Bordeaux 1980-1987 By Derek Smedley MW Last Updated 6/10/2017 Derek Smedley MW, Rectory Cottage, Lilley, Hertfordshire, LU2 8LU. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 Tasting notes from the following growers: Contents 1981... 3 1982... 3 1983... 6 1985... 9 1986... 11 1987... 15 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 2
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 Bordeaux 1980-1987 See date & place of tasting in italics 1981 Hopes were high in Bordeaux in the summer of 1981 with hopes of a good if not great vintage. The flowering in spring had been untroubled and although July was cool the fruit ripened well through a warm and dry August and September. The harvest began in the last few days of September under good conditions but the first two weeks of October were a disappointment dogged by rain leading to a certain amount of dilution with a subsequent reduction in the quality. Nevertheless, reliable châteaux still managed to fashion some stylish, classic wines, with medium body and good structure and although not highly rated at least prices were reasonable. Claret 5/10 Drink Now / Past Best Sauternes 5/10 Past Best Sauternes Château de Rayne Vigneau 1er Cru 88 2014-18 Tasted at the J & B Dinner in Brick Street July 2014 The apricot orange peel mix on the nose is underpinned by hazel nut and almonds. The start of the palate is rich but the mid palate lighter with fresher tropical fruits and the finish is lean quite light apricots and almonds. 1982 This is one of the outstanding vintages and that was the feeling En-Primeur and not just because it came after a pretty dire period. Perhaps Margaux and Graves are the weakest but the majority are the most complex and profound wines produced since the classic 1961 vintage. Maybe 2000, 2005 and 2009 exceed 1982 in class but it remains as one of the greats, particularly considering the technology available in the vineyard and the cellar. The weather was beneficial throughout 3 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 the whole of the growing season but what made the vintage outstanding was the exceptionally warm weather that Bordeaux enjoyed in September, with average temperatures ranging between 29-40 degrees. This produced a huge crop of wines of exceptional richness and ripeness, with some wines possessing an almost Californian- like character. The wines of the Right Bank were outstanding, with Pétrus producing one of its finest wines ever whilst in the Médoc, Pauillac and Saint-Julien were the most successful communes, with Mouton Rothschild and Latour being arguably the two finest châteaux. Claret 10/10 Drink Now Sauternes 3/10 Past Best Saint-Estèphe Château Montrose 2eme Cru 96 2013-20 Tasted at Haberdashers July 2013 Brooding black fruits dominate the nose a lovely depth of flavour. Cassis and black cherry are backed by liquorice and coffee beans power richness but towards the back the bramble influence gives a lighter feel and the finish has the cedar wood hint of maturity. Château Les Ormes de Pez 91 1994-2014 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 The nose has the nuttiness of maturity, the fruit is sweet and the mix of red fruits gives real complexity. Still has real power on the finish. Pauillac Château Batailley 5eme Cru 96 1994-2018 Tasted in Lincoln s Inn 2010 The nose although it has fruit sweetness is refined and elegant. Blackcurrant is very much to the fore but underpinning is fresh bilberry and richer bramble. Hints of toffee give richness on both nose and palate backed by mature cedar pencil the combination giving a stylish elegance on the finish. Château Lafite 1er Cru 97 2013-24 Tasted at the Oxford & Cambridge Club October 2013 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 4
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 The nose is amazingly fresh quite light at the start but fills out with air contact lots of cassis. Bilberry and bramble refresh the start of the palate but the mid palate is richer sweet fruited cassis and black cherry backed by chocolate and coffee. The long finish has a fragrant charm. Château Mouton-Rothschild 1er Cru 97 2013-23 Tasted at the Oxford & Cambridge Club October 2013 There is depth of fruit on the nose and power of fruit on the start of the palate. Cassis and black cherry are rich depth of flavour a powerful mix that enriches the mid palate. It is lighter towards the back with nutty fragrances a hint of red fruits and the finish has length elegance and charm. Graves Rouge Château Haut Brion 1er Cru 96 1996-2020 Tasted at Boodle s (Farr Vintners) March 2007 This wine has taken a long time to show its paces, hiding behind rather firm tannins. Now all that is past. The nose has the fragrance of woodland violets and the palate a rich mix of bramble and bilberry. Beautifully balanced, the sumptuous flavours flow over the palate, and the fruit lasts for a very long time Tasted in London October 2009 98 1996-2018 The fragrance of nutty maturity features on the nose underpinned by a complex mix of black fruits. The flavours on the palate are complicated and lush, cassis and sloe backed by liquorice and coffee beans. There is so much going on in the mid palate, layers of flavours. Although mouth fillingly lush it has a charming fragrance giving it real elegance. Saint-Emilion Château Coutet Grand Cru 90 1994-2012 Tasted in Newmarket June 2007 The ripeness of the year shows on the nose, full sweet with fleshy bilberry and blackcurrant. The fruit on the palate has maturity, coffee beans and eucalyptus show behind the chocolaty black fruit. The complex flavours linger long and right at the back is the cedar wood and old leather of maturity. 5 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 Sauternes Château Piada 89 1998-2014 Tasted in London June 2008 Piada picked at the right moment and although quite light feels ripe and has a touch of the pourriture noble character. The nose is a mix of orange peel and apricots given a flowery twist by the acacia character. On palate there was an attractive depth of fruit, honey sweetness and then some racy lemon flavours, just that hint of pain grillé at the end. Barsac Château Climens 1ert Cru 92 Tasted in Bordeaux March 2000 Ripe fruit the nose is honeyed with candied peel richness the palate fleshy and sweet at the start. Fresher at the back an attractive fragrant mix of flavours the ripe fruits the apricots and candied peel give richness and depth on the finish. 1983 The good weather in June, which ensured a good flowering, was followed by a hot dry July. Whilst August was hot there were periods of rain producing fears of rot but as September and October were warm and dry the fears subsided and the grapes ripened well. The crop had the potential to be large but selection ensured that quality came before quantity. Claret 6/10 Drink Now Sauternes 9/10 Drink Now / Past Best Saint-Estèphe Château de Pez 93 2015-20 Tasting in Clophill November 2015 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 6
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 The nose has a hint of leafy maturity the palate starts fresh but there is mid richness some ripe cassis and firmer black cherry. Lighter at the back fragrant, stylish and showing maturity yet the finish has sweetness and depth. Pauillac Forts de Latour 93 1990-2012 2 nd wine of Château Latour Tasted at the Château May 1989 Tasted at the Château September 1989 There are lots of black fruits on the nose cassis and black cherry with some fresher bilberry behind. Although the mid palate is firm the tannins feel ripe not aggressive allowing the fruit to show. The dark chocolate and coffee give an added richness towards the back. Château Latour 95 1998-2025 Tasted at the Château May 1989 Tasted at the Château September 1989 There is a lot of concentrated fruit on the nose rich black cherry and sloe with lots of blackcurrant behind. The palate is profound serious and the powerful black fruits backed by dark chocolate and coffee beans. The back palate is rich and deep given an added complexity by the spiciness of cedar wood and oak. Château Pichon-Lalande 2eme Cru 92 2000-14 Tasted in London at the MMD tasting January 2010 The nose has the cedar wood of maturity, lovely and fragrant. Black fruits intermingle with red on the palate with cassis very much in evidence towards the back. The fruit is sweet giving a nice weight of flavour on the finish. Margaux Château Brane-Cantenac 2eme Cru 92 2017-22 7 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 Tasted at the Château April 2017 Fragrant leafy the nose has charm the palate a bramble and blueberry mix. The start of the palate is fresh but it fills out in the middle with cassis and cherry and the finish has the leafy nutty fragrance of maturity with flavours that linger. There is still a remarkable youthfulness. Château Giscours 3ème Cru 92 2000-14 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2008 The animal black truffle of maturity is there on the nose and shows at the start of the palate. Fresher fruit comes through in the middle with sweeter deeper cassis and chocolate fleshing out the back, layers of fruit all adding to the complexity. Château Margaux 1er Cru 96 2013-24 Tasted at the Oxford & Cambridge Club October 2013 The nose is quite light fragrant with red fruits tending to dominate the fruit backed by nutty leafy fragrances. The mid palate is rich a lovely depth of flavour with a mix of red and black fruits although the red seem to dominate the back palate. The finish is lighter with a fragrant charm. Château Rauzan-Ségla 97 2013-25 Tasted at the Château May 2013 There is a lot of power on the nose all very black fruit in character. The palate starts with the same richness of fruit cassis and black cherry yet under the powerful mix there is some bilberry and bramble that refreshes. The finish has a lovely mix of fruits sweetness yet freshness with a hint of leafy maturity. Pomerol Château Petrus 96 2013-23 Tasted at the Oxford & Cambridge Club October 2013 Ripe plum fleshy black fruits give richness on the nose and depth on the palate. Black fruits dominate a mass of damsons with slightly fresher black cherry. The fruit is ripe lush underpinned by lighter fresher red fruits. There is an amazing freshness and although mature still a youthful feel. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 8
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 1985 As Bordeaux emerged from its Arctic winter there were fears that it would be another 1956 fears that on the whole were luckily unfounded. Thus the curtain rose on a summer that started well and was to improve as it went along and finished magnificently. The only summer that had been drier was 1929. All this meant that the grapes were in excellent condition at harvest time. Not all the wines achieved the greatness that appeared to be there as some Cabernet were picked too early and there was not enough selection in the vineyard but having said all this there are some attractive harmonious and quite opulent wines. Claret 8/10 Drink Now Sauternes 3/10 Past Best Pauillac Château Latour 1er Cru 97 2014-25 Tasted at the J & B Dinner in Brick Street July 2014 Brooding black fruits rich and ripe both nose and palate has depth of flavour. Cassis and black cherry are backed by sloe and liquorice a rich powerful mix of flavours. Although there is structure firm tannins the fruit power the richness of the black fruits packs out the back palate. Tasted at Château Rauzan-Ségla April 2016 (magnum) 97 2016-26 Rich on the nose the start of the palate has depth a brooding mix of black fruits. There is balance slightly lighter in the middle a mix of cassis and bramble yet the back palate has the richness of sloe and dark chocolate. The cedar wood fragrances on the finish give a lighter feel stylish with flavours that linger. Château Lynch-Bages 5eme Cru 96 2016-24 Tasted at the Château April 2016 Nutty fragrant leafy on the nose the palate starts with sweet black fruit richness and depth. Bramble and bilberry give mid freshness bright and light but at the back there is concentrated richness sweet fruit the finish has depth of flavour. Saint-Julien Château Talbot 4eme Cru 92 2001-22 Tasted in Leathersellers Hall July 2001 9 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 The fruit on the nose is rich and ripe the palate has depth of flavour. The tannins are firm but ripe the back palate has depth a mix of cassis and black cherry the finish a hint of cedar wood Margaux Château Palmer 3eme Cru 96 2013-24 Tasted at Haberdashers July 2013 The nose has a fresher lighter more feminine feel and although the bramble and bilberry give the feeling of lightness and elegance there is a lot of rich fruit on the mid palate powerful flavours suppleness and depth of fruit. Cassis enriches the back palate with the fruit lingering on the long finish. Graves Rouge Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 94 2015-24 Tasted at the Château September 2015 Tasted at the Château November 2015 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn June 2017 94 2017-25 The nose has the complexity of red and black fruits a fragrant gamey hint of maturity. The fruit on the palate is sweet the mid palate has depth with fine tannins a black fruited mix. Dark chocolate adds to the mid richness the generosity lighter and fresher at the back a hint of farmyards the finish long and stylish. Château La Mission Haut-Brion 96 2011-23 Tasted at the MW tasting London February 2011 There is a very concentrated mix of fruits on the nose with cassis to the fore but behind it black and red cherry. Although quite firm the tannins feel ripe allowing the fruit to show to advantage. Richness of flavour is there in the middle with a more fragrant feel towards the back hints of coffee beans and just a touch of oak. Saint-Emilion Château Tertre Roteboeuf 98 2011-20 Tasted at the Château April 2011 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 10
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 The tobacco that overlays the red fruits gives to the nose an attractive fragrance. The richness of the fruit packs out the palate the layers of flavour giving lots of complexity. Red cherry and mulberry are backed by bramble it is lovely and savoury with forest leaf coming through on the long finish. 1986 The summer started so well that the fears of trouble ahead loomed large. May was fine June ideal for the flowering, July hot and dry and although there was rain in August it still left the three months June to August the driest for 20 years. The first two weeks of September were dry and when the rains came they were in short sharp often violent showers not a persistent downpour. Having purged themselves the clouds rolled away leaving good weather during the first two weeks of October and there was little rain until the 22 nd of October. The humidity in the soil from the rain on the 23 rd September ensured quality in Sauternes. This is a Médoc vintage with the communes of Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe producing the finest wines. The best wines are typically reserved and tannic, yet possess marvellous poise, concentration and power. Drinking beautifully now, but the top wines have many more years of life. Claret 8.5/10 Drink Now Sauternes 8/10 Drink Now Saint-Estèphe Château Cos d Estournel 2eme Cru 96 2005-24 Tasted in Benington February 2010 The nose is fleshed out with powerful blackcurrant and black plum. The ripeness of the fruit gives richness on the palate; the layers of flavour give complexity. There is some mid freshness, bilberry and black cherry but with the roundness of the tannins the back palate is mouth filling rich lots of ripe sweet fruit. Pauillac 11 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 Château Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru 95 2010-20 Tasted at Dyers Hall November 2010 There is an attractive freshness about the nose a mix of red fruits. Behind the freshness there are layers of richer black fruits giving lots of complexity. The back palate feels lighter lovely and fragrant and the fruits linger on the finish. It has richness yet a delightful elegance. Château Pichon-Longueville-Lalande 2eme Cru 96 2015-30 Tasted at Haberdashers February 2015 The tannin of its youth has integrated the nose is opulent the palate rich with lots of cassis and black cherry. Supple and fleshy in the middle the richness balanced by fresher bramble the back palate profound deep with just a hint of spicy oak. Saint-Julien Château Léoville Barton 2eme Cru 95 2001-28 Tasted in Leathersellers Hall July 2001 Rich fruit on the nose the palate has concentration depth of flavour a mix of cassis and black cherry backed by dark chocolate. The fruit at the back is underpinned by cedar wood the finish has richness and length. Margaux Chateau d Angludet 91 2011-20 Tasted in Little Offley New Year s Eve 2011 The nose is very black fruited in character with cassis backed by firmer black cherry. The palate has good depth of flavour the black fruits underpinned by a touch of liquorice. The tannins although firm are not aggressive give structure but do not hold back fruit expression. Château Desmirail 93 2009-18 Tasted in Rome March 2008 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 12
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 Black fruits dominate the nose rich with depth of flavour the palate packed with cassis and black cherry. Sweet fruit and ripe tannins the mid palate is fleshy and supple but at the back fresher black fruits underpin the finish long and stylish. Château Margaux 1er Cru 96 2010-20 Tasted at Mercers Hall April 2010 The nose is very blackberry fruited sweet and rich yet with an underlying freshness. There are hints of maturity on the nose a touch of cedar wood but it adds to the complexity. The palate has lovely cassis and bramble flavours with fresher bilberry and red cherry at the back. There is length of fruit, the sweetness backed by both freshness and firmness. Haut-Médoc Château La Lagune 3eme Cru 91 2014-18 Tasted at Innholders Hall September 2014 The black fruited mix on the nose is quite rich the start of the palate has lots of cassis and black cherry. There is freshness towards the back more of a bilberry and bramble character but it finishes with a nice weight of fruit. Graves Rouge Domaine de Chevalier 92 2017-21 Tasted in Lincoln s Inn June 2017 The black fruits on the nose have a savoury character the start of the palate is quite fresh. Richer in the middle cassis and black cherry and although there is sweet fruit at the back the finish is fresh firm with black cherries and sloes. Château La Louvière 91 2012-17 Tasted at the Lurton Tasting The Brigade London June 2012 Ripe cassis and blackberry give sweetness on the nose and a fleshy richness on the start of the palate. The mid palate is firmer with more black cherry in evidence. The tannins are well handled give structure but not holding back fruit expression. There is an added complexity coming from the maturity of the fruit on the finish. 13 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 Graves Blanc Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 93 2015-20 Tasted at the Château November 2015 The nose has depth the palate a mix of rich fruit tropical fruits and orange peel. Citrus in the middle balances the layers of flavour giving complexity with the rich fruit filling out the back palate and although the finish has depth there is freshness with just a hint of maturity. Pomerol Château Montviel 91 2010-18 Tasted in Bordeaux March 2010 Red fruits tend to dominate both nose and palate showing the nutty edge of maturity. Towards the back there is more flesh with a touch of black plum and black cherry. The finish has a youthful freshness the fruit lasting well on the back palate. Château Trotanoy 94 2015-20 Tasted at Haberdashers February 2015 Black plums the nose is fleshy and sweet and the start of the palate has depth of fruit. The mid palate is lighter more bramble and bilberry yet it does fill out at the back velvety and supple. The finish is beginning to show hints of nutty maturity. Vieux Château Certan 95 2011-25 Tasted at Château de Sours Bordeaux April 2011 The nose has the richness and sweetness of black plums and this fruit power fleshes out the palate. It is deep profound but towards the back there is some red fruit freshness. The tannins are ripe adding to the suppleness. Sauternes Château de Rayne-Vigneau 1er Cru 92 2011-20 Tasted in the Carlton Club July 2011 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 14
BORDEAUX 1980-1987 July 14, 2012 There is a great deal happening on the nose lots of ripe flavours. On the palate the rich dates and caramelized orange peel are underpinned by fleshy apricot lovely, lush and ripe fruited then towards the back hints of spice and botrytis add to the complexity. Château d Yquem1er Cru Supérieur 94 2016-27 Tasted in Lincoln s Inn July 2016 Spiced apricots there is a lot happening on the nose the start of the palate has a mix of tropical fruits quite light. Richer in the middle mango, pineapple and candied orange peel honeyed. Lighter at the back length of flavour the finish has a nutty botrytis spiciness. 1987 The weather through spring and summer was good with August and September being the hottest and driest for 20 years. It was October that ruined the crop with the first two weeks of October suffering incessant rain and cold days. All this meant dilution and un-ripeness producing wines with little charm. Claret 4/10 Past Best Sauternes 2/10 Past Best Pauillac Château Latour 92 2001-20 Tasted at the Château May 1989 Tasted at the Château September 1989 The nose is lighter fragrant but lacking a bit of depth. The start of the palate feels fresh not so intense but towards the middle richer more powerful black fruits emerge. Cassis dominates but this is enough black cherry and liquorice to give an underlying richness and more weight on the finish. Pomerol Château Clinet 93 2011-24 Tasted at Bordeaux Index London February 2011 15 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
July 14, 2012 BORDEAUX 1980-1987 The mix of black fruits on the nose has an underlying sweetness but the palate feels fresher still remarkably youthful. Towards the back black plum comes through enriching but the hints of red fruits on the finish refresh and give elegance. Derek Smedley MW www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 16