Robert Sinskey Vineyards PINOT NOIR, FOUR VINEYARDS, LOS CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY, 2012
WINE IMITATES LIFE... by Rob Sinskey with all its contradictions! History is full of contradictions. The French helped the fledgling American colonies kick some Redcoat butt during the revolutionary war, yet the Brits were the largest consumers of French wine. They liked it so much that they had to set sail in search of alternative sources to French wines, discovering Port in Oporto, Portugal. The Brits had such a voracious thirst for great vinous libations that the wine trade helped define modern shipping terminology and measures. A ton comes from the weight of a large (a tunne ) barrel of wine and a tierce of wine defines the size of a modern barrel of oil. Even though the French were losing market share to the Portuguese, they spent the modern equivalent of thirteen billion dollars to defeat the British but that could not keep the Brits away from great claret. They eventually returned to buy even more wine and, in some cases, the Chateau itself. The French revolutionary slogan of liberty, equality, fraternity is a serial contradiction. They said they wanted everyone to be equal, yet their fraternity did not allow women to vote. Les Femmes had to fight for their rights. Today, some of the best French wine is produced by vignerons who happen to be female. Then there is that thing called Liberty France has more rules controlling the production of wine than just about anywhere else. There is little freedom to experiment. Over time, regions became defined by a specific variety or a mix of varieties. It is illegal to plant something like Gamay in Côte-d Or Burgundy where Pinot Noir is king even though Beaujolais is not far down the autoroute and Gamay might arguably produce a better wine than Pinot Noir in some Côte-d Or Burgundian locations! Thomas Jefferson, while busy defining our individual freedoms and a life free of the shackles of the Old World, looked to traditional France for wine inspiration. Ignoring the local grape varieties that would have performed well in Virginia, Jefferson opted instead to grow the more challenging French vinifera that floundered and eventually failed several times over during his lifetime. Today, Virginia is making some pretty good wine using French selections of Bordeaux, Rhone and Burgundian varieties. I am an American who enjoys his freedoms as much as anyone else, yet I too look to the restrictive Old World wine regions like France for vinous inspiration. Arguably, we Americans have too much freedom. The all bets are off, we can do as we please approach is very American and very industrial. There is a school of thought that believes anything and everything should be done to make wine more predictably appealing to the masses. That might be a good idea if you are talking about affordable wines. However, sometimes you need to create restrictions to define a style and make a wine of character. We are fortunate for the most part to have great weather to fully ripen our grapes almost every season. However, we need to find selections that struggle in our weather in order to synchronize maturation cycles with our growing season to maintain the natural acidity that gives a wine life. If the grapes sugar up too soon, we end up with sweet fat grapes that lack zing. We choose to farm organically which forces us be proactive in our approach yet, at the same time we must learn to manage acceptable losses and co-habitate with a small amount of pestilence. The most important decision we make is to not do something. We do not ferment any grapes that we don t grow ourselves. We choose to let the wine be what it wants to be - drawing the line at anything that would change its character. This usually means eschewing anything that would impart a foreign character on Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2
Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 3
the grapes during fermentation like aromatic yeasts, sugar, concentrates, enzymes, coloring agents or artificial flavorings - all are forbidden in the RSV cellar. In addition, post fermentation manipulation, like de-alcoholization, is considered evil. A wine is the sum of its parts in other words, a wine is defined by the characteristics imparted on it by the weather and the land. We live in the modern world yet we choose inspiration from a time when technology was nonexistent. If we looked at things in reverse, if we were living in the past, would we choose technology to correct perceived problems in our wine? You betcha we would. However, we have the ability to look to the past and selectively embrace older techniques that we feel makes for more interesting wines. We have the luxury of having a choice to do or not do something. Sometimes it is the contradictions and hardships that define character in this case, wine imitates life. Winegrowing Notes The Four Vineyards Pinot Noir is a romantic vision. Culled from RSV s four organic vineyards on the Napa Valley side of the Carneros, these vineyards are planted with heirloom massal selections of Pinot Noir that have been refined by trial and error over the last thirty years. These heirlooms, in combination with late ripening French clones, provide the palette to create an elegant, balanced, and ethereal Pinot Noir. The Four Vineyards span the Carneros from the Vandal Vineyard at the foothills of Mount Veeder to the Three Amigos Vineyard near the estuaries of San Francisco Bay. Each vineyard has its own distinct micro-climate and each selection of Pinot Noir on each site responds uniquely to vintage. RSV can then choose, from thirty-two different selections, the most expressive and complimentary in the creation of a quietly powerful Pinot Noir. The antithesis of 2011, 2012 was one of the driest winters on record, saved only by a March Miracle spring rain. When the clouds cleared, it laid the groundwork for near perfect flowering conditions. The exceptional growing season culminated in just about perfect ripening weather that allowed for great concentration and flavor development with lower potential alcohols. Each block was harvested at night and brought into the cellar at dawn. Destemmed, it either went into small, open top fermenters and was hand punched or into stainless steel tanks and cap irrigated. Most lots spontaneously fermented with feral yeast. Once each lot achieved dryness, it was put to bed in French oak barrels, both new and older (up to 3 years old), and aged in the RSV caves for one year. Tasting Notes The Four Vineyards Pinot Noir is conscientiously restrained. It doesn t scream, look at me! rather, it insinuates itself as it slowly opens in the glass, drawing you closer as it becomes a seductive dinner companion. The difference between good and great Pinot Noir is about 45 minutes. When first poured, the wine is tight with aromas and flavors of earth, tea, and cedar, with a slight hint of rich red fruit. Ten minutes later, there s an abundance of red fruits - cherry, raspberry, and cranberry. A little more swirling in the glass reveals a complex blend of fruits, dried flower, and orange zest with a bright mouth watering structure backed by a core of firm tannin. We rarely recommend decanting Pinot Noir but, if this wine is to be consumed in the short term, a good decant will please the impatient. Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 4
OPEN SESAME It was by chance that I discovered Pinot Noir had an affinity for sesame. I was eating duck udon with a few drops of toasted sesame oil when I took a sip of Pinot. Boom! The sesame worked perfectly with the Pinot. It was the happiest of accidents. I put the Pinot up against sesame again and again seeds, tahini, toasted and untoasted oil and it worked beautifully. Tahini, a wonderful expression of sesame is a thick, smooth paste derived from ground sesame seeds. It has a rich, nutty flavor with an incredibly creamy texture. Tahini in the following recipes brings sesame to your table to enjoy with the beauty of RSV s Four Vineyards Pinot Noir. Always a stunner, Four Vineyards combines the best small lots from RSV s four Pinot Noir Vineyards to show off the complete expression of Pinot Noir as we know it at RSV. These recipes are fun to make with your family or friends, so gather a crowd and have a ball. Until the Next Wine... Maria Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 5
CHILLED SESAME NOODLES These chilled noodles are packed with flavor. For a vegetarian option, omit the chicken and add sautéed firm tofu instead. Shredded carrots and cucumber may also be added for a fresh twist. For a little spice, add minced fresh red chili to taste. If the tahini has separated into oil and paste, stir well to combine before using. Serve 6 to 8. ¼ teaspoon toasted sesame oil ½ cup sesame paste (tahini) 1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar 2 tablespoons Mirin, Japanese rice wine 3 tablespoons soy sauce ¾ cup water, plus more if needed 1 large garlic clove, minced 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger 3 green onions (white and green parts), thinly sliced Kosher salt 1 recipe Udon Noodles, cooked and chilled, recipe follows ½ pound cooked chicken breast, thinly sliced or shredded 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together sesame oil, sesame paste, rice vinegar, rice wine, and soy sauce. Add enough water to thin to vinaigrette consistency. 2. Whisk in the garlic, ginger, and half of the green onions. Season to taste with salt. 3. Place the noodles in a large bowl with the chicken and add half of the dressing. Toss well. Add more dressing to taste. Thin with a little more water if dressing is too thick. 4. Sprinkle with the remaining green onion and the toasted sesame seeds. UDON NOODLES All-purpose flour makes a softer noodle than bread flour and is easier to roll. Use bread flour if you prefer a chewier noodle. These noodles can also be served in a simple chicken broth flavored with a touch of soy sauce and a few drops of sesame oil. Garnish with green onion. 3¾ cups (500g) all-purpose flour or bread flour 4 teaspoons kosher salt 1 cup water, room temperature ¼ cup cornstarch for dusting when rolling out 1. Sift the flour into a large bowl. 2. Stir the salt into the water until dissolved. 3. Add the salt water to the flour slowly as you mix with your hands to distribute evenly. 4. Continue to mix with your hands until the dough is raggedly but holds together in one piece. Dough will seem dry. If the dough won t come together in one piece, add a few drops of water until it does. It will not be smooth. 5. Place the dough into a gallon zip lock bag with the end partially open. 6. Place the bag on the ground and gently use your feet to step on the dough to flatten. Flatten it as much as you can but do not let it spread outside of the bag. Be careful not to rip the bag. 7. Remove the flattened dough from the bag and roll it up. Place back in the bag and repeat the kneading and flattening process. Keep repeating 5 or 6 times until the dough is smooth and slightly rubbery. 8. If the dough refuses to flatten and springs back, let it rest 20-30 minutes before kneading again. 9. After the last kneading let the dough rest for 30 minutes in the sealed bag. 10. Fold the dough into quarters then bring the corners together and pinch. Form the dough into a ball and place it back into the bag. Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 6
Seal and let rest for 1 to 2 hours on the counter depending on how cold the room is. This will allow the gluten to relax and enable you to roll the dough more easily. 11. To test if the dough is relaxed enough to roll, poke your finger into the ball. If the indent remains and doesn t spring back, the dough is ready to roll. 12. Dust the counter or a board with a little cornstarch. Dust the rolling pin and the surface of the dough as well. Roll your dough out to 1/ 8 inch thick. 13. Lightly dust the surface of the rolled dough with some more cornstarch. Fold the dough in half and then in half again to create a narrow, multilayered strip of udon dough. 14. Use a sharp knife to slice the dough into noodles slightly less than ¼ inch thick. 15. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the noodles, boil for 10-12 minutes, until cooked but slightly al dente. They should be flexible when cooked. Stir gently to separate noodles and keep them from sticking to the bottom of the pot. The noodles will plump up as they cook. 16. Drain the noodles in a colander placed in the sink and run cold water over them to cool. Alternately, drain the noodles, add ice to the colander, and toss until chilled. Avoid soaking the noodles in ice water or they will lose their spirit. TAHINI BREAD ROLLS These addictive soft rolls have a wonderful slightly sandy texture. They are easy to make and delicious with just about anything. Serves 4 to 6. 3¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons dry yeast 1½ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon granulated sugar 1 cup warm water 3 tablespoons mild extra virgin olive oil plus more to grease baking sheet 2 tablespoons tahini 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon nigella seeds 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 1 egg plus 1 teaspoon water beaten until smooth 1 tablespoon nigella seed and 1 tablespoon raw sesame seeds to sprinkle on top 1. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast. Stir in the 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add warm the water and mix to form a soft dough. 2. Turn out of the bowl and knead for 10 minutes on a floured surface or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Shape the dough into a ball. 3. Place the dough back into the bowl and seal with plastic wrap. Leave in a warm place for 45 minutes or until double in size. 4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Generously oil a sheet pan. 5. In a small bowl, mix together the tahini, salt, 1 tablespoon nigella seeds and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds. Reserve. 6. Punch the dough down, turn out onto a lightly floured counter or board, and divide into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and let rest on the counter covered with a tea towel for 15 minutes to relax. 7. Use a rolling pin to roll each ball into a thin oval about 6 inches long. Spread a generous teaspoon of tahini mixture in the middle of the dough and roll up like a cigar. 8. Twist the rolled dough until it wants to make a spiral. Tuck the end of the twist under the spiraled dough and pinch well to seal. 9. Place the finished roll on the greased sheet pan. Repeat these steps for the rest of the dough. 10. Brush the top of the rolls lightly with egg wash and sprinkle with untoasted sesame and nigella seeds 11. Place the tray in the center rack of the preheated oven and bake until the top of the rolls are a golden color, 25 to 30 minutes. Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 7
FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com