2013 Red Burgundies SPECIAL - 15 PERCENT OFF on purchases of six or more bottles of 2013 Red Burgundies through December 31, 2016 NOTE: accurate as of 10/21/16 Allen Meadows on 2013 Red Burgundies: The Kind of Vintage that I Absolutely Love Belle échappée in French means a narrow or lucky escape from what looked to be all but certain disaster.grower after grower in the Côte de Nuits riffed off of this one theme that they were not only fortunate but actually down right lucky to have made anything respectable let alone in many cases very fine burgundies. This has in a way become a common theme because when you consider the growing seasons of 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011 and 2012, every one of them presented their fair share of challenges, even if those challenges were not cut from the same cloth, particularly since 2013 had the latest harvest date in the last 35 years! Before I address those challenges in more detail, I always like to get right to the point as to wine quality in my vintage summaries. And the short answer is that quality is highly, even frustratingly variable, ranging from the awful, to the acceptable, to the excellent and in a very few cases, to the genuinely sublime. But I will say that 2013 is the kind of vintage that I absolutely love. It s a burg geek s vintage par excellence. The best wines are superbly fresh and transparent as the underlying terroir is truly on parade. In fact I would go so far as to say that the terroir is so crystalline in 2013 that if nonbelievers are not persuaded by the transparency of the 2013s then they are never going to be. But laser beam-like definition is not all there is, as the wines are strikingly refreshing and while fun is often used as a pejorative descriptor when discussing serious wines, the 2013s are quite simply fun to drink. In fact, one of my favorite Burgundian sayings when describing especially appealing or interesting wines is that le premier verre appelle le deuxième or the first glass calls for the second; 2013 is the epitome of that sentiment. While I have in a sense already given away how the thrill ride that was the 2013 growing season and harvest ended, this mostly happy ending was anything but assured. In fact, 2013 was so arduous one grower quipped that 2012 was the most difficult vintage that I have ever experienced.until 2013 arrived! To make matters worse, in many cases the yields in 2013 were even smaller than they were in 2012 and remember that the yields in 2012 were generally the lowest since 2003. As was also the case in 2012 that despite all of the problems, the quality of the raw materials, and the resulting wines, are not only good but in many cases excellent. The 2013s are ultra-fresh and concentrated wines with ripe and moderately firm supporting tannins and bright but not aggressive acidities that contribute to their highly refreshing finishes. If there is one aspect of the 2013 vintage that could be nominated as the biggest surprise of all, it would be just how good the phenolic maturities are, at least among those growers that waited to pick (which as I will discuss in more detail wasn t always easy to do). Sugar ripeness levels in terms of potential alcohols were actually pretty modest at between 11 and 12%. Usually there is good to very good phenolic maturity then there are solid sugar levels too, but that wasn t necessarily the case in 2013; indeed most wines were chaptalized at least.5% and 1 to 1.5% wasn t rare. 2013 produced many really lovely wines that should provide for delicious drinking early on yet be capable of amply rewarding mid-term cellaring and in a few cases, they will be long-lived if perhaps not as long-lived as the 2010s or 2012s. The best 2013s are a joy to drink, not only because they are delicious, but also because they are capable of appealing to the intellect as well. I hesitate to call them the thinking person s burgundies but there is an element of that in the wines. To craft another comparison, they are stylistically about as far away from 2009 as one can get and still have ripe wines. To this end, if 2012 is some rough combination of 2009 and 2010, then 2013 is like a riper and better balanced 2008 or perhaps a less powerful and more approachable 2010. (Wine list starts next page)
Regular 15% Off DOMAINE ARLAUD MOREY-SAINT-DENIS Price Price 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin (Arlaud)... $ 78.00 $ 66.30 An interesting nose combines high-toned red cherry fruit and pomegranate notes with earth and sauvage hints. I like the intensity of the detailed and vibrant flavors that terminate in a moderately austere and slightly lean finish. 2019+ (86-89/100) 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Ruchots (Arlaud)... $ 115.00 $ 97.75 There is good ripeness to the structural elements underpinning the rich, delicious and palate coating flavors that deliver fine depth and length on the well-balanced finish. Note that this is more robust than usual and will also require some patience to allow the relatively firm tannins to mellow. 2023+ (90-92/100) 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (Arlaud)... $ 125.00 $ 106.25 A very spicy nose is composed of dense aromas of plum, violet, earth and pomegranate, all of which is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The beautifully textured middle weight plus flavors possess excellent power and verve on the powerful finish that is shaped by a very firm core of ripe tannins. This is a deceptive wine as the mid-palate is supple to the point of being inviting yet the finale is firm to the point of mild austerity. 2023+ (91-93/100) BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS - BEAUNE 2013 Beaune Clos de la Mousse (Bouchard)... $ 70.00 $ 59.50 Healthy dark red. Expressive aromas of cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and oak. Then juicy, tight and dry in the mouth; nicely concentrated. Firm acidity gives the wine sharp definition but the solid tannic spine gives the finish a youthful toughness. In a closed stage at the moment and likely to require several years of bottle aging upon its release. 2021-2028 (87-89/100) 2013 Le Corton (Bouchard)... $ 150.00 $ 127.50 Deep red. Wild, slightly syrah-like aromas and flavors of black raspberry, game, earth and burning cinders. Sweet, dense and thick, but with excellent energy and a fine-grained texture giving the mid-palate a distinctly suave quality. A bit withdrawn in the middle but opens up and blossoms on the broad finish, which features noble tannins. 2023-2034 (90-93/100) DOMAINE ROBERT CHEVILLON NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes (Robert Chevillon)... $ 98.00 $ 83.30 The expressive nose is deeply pitched with earth and humus character adding depth to the very fresh nose of dark currant aromas. There is good verve and delineation to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel thanks to the velvety and persistent finish. Lovely stuff that will be approachable young if desired. 2018+ (87-90/100) COCHE-DURY MEURSAULT 2013 Auxey-Duresses (Coche-Dury)... $ 240.00 $ 204.00 CORNU-CAMUS ECHEVRONNE 2013 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune (Coche-Dury)... $ 22.00 $ 18.70 DOMAINE DUBREUIL-FONTAINE PERNAND-VERGELESSES 2013 Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet (Dubreuil-Fontaine)... $ 55.00 $ 46.75 A high-toned and very expressive nose offers up notes of raspberry and strawberry that precede energetic and nicely detailed flavors that are on the lighter side but no less interesting for it as this is quite refreshing and should drink well almost immediately. 2016+ (87/100) 2013 Beaune Les Montrevenots (Dubreuil-Fontaine)... $ 58.00 $ 49.30 An essence of red pinot fruit nose is appealingly fresh with a hint of spice that can also be found on the delicious, energetic and detailed middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the firm, muscular and mildly rustic finish that delivers good depth and persistence. 2018+ (88/100)
2013 Aloxe-Corton Les Vercots (Dubreuil-Fontaine)... $ 70.00 $ 59.50 The deeply pitched and overtly sauvage inflected nose is comprised primarily by red currant, dark pinot and plenty of earth character. There is good volume and muscle to the relatively bigbodied flavors that possess a supple mid-palate where the finish then tightens up quickly. As is typically the case this is not an elegant wine but I like the frank and direct delivery. 2019+ (89/100) 2013 Corton Les Perrieres (Dubreuil-Fontaine)... $ 95.00 $ 80.75 A markedly more complex and notably more sauvage mélange of both red and dark currant is copiously fortified with notes humus, forest floor and smoke. There is excellent volume and plenty of muscular punch to the big-bodied flavors that terminate in a robust, serious, moderately tannic and solidly persistent finish. Corton-Perrières is usually one of the more rustic of the Corton grands crus and this example won't persuade anyone otherwise. 2023+ (91/100) DOMAINE VINCENT GIRARDIN MEURSAULT 2013 Santenay Les Gravières (Vincent Girardin)... $ 48.00 $ 40.80 2013 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Serpentieres (Vincent Girardin)... $ 48.00 $ 40.80 2013 Volnay Vieilles Vignes (Vincent Girardin)... $ 55.00 $ 46.75 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Clos Saint Jean (Vincent Girardin)... $ 58.00 $ 49.30 Dark red. Invigorating calcaire lift to the aromas of black cherry, violet, game and underbrush. Sweet and round in the middle, with a distinctly suave quality to the dark fruit flavors. Finishes nicely lush, with ripe tannins. 2017-2024 (88-90/100) 2013 Pommard Vieilles Vignes (Vincent Girardin)... $ 60.00 $ 51.00 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (Vincent Girardin)... $ 65.00 $ 55.25 2013 Volnay Les Santenots (Vincent Girardin)... $ 78.00 $ 66.30 Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate and licorice. Dense, sweet and seamless, with terrific mid-palate depth and subtle complexity to the black fruit and saline flavors. Harmonious acidity and fine-grained, suave tannins give this lovely wine terrific early balance. Long on the aftertaste. 2021-2030 (91-93/100) 2013 Volnay Les Champans (Vincent Girardin)... $ 78.00 $ 66.30 Bright ruby-red. Ripe aromas of cassis, licorice and spices. Moderately dense, juicy and ripe, showing an attractive sweetness and roundness to its dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and excellent length. 2020-2030 (90-92/100) 2013 Pommard Les Grands Epenots (Vincent Girardin)... $ 85.00 $ 72.25 Bright red-ruby. Superripe, slightly exotic aromas of red and black fruits, spices and licorice pastille. Big, broad and very ripe, combining a slightly high-toned character with a touch of greenness. Finishes with serious tannins that call for more élevage. This wine only finished its malolactic fermentation in August (the rest of the 2013s finished by June) and is in an awkward stage today. 2021-2030 (89-91/100) 2013 Corton Les Perrieres (Vincent Girardin)... $ 98.00 $ 83.30 Bright ruby-red. Deep, sexy nose melds cassis, smoked meat, underbrush, mocha and medicinal herbs. Very rich, supple and concentrated, with strong saline soil tones complicating the dark berry and spice flavors. Leaves the retronasal passage ringing with spices on the long, ripely tannic finish. Germain described this wine as "similar to the Volnay Champans but longer. 2021-2030 (91-93/100) HENRI GOUGES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges (Henri Gouges)... $ 70.00 $ 59.50 There is good freshness and energy to the supple and round medium-bodied flavors that possess only a touch of backend rusticity on the complex, balanced and impressively persistent finish for a villages level wine. This is really quite good for what it is and worth your attention. 2019+ (89-91/100)
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chenes Carteaux (Henri Gouges)... $ 80.00 $ 68.00 There is an unusually seductive texture to the round and surprisingly supple flavors that also retain good delineation on the dusty and mouth coating finish. This should reward up to a decade of cellar time yet be approachable after only 5 to 6. 2021+ (89-92/100) 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Clos des Porrets (Henri Gouges)... $ 95.00 $ 80.75 There is outstanding volume and density to the almost painfully intense middle weight flavors that exhibit notably better minerality on the generously proportioned, powerful and exceptionally long finish. This provides an interesting contrast in textures as the mid-palate is supple thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins yet the linear finish is robust to the point of rusticity. Note too that despite the fine grain of the tannins they are dense and firm so patience will be required. 2023+ (90-93/100) 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers (Henri Gouges)... $ 125.00 $ 106.25 There is good power and punch to the very round but imposing medium weight plus flavors that possess a sleek muscularity before culminating in a lightly mineral-inflected, palate coating and impressively persistent finish. I very much like the complexity though it's clear that this very firmly structured effort is going to require an extended stay in a cool cellar. Classic Pruliers. 2025+ (91-93/100) DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2013 Bourgogne Rouge Les Deux Terres (Liger-Belair)... $ 25.00 $ 21.25 2013 Bourgogne Rouge Les Grands Chaillots (Liger-Belair)... $ 36.00 $ 30.60 2013 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes (Liger-Belair)... $ 36.00 $ 30.60 There is good freshness and verve to the dense and structured medium-bodied flavors thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract, all wrapped in a powerful, serious and long finish. This is a rustic and old school Moulin-a-Vent but if you have the patience this is well worth your attention. 2020+ (89-91/100) 2013 Moulin-a-Vent La Roche (Liger-Belair)... $ 45.00 $ 38.25 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin La Croix des Champs (Liger-Belair)... $ 90.00 $ 76.50 A notably floral nose offers notes of plum, freshly turned earth and red currant scents. I very much like the underlying tension and fine delineation of the middle weight flavors that also exude a fine bead of minerality on the mildly austere and rustic finish. This is notably more structured than the Charmotte and will need a few years of cellaring first. 2020+ (88-90/100) 2013 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas (Liger-Belair)... $ 120.00 $ 102.00 There is excellent richness and volume to the seductively textured flavors that possess good mid-palate fat before concluding in a clean, saline and balanced finish. This is very Vosne in character and should also be approachable in its youth. 2019+ (88-90/100) 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers (Liger-Belair)... $ 165.00 $ 140.25 A notably floral nose also exhibits good spice on the primarily red berry fruit aromas. There is good vibrancy to the markedly generous yet detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess fine complexity on the lightly saline-inflected and solidly persistent finish. Lovely. 2021+ (90-92/100) 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges (Liger-Belair)... $ 165.00 $ 140.25 A floral, cool and unusually airy nose offers up notes of plum, red berries and pungent earth that exhibits barely discernible hints of wood spice. There is good muscle to the powerful and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors that offer excellent richness and drive on the strikingly long, well-balanced and beautifully well-delineated finish. 2025+ (91-94/100) 2013 Corton Les Renardes (Liger-Belair)... $ 210.00 $ 178.50 A classic Renardes nose is both complex and overtly sauvage as it offers up notes of relatively elegant red and black pinot fruit. There is fine intensity to the muscular yet round and generously proportion flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the velvety finish. This really builds from the mid-palate and delivers excellent length. 2023+ (90-93/100)
2013 Clos Vougeot (Liger-Belair)... $ 265.00 $ 225.25 There is excellent volume to the impressively rich and punchy medium weight plus flavors that deliver very fine length on the energetic, firm and quite serious finish that is a bit less youthfully austere than usual. This is blessed with good underlying material and should mature well. 2025+ (91-94/100) 2013 Charmes-Chambertin (Liger-Belair)... $ 265.00 $ 225.25 MONGEARD-MUGNERET VOSNE-ROMANÉE 2013 Bourgogne Rouge (Mongeard-Mugneret)... $ 28.00 $ 23.80 2013 Fixin (Mongeard-Mugneret)... $ 48.00 $ 40.80 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin (Mongeard-Mugneret)... $ 65.00 $ 55.25 2013 Vosne-Romanée (Mongeard-Mugneret)... $ 65.00 $ 55.25 2013 Chambolle-Musigny (Mongeard-Mugneret)... $ 68.00 $ 57.80 A very fresh, cool and restrained nose exhibits notes of assorted red berries that are trimmed in gentle earth nuances. The equally cool and restrained middle weight flavors possess fine delineation on the lightly stone-inflected finish. My guess is that this will round out in time. 2018+ (86-89/100) DOMAINE DE MONTILLE VOLNAY 2013 Beaune Les Sizies (de Montille)... $ 75.00 $ 63.75 An expressive and deeply pitched nose is composed by notes of dark currant, earth, violets and forest floor. There is solid density and intensity to the vibrant, detailed and lightly mineralinflected medium weight flavors that exhibit only a touch of austerity on the finish. The tannins are angular but ripe and this should reward mid-term cellaring. 2019+ (89-91/100) 2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Thorey (de Montille)... $ 115.00 $ 97.75 There is a touch of the sauvage to the fresh and cool red and dark berry fruit aromas that are freely interlaced with earth and forest floor elements. Like many of the wines in the range there is a really lovely palate feel to the vibrant and lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine complexity and solid length on the balanced finale. There is some youthful austerity present but it should pass with a few years of bottle age. 2021+ (90-92/100) 2013 Corton Clos du Roi (de Montille)... $ 220.00 $ 187.00 This is notably more sauvage in character with abundant spice and floral elements add a touch of elegance to the otherwise frank and rustic aromas of mostly dark berry fruit. There is both excellent volume and richness to the muscular and powerful big-bodied flavors that possess excellent depth and length. This is a classic example of Clos du Roi and should age accordingly. 2025+ (92-94/100) 2013 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts (de Montille)... $ 375.00 $ 318.75 LA POUSSE D OR VOLNAY 2013 Chambolle-Musigny (La Pousse d Or)... $ 95.00 $ 80.75 This is very elegant with its agreeably airy and pure aromas that combine notes of plum, violet, sandalwood, exotic tea and discreet spice nuances. There is equally good purity to the mineral-inflected and beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors that deliver solid persistence on the balanced and refined finale. This is very Chambolle in character but with plenty of punch. 2019+ (89/100) 2013 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d Or (La Pousse d Or)... $ 125.00 $ 106.25 An airy, cool and admirably pure nose offers up notes of exotic tea, spice, earth and layered red berry fruit aromas. The appealingly textured medium weight flavors are notably fine thanks to the fine-grained tannins that shape the utterly delicious finish that is underpinned by vibrant but not drying acidity. This is lovely and should amply reward 8 to 10 years of cellaring. 2021+ (91/100)
2013 Volnay Clos des 60 Ouvrées (La Pousse d Or)... $ 140.00 $ 119.00 Here the expressive nose is almost as elegant and even spicier with its dark pinot fruit, sandalwood and floral-scented aromas. There is the same lovely texture to the vibrant medium weight flavors that possess admirable mid-palate concentration before terminating in a palate coating, youthfully austere and firmly structured finish. This will clearly need plenty of cellar time to soften the firm tannic spine yet it should be approachable after only 5 to 7 years. 2023+ (92/100) 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes (La Pousse d Or)... $ 250.00 $ 212.50 The nose is more deeply pitched still with its dark currant liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with notes of anise, clove, dried tangerine peel and lavender. There is excellent volume and complexity to the wonderfully refined medium-bodied flavors thanks to the dense but very fine-grained tannins that also shape the impressively persistent, harmonious and lingering finish. 2025+ (93/100)