FRESHPRESS July 17, 2012 Mount Hood rises over Hood River, Ore., the jumping-off point for wine touring in the Columbia Gorge. (Courtesy of the Hood River Chamber of Commerce) Fresh Press is a weekly publication of Wine Press Northwest magazine. In each edition, we review recently released wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Feel free to forward to your wine-loving friends and family. For more information on our tasting methods and review process, please go to the last page.
Spotlight: Summer wine touring With gas prices in Washington and Oregon hovering around $3.50 down a good 50 cents from a month ago many are thinking of getting out and around the Northwest for quick vacations. The Summer issue of Wine Press Northwest is dedicated to a dozen three-day itineraries around Northwest wine country, and we want to share some of these ideas here today for any long weekends that might open up on your calendar in the next couple of months. By our count, there are about 1,500 wineries in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho, so there is plenty for everyone. Here are a few regions worth visiting this summer: Washington Chelan: This is one of the youngest wineproducing regions in the state, with just 250 acres of grapes planted since 1998 and about 20 wineries populating the region around the southern tip of the third-deepest lake in North America. Getting to the wineries is fairly simple, as they are clustered on either the north or south shore, and most are within a few minutes of the city of Chelan. While the region is young, it is growing up in a hurry, thanks to the influence of such veteran winemakers as Ray Sandidge (C.R. Sandidge) and Katy Perry (Tildio). Additionally, many wineries offer onsite restaurants for the ultimate wine country experience. Leading the way is Tsillan Cellars on the south shore, a Tuscan-style winery with a gorgeous view of the lake and adjacent vineyards. It features Sorrento s Ristorante and its Italian cuisine. We also can heartily recommend Vin du Lac (our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year) on the north shore and its on-site bistro. And the nightly vineyard barbecue at Lake Chelan Winery might be the most fun you can have in the region. Where else to visit in Washington: Woodinville, Yakima Valley/Red Mountain/Tri-Cities, Walla Walla Valley, Olympic Peninsula, Spokane. Oregon Columbia Gorge: The stretch along the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington is one of the Okanagan Lake dominates the view in most of the Okanagan Valley. This is in a vineyard on the Naramata Bench. most beautiful in America, and now it s lined with wineries, restaurants and lodging that will easily fill a long weekend. Use Hood River as your base, perhaps staying at the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel, where you ll find great food and stylish rooms to rest in after a long day of sipping and spitting. Also consider the beautiful Skamania Lodge on the Washington side of the Bridge of the Gods. You ll find wineries on both sides of the Columbia River, with clusters in Hood River, The Dalles, Bingen and Lyle. On the eastern edge near the town of Goldendale, Wash., is Maryhill Winery, which offers great wines, a fantastic concert venue and an amazing view of the Gorge and Mount Hood. For food, Hood River is the epicenter, so check out Celilo Restaurant, Riverside at the Hood River Inn, Three Rivers Grill and Stonehedge Gardens and Bistro. One of our favorite stops on the Washington side is Walking Man Brewery in Stevenson, and dinners at the Lyle Hotel can be amazing. Where else to visit in Oregon: Willamette Valley, Southern Oregon. British Columbia Okanagan Valley: Four hours east of Vancouver is the heart of the wine industry in Western Canada and the most important viticultural area in the country. The Okanagan Valley is 100 miles long, starting at the U.S. border and heading north. We suggest starting at one end and working your way to the other. Another strategy is to stay in
Spotlight: Summer wine touring Penticton, then spend a day in the south Okanagan around Osoyoos and Oliver, a day on the Naramata Bench and a day in Summerland, Peachland and Kelowna. You ll find great restaurants throughout the valley, as at least 20 wineries have on-site restaurants. Our favorites include Cellar Door Bistro at Sumac Ridge and Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek. Other don t miss wineries: Gehringer Brothers in Oliver, Wild Goose and Stag s Hollow in Okanagan Falls, 8th Generation in Summerland, the iconic Mission Hill near Kelowna and Gray Monk in Okanagan Centre. As far as bringing wine back goes: You shouldn t have much trouble bringing back up to a few cases. You will need to pay an IRS tax of about 21 cents per liter if the folks at U.S. Customs bother to collect it. Where else to visit in British Columbia: Gulf Islands, Vancouver Island and Lower Mainland. Idaho Snake River Valley: The heart of the Idaho wine industry is the Snake River Valley near the cities of Nampa and Caldwell. Most of the state s 40-plus wineries are here. Choose to stay in Boise (about 30 minutes away) or in wine country. In fact, several wineries have chosen to locate in the capital city. Boise also is where you will find most of the restaurants, including Red Feather Lounge, Bittercreek Alehouse and Berryhill & Co. In wine country, check out Brick 29 in Nampa or The Orchard House near Ste. Chapelle. For breakfast, it s hard to beat Bacon or Goldy s, both in downtown Boise, a short walk from Hotel 43. Ste. Chapelle is the state s oldest and largest winery, and it s now owned by Precept Wines in Seattle. It has a fun tasting room in the heart of the viticultural area. We also highly recommend Bitner, Fujishin, Indian Creek, Koenig, Sawtooth and Williamson. In Boise, do not miss Cinder, our Idaho Winery of the Year. Where else to visit in Idaho: The Panhandle and the Palouse. New releases we ve tasted Pinot Noir Excellent. Torii Mor Winery 2009 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $55. Winemaker Jacques Tardy dips into one of his favorite vineyards for this high-end Pinot Noir. Torii Mor, which is based high in the Dundee Hills, has tapped into this nearby vineyard for a decade, and it uses its grapes in four different bottlings. It is a bit old school with classic Wadensvil and Pommard clones making up the majority of the fruit, as well as about 28% Dijon clone 114. The resulting wine opens with aromas of cedar, saddle leather, cherries, chocolate and violets. On the palate, this wine is mostly about strawberries and Bing cherries classic Dundee Hills as well as hints of Baker s chocolate and cola. It is loaded with bright acidity and should continue to grow in complexity for the next several years. (150 cases, 13.9% alc.) Excellent. Torii Mor Winery 2009 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $60. Olsen Estate is one of the oldest plantings in the Dundee Hills, with vines dating back to 1972. It is perfectly situated on south-southwest slopes at 825 feet in elevation. This opens with luscious aromas of dark plums, forest floor, raspberries and hickory smoke, followed by flavors of cherries, blackberries, blueberries and even a hint of lime zest all backed with dark chocolate. We like this wine now, and we ll really love it in another two to three years. (250 cases, 13.9% alc.) Red blends Recommended. Ginkgo Forest Winery 2009 Wildwood Blend, Wahluke Slope, $24. Ginkgo is an up-and-comer on Washington s remote but important Wahluke Slope, and this Bordeaux-style blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Merlot (22%), Malbec (20%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (11% each). It opens with aromas of saddle leather, rose hips, mint and cherry fruit leather, followed by flavors of juicy blueberries, cherries, dried cranberries, raspberries and cocoa powder. Pair this with hearty lasagna to tame the assertive tannins. (205 cases, 13.9% alc.) Chardonnay Recommended. Pondera Winery 2011 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $28. Conner Lee is a vineyard on the Columbia Plateau of Eastern Washington, not far from the town of Othello, and its grapes are prized by many of the state s top winemakers. This delicious Chardonnay opens with aromas of lemon juice, toasted almonds and a whiff of lime, followed by flavors of citrus zest, honeycomb and butter, all backed with solid acidity. Pair this with grilled halibut. (103 cases, 13.5% alc.)
New releases we ve tasted Pinot Gris Excellent. Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2011 Estate Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $18. For natural acidity that really allows a wine s bright fruit flavors to shine, it is difficult to beat British Columbia s Okanagan Valley. And we especially love Pinot Gris, which tends to be beautifully expressed north of the border. This offering from ex-pat Sandra Oldfield is a classic, with aromas of Granny Smith apples, lemongrass and lovely floral notes, followed by beautifully balanced flavors of spearmint, yellow grapefruit and a hint of slate in the finish. (4,277 cases, 12.5% alc.) Gewürztraminer Excellent. Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2011 Estate Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $18. More than a decade ago, we poured a Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer to one of California s top wine critics, and he declared it one of the greatest versions of the variety this side of Alsace. In the years since, we ve come to view the Okanagan Valley as the gold standard for New World Gewürztraminer because of its stunning acidity in a variety that is normally on the flaccid side, and this version from Tinhorn continues to be a classic. It opens with aromas of tropical fruit, peach cobbler, kiwi and sweet tea, followed by beautiful flavors of yellow grapefruit, lime zest, quince and cotton candy. It s fairly dry, and the fruit and acidity are harmonious. (3,640 cases, 13.1% alc.) Viognier Outstanding! Best Buy! Farm Boy Wines 2010 Upland Vineyard Viognier, Snipes Mountain, $14. Our idea of a great Washington Viognier includes orange Creamsicle and loads of acidity not something that comes easily to this fickle grape from France s Rhône Valley. But winemaker Robert Smasne has the touch with this wine, as he links up with third-generation grape grower Todd Newhouse to craft one of the best Viogniers we ve tasted this year. It opens with that Creamsicle aroma we adore, along with notes of mangoes, cream soda, lime and pineapples. On the palate, it shows off flavors of cling peaches, honeydew melon, lime, honey and mango. It s a great wine to open on the deck with blue cheese melted over fresh figs. (650 cases, 13.5% alc.) Excellent. Best Buy! Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vineyards Viognier, Wahluke Slope, $15. Here s another superb wine from Victor Palencia and Jones of Washington, our 2012 Washington Winery of the Year. Palencia uses grapes from the estate Jones Vineyard on the warm Wahluke Slope, and thankfully, he left it away from oak, allowing all the luscious fruit to shine. It opens with aromas of white peaches, lemons, limes and yellow roses, followed by big, rich flavors of Mandarin oranges, jasmine flowers, mint, sweet apples and peach sherbet. There is a bit of residual sweetness on this wine, making it a delicious porch pounder. (240 cases, 12.9% alc.) White blends Outstanding! Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2011 2Bench White, Okanagan Valley, $23. Sandra Oldfield escaped California in the 90s to make wine in the frontier of the New World: the Okanagan Valley, and Tinhorn Creek has helped lead the way for what the region has become. The latest addition is Miradoro, Tinhorn s on-site restaurant. This superb white wine is a blend of Chardonnay (52%), Sauvignon Blanc (31%), Viognier (11%) and equal parts Semillon and Muscat. It is a fascinating wine with aromas of spearmint, honeysuckle, lemon zest, lychee and passion fruit, followed by rich flavors of peaches, lemons, grapefruits, melons and a hint of almond. Delicious! (1,008 cases, 12.5% alc.) Excellent. Pleasant Hill Cellars 2011 Constance's Cuvée, Columbia Valley, $17. Larry Lindvig is another successful graduate of the Boeing Wine Club to go professional. Today, he produces about 1,500 cases annually at this winery in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains. This is a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and equal parts Pinot Gris and Viognier. It is an exotic wine with aromas of pineapples, apricots, lime and bubblegum, followed by flavors of gooseberries, lemons, limes, oranges and mangoes. It s a delicious, beautifully balanced white wine. (47 cases, 14.4% alc.) Outstanding! Best Buy! Smasne Cellars 2010 Upland Vineyard Konner Ray White, Snipes Mountain, $15. Robert Smasne s winemaking facility is in the heart of the Yakima Valley, not far from Snipes Mountain near the town of Sunnyside, so his collaboration with grape grower Todd Newhouse creates great synergy. This white blend is mostly Viognier (69%) but also includes Chardonnay and two rare grapes: Aligoté and Morio Muskat. The result is a delicious wine with aromas of lemon-lime, candy corn, oranges and pears, followed by flavors of lemon curd, tropical fruit, sweet limes, crushed almonds and Golden Delicious apples, We love the creamy mouth feel and the hint of residual sugar. (275 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Northwest wine regions Multi-state appellations Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size and takes up a third of Washington. Established in 1984. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation begins around the town of Lyle and heads west to Husum on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It was established in 2004. Walla Walla Valley: Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington and around Milton-Freewater, Ore. Established in 1984. Snake River Valley: This is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It covers 8,263 square miles and was established in 2007. Washington Yakima Valley: The Northwest s oldest appellation (established in 1983) stretches past Wapato in the west to Benton City in the east and includes Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain. Red Mountain: Washington s smallest appellation is a ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. It is 4,040 acres in size. Established in 2001. Horse Heaven Hills: This large appellation 570,000 acres is south of the Yakima Valley and stretches to the Oregon border. It was established in 2005. Wahluke Slope: Approved in early 2006, this huge landform north of the Yakima Valley is an 81,000-acre gravel bar created by the Ice Age Floods. It is one of the warmest regions in the entire Pacific Northwest. Established in 2006. Rattlesnake Hills: This appellation is in the western Yakima Valley north of the towns of Zillah, Granger and Outlook. The appellation is 68,500 acres in size with about 1,300 acres of vineyards. It was established in 2006. Puget Sound: This sprawling appellation is in Western Washington. It stretches from the Olympia area to the Canadian border north of Bellingham. It also sweeps through the San Juan Islands and to Port Angeles. Established in 1995. Snipes Mountain: This is one of Washington s oldest wine-growing regions. At 4,145 acres in size, it is the state s second-smallest AVA. Grapes have been grown on Snipes Mountain and at the adjacent Harrison Hill (also part of the AVA) since 1914. This AVA was approved in 2009. Lake Chelan: This area in north-central Washington is almost entirely within the Columbia Valley. It is a young area, with the oldest vines dating to 1998. About 250 acres are planted here. It was approved in 2009. Naches Heights: Approved in 2011, this area near the city of Yakima has fewer than 50 acres of grapes planted. Oregon Willamette Valley: Oregon s largest appellation stretches roughly from Portland to Eugene. Established in 1984. Ribbon Ridge: This is the Northwest s smallest appellation at 3,350 acres. It is best known for its Pinot Noir and is within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It was established in 2005. Yamhill-Carlton: This is a horseshoe-shaped appellation that surrounds the towns of Yamhill and Carlton. It was established in 2005. The District was dropped in 2011. Chehalem Mountains: This is the largest within the Willamette Valley. This 62,100-acre appellation is northeast of the Dundee Hills. It was established in 2006. Dundee Hills: Many of Oregon s pioneer wineries are in the Dundee Hills within Oregon s Yamhill County. The appellation is 6,490 acres in size. It was established in 2005. Eola-Amity Hills: This important region stretches from the town of Amity in the north to the capital city of Salem in the southeast. It is 37,900 acres in size. It was established in 2006. McMinnville: The hills south and west of the Yamhill County city of McMinnville are more than 40,000 acres in size. It was established in 2005. Umpqua Valley: This Southern Oregon appellation surrounds the city of Roseburg north of the Rogue Valley. It can produce Pinot Noir as well as warm-climate grapes. It was established in 1984. Rogue Valley: The Northwest s southern-most appellation surrounds the cities of Medford and Ashland, just north of the California border. It is known for its warm growing conditions. Established in 2001. Applegate Valley: This small valley within the Rogue Valley is known for a multitude of microclimates that can result in wines of distinction and complexity. Established in 2004. Southern Oregon: This AVA encompasses the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and Red Hill Douglas County. It was established in 2005. Red Hill Douglas County: This tiny appellation just 5,500 acres is within the Umpqua Valley. Fewer than 200 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir, are grown here. Established in 2005. British Columbia Okanagan Valley: In the province s interior, this 100- mile valley stretches from the border in Osoyoos to Salmon Arm in the north. Most wineries are near Oliver, Penticton and Kelowna. It was established in 1990. Similkameen Valley: This warm valley is west of the southern Okanagan Valley. It was established in 1990. Vancouver Island: This marine-influenced appellation is in the southwest part of the province. Established in 1990. Fraser Valley: This farming area is in the Lower Mainland, south of Vancouver. Established in 1990. Gulf Islands: This appellation includes approximately 100 islands spread out between Vancouver Island and the southern mainland. Established in 2005.
About us Wine Press Northwest is a quarterly consumer magazine that focuses on the wine regions of Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Annual subscriptions are $20. Click to subscribe. Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman edegerman@winepressnw.com 2012 Tasting methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them blind, meaning the tasting panelists do not know the producer. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in temperature-controlled conditions, allowing them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/ marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as Recommended. The panel may also vote the wine as Excellent or Outstanding, our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Seattle Wine Awards, Northwest Wine Summit, British Columbia Wine Awards, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Capital Food & Wine Fest, North Central Washington Wine Awards and Idaho Wine Competition.