R obert S inskey V ineyards MERLOT, LOS CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY, 2011
FOOTSTEPS OF A FARMER... by Debby Zygielbaum A March Toward Better Merlot! The more I walk, the better I farm. Whatever the weather, sun, rain, wind, cold, heat, I walk to observe and deepen my relationship to our vineyards. But in that, I seem to be moving against the trend. Now no one needs to go to the field... You get the data every five minutes on your laptop. I read this quote in a recent SF Chronicle article on new tech in agriculture. Don t get me wrong: tech is great and I am a huge geek. Which isn t that unusual, actually - us farmers have been tinkering with tech to increase efficiency for millennia. The business of growing things can be back breaking and ridiculously labor intensive. Anything that allows us to get more work done more efficiently and be less tired at the end of the day is a good thing! At RSV, we farm 200 acres of premium wine grapes - hundreds of thousands of individual grapevines, erect on steel skeletons, marching into neat rows of green that blur into the horizon. Once, while sampling grapes during harvest, I strapped on a pedometer to count my steps. I took 8,000 steps that day - close to four miles - in a couple short hours. It must be millions of steps now, passing again and again through hundreds of rows, in my decade at RSV. Why wouldn t I want a robot to do that for me? Because, even now, every step is new, the vines ever-changing. At some point, tech becomes a disadvantage, allowing farmers to farm larger and larger acreages without actually ever setting foot on them. Thousands of acres of wine grapes are getting pretty close to being farmed virtually - why walk outside to see what s going on when it all comes instantly to my laptop? I have soil moisture sensors, vineyard irrigation monitoring that can turn my pumps on and off, monitor the flow rate and check for leaks, weather stations that send their data to the web. In a few years, I might add robots pruning, leafing, thinning, pest scouting and sending their robotic visions to my laptop. What could possibly be left to see when I go outside? But tech favors homogeneity; it doesn t grasp the gestalt or see the nuance. When each vine is vibrant, humming, full of energy and living things, how do I tease out that individual tonality from the symphony of a vineyard when observing from a virtual distance? The only way I can hear this life, check in with what is going on, is to walk the fields. Feel the life beneath my boots, see the results in the vines. Know in my gut what needs to be done to weave the individual voices into an orchestra. I can t get this data from my laptop. I sometimes forget that. It s easy to make the excuse that I don t have enough time. I admit, I could probably use a robot or two! There s so much to manage, so many projects to plan and finish. Plus, I still have human eyes in the field beyond my own - how can I justify time spent away from my desk when my staff, my fellow farmers, will touch each individual vine at least ten times before we finally pick the grapes? We are a team, and a good one at that, our livelihoods intertwined with these vinous beings. But I often still can t make a decision until I see it, feel it, hear it, for myself. There is no replacement for my own footsteps in the fields. Merlot, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2
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Winegrowing Notes Merlot is the wine you want but, for many reasons, is the wine that fell from grace. Merlot can be nuanced, one of the world s greatest wines, or it can be simplistic plonk. It all depends on where it was grown combined with the skill of the farmer and the winemaker. RSV s Merlot vineyards are in the Los Carneros region of Napa Valley. A cool growing region that could easily be seen as the Right Bank of Napa, especially the region between the Carneros Highway and the foothills of Mount Veeder. It has a heat summation on par with Saint Émilion and a similarly structured clay-based soil. The growing season is long, allowing for full development of flavor yet cool for lower sugar and higher acidity at harvest. The region is in sync with the grape. The 2011 vintage of Merlot was especially cool. A difficult growing season produced small quantities of fruit with exceptional taste and quality. In this case, adversity is the mother of fine wine. Tasting Notes This tiny production Merlot is like a bowl full of fresh, perfectly ripe Montmorency cherries - it s everything you want a wine to be, let alone a Merlot. Aromas of rosepetals, vibrant stone fruit and dusty herb are carried through to the palate with the addition of chocolatey blackberry. It is deep and complex with an earthy undercurrent that bodes well for a rest in the cellar. Merlot, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 4
VERVE AND SASS RSV grows Merlot with verve and sass. Our organically farmed vineyards with roots in cool, clay soils, yield graceful fruit backed by a core of bright acidity. This brightness makes this Merlot sing with food. Vivid sour cherry and plum fruit aromas and flavor are made more complex by a hint of woody herb similar to thyme. This slight herbal quality amps up the wine s deep swirl of flavors. And getting back to the food - wild rice, Zizania aquatica, a distant relative to ordinary rice, is a grass that grows wild along estuaries and lakes. It does not take well to cultivation, hence the name wild. Its nutty, smoky quality, compliments Merlot nicely, especially when mixed with herbs and tangy fruit. You get the idea. Drink freely, eat with pleasure, and enjoy. Until the Next Wine... Maria GOLDEN WILD RICE BUCKWHEAT CREPES WITH MUSHROOMS & TALEGGIO CHEESE These rich, deeply satisfying crepes, bubbling and golden hot from the oven, make a great dish for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. They are a great make ahead dish for a crowd. The earthy, herbed mushrooms, swiss chard and silky cheesy béchamel are a hit with the bright zing of RSV Merlot. Serves: 10 to 12 1 recipe crepe batter 1 recipe sautéed mushrooms 1 recipe Béchamel 12 ounces Italian Taleggio or Fontina, pulled apart or cut into small pieces 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup finely chopped cooked Swiss chard or Spinach Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. 2. Toss the pieces of Teleggio with ½ cup of Parmesan in a large bowl. Add the mushrooms and greens and toss well to combine. Add 1 cup of béchamel and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 3. Lightly oil a 15 x 10 baking dish with olive oil. Spread 1 cup of béchamel evenly in the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with ¼ cup of Parmesan. 4. Lay the crepes flat and place about 1 / 3 cup of the filling in bottom third of the crepe and roll the crepe up. Place the crepes side by side in the prepared baking dish then repeat until all of the crepes are filled. 5. Pour the remaining béchamel evenly over the top of the filled crepes. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup of Parmesan over the top. 6. Place the crepes in the preheated oven and bake until bubbly and golden, about 45 to 50 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes before serving. Merlot, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 5
BUCKWHEAT WILD RICE CREPE BATTER Yield: 16 crepes 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup buckwheat flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt 3 cups water, divided 6 large eggs Extra virgin olive oil 2 cups wild rice 1. Mix flour, buckwheat and salt. Mix eggs, 2½ cups water and ¼ cup olive oil and slowly beat into flour mixture. Beat until smooth. 2. Add the wild rice. Let rest for 20 minutes covered at room temperature. Batter to should be thin enough to easily coat the bottom of a pan when swirled. Add more water to thin if necessary. 3. Heat a 10 nonstick pan over medium high heat. When the pan is hot brush lightly with olive oil. 4. Use a scant 4 ounce ladle or ½ cup measure to pour batter into pan and roll around to thinly cover bottom. Stir the batter well before scooping to make sure you get wild rice in the scoop. 5. Cook on one side over medium heat until batter is set and edges start to brown. Flip over and cook for a few seconds on the other side. 6. Use a spatula to remove the crepe to a plate or simply flip the pan over and let the crepe land on the plate. Smooth the crepe so it flat for stacking. If you will be freezing the crepes separate each crepe with squares of parchment paper. Let cool. Note: Crepes can be stored at room temperature overnight, tightly wrapped after cooling or frozen up to 2 months tightly sealed. BECHAMEL SAUCE Yield: about 5 cups 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 5 cups whole milk ¼ small yellow onion, peeled 1 small bay leaf, dried or fresh Salt & freshly ground black pepper 1. Melt the butter in a medium sauce pan. Stir in the flour with a wooden spoon until the butter and the flour are thoroughly combined. Continue to cook the mixture over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove the pan from the heat. 2. Whisk in the milk 1 cup at a time. Whisk until the paste is smooth than add another cup of milk and repeat the process until the milk is finished. The milk and flour should be smooth and slightly thickened. 3. Place the pan back over medium heat and add the onion and the bay leaf. Bring the sauce to a boil while whisking constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes stirring every 5 minutes with a wooden spoon. The sauce will form a crust on the bottom so try not to disturb it with the wooden spoon or you will have brown flecks in your sauce. To avoid this, you can transfer the sauce to a double boiler and continue to cook it for 20 minutes without having to stir. 4. Strain the sauce into a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Cool for later use and store well-wrapped in the refrigerator. Merlot, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 6
SAUTEED MUSHROOMS These delicious and fragrant mushrooms can be used to stuff omelets, top pizzas, or accompany a nice grilled steak. Yield: 4 cups 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds thinly sliced crimini mushrooms Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons thyme 1 teaspoon minced garlic 3 tablespoons minced shallots 1. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat. When the pan is hot add the olive oil and then the mushrooms. 2. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes stirring occasionally until the mushrooms are golden and the pan juices are almost dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 3. Reduce the heat to medium, fold in the thyme, garlic and shallots and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. Turn out onto a sheet pan to cool before using. WILD RICE WITH CRANBERRIES AND CHESTNUTS Wild rice makes a great side dish for thanksgiving. Chestnuts accentuate the nuttiness of the rice and the cranberries give a nice tart sweetness to the dish. The rice and vegetables can be prepared and mixed one day in advance. Re-warm in a 350 degree F oven in a covered heatproof dish for 20 minutes. Serves: 4 to 6 1 cup wild rice Kosher salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ medium yellow onion, peeled and trimmed 2 carrots, peeled and trimmed 1 celery stalk, trimmed 1 cup peeled roasted chestnuts, coarsely crushed ¼ coarsely chopped dried cranberries 1 teaspoon chopped sage 1 teaspoon chopped thyme 1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley Freshly ground black pepper 1. Rinse the rice with cold water and drain. Place in a 3 quart sauce pan with 4 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low for 45 minutes until the rice is tender and splitting. Drain and keep warm. 2. While the rice is cooking, dice the onion, carrot and celery into pieces the size of your pinky nail. Heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter begins to brown, add the diced vegetables and sauté until they are very tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat if the pan gets too hot. Add a few drops of water if the vegetables start to brown too much and adhere to the pan. 3. Add the chestnuts and cranberries then stir well. Add the sage, thyme and parsley to the vegetables and sauté until everything is heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 4. Fold the vegetable mixture into the warm rice and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Merlot, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 7
FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com