October 2016 4.50 (%!,4(9 s 3534!).!",% s $%,)#)/53 39 www.vegetarianliving.co.uk OCTOBER 2016 Inside this issue Full of flavour It s easy to be inspired and create great food every month with our superb seasonal recipe ideas. SUITABLE FOR VEGANS ADAPTABLE FOR VEGANS NOURISHING NOODLES EASY FAMILY EATING SUPERHERO LUNCHES MODERN BAKES CELEBRATE THE AUTUMN HARVEST WITH WARMING, HEARTY SUPPER IDEAS Heavenly vegan ÁINE S CHOCOLATE SMOOTHIE BOWL 53 MEAT-FREE StraigHt to wok 29 VEGAN DISHES Nourishing noodles in soups and stir-fries MEDITERRANEAN TURLU WITH FREEKEH AND HERBS EASY FAMILY EATING Superhero lunches ENERGY-PACKED MIDDAY BOOSTS FROM JULIE MONTAGU Lizzie Kamenetzky shows how to please a crowd with tasty gratins, soufflés, muffins and crumbles www.vegetarianliving.co.uk MODERN BAKES Bake Off s Martha SOUPER SOUP Blog star Indy Power WEEKEND BRUNCH Treat yourself with Zuza Collison creates fun desserts with a twist shares her recipes for boosting wellbeing Zak s deliciously different Polish breakfast dishes PLUS: Perfect pumpkins Natural skincare Community orchards 001_VL75[OctCoverV9]SMSJSM2.indd 1 SUITABLE FOR FREEZING READY IN MINUTES Starters & light bites Sweets & treats 16 Blackberry basil bruschetta 18 Warm pumpkin, quinoa and cabbage salad 66 Kale minestrone 89 Spicy carrot and chickpea soup 89 Braised cauliflower couscous with orange tofu 90 Walnut and black bean wraps 21 Mini pumpkin cashew cheesecakes 30 Bollywood bar 31 Zebra cheesecake 32 Pistachio and lime courgette cake 40 Apple and pecan crumble 41 Crumble cupcakes 50 Chocolate shake smoothie bowl 62 Apple and green cabbage cake 68 Lemon and poppy seed drizzle loaf 71 Fluffy omelette with stewed berries 71 Nalesniki with sweet cinnamon cheese 72 Lazy dumplings with sugary brown butter 73 Autumnal potato knedle with juicy plum filling 83 Hazelnut biscuits 84 Easy chocolate bites with date and coconut Main courses RECIPES PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS savoury nibbles 17 Golden vegetable tagine 20 Sweet potato tacos with apple radish slaw 23 Involtini di melanzane 26 Turlu 37 Squash and Parmesan soufflé 39 Root vegetable gratin 45 Mushroom noodle soup with grated beetroot, tarragon and capers 45 Sweetcorn, chilli and miso noodle fritters with soy and lime dipping sauce 46 Broccoli, pea and spinach ricenoodle stir-fry with fried egg 46 Butternut squash and cavolo nero green curry with rice noodles 49 Sticky soy and ginger beetroot with egg noodles 49 Roasted sweet potato, aubergine and cauliflower with coriander pesto and miso soba noodles 58 Five-a-day Moroccan casserole with Swiss chard and couscous 59 Puy lentil Bolognese with pasta 67 Vegan chilli 75 Mole pepitas on griddled or roasted vegetables 75 Beer-battered stuffed Padrón chillies 79 Butternut chickpea curry 79 Rainbow veggie pie 80 Matter paneer 82 Black bean and squash quesadillas 83 Spiced Indian vegetable strudel Dips, sauces, sides & more 24 Roasted aubergines with za atar 24 Aubergine dip 24 Zaalouk 26 Freekeh with herbs 36 Baked squash with chilli and rosemary 39 Savoury gratin muffins 42 Home-baked baguettes 50 Homemade cashew milk 63 Crab apple and port jelly 89 Crunchy cumin chickpeas Many of the recipes have suggestions on how to adapt them for vegans, written by our vegan editor Alice Gunn. Submit a recipe Do you have a fabulous vegetarian or vegan dish that you want to share with the world? Then do so at www.vegetarianliving.co.uk. Subscribe today! Subscribe to the UK s best vegetarian and vegan magazine, on page 56. 19/08/2016 11:19
With dishes packed full of rich, velvety aubergines, chef Rachel Demuth relives the warmth and taste of the Mediterranean. Aubergine dream ABOUT RACHEL Chef-proprietor of the awardwinning Demuths restaurant in Bath for 25 years, Rachel is now dedicated to running the Demuths Vegetarian Cookery School, which offers a range of themed workshops, guest chef events, cookery holidays in France and Italy, and the Demuths Vegetarian and Vegan Diplomas for professional chefs and keen cooks. As a well-travelled foodie, Rachel loves to combine her passion for global cuisine with the best of locally grown produce. www.demuths.co.uk As summer turns to autumn, I like to make the most of the vegetables reminiscent of Mediterranean summer holidays that bring back the warmth of taverna suppers. A popular vegetable in southern Europe and the Middle East, aubergines are delicious and versatile. They will soak up treasured bottles of olive oil and marry well with capers and olives, plus they combine beautifully with spices. They can be simply griddled, turned into a smoky-flavoured dip, or added to hearty stews or curries for a velvety meaty texture. The aubergine is in the Solonaceae family, along with tomato, potato, peppers and two ancient herbal medicines, belladonna and mandrake. The most common aubergine form across the world is the glossy, deep purple variety. Their shape can vary from oval to globe-like, a bit like elongated teardrops, with colours ranging from purple through violet, often with variegated stripes, or they can be pure white or cream. In the countries of Southeast Asia you will find a greater variety of shape, size and colour from the small yellow Thai aubergines to the tiny pea-sized Indian ones which are prized for their bitterness. The name eggplant is common in North America and Australia. Some suspect that this name came from the white, often round, fruits that were popular in India when the British established the British East India Company. It has also been suggested that the eggplant name might have been linked to the small, pale green fruits of the mandrake. The practice of salting While wild aubergines are very bitter (and the mature or ripe fruit also develops bitterness), modern cultivars are rarely bitter because it has been bred out of them, which is a shame as bitterness helps to balance flavours. The practice of salting or degorging sliced aubergines before cooking was said to be useful to reduce the bitter constituents, but the benefit has always been doubtful. Now, with less bitter varieties, salting is no longer necessary, which also avoids adding extra unwanted salt to your food. There was also a belief that salting meant the aubergine absorbed less cooking oil I have not found this to be the case. Yes, aubergines are greedy for oil, so best practice is to use it sparingly, and the aubergines will still cook perfectly. 22 022-6_VL75[Rach_Mediter]NTSJSM.indd 22 17/08/2016 18:03
Chef slarder Buying, storing and cooking The fruit is eaten immature or unripe and, although there are tiny seeds inside, if left to mature the flesh becomes bitter and the seeds harden. When buying, the calyx (stem end) and the tip should have green colouring, as though it had just been picked. The skin should be bright, smooth and firm without any brown spots or patches, and certainly without any bruises or punctures. An aubergine with lots of black seeds and brown flesh is a ripe aubergine. Both extremes of heat and cold will encourage aubergines to spoil too warm in a room or in sunlight will accelerate ripening, and too cold will damage the flesh. They are best stored in the salad drawer in the fridge at 8 10C. Aubergine is not eaten raw and there is no need to peel the skin. The best way to cook them is to roast, fry or griddle. The flesh is like a sponge, which softens when roasted or fried with olive oil, and absorbs flavours beautifully. The recipes I have chosen this month use my favourite methods of roasting and griddling but, whichever way you prepare your aubergines, make sure they are really well cooked, and have lost their whiteness, turned dark and become unctuously soft and juicy. ALL IMAGES ROB WICKS/EAT PICTURES INVOLTINI DI MELANZANE Involtini di melanzane There are many variations of this Italian classic our version is topped with a roasted cherry tomato sauce. Serves 6 Prep 30 mins Cook 50 mins 3 medium aubergines 4 tbsp olive oil 2 Romano red peppers For the cherry tomato sauce: 600g cherry or small sweet ripe tomatoes, on the vine 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled 2 tbsp olive oil pinch of sugar balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar handful of fresh basil, chopped For the cheese filling: 250g ricotta 50g vegetarian hard cheese, grated 2 free-range eggs grating of nutmeg 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Cut the stalk off the aubergine and stand it up on the cut end. Slice down the length into even slices, about 5mm thick. Rub the slices in the oil, then spread in a single layer over 2 baking trays and cook for 15 20 minutes, until soft to the touch but not too brown. Alternatively, cook them on a griddle. 2 Slice the peppers lengthways and remove the seeds and stalk. Rub with olive oil and roast until the skins are beginning to blacken. Place in a bowl and cover with cling film. When cool, peel off the skin and slice into lengths to match the width of the aubergine slices. 3 To make the sauce, place the tomatoes and garlic in a roasting tray and drizzle over the oil. Roast for 20 30 minutes or until the garlic is soft and can be squeezed from its skin. 4 Allow to cool, then remove the tomatoes from the vine and place in a blender. Squeeze the garlic from its skin, add to the blender with the tomatoes and purée until smooth. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and the pinch of sugar, if needed. If it is a little sweet, then add a few drops of vinegar. Lastly, add the chopped basil. 5 To make the cheese filling, whisk together the ricotta, grated cheese, eggs and nutmeg, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. 6 To make the rolls, lay out an aubergine slice, put a tablespoon of cheese filling at the bottom end and a slice of roasted pepper on top, then roll up and place in a greased baking dish. Repeat the process to use up all the aubergine and cheese mixture. 7 Spoon the tomato sauce over the top of the aubergine rolls, and drizzle a little extra olive oil over the top. Bake for 20 minutes until the filling inside the rolls is set. n PER SERVING 276 cals, fat 21.1g, sat fat 7.1g, carbs 10.9g, sugars 10.2g, protein 11.1g, salt 1.5g, fibre 6.6g www.vegetarianliving.co.uk 23 022-6_VL75[Rach_Mediter]NTSJSM.indd 23 17/08/2016 18:03
Chef slarder Roasted aubergines with za atar Eat as part of a mezze with the aubergine dip, zaalouk and warm pitta bread. You can also serve this as a starter with labna or a tahini dip, pomegranate seeds and salad leaves. Serves 4 Prep 10 mins Cook 20 mins 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp za atar spice blend (see recipe, below) zest of ½ lemon 8 baby aubergines or 1 medium aubergine pinch of salt 1 tsp Aleppo pepper flakes, to garnish 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Mix together the oil, za atar and lemon zest in a small bowl. 2 Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and score a crisscross pattern into the flesh, avoiding cutting through the skin. Lay them skin-side down on a baking tray and cover with the oil mixture, rubbing it all over the aubergines with your hands. 3 Roast the aubergines for 20 minutes until they are soft and brown on top. If the aubergines are larger, you will need to cover them in foil and cook for an extra 20 minutes. Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper flakes to serve. n PER SERVING 93 cals, fat 10.4g, sat fat 1.6g, carbs 2g, sugars 2g, protein 2g, salt 1.3g, fibre 5g Za atar spice blend Za atar is a spice mix which is prepared using herbs, spices and sesame seeds to which sumac is often added. Households throughout the Middle East have their own homemade spice mixtures. 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp sesame seeds 1 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tbsp sumac Toast the cumin and coriander seeds separately (as the cumin burns quickly) by placing them in a dry frying pan and cooking ALEPPO PEPPER A Turkish dried and flaked chilli pepper, Aleppo has a mild heat similar to a Mexican ancho chilli, with a sweet, slightly smoky tomato-like flavour. Use instead of paprika and black pepper, as it will add colour and a little kick of spicy heat. until they start to smell fragrant. Tip them into a pestle and mortar and grind until smooth. Dry-fry the sesame seeds for a minute to give them a little colour, then mix with the ground cumin and coriander, thyme, oregano and sumac. Store in an airtight jar. COOK S TIP Sprinkle za atar over lavash or pitta bread before baking; eat it with bread by dipping the bread in olive oil, then the za atar; and use as a seasoning to sprinkle on roasted vegetables or spice up hummus, soups or rice dishes. Aubergine dip Aubergines are roasted and blackened in Greece, Turkey and in the Middle East and made into a dip, sometimes smooth and sometimes chunky, but always with lots of garlic! Serves 4 Prep 15 mins Cook 45 mins 1 large aubergine 1 whole head of garlic 2 tbsp tahini 2 tbsp lemon juice Aleppo pepper flakes, to garnish 1 Preheat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Prick the aubergine all over and bake for about 45 minutes, until the skin is wrinkly and beginning to blacken. 2 At the same time, put the whole bulb of garlic, unpeeled, into the oven and bake for 30 minutes. 3 Let the aubergine cool, then place in a food processor. Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the skins and place in the food processor with the aubergine. Pulse quickly to chop up the aubergine, then add the tahini and lemon juice. Season to taste and serve with a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper. COOK S TIP If you prefer your aubergine with a more charred flavour, blacken it over a gas flame on a fork, or under the grill. Then remove the blackened, burnt skin and you will be left with a smoky flavour; for a very strong flavour, add some of the blackened skin when you blend the dip. n PER SERVING 111 cals, fat 9.3g, sat fat 1.4g, carbs 3.1g, sugars 1.7g, protein 4.3g, salt 1.1g, fibre 4.3g Zaalouk Zaalouk is a Moroccan aubergine salad, usually served with warm flatbread. We like to add roasted pepper to give the dish colour and add a touch of sweetness. Serves 4 Prep 15 mins Cook 1 hr 1 large aubergine 1 red pepper 2 large tomatoes (about 300g) 1 tbsp olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tsp ground cumin pinch of paprika pinch of chilli flakes juice of ½ lemon 2 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped coriander 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Place the whole aubergine on a foil-lined roasting tray and bake for about 45 minutes until soft. Allow to cool a little, then peel away and discard the skin. Chop the flesh up roughly, then place the flesh in a colander over a bowl and allow the juices to run out. 2 Cut the pepper in half, remove the seeds, then grill until the skin blackens. Place in a bowl and cover with cling film. Set aside for 10 minutes, or until cool enough to handle and the skin comes away easily when peeled. Discard the skin, and chop the pepper finely. 3 Place the tomatoes in a heatproof bowl and cover with hot water from a just-boiled kettle. After 2 3 minutes, remove from the water and peel away the skins. If they don t come off easily, place back in the hot water for a minute more. Chop roughly. 4 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, then add the chopped garlic. Fry for a minute until the garlic is just beginning to colour, then add the tomatoes. Cook on a medium heat for 5 10 minutes, until they soften and can be mashed with a fork. 5 Add the cumin, paprika and chilli, then stir through the aubergine and pepper and gently cook for 5 minutes. 6 Season with lemon juice, salt and pepper, tasting and adjusting to balance the flavours. You may want to add more paprika, chilli and lemon. Remove from the heat and add the chopped herbs. Serve at room temperature with warm pitta bread. n PER SERVING 63 cals, fat 3.5g, sat fat 0.5g, carbs 6.3g, sugars 5.4g, protein 2.1g, salt 1.1g, fibre 4.4g 24 022-6_VL75[Rach_Mediter]NTSJSM.indd 24 17/08/2016 18:03
ZAALOUK ROASTED AUBERGINES WITH ZA ATAR AUBERGINE DIP 022-6_VL75[Rach_Mediter]NTSJSM.indd 25 17/08/2016 18:03
Chef slarder Turlu Turlu is a Turkish mix of vegetables and changes with the seasons. We have added squash and beetroot to the traditional Mediterranean mix of aubergine, peppers and tomatoes. When tomatoes are not in season, we prefer to use passata. Serves 4 Prep 30 mins Cook 1 hr 1 large aubergine, cubed into 3cm pieces 1 beetroot, peeled and cut into 8 wedges 1 red pepper, thickly sliced 500g butternut squash, peeled and cubed 1 red onion, peeled and cut into 8 10 wedges 3 cloves garlic, sliced 3 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp allspice 2 tsp coriander seeds 400g can chickpeas, drained 200ml passata 2 tbsp pomegranate syrup handful of fresh parsley, chopped handful of fresh coriander, chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. In a large bowl, mix all the vegetables together with the olive oil, allspice, coriander seeds and a large pinch of salt and pepper. Spread the vegetable mix in one layer in a large roasting tray and roast for 45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. The vegetables should be caramelised on the edges but not burnt. 2 Add the chickpeas, passata and pomegranate syrup. Stir through, then roast for a further 10 minutes. 3 Serve warm with a green salad, pitta bread and freekeh with herbs (see recipe, below). n PER SERVING 283 cals, fat 11.7g, sat fat 1.6g, carbs 35.9g, sugars 21g, protein 11.7g, salt 1.1g, fibre 11.8g FREEKEH WITH HERBS TURLU Freekeh with herbs Freekeh is a Middle Eastern-grown wheat that is picked while green and unripe, and then roasted over wood fires to burn off the husk, giving it a slightly smoky flavour. It can be bought whole or cracked. This salad is more a herb salad than a grain dish, so don t stint on the herbs. Serves 4 Prep 10 mins Cook 20 mins 100g cracked freekeh (or bulgur wheat) large handful flat-leaf parsley large handful of fresh mint 25ml olive oil juice of ½ lemon handful of pomegranate seeds, to garnish 1 Soak the freekeh in cold water for 5 minutes, then rinse and drain well. Place in a pan, cover with water and boil for 15 minutes. Drain, and return the freekeh to the hot saucepan with the lid on to finish cooking in the residual heat and steam for 5 minutes. 2 Remove the stems from the parsley and mint and chop the leaves. Mix the freekeh with the herbs, add the olive oil and season to taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Garnish with pomegranate seeds to serve. 26 022-6_VL75[Rach_Mediter]NTSJSM.indd 26 17/08/2016 18:03