How to Make 93 wines a Year Stéphane Derenoncourt finds inspiration in the challenge of growing good grapes in difficult terroirs. He currently produces two wines under his own labels one in Bordeaux and one in Napa while his firm, Vigneron Consultants, works for 91 wineries in appellations from Virginia to Bangalore. Below are brief profiles of six interesting terroirs that Derenoncourt has encountered. Château Canon-La Gaffelière Location St.-Emilion, Bordeaux First vintage under Derenoncourt 1996 Stephan von Neipperg took over La Gaffelière from his father in 1985, bringing energy and innovation to the property. Always willing to think outside the box, von Neipperg hired Derenoncourt as technical director in 1996. The cultural shock between Stephan and I was big, Derenoncourt says. Keep in mind that I was like a hippie, with long hair and a guitar on my back. It was the beginning of a great challenge and a wonderful human experience. The vineyards comprise 48 acres of Merlot and Cabernet Franc on limestone and sand on the escarpment south of St.-Emilion. Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2009 94-97 $NA Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2008 89-92 $NA Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2006 93 $76 Château Prieuré-Lichine Location Margaux, Bordeaux First vintage under Derenoncourt 1999 Derenoncourt had worked only on Bordeaux s Right Bank before taking on Prieuré-Lichine. Work is different in the Médoc. Whereas Canon-La Gaffelière has 48 acres in one block, Prieuré-Lichine has 179 acres in 125 parcels in five different villages. Each one has varying amounts of gravel or clay, needing different care and requiring a different harvest date. Quality had been inconsistent before Derenoncourt s arrival. The challenge was to understand and organize all of these parcels in order to transform what was seen as a handicap into the strength of the expression of a wonderful terroir, he says. Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2009 94-97 $NA Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2008 88-91 $NA Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2007 87 $43 Domaine de l a Location Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux First vintage under Derenoncourt 2000 Owned by Derenoncourt and his wife, Christine, de l A is a laboratory for all new methods we want to try and a training center for my new consultants, says Derenoncourt. In fact, new enologists at the firm are put to work in the de l A vineyards for a year before they do any winemaking, to cement their dedication to the soil. The estate grows a mix of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon on several parcels spread over 24 acres. This type of soil clay and limestone is what I like best, says Derenoncourt. Domaine de l A Côtes de Castillon 2009 90-93 $NA Domaine de l A Côtes de Castillon 2007 87 $NA Derenoncourt California Location Napa Valley, California First vintage under Derenoncourt 2006 Derenoncourt says he went to Napa because he liked the challenge it presented; he wanted to grow the same grapes he worked with in Bordeaux in a completely different climate a dry, sunny valley instead of a wet, maritime province. I m trying to grow grape varieties of Bordeaux through an opposite philosophy, he says. The main challenge is to keep freshness in grapes which ripen under hot sun during the entire maturation process. This freshness is essential to create balanced wines. With the help of Napa-based staffer Hélène Mingot, he s producing four reds a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot, a Cabernet Franc and a Syrah from various Napa vineyards, plus a Cabernet Sauvignon from Lake County s Red Hills AVA. Derenoncourt Cabernet Franc Napa Valley 2006 94 $140 Derenoncourt Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 94 $220 Derenoncourt Merlot Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard 2006 94 $140 Boxwood winery Location Middleburg, Virginia First vintage under Derenoncourt 2006 Former Washington Redskins owner John Kent Cooke opened this Virginia winery in 2004. His daughter Rachel Martin met Derenoncourt while studying enology in Bordeaux and convinced him to visit. After meeting with local viticulturist Lucie Morton and being impressed with her work, Derenoncourt signed on. He likes the challenge of an emerging wine region dealing with a challenging climate Virginia has warm summers but high humidity. Boxwood Winery Boxwood Virginia 2007 88 $25 Boxwood Winery Topiary Virginia 2007 87 $25 Fattoria La Massa Location Chianti Classico, Italy First vintage under Derenoncourt 2009 La Massa is Derenoncourt s third Italian project (all are in Tuscany). It lies in one of Chianti s best spots, in the Conca d Oro, a natural amphitheater of terraced vineyards facing southwest. Owner Giampaolo Motta studied in Bordeaux and is a friend of Derenoncourt. The top wine, Giorgio Primo, is a super Tuscan blend of 50 percent Sangiovese and 40 percent Merlot, with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines have routinely received outstanding scores, so Derenoncourt s toughest task may be improving on excellence. It s an opportunity to work hand in hand with one of my best friends, says Derenoncourt. Giampaolo is passionate and crazy about wines from Bordeaux, and we share a common ambition: Create the best wine of IGT Tuscany.