D egustazione S torica

gustazione rica ffè e metodi di estrazione l 1900 a oggi Historical tasting D egustazione S torica Coffee Vivere and la sthe toria extraction methods dell espresso from the 900 to the in prima present persona day. 1

INTRODUCTION INTRODUZIONE How many opportunities have you had in your life to sip Quante a cup of possibilità coffee like the avete one avuto your great-grandparents nella vostra vita did? sorseggiare Perhaps none, un because caffè preparation come quello methods dei vostri have bisavoli? to Forse such an nessuna, extent that perché Italian i metodi Espresso, di while preparazione having inheri- si changed sono ted the modificati genetic code, a tal has punto an extremely che l Espresso different Italiano, appearance pur avendone from the one ereditato people were il codice drinking genetico, at the beginning ha un aspetto of the estremamente last century. diverso da quello che si beveva all inizio del secolo scorso. Per To fully comprendere understand come how we si have è giunti reached alla tazzina the point ornata of having una a coffee crema cup color ornated nocciola with con a hazel-colored riflessi fulvi, cream un corpo with di importante a reflection of e avvolgente, reddish brown un color, aroma a solid intenso body, che an intense copre l intero aroma that arco covers olfattivo, the entire Caffè olfactory Milani spectrum, ha estratto Caffè Milani dalla propria selected esposizione from it s own macchine exhibition three di tre machines epoche from diverse, different periods, representing three basic changes, restored and rappresentative di tre cambiamenti basilari, le ha rimesse in funzione e ha studiato le miscele che con got them to work again, and studied the blends that were most likely used. buona probabilità venivano usate. Poi, Soon utilizzando after, using a un group gruppo of tasters di assaggiatori at the International dell Istituto Coffee Internazionale Tasting Institute Assaggiatori and by using the Caffè statistical e i metodi methods statistici of the del Tasting Centro Research Studi Center, Assaggiatori it has maneged le ha profilate. to profile all the Oggi blends.. è quindi in grado di offrire al consumatore attento, al barista e allo studioso un percorso esperienziale Therefore unico today nel Caffè suo genere, Milani is partendo able to offer dal its 1920 consumer, per giungere bartender all Espresso or scholar a Italiano unique experiential attuale. journey, starting from the 1900s to the current Italian Espresso. CAFFÈ MILANI CAFFÈ MILANI Caffè Milani nasce nel 1937 ed è oggi una delle torrefazioni Caffè Milani was founded in 1937 and today it is one of the leading leader. roasting Nel factories 1998 in è Italy. socio In fondatore 1998 it was dell Istituto one of the Nazionale founding partners Espresso of the Italiano Italian e Espresso nel 2017, National in occasione Institute dei and suoi in 2017, 80 for anni, the inaugura occasion of un esposizione its 80th anniversary, sul caffè it is celebrating sua storia the opening di raro of interesse a new exhibition culturale. about the world of e la info@caffemilani.it coffee and also about its own private history of rare cultural IIAC interest. L Istituto info@caffemilani.it Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè (Iiac) è stato fondato nel 1993, vanta oggi oltre 10.500 allievi residenti in 40 paesi del mondo e i suoi manuali sono IIAC stati pubblicati in 11 lingue. The International Coffee Tasting Institute (Iiac) was founded info@assaggiatoricaffe.org in 1993, boasts today over 10,500 students originally from 40 different Ricerca e countries testi di around Luigi Odello, the world grafica and its di manuals Laura Mor, have been realizzazione published del in 11 Centro languages. Studi Assaggiatori. info@assaggiatoricaffe.org I Edizione: ottobre 2017. 2

THREE CENTURIES OF RESEARCH TRE FOR SECOLI A QUICK, ALLA STRONG RICERCA AND PLEASANT DI UN CAFFÈ COFFEE RAPIDO, POTENTE E PIACEVOLE At the end of the 19th century coffee had become a part Al of tramonto the daily activity del XIX in secolo the western il caffè world c era for ed at era least entrato three nelle centuries. abitudini During degli this timeframe, occidentali many almeno systems da and tre methods secoli. Durante had been questo developed lasso in order temporale to prepare si it. erano In fact, sviluppati for least molti 300 years, sistemi the world per farlo. of coffee In pratica, worked hard per almeno to fulfill the tre three secoli, il mondo del caffè lavorò sodo per soddisfare tre basic needs which are strongly linked together: quickness, strength, and pleasure. A goal that was only reached in the necessità tra loro fortemente connesse: rapidità, forza, piacere. Obiettivo che raggiunse solo nel secolo last century with the birth of the Espresso. scorso con la nascita dell espresso. QUICKNESS LA Boil RAPIDITÀ the coffee powder at least three times or wait patiently Far for bollire the gravity la polvere force to di allow caffè the almeno hot water tre to volte seep o through aspettare a layer pazientemente of coffee making che the la drink forza free di gravità of grinds. consentisse This was the all acqua challange which calda divided attraversare coffee lovers uno all strato through di caffè the nineteenth century. la bevanda The italic priva genius di fondi? provided Era the questo solution: dilemma applying rendendo che pressure divise to per hot tutto water, il first XIX through secolo gli steam, amanti then del with caffè. compressed air, ingegno first using fornì a spring la soluzione: and finally l applicazione with a pump. del- L italico la pressione all acqua bollente, dapprima attraverso il The vapore, result? poi Twenty-five con l aria milliliters compressa, of pleasant quindi and syrupy con una coffee in only e infine 25 seconds. una pompa. molla Il risultato? Venticinque millilitri di caffè soave e sciropposo STRENGTH in 25 secondi. Strength was and still is - measured by the intensity of the LA aroma FORZA and tactile consistency (the body, or syrupy texture, whatever you wish to call it). The evolution of the espresso La forza era - ed è - valutata attraverso l intensità technique led to achieving an unprecedented strength, reducing the required coffee dose to half or even less. dell aroma e la consistenza tattile (il corpo, o sciropposità che dir si voglia). L evoluzione della tecnica espresso HEDONISM portò a ottenere una forza mai raggiunta prima Small and riducendo cuddling sips la dose that carry di caffè the aroma necessaria within alla the metà coffee o for anche a long a period meno. of time. It seemed to be an unreachable goal, but the Espresso made it possible, not only through the L EDONISMO mechanical evolution of the preparation systems but also Piccoli through sorsi the art carezzevoli of creating che blends recano by choosing per lungo the tempo best of l aroma what the contenuto tropics all over in the un world caffè: had pareva to offer. una meta irraggiungibile, ma l espresso lo rese possibile, non solo attraverso l evoluzione meccanica dei sistemi di preparazione, ma anche all arte di comporre miscele scegliendo il meglio di quanto offrivano i tropici di tutto il mondo. 3

THE VARIATION OF TASTE 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 Quick Strong Pleasant 1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 PROTO ESPRESSO TRANSITION ITALIAN ESPRESSO 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 Colour intensity Olfactive intensity Acidity Astringency Vegetable Roasted Biochemical Texture Body Bitterness Flowers/fresh Dried Spicy fruit fruits 4

THE EVOLUTION OF THE ROASTING PROCESS Humanity discovered that fire does not only affect the hygienic characteristics of food, but also the sensory aspects by increasing the pleasure, soon enough this discovery would affect also the coffee consumption methods that had evolved from boiling drupes in water to the infusion of the well roasted grains. Until the end of the 19th century, the roasting process was made by conduction method, for example, by supplying heat through materials like iron etc. The goal was achieved, but frequently the aroma was altered by empyreumatic odors and the taste was damaged by the unpleasant contrasts between bitter and acid. The use of steel spheres that rotate on a heat source, most often made of wood, improved the result of roasting for a greater homogeneity, but the true leap of quality took place after World War II, with the introduction of gas heated roasting machine in which heat transfer was entrusted to hot air. The development of Italian Espresso was synchronized with the evolution of the drum roasting machines the type that work on batchs with varying cycles of 17 to 27 minutes. Today, equipped with sophisticated software that makes the process safer, but still always supervised by an employee, who through a well-studied setting, is able to obtain from raw coffee beans which arrive from all over the world, the ideal components for composing rich, profound and intense blends. 5

THE BLEND: THE ITALIAN ART OF FINDING THE RIGHT MATCH The art of blending was developed in Italy and has been the foundation of the Italian Espresso. In fact chronologically the blend existed even before the espresso coffee machines were invented: already in 1845 the most known treatises described the best qualities of coffee in pursuit of the perfect blend and also describe how to handle the beans while roasting in order to achieve the maximum potential from a single origin coffee. The creation of a blend is not just in order to give the consumer a coffee with a constant sensorial experience or to improve the resistance of coffee under the pressure of the machine, but rather to enhance the aromatic features of a cup of coffee in a wonderful way, highlighting what every type, variety and region has to offer in increasing the pleasure. 6

SEVENTY YEARS OF ITALIAN ESPRESSO BUON GOOD TASTE GUSTO Conquistatori Conquerors first, prima, then conquistati conquered by poi, others, l Italia Italy has è da been milleni for millenniums crogiolo della the melting estetica pot del of good gusto taste and aesthetics INGEGNO TALENT Non Not just solo mechanical elementi elements, meccanici, but a ma wise selezionbination e unione and selection sapiente of di the caffè coffee di tutto arriving com- il from mondo all regions per dare of the piacere world a to basso give you costo pleasure and satisfaction at low cost POVERTÀ OPTIMIZATION Risparmiare Saving hot water acqua and calda coffee e caffè (from(da 13/15 13/15 g to g 5/7 a 5/7 g) without g) senza sacrificing ridurre the il piacere pleasure 7

1900 1940 THE COFFEE OF THE STEAM DRIVEN MACHINE THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD OF COFFEE 1899 The invention of the vacuum-sealing Method: increases the shelf life of the coffee. 1901 Bezzera registers the first model of coffee machines adequate for coffee shops. 1906 Benzene is the caffeine solvent in the first decaffeinated coffee. 1908 Melitta Benz creates the first coffee filter with a simple pan with a hole in it and blotting paper. 1933 Alfonso Bialetti creates the Moka Express. THE STEAM MACHINE In 1901 thanks to Luigi Bezzera, the era of vertical steam machines began, most fascinating thanks to their impressive structure. The trend of drinking coffee in the coffee shops had spread, where its prepared and served instantly. In the steam macchine the extraction process starts with a first passage of boiling water on the grounded coffee when the coffee maker begins to drip, you close the water tap and open the steam, which pushes the water to go through the coffee in the filter and into the cup. One minute of waiting and the drink can be served. 8

THE COFFEE By the middle of the 19th century, Arabica is the only variety of cultivated coffee available and Brazil gains most of the world s production thanks to its wide availability of fertile lands. Due to a roya epidemic, a fungus that causes serious damage to coffee plant and ultimately killing it, begins the search for new varieties that can withstand this parasite in the Coffea Canephora (Robusta). In Italy, during the Second World War, the importation of goods is stopped and coffee is replaced with substitutes such as chicory, hibiscus tea and barley. When the conflict is over, the coffee makes a comeback and with it the pleasure of going to the coffee shop and enjoying an instant coffee. In the cup the coffee looks like a black beverage mostly free of cream at the surface due to the coarse grinding of the beans and high temperature during the preparation process. Overall positive odours Colour intensity Overall negative Texture odours Olfactive intensity Biochemical Body Spicy Acidity Roasted Bitterness Dried fruits Astringency Vegetable Flowers/ fresh fruit 9

1950 THE COFFEE OF THE LEVER MACHINE THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD OF COFFEE 1947 Achille Gaggia invents and patents the lever machine. 1947 The Espresso as we know it today, was born. 1950 In America, instant coffee is introduced into homes and sales increase. At the work place coffee break become a daily habit. THE SPRING PISTON LEVER MACHINE The lever machine was assembled in 1938 by Achille Gaggia a bartender from Milan who patented the lever system by launching the crema caffè technology. Ten years later a large-scale production of this revolutionary bar machinery is launched. The pressure inside the machine is created by a piston driven by a spring, both connected to a lever; lowering the lever the spring is compressed and the hot water fills the cylinder chamber underneath, coming into contact with the blend in the filter holder and paving the way for the pre-infusion. When releasing the lever, the spring pushes the piston creating pressure and forcing the hot water to pass through the ground coffee, obtaining a dense, syrupy beverage with a persistent cream on the surface. 10

THE COFFEE Due to post-war aftermath and climate reasons, finding raw materials is difficult and for this reason the coffee price increases. African countries are focusing their work on the cultivation of Robusta as a source of self-sustainment and profit. In Italy, with the distribution of the lever machine, Espresso was born and became the symbol of made in Italy. From an elite product, coffee became a common and popular drink consumed by all. In 1953, men consumed an average of 1.7 cups of coffee compared to 1.3 cups of coffee for women. The quality of the bar Espresso is superior to the home-made coffee; hence the Italian expression of good coffee like the one you drink at the bar. Overall positive odours Colour intensity Overall negative Texture odours Olfactive intensity Biochemical Body Spicy Acidity Roasted Bitterness Dried fruits Astringency Vegetable Flowers/ fresh fruit 10 11

1960 THE COFFEE OF THE A CONTINUOUS DELIVERY MACHINE THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD OF COFFEE 1961 The E61 is the first continuous delivery coffee machine. 1963 Bunn creates the machine for the automatic preparation of filtered coffee. 1964 Maxim is the first freeze-dried coffee. 1968 The single directional degassing valve revolutionizes the coffee packaging in the world. THE CONTINUOUS DELIVERY MACHINE In 1961 Ernesto Valente designed for Faema the E61, the continuous delivery machine named after the solar eclipse of that year. This ingenious invention for the coffee world adopts a volumetric pump (instead of the compression spring of the lever machine) that allows you to prepare a perfect Espresso in simplicity. By moving a lever or by pressing a button, powering an electric motor that is connected to a pump that brings the water pressure to 9 bars, keeping it constant throughout the entire dispensing process. The espresso machine is moved from the counter to the back counter; the customer can follow the bartender s ability and technical skill during the coffee preparation. 12

THE COFFEE In this decade Brazilian natural coffee is the main component of the Italian blends; in addition to Brazil, the main exporters include Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico and Uganda. At the coffee shops the Espresso is the prominent drink during breakfast and work breaks of the Italian people. In Japan in 1950, coffee importation is officially permitted; in a few years hundreds of kissaten (coffee rooms) are opened. In the United States the coffee giants offers low quality blends, emphasizing price and brand as opposed to flavor and aroma. In 1966, Peet s Coffee & Tea opened in Berkeley California, where the Dutch Alfred Peet offered his customers quality coffee. Peet is considered the grandfather of specialty coffee. Overall positive odours Colour intensity Overall negative Texture odours Olfactive intensity Biochemical Body Spicy Acidity Roasted Bitterness Dried fruits Astringency Vegetable Flowers/ fresh fruit 13

1970 OGGI THE ITALIAN ESPRESSO THE IMPORTANT LANDMARKS IN THE WORLD OF COFFEE 1971 Starbucks inauguration. 1974 Per primo il Tea & Coffee Trade Journal parla di specialty coffee. 1982 SCAA, Specialty Coffee Association of America was born and in 1998 SCAE was born in Europe. 1993 Established IIAC, International Coffee Tasting Institute and in 1998 INEI, National Institute of Italian Espresso. 2015 ICO, International Coffee Organization establi shes the International Coffee Day on October 1 st. CUSTOMIZED EXTRACTION MACHINES Technologies applied to espresso machines allow you to customize the extraction and achieve levels of excellence in the cup. The first step is the creation of the independent group machine, it continues with the ability to change the pressure or water temperature on the coffee cake during extraction. The single portion coffee spreads in the stores with machines or dedicated groups. 14

THE COFFEE In the 1980s, in United States starts a new research for quality: in 2012, 37% of the total coffee consumption was attributed to Specialty coffee (SCA data). From the 90 s in Europe, coffee becomes a drink with a strong cultural and sensorial value. With 12.6 kilos per capita the North Europeans drink the most amount of coffee in the world, but just Arabica. In Italy the preference for lighter blends, with high percentages of Arabica is in the Center-North, darker blends and greater use of Robusta is common the South. Japan represents 11% of the world sales by value. China discovers the coffee and Espresso, the coffee shops became widespread phenomena and the coffee culture grows. Australia has discovered coffee and espresso thanks to Italian immigration, that is the reason for the popularity of Latte Revolution, the brewing and also the growth of small roasters receiving massive request for specialty coffee. Overall positive odours Colour intensity Overall negative Texture odours Olfactive intensity Biochemical Body Spicy Acidity Roasted Bitterness Dried fruits Astringency Vegetable Flowers/ fresh fruit 15

gustazione rica MILANI SPA 22030 Lipomo (Co) - Via Provinciale, 811 ffè e metodi di Tel. estrazione +39 031 280778 Fax. +39 031 282762 l 1900 a oggi info@caffemilani.it - www.caffemilani.it D egustazione