticultural Science

Blending Dias 43

Quality improvements by blending. Highly overlooked Sfyra, 2014 Dias 44

Quality improvements by blending. Highly overlooked Sfyra, 2014 Dias 45

Quality improvements by blending. Highly overlooked Sfyra, 2014 Dias 46

Chemical profiling of Rondo, Regent, Bolero and Cabernet Cortis wines Alexi 2014 Dias 47

Final remarks A number of good cultivars are available The yield potential is good but not utilized by the growers The quality levels of the fruits are good From analysing the yield components of each cv it can be optimized in both yield and quality By utilizing the strong aspects of the cultivars the commercial potentials can be optimized (Yield, wine style, vinification etc) Experiment with different techniques in the cellar and utilize blending to optimize balance and overall quality. Dias 48

Acknowledgment Henrik Stenkilde, Pometet Mikael Agerlin Petersen, Aroma Nils Arneborg, microbiology Wender Bredie, Sensory Søren Balling, chemometrics FOSS Chr. Hansen Lallemand The Foundation PLAN Danmark GUDP The Wine Association Cold Hand Winery Frederiksdal