Ca b e r n e t Fr a n c Va n d a l Vi n e y a r d Los Ca r n e r o s, Na p a Va l l e y 2006
Li f e Ou t of Ba l a n c e! An d finding it a g a i n on a n i n t e g r a t e d f a r m... By Rob Sinskey I received a complaint the other day. One of our Glutton and Gourmand wine club members expressed concern that Maria s monthly recipes were too meat-centric*, suggesting we not support such a resource intensive branch of agriculture. My knee jerk reaction was to agree with her... until I thought about it. Animals played a vital role on the integrated farm until the mid-20th century. With the aid of technology, agribusiness created an industrial farm model that changed the agrarian landscape by concentrating large numbers of animals in warehouses. With such large numbers, the land no longer could support the animals nutritional needs or absorb their waste. In nature, there is no waste. Animals graze, hunt, nurture their young and increase and decrease in numbers based on the resources available. Their being is part of an ecosystem that makes use of their excess and waste. A successful integrated farm models itself on nature. It finds the right number of animals to balance the resources within a closed-loop, sustainable system. Animals take the place of tractors for mowing, plowing and other heavy work. The animals waste feeds the land, that grows the grass, that feeds the cow, that sustains the farmer. Meat production, in itself, is not the issue. The problem is the factory farm and the consumer who unintentionally supports thoughtless meat producers. Our free capitalist society (some argue that the farm bill is not a good example of free capitalism, but I will save that topic for another day) carries with it a responsibility and a burden borne by each citizen. Every time we spend a dollar, we deposit a vote in the ballot box that determines our future. When we buy cheap, factory raised meat, we support the type of industrialized, wasteful farming required to provide such produce. What seems cheap at the cash register becomes dearly expensive as the real costs of pollution, energy waste and squandered natural resources exact their toll. A few years ago, I hosted a Slow Foods dinner in Boulder, Colorado and sat next to a pig farmer. He told me a life out of balance story, describing his transformation from small hog farmer to big industrial pork producer. He explained how he was slowly seduced by the promise of return on investment made possible by the professed ability of science and industry to overcome the problems of high density pig farming. He borrowed money and became dependent on outside suppliers for the health and well-being of his warehoused pigs. They required supplements to grow fast and antibiotics to survive the constant threat disease posed to their inbred immune systems. Excessive waste required mechanized, fossil fuel based solutions to disperse the toxic slurry. His health declined under the stress to meet his mortgage. He grew dissatisfied with a sedentary lifestyle rife with administrative tasks and the decline in the quality of his pork made him downright angry. The coup de grâce ( 1 ) Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006
When we buy cheap, factory raised meat, we support the type of industrialized, wasteful farming required to provide such produce. came when processing companies paid him so little for his meat that he had to pay to have his hogs slaughtered. Facing bankruptcy, he had an epiphany. He reversed course, sold all his industrial equipment and returned to the life of a farmer with a small drove of heirloom, free-range pigs. He now sells his premium pork direct to consumers and restaurants, and makes a better living than when he had eleven hundred commercial pigs. Yes, his pork is more expensive than the commercial fare, but it is also more flavorful and interesting. When we buy his pork, we support a way of life that has mostly disappeared from this country. We support a farm in balance with its environment and we preserve heirloom breeds. If it is more expensive, maybe we eat less, but we eat, and live, better. *Maria usually, but not always, offers a vegetarian option when meat is used as an ingredient in her recipes. ( 2 )
Winegrowing No t e s Ca b e r n e t Fr a n c - A w i n e in b a l a n c e. By Rob Sinskey T he Vandal Vineyard, in the Northern reaches of the Carneros, is a living organic and Biodynamic farm. Trees top the hills and cover crops adorn the land between the vines. Sheep graze in the winter, birth their lambs in the spring, have their wool sheared before the heat of summer arrives and, a few, grace our table in the fall. It is the cycle of life. The sheep reduce tractor use, enrich the soil, keep us warm with their wool and nurture us with their meat. Fortunately we can celebrate with a glass of Cabernet Franc made better by their existence. Carneros is cool enough for a long growing season -- the ideal climate for the finicky Cabernet Franc vine to mature in flavor without gaining sugars too early. This results in a balanced wine with deep, ripe flavor, refreshing acidity and moderate alcohol, for a bright, elegant mouthfeel. The flavor profile walks that fine line between New and Old World, exhibiting the best characteristics of the Franc variety. (70 barrels produced) Sheep graze in the winter, birth their lambs in the spring, have their wool sheared before the heat of summer arrives and, a few, grace our table in the fall. It is the cycle of life. Ta s t i n g No t e s : SV s organic and Biodynamic Vandal Vineyard R gives Cabernet Franc color that holds light like a deep-hued ruby. Tempting aromas of a bramble thicket, heavy with ripe berries on a hot summer afternoon, join spicy notes of licorice and vanilla in begging a sip. A taste brings black and red berries spiked with spices and sweet herbs. Supple tannins and a refreshing cut of acidity set the mind to work on complimentary victuals. RSV lamb, anyone? (Eric Sothern - 10/20/2009) 100% CCOF Certified Organic and Demeter Certified Biodynamic Vineyards ( 3 ) Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006
A Dinner in Balance S ucculent braised lamb for succulent wine! Braises are rich, satisfying and pair well with a wine of superlative structure rich fruit, fine tannins and refreshing acidity. RSV s Cabernet Franc has all that and more. It s a pleasure to sit down at the table and allow it to heighten the enjoyment of a pleasant, well-cooked meal. Redolent of violets, chocolate and red stone fruits, this wine sings with braises and roasts, but don t overlook Francs flexibility for a meatless pairing with dishes like macaroni and cheese or braised wild mushrooms. It will embrace these dishes like old friends. I love to serve anything braised with polenta because it sops up all the fragrant juices. Most polenta is milled from the interior of the corn kernel (endosperm) leaving behind all of the fiber, and the majority of the nutrition, of the corn. Look for whole grain polenta such as the Organic Polenta Integrale from Anson Mills. This freshly milled whole grain polenta tastes almost like fresh corn with a really wonderful texture and flavor. It is a favorite of chefs in the know across the country. Until the next wine Maria ( 5 ) Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006
Succulent Re d Wine -Braise d Lamb with Creamy Polenta (Substitute root vegetables, such as parsnips, rutabagas and celery root, along with some wild mushrooms, for the lamb to enjoy a hearty, meat-free meal.) Serves 4 to 6 4 pounds lamb leg, cut into 2-inch pieces Salt Freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil 3 medium carrots 2 medium yellow onion 6 medium garlic cloves 4 cups dry red wine 1 1/2 cups tomato puree 2 bay leaves 1/4 cup packed parsley leaves 2 4-inch rosemary sprigs 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F oven. Ready a 5-quart Dutch oven or similar covered baking dish. Season the lamb well with salt and pepper. Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pan and brown the lamb well in batches. Transfer to the Dutch oven. Add the carrots, onion and garlic to the pan and brown lightly. Add to the lamb. Add the wine to the pan to deglaze and boil for 5 minutes to reduce. Pour over the lamb and vegetables. Add the tomato puree, bay leaves, parsley and rosemary to the lamb. Cover the Dutch oven and place it in the preheated oven. Braises are rich, satisfying and pair well with a wine of superlative structure rich fruit, fine tannins and refreshing acidity. Braise the lamb 1 hour covered, and then 45 minutes to 1 hour uncovered, until the lamb is meltingly tender and the juices are reduced. Discard the bay leaves and rosemary stems. Skim off fat and serve with polenta or your favorite side dish. Note: Can be made 1 to 3 days in advance. Remove hardened fat from top and before reheating. Great main dish to make ahead and freeze. Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006 ( 6 )
( 7 ) Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006
Po l e n t a Serve 6 to 8 Polenta is a wonderfully simple and satisfying dish. Look for polenta that is milled with the germ intact, for better flavor, texture and nutrition. 3 cups water 1 cup whole milk 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/4 cups polenta 1 1/4 teaspoon salt Bring liquid and butter to a boil in a medium saucepan. Whisk in the polenta and stir with the whisk until smooth. Reduce heat to low and cook for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until very tender. Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006 ( 8 )
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Polenta with Pancetta, Parmesan and Eggs A r e c i p e fo r th e mo r n i n g af t e r This is a great breakfast dish for leftover polenta. Serves 4 to 6 6 thin slices pancetta 2 tablespoons butter 2 to 3 cups cooked polenta 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley 6 large eggs 1. 2. 3. 4. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cook the pancetta until almost crisp in a 10-inch sauté pan. Remove from the pan and drain the pancetta on a paper towel or rack. Drain the fat from the pan and heat over medium heat, add the butter. When the butter starts to brown, add the polenta to the pan and stir to loosen. Cook until the polenta is heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and parsley. Make 6 evenly spaced hollows in the polenta. Crack an egg in each hollow. Season the yolk with a little salt and pepper. Top the eggs with the pancetta. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny, about 15 minutes. Serve with toasted Italian bread. Cabernet Franc - Vandal Vineyard - Los Carneros - 2006 ( 10 )
Cabernet Franc Vandal Vineyard Los Ca r n e r o s, Na p a Va l l e y 2006 Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Recipes: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Tasting Notes: Eric Sothern Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum Editing: RSV Group Effort Printed on 100% recycled paper using soy based ink R o b e r t S i n s k e y V i n e y a r d s N a p a, C a l i f o r n i a Fine Wines from Organic Vines 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 - tel 707.944.9090 or 800.869.2030 www.robertsinskey.com