Issue 127 Review Round-Up July / August 2006 Reviews Barossa Old Vine Company Shiraz 2003 High-toned, smoky aromas of cherry preserves, dark plum, blackberry and cured tobacco. There s great power to the ripe fruit flavors but also a sense of elegance thanks to subtle acids. Impressively dense and almost sweet on the palate, with sexy oak spice tones adding complexity to the sweet, powerful dark berry qualities. 92 Points Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2005 Deep violet. Powerful, ripe aromas of blackberry, candied licorice, tar, oak spice and fresh flowers are precise and hugely seductive. Offers great intensity or raspberry and blackberry liqueur flavor, with sexy baking spice notes. Bleasdale Vineyards Verdelhmo Langhorne Creek 2005 Greentinged straw. Bright, floral aromas of pungent herbs, snap, pea, watercress and green apple. Bracing, firm-edged and dry, the apple and pear flavors tinged by minerl and licorice notes. Bleasdale Vineyards Mulberry Tree Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne 2003 Medium red. Pretty, nicely focused bouquet of spicy red fruits, dried flowers and minerals. Poised and elegant, with vibrant red fruit flavors and notes of dried herbs and baking spices. Bleasdale Vineyards Frank Potts Langhorne Creek 2003 Dark violet. Spiced tinged aromas of boysenberry, blackberry and blueberry. Deep, concentrated and structured, with youthful tannins framing bitter cherry and crème de mure flavors. Branson Coach House Shiraz Greenock Block Barossa Valley 2004 Sexy, oak spice drive aromas of blackberry, candied plum and violet. Broad and lush, with sweet dark fruit flavors showing impressive breadth and depth. 91 Points Branson Coach House Shiraz Block Barossa Valley 2004 Deep, lush and sweet on the nose, with powerful scents of crème de mure, cassis, boysenberry, dark plum and violet. Then elegant and poised on the palate, showing great sweetness of dark fruit and impressive structure, with lively acidity adding focus. 94 Points
Craneford Wines Viognier Adelaide Hills 2005 Light gold. Delicate and fresh on the nose, with suggestions of white peach, pear and yellow apple. Unadorned, bright and brisk on the palate, the fruit flavors showing good energy and precision. Craneford Wines Allyson Parsons Shiraz Barossa Valley 2004 Dark purple. Dusty bitter cherry, dark chocolate and espresso tones on the nose, with a subtle hint of dried violet. Opens with ripe blackberry and boysenberry flavors but firms up with air, taking on a dried cherry tone. 87 Points Craneford Wines Grenache Barossa Valley 2004 Dense ruby. Superripe blackberry, plum jam and boysenberry on the nose, with suggestions of smoked meat and roasted coffee; a slightly raisined note comes up with air. Craneford Wines Merlot Barossa Valley 2004 Dark red. Textbook merlot notes of minty cherry and chocolate on the nose, with a deeper coffee tone. Fat and almost oily, with bitter-edged cherry and licorice flavors showing a meaty, earthy character. Powerful, chewy and dense, the dark cherry note repeating on the finish. 87+ Points Craneford Wine Shiraz Barossa Valley 2004 Inky ruby. Deeply spiced aromas of plum, cherry and blackberry, with a meaty topnote. Crisp, focused and energetic, with vibrant dark berry flavors complicated by cracked pepper and olive and framed by lively acids. DeLisio Wines Quarterback McLaren Vale 2004 Ruby red. Fresh cherry, plum and roasted herbs on the nose, with a subtle note of mint. Fleshy and bright, with flavors of redcurrant, spicy cherry and graphite. Glaetzer Wallace Barrosa Valley 2004\ Bright-rimmed violet. Smoky, sexy aromas or ripe blackberry, blueberry and candied cherry, with complicating licorice and dried rose tones. Quite sweet, showing a ripe crème de cassis flavor along with notes of raspberry and mocha. Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz Barossa Valley 2004 Saturated violet. Inky, primal blackberry, cassis and cherry pit on the nose. Pwerful and dense, with a structured impression of dark cherry, candied plum and sweet tobacco. This has a serious foundation of concentrated dark fruits and tannins, but there s also impressive sweetness. 91+ Points Glaetzer Shiraz Barossa Valley 2004 Inky ruby. Spicy blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate on the nose, with complicationg notes of espresso and dried violet. Cool and restrained, with a suave, silky tone to the dark fruit flavors and gentle acids bringing freshness and energy. 93 Points
Glen Eldon Riesling Eden Valley 2005 Green-gold. Spicy, citrus-toned bouquet of lime, lemon zest and jasmine. Stony and quite dry at first but loosens up and takes on a silkier texture, offering flavors of orange and dried peach. 86 Points Haan Wines Hanenhof Semillon Barossa Valley 2005 Pale gold. Lush and open, with scents of melon, peach pit and orange lifted by tangy mineral tones. At once silky and tangy, showing an interesting blend of fresh tropical fruits and more bracing citrus character. Haan Wines Hanenhof Viognier Barossa Valley 2005 Green-gold Crisp, focused and pure on the nose, with subtle aromas of white peach, pear, apple, white flowers and fennel. Clean and freshm with a lively set of citrus and orchard fruit flavors and no excess weight or sweetness. Heggie s Chardonnay Eden Valley 2005 Pale gold. Spicy and mineral-tinged on the nose, with precise notes of citrus pith and green apple. Distinctly elegant, structured chardonnay, emphasizing minerality and taut, refreshingly bitter citrus flavors that carry nicely through the crisp, bracing finish. Heggie s Viognier Eden Valley 2005 Green-gold. Textbook peach and apricot aromas, with a ripe melon note coming up with air. Powerful and deep, the melon tone deepening toward the back. This is really filled in and lush. Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon South 2004 Dark red. Spicy and fruit-dominated on the nose, with strong cherry, cassis and chocolate aromas. Nothing remotely herbal here, just lush, rounded red and dark fruit flavors framed by gentle, molten tannins. Kaesler Avignon Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro Barossa 2005 Bright ruby. Broad, smoky and fresh on the nose, with bright red berry and cherry aromas tinged by dried flowers and fresh herbs. Riper on the palate, showing a blackberry quality, with good sweetness and a supple, lightly tannic texture. Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz Barossa Valley 2004 Dark violet. Pungent, spicy bouquet of blackberry candied plum, kirsch and violet. Silky in texture, with good weight and impressive vibrancy to the tangy blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Gentle tannins provide support to the sweet fruit, with bright floral tones adding complexity to the finish. 91 Points Kurtz Family Seven Sleepers/Siebenschlafer Red Wine 2004 Ruby red. Rich, smoky and chocolaty, with lush aromas of kirsch, raspberry and dark chocolate. More dark fruit in character on the palate, especially boysenberry and cassis, but also fresh and understated, with subtle spice adding complexity.
Langmeil Three Gardens Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvedre Barossa 2004 Ruby red. Smoky raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose, with a complicating whiff of meat. Lush and almost sweet, with a silky texture and pretty red fruit flavors. Langmeil The Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley 2004 Dense ruby. Ripe cassis and blackberry aromas, with complicating notes of tobacco, fresh herbs and tobacco. Lush and supple on the palate, with sweet dark berry flavors held in check by fine, dusty tannins. Wonderfully vibrant and focused on the finish, a sweet crème de cassis tone building with air. Langmeil Hangin Snakes Shiraz.Viognier Barossa Valley 2005 Bright violet. A fruit bomb of a nose, showing vibrant blackberry, candied cherry and crème de cassis aromas. Velvety by precise in flavor, with plenty of heft and sweetness to the fresh dark berry flavors. Longwood The Shearer Shiraz McLaren Vale 2005 Deep violet. Very sweet and open aromas of dark berries, cherry and licorice. Lush and powerful on the palate, the powerful dark fruit flavors full-blown and expressive. A weighty wine but one with good focus and lift. Margan Family Semillon Hunter Valley 2004 Light gold. Fresh and explosively floral on the nose, with aromas of fresh melon, peach, dried pear, apricot and floral honey. At once lush and focused, with vivid flavors of ripe peach, watermelon and papaya. Dry, firm and structured, with a lightness of touch that stands in contrast to the wine s richness of flavor. Margan Family Botrytis Semillon Hunter Valley 2005 Orange gold. Exotic but precise on the nose, with scents of candied apricot, peach, poached pear and ripe melon. In the mouth, bright acids provide lift to the lush orchard fruit flavors. 92 Points Mesh Riesling Eden Valley 2005 Green-tinged straw color. Crisp and focused on the nose, with understated scents of white peach, pear, tangerine and minerals. Firm and spicy, showing strong apple and pear flavors. Oxford Landing Viognier South Australia 2005 Green-gold. Varietally accurate aromas of peach, apricot, apple and white flowers. Fresh and brisk, with no excess fat. This ought to appeal to those who are averse to loose-knit or overstated viognier. Oxford Landing Chardonnay South Australia 2005 Light gold. Smoky tropical fruits and candied fig on the nose, with hints of jasmine and honeysuckle. A chewy, nicely concentrated mid weight, with orange and tangerine fruit flavors and good lift on the finish. 87 Points
Oxford Landing Sauvignon Blanc South Australia 2005 Green-tinged silver color. Aromas or pear and chalk, with none of the herbal quality one usually finds at this price point. This would be a fruit bomb of apple and pear it not for a refreshing mineral tone keeping thins in check. Penny s Hill Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004 Deep ruby. Intensely aromatic nose combines bitter cherry, dark chocolate, candied licorice, dried violet and black tea. Fat, lush and creamy, with dark fruit flavors given shape by supple tannins. 90+ Points Reilly s Old Bushcine Grenache Clare Valley 2004 Dark red. Powerful and sweet on the nose, with strong raspberry and strawberry liqueur aromas and no earthy qualities. A real fruit bomb but there s also good focus to the ripe, sweet red fruit flavors, with gentle tannins giving shape to the wine. Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2004 Dark red. Spicy and subtly herbal on the nose, with notes of wild strawberry, cassis, fresh tobacco and iron. Focused and juicy but a bit wound up, with taut red fruit flavors framed by firm, dusty tannins. 88+ Points Ross Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley 2003 Inky ruby. Powerfully sweet and rich on the nose, with potent raspberry and strawberry aromas tinged by smoked meat and underbrush. Fat and sweet but kept fresh by ripe acidity, which gives focus to the lush raspberry and ripe strawberry flavors. Ross Estate Shiraz Reserve Barossa Valley 2003 Exotic, flat-out gorgeous bouquet of ripe blackberry, cherry preserves and sexy oak spices; smells like a $100 shiraz, with captivating sweetness and precision to the red and dark berry character. 92 Points St. Mary s Vineyard Bells & Whistles Limestone Coast 2004 Bright red. High-pitched, floral and spicy, with strong red berry and kirsch scents. Quite sweet and fleshy on entry, but firms up nicely in the middle palate, with the sweet cherry flavors developing complex herb and underbrush qualities on the back end. Sheep s Back Wine Old Vine Shiraz Barossa Valley 2003 Dark red. Wild and gamey on the nose, with spicy red berry and chocolate tones. Plump but juicy and bright on the palate, with raspberry and candied cherry flavors and no obvious tannins. Steve Hoff Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa 2003 Deep ruby. Explosively aromatic, expanding nose of blackberry, candied cherry and exotic spice scents. Lush and supple on the palate, showing abundant dark berry flavors and subtle notes of mocha and cinnamon.
Steve Hoff Shiraz Barossa 2003 Deep ruby. Sweet, powerful aromas of crème de cassis, blackberry, cherry cola and sexy oak spices. Full, dense and sweet, the dark fruit flavors strongly marked by notes of vanilla and baking spices. Sylvan Springs Hard Yards Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004 Dark red. Intensely smoky and sweet on the nose, with mineral and underbrush-tinged cherry and chocolate aromas and a strong note of smoked meat. Lush and round in the mouth, with cherry jam and plum flavors and powerful smoky tone. Tatiarra Cambrian Shiraz Heathcote 2004 Inky ruby. Youthful, tightly wound aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and black raspberry. Deep and powerful, showing great intensity to the dark fruit flavors, with earth and mineral tones adding complexity. With extended aeration, notes or dried flowers, tar and black cardamom came up. 91+ Points Vasse Felix Adams Road Chardonnay Margaret River 2005 Pale gold. Exotically ripe nose shows a perfumed quality to the powerful melon and peach aromas. Deep melon and orchard fruit flavors are kept firm by a dusty mineral note. 87 Points Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay Margaret River 2004 Green-gold. Smoky, pungently floral and spicy aromas of yellow plum, peach and cured meat. Complex, powerful and rich, the smoky note adding oomph to the rich orange and pear flavors. 91 Points Vassse Felix Shiraz Margaret River 2002 Inky violet. Rich, smoky aromas of perfumed raspberry and blackberry complicated by sexy oak spices. Plump and supple, the dark berry flavors showing impressive weight and sweetness. 91 Points Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2002 Deep ruby. Classic cabernet aromas or redcurrant, cherry, spicy licorice, roasted coffee, iron and dried flowers. Wonderfully fresh and precise, with vibrant cassis and bitter cherry flavors spreading across the palate. Water Wheel Memsie Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Roussanne Bendigo 2005 Pale gold. Fresh, energetic aromas of white flowers, pear, yellow apple and quince, with a vague nutty tone creeping in with air. The dry, nutty character continues on the palate, which shows strong peach and pear flavors and a firm texture. Water Wheel Memsie Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2004 Bitter cherry, dark chocolate, tobacco and espresso on the nose; really showing the malbec today. Tangy and nicely focused, wit a fresh cherry flavor and a solid, chewy texture.
Water Wheel Shiraz Bendigo 2004 Ruby red. Sexy, flamboyant aromas of blackberry, cassis, vanillin oak and baking spices, with accents of roasted coffee and dried rose. Full, broad and lush, the dark berry flavors displaying good sweetness and depth, with gentle, rounded tannins providing structure. Wildberry Estate Cabernet/Merlot Margaret River 2004 Dark red. Pungent, spicy aromas of redcurrant, cherry, anise, fresh herbs and pepper. Focused, bright and tightly wound, with red fruit flavors laced with herbs. This is far more Bordeaux in style than New World. Wildberry Estate Shiraz Margaret River 2004 Ruby red. Deep, sweet nose dominated by blackberry. Lush and round, the dark berry flavors nicely complemented by subtle acidity and gentle tannins. Impressively concentrated, focused and juicy, the fruit taking on a liqueur-like boysenberry quality on the back. Woop Woop V Verdelho South Australia 2006 Pale straw. Pungent scents of tangy citrus fruits and minerals. Firm and wound-up on entry, then quickly fills out to show crisp citrus and salty mineral flavors of impressive cut and energy. The finish offers notes of blood orange and honeysuckle. Woop Woop Chardonnay South Australia 2005 Bright yellow. Expressive, smoky aromas of orange, pineapple, mango and gentle spices. Quite complex for a wine at this price point, with tangy flavors of citrus pith and juicy pear. Woop Woop Chiraz South Australia 2005 Dark violet. Smoke-tinged blackberry and blackcurrant on the nose, with complicating notes of cured meat and sweet vanilla. Suave and round, with supple tannins framing sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors. Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2005 Light gold. Very fresh aromas or apricot, peach and ripe pear; all fruit, with nary a soil tone in sight. Round, juicy and loaded with orchard fruit flavors; finishes with a late note of dusty minerality. Yalumba Y Series Unwooded Chardonnay 2005 Pale gold. Elegant, floral aromas of mineral-tinged citrus and fresh melon. Light and brisk, the citrus flavors showing a tangy edge and good intensity. Brisk lemon and line finishing flavors provide good lift and focus. Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2005 Green-gold. Highly complex bouquet of peach, orange peel, lemongrass and smoky, cured meat. Tangy and bright in the mouth, the citrus flavors precise but also nicely filled in, with a not of dried peach lingering through the powerful, spicy finish.
Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley 2005 Green-gold. Pungent, floral and precise nose offers strong scents of peach, pear and orange sherbet. At once fleshy and sharply focused, the orange and tangerine flavors remaining vibrant and minerally through the bracing finish. Yalumba Hand Picked Tempranillo/Grenache/Viognier 2004 Dark red. Spicy and floral, with aromas of dark cherry, bitter chocolate and tea. Concentrated and youthful, but the dark fruit flavors come across as rather clenched today. 87+ Points Yalumba Hand Picked Mourvedre/Grenache/Shiraz 2004 Dark purple. Succelent, sweet aromas or ripe blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate, with an interesting floral rone. Pliant and soft, with gentle tannins framing lish dark fruit flavors that deepen with air. Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2002 Bright violet. Juicy, high-pitched aromas of redcurrant, cassis, cocoa powder and sweet underbrush. Quite round, even lush, on the palate, but the red and dark fruit flavors convey impressive structure and focus thanks to suave tannins and subtle acidity. 92 Points Yalumba The Signature Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Inky ruby. Dense, powerful nose offers redcurrant liqueur, cherry preserves, licorice, tobacco, saddle leather and dried rose. Sweet, supple and silky, with red and dark berry flavors expanding to saturate the palate. 93+ Points Yalumba Museum Tawny Victoria Dark amber. Nutty, tangy and fresh on the nose, with exotic aromas of candied orange, toffee, cherry pit and raspberry. Wild, exotic and compelling: a riot of sweet, nutty fruit flavors in conjunction with a viscous texture. 93 Points Yalumba Museum Muscat Deep copper color. Dense scents of cherry, candied plum, dar toffee, mocha and marzipan. Chewy, dense and remarkably deep, with powerful fruit tones ranging from red berries to caramelized orange, with complicating toffee and burnt sugar tones. 93 Points Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Good medium red. Slightly reduced aromas of cherry and underbrush, with a light herbal quality. Sweet, juicy and silky, with cherry, raspberry and herbal flavors that reminded me of Burgundy. A subtle, rather delicate midweight with a pliant texture. Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2001 Good medium red. Reticent but vinous nose suggest red fruits, flowers and pepper. A step up in intensity from the normale, with subtly complex flavors of small red berries, flowers and pepper. 90+ Points
Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Medium red. Aromas of cherry, plum, dried flowers and menthol. Supple, sweet and vinous, with rather sauve flavors of red berries, flowers, leather and tobacco. Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Good deep red ruby. Complex nose offers dark berries, minerals, licorice, mocha and bonfire, plus a suggestion of exotic fruits. Suave and lush but high-pitched and fresh, with sexy, juicy dark berry flavors and a hint of gamey reduction. 91+ Points Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Altero 2001 Deep, bright red-ruby. Primal aromas of blackberry, licorice, mocha, iron and game, with a distinctly wild, reduced aspect. Sweet, intensely flavored and gripping. 92+ Points