More than just kimchi

More than just kimchi Chef Rachel Demuth reveals the wider cuisine behind this popular fermented Korean dish, from colourful Buddha bowls to delicious seaweed rolls. Korean food is hearty, boldly flavoured and nutritious. Koreans are firm believers in eating for health; there is a strong idea of food as medicine and they traditionally forage for wild medicinal herbs to add to their food. Rice (bap) is central to their meals the word for rice is also the word for a meal. A bowl of both steaming rice and soup are always served to everyone at the table, followed by varied shared side dishes, as there is no concept of separate courses. At mealtimes, respect is ingrained into the food culture, so everyone waits until the eldest picks up his or her chopsticks and you must always accept a drink of rice liquor (soju) or something stronger from an elder. This can lead to very drunken meals! ABOUT RACHEL Chef-proprietor of the awardwinning Demuths restaurant in Bath for 25 years, Rachel is now dedicated to running the Demuths Vegetarian Cookery School, which offers a range of themed workshops, guest chef events, cookery holidays in France and Italy, and the Demuths Vegetarian and Vegan Diplomas for professional chefs and keen cooks. As a well-travelled foodie, Rachel loves to combine her passion for global cuisine with the best of locally grown produce. www.demuths.co.uk Koreans follow the oriental rule of five tastes: salt, sweet, sour, hot and bitter. Salt comes from soy sauce and bean paste, sweet from sugar and sweet potatoes, sour from vinegar, hot from chilli peppers and mustard, and bitter from ginger. In addition to the five tastes, they follow an arrangement of five traditional colours of red, green, yellow, white and black when preparing dishes, which will ensure a nutritious variety of ingredients. They also like to spend time beautifully arranging the food, as presentation is essential to Korean meals. Preserving food by pickling, salting and fermenting is a passion, with kimchi being the most famous fermented cabbage side dish. One of the drawbacks for vegetarians is that Koreans add fish sauce, which is made from fermented anchovies, to many of their dishes for both flavour and protein. Lydia, one of our lead tutors at the cookery school, has been working on fish- and meat-free alternatives to traditional Korean dishes and has come up with this month s very tasty recipes, including her vegetarian kimchi. l Demuths Vegetarian Cookery School will be running a course on Korean cooking in November. For dates and more details, visit www.demuths.co.uk. Bibimbap This is a popular Korean rice bowl dish usually made with short-grain white rice and topped with an egg surrounded by colourful vegetables and meat or fish. Translated, bibimbap means mixed rice. You could substitute the jasmine rice with short-grain brown sushi rice to make the dish more nutritious. Use seasonal vegetables if you can and think about the colours to make this dish as attractive as possible. Serves 4 Prep 30 mins Cook 30 mins 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil, plus extra for frying 2 tbsp shoyu 1 large carrot, cut into thin matchstick strips (julienne) 12 radishes (preferable long French ones), thinly sliced ¼ cucumber, deseeded and cut into thin half-moons 125g bean sprouts 100g fresh spinach 100g broccoli small florets 4 6 shiitake, oyster or chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced 150g aubergine, quartered and sliced thinly For the sauce: 2 tbsp gochujang chilli paste 2 tsp soft brown sugar 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp water To serve: 300g jasmine rice 4 free-range eggs salad cress or watercress, to garnish black or white sesame seeds gochugaru chilli flakes small bowl of kimchi (optional; see recipe, page 24) 1 Wash the rice then place in a saucepan with 500ml water. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the water level is at the same as the rice. Turn the heat to low, cover with a lid and set the timer for 5 minutes. When the 5 minutes are up, switch off the heat and leave with the lid on for another 10 15 minutes to allow the rice to steam. 2 Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil. 22 022-6_VL76[Rach_Korean]NT3SJ.indd 22 20/09/2016 12:09

BIBIMBAP ALL IMAGES ROB WICKS/EAT PICTURES ESSENTIAL KOREAN INGREDIENTS TO COOK KOREAN DISHES AT HOME YOU WILL NEED TO BUY SOME SPECIAL INGREDIENTS, EASILY AVAILABLE FROM CHINESE STORES OR ONLINE. GOCHUGARU A Korean chilli powder which comes either finely ground or in coarse flakes and varies in levels of spiciness. It can be stored for months in the fridge or freezer. Used in cooking and an essential ingredient for making kimchi. GOCHUJANG A chilli paste usually sold in tubs. It is thick, sticky and slightly sweet, used in marinades, sauces and dips, and for adding richness and depth to stews and stir-fries. DOEN-JANG Fermented soya bean paste, similar to Japanese miso, but more concentrated in flavour. SOY SAUCE Used extensively in Korean cooking, it adds the essential salty umami element to everything from stir-fries to soups, stews, marinades and dipping sauces. RICE VINEGAR OR RICE WINE VINEGAR A mildly acidic, slightly sweet vinegar used in sauces, marinades and dips. TOASTED SESAME OIL One of the main flavours used to season Korean dishes. Its strong nutty flavour and aroma has a delicious but distinctive taste, so needs to be added carefully to avoid overpowering other flavours. TOASTED SESAME SEEDS Many dishes are garnished with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds, which give a delicious aromatic crunchy texture. They also work very well in many dipping sauces. Toast the seeds in a hot dry frying pan. NORI A seaweed dried as a flat sheet. Make sure you buy toasted nori for making kimbap rolls. DAIKON/MOOLI Danmuji is a long white Japanese radish used for the filling for kimbap. It s crunchy, with a mild peppery flavour, similar to watercress. Takaun is pickled mooli, which is yellow in colour traditionally from persimmon peels, but now more likely to be yellow food colouring. KIMCHI Made from fermented spicy cabbage, this is essentially Korea s national dish and served alongside every meal. You can buy it ready-made, but it will contain fermented fish unless you buy a specifically vegetarian version from a wholefood store. It s easy and fun to make your own at home with our recipe (see page 24). RICE Short-grain white rice (sticky or sushi) is the most commonly eaten. Koreans often cook a very nutritious blend known as five-grain rice, which can be a mix of white and brown rice with other grains such as millet, together with pulses such as aduki or black beans. NOODLES Sweet potato glass or cellophane noodles are a classic Korean variety used in soups and stews. Udon and buckwheat soba noodles are also very popular, as are regular thin wheat noodles. TOFU Made from pressed soya bean curd, tofu is bland on its own but is perfect for absorbing flavours. Opt for firm tofu for these recipes which can also be purchased smoked or marinated and then diced and fried. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk 23 022-6_VL76[Rach_Korean]NT3SJ.indd 23 20/09/2016 12:10

VEGETARIAN KIMCHI Mix the sesame oil and shoyu in a jug. Have all the vegetables prepared in advance and in separate bowls. Blanch the carrot for 2 3 minutes until just tender. Drain with a slotted spoon, and place back in their bowl. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of the oil/shoyu mix over. Blanch the remaining vegetables in the same way, except for the mushrooms and aubergines, drizzling each with the oil/shoyu mix. 3 Heat 1 tablespoon of toasted sesame oil (or sunflower oil) in a frying pan, and cook the mushrooms quickly until just taking on a little colour. Remove to a bowl. 4 Add a little more oil to the pan, then fry the aubergine slices until golden brown on each side. Remove to a plate or bowl. 5 Wipe the pan clean and fry the eggs. Remove to a plate as each one is cooked. 6 To assemble, spoon some rice into each bowl and spread in an even layer. Place a fried egg at the centre of each rice bowl, then arrange the vegetable in separate piles around the egg, placing as neatly and prettily as you can. Finally, garnish with a little cress, a sprinkle of sesame seeds and gochugaru chilli flakes. Mix the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl and serve alongside the bibimbap or drizzled on top. Eat with a side of kimchi, if desired. n PER SERVING 585 cals, fat 24.5g, sat fat 4.2g, carbs 73.4g, sugars 11g, protein 18.9g, salt 2.8g, fibre 8.7g Slices of crispy marinated tofu are a good alternative to the egg. Vegetarian kimchi Kimchi is traditionally made by families during late autumn to last them throughout the year, and stored in pots underground. It is easily found in Asian stores, though it is not usually vegetarian. The most common kimchi is made with napa cabbage or Chinese leaf/ cabbage, but other vegetables such as kale, turnips, radishes and cucumbers can be used. As with many fermented foods, it is rich in many essential vitamins and minerals, as well as lactic acid bacteria, making kimchi a very beneficial nutritious addition to your diet. Makes 1 large Kilner jar (1 litre) 1 large napa cabbage or Chinese leaf 3 tbsp fine sea salt 1 large onion, chopped 4 spring onions 4 tbsp gochugaru chilli flakes For the paste mix: ½ onion, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 5cm piece ginger, peeled and chopped 1 tsp sugar 1 Chop the cabbage into large 3cm squares, discarding the stem and core. Place into a large glass or ceramic mixing bowl, and massage in the salt, ensuring it is evenly 24 022-6_VL76[Rach_Korean]NT3SJ.indd 24 20/09/2016 12:09

distributed throughout the pieces. Set aside for 1 hour. 2 Meanwhile, blend the paste ingredients in a food processor until smooth. 3 Tip the cabbage into a colander and rinse thoroughly. Drain well and allow to dry a little. It will feel quite limp and soft. Place back into the mixing bowl and add the onion, spring onion and gochugaru. Add the paste mix and, using clean hands, massage through the vegetables to combine thoroughly. 4 Pack the vegetable mix into a sterilised jar, pushing down well to compact it and avoid air pockets. Leave several centimetres from the top of the jar to allow for expansion during the fermentation process. 5 Swirl a couple of tablespoons of water around the mixing bowl to collect any paste remaining, and pour into the almost full jar. Seal the top and place in a cool area of your kitchen out of direct sunlight. 6 Check the jar daily for 3 days, pushing the mix down to release any air pockets and to allow the accumulated liquid to come to the surface. The vegetables need to be submerged beneath the liquid. Seal the lid to cover each day, then refrigerate after 3 days, at which point the kimchi should smell sour but not unpleasant. Keep the kimchi in the fridge, and taste after a couple of days, using once you are satisfied with the flavour development. You may find the flavour needs a couple of weeks to develop enough to your liking. Once fully fermented, the kimchi will keep for up to 6 months (possibly longer) in the fridge. KIMCHI STEW WITH TOFU AND VEGETABLES Kimchi stew with tofu and vegetables This is a classic Korean dish that is perfect for cold winter days. Spicy and deeply savoury, yet light and invigorating, a bowl of this is good on its own, or served with some jasmine or brown rice. Serves 4 Prep 15 mins Cook 45 mins 4 5 tbsp untoasted sesame oil or sunflower oil 125g shiitake, oyster or chestnut mushrooms, sliced 1 small aubergine, quartered and cut into 1cm-thick slices 250g kimchi, chopped (see recipe, opposite) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 6 spring onions, sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced finely ½ tsp gochugaru chilli flakes 2 tsp gochujang chilli paste 1 2 tbsp shoyu 600ml water 250g firm tofu, cubed into 2cm pieces 150g baby sweetcorn, sliced into thirds To garnish: 2 spring onions, sliced thinly on the diagonal and soaked in cold water to crisp up 1 Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan and stir-fry the mushrooms until just beginning to brown a little. Remove to a plate and set aside. 2 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and fry the aubergine slices until golden on both sides. You may need to add extra oil to the pan. Add to the cooked mushrooms and set aside. 3 In a wok or large pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and cook the chopped kimchi for about 5 minutes. Add the toasted sesame oil, spring onions, garlic, gochugaru, gochujang and shoyu. Stir to combine, then add in the water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. 4 Add the tofu and baby sweetcorn and simmer for a further 10 minutes. 5 Just before serving, add in the mushrooms and aubergine and stir to heat through for a couple of minutes. Taste for seasoning and add a little extra shoyu or gochujang, if necessary. Serve in deep bowls with the spring onions sprinkled on top. n PER SERVING 245 cals, fat 17.8g, sat fat 2.2g, carbs 12.8g, sugars 9.3g, protein 9.4g, salt 3g, fibre 6.5g www.vegetarianliving.co.uk 25 022-6_VL76[Rach_Korean]NT3SJ.indd 25 20/09/2016 12:10

Kimbap Kimbap could be described as Korean sushi, though they are more the equivalent of a sandwich to Koreans, being a popular snack, lunch or picnic food, and the flavour is quite different to Japanese sushi rolls. Serves 4 Prep 1 hr Cook 30 mins For the rice: 200g brown sushi rice ½ tsp fine sea salt 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil For the filling: sunflower oil or untoasted sesame oil, for frying handful of fresh spinach leaves 100g firm tofu, sliced and marinated in 2 tsp shoyu and 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 2 tsp cornflour 1 tsp black sesame seeds 1 medium carrot 75g purple sweet potato 75g yellow pickled daikon (mooli) radish ¼ cucumber, deseeded 4 sheets nori seaweed hot and sweet sesame dipping sauce, to serve (see recipe, below) 1 Wash the rice well, then place in a pan with 450ml water. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer with the lid on for about 30 minutes until most of the water has evaporated. Switch off the heat and leave with the lid on for another 15 minutes to allow the rice to steam. 2 Spread the cooked rice on to a large plate, sprinkle with the salt and sesame oil, turning it over with a spoon to combine and cool down. 3 Meanwhile, prepare the fillings. Wilt the spinach quickly in a frying pan with a little oil. Remove to a plate to cool. Coat the tofu slices in the cornflour and sesame seeds, then fry until golden and crisp. Remove to a plate and cut into long thin strips. 4 Bring a pan half full of water to the boil for blanching. Cut the carrot and sweet potato into long thin strips and blanch till just tender. Remove to a plate and allow to cool. Slice the pickled radish and cucumber into same-size long thin strips and place beside the carrot and sweet potato. 5 To assemble the kimbap rolls, have a finger bowl of cold water to hand, and place a sheet of nori on to a sushi mat. Place a quarter of the rice on to the nori and, using slightly wet fingers, spread in an even layer over the sheet, leaving a 1cm border along the bottom edge closest to you, and a 2cm border along the top edge of the sheet furthest away. Wet your fingers to prevent the rice sticking to them. 6 Take 1 2 teaspoons of the spinach and place in a thin line horizontally along the rice, approximately one-third up from the bottom. Lay strips of the vegetables neatly alongside the spinach, alternating the colours attractively. 7 Roll the mat from the bottom edge closest to you, firmly encasing and tucking in the filling, gently pressing down to keep the roll tight and intact. Continue to roll up the kimbap and, as you reach the top, dab a little water along the bare edge of the nori to seal the roll. Set aside while you make the remaining rolls. 8 To serve, slice the rolls into 8 pieces with a very sharp knife. It helps to moisten the blade with a little water to slice through cleanly. Eat straight away with the hot and sweet sesame dipping sauce. n PER SERVING 345 cals, fat 12.9g, sat fat 1.8g, carbs 49.9g, sugars 7g, protein 8.1g, salt 3g, fibre 4.5g KIMBAP Hot and sweet sesame dipping sauce There are many soy-based dipping sauce recipes, and this is one based on several that combines the classic Korean flavours of chilli, soy, vinegar and sesame oil. 1 tsp sesame seeds 3 tbsp gochujang (or hot chilli sauce) 1 tbsp shoyu 1 tsp soft brown sugar 1 tbsp white rice vinegar 1 clove garlic, finely minced Toast the sesame seeds in a hot dry frying pan. Place in a small bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. 26 022-6_VL76[Rach_Korean]NT3SJ.indd 26 20/09/2016 12:10