Robert Sinskey Vineyards POV, LOS CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY, 2010
I M THE CHAIRMAN OF THE BORED... by Rob Sinskey Craftsmanship in the era of the short attention span! I m bored. I often hear this refrain as my girls navigate the teen years - an irony since they attend demanding schools, are plugged into the social network, and anything can be a swipe of the fingertip away. I m also hearing this same refrain from sommeliers, wine journalists and wine drinkers these days. I m bored with (insert variety, winery or region here)! The urge for something new is irresistible, maybe even addicting - or have we just become conditioned to think we want something new? We have access like never before with the ability to discover new things daily on the information highway. As an Instagram abuser (@rsinvin), I can see culinary trends transmit across the world - oceans or languages are no longer barriers. We see culinary trends like farmto-table, cupcakes, pork belly, tacos, ramen, pho, and whole-animal begin when a plugged-in traveling chef discovers something in one corner of the world and returns home to post their latest creation online. Within weeks, chefs are creating their own versions and then, within a few months, the new dish or trend jumps the shark by appearing on corporate restaurant menus. The cycle continually shortens. It wasn t always that way - at one time we really didn t have a choice. We only knew (and had access to) what was local. What differentiated was the craft behind the product the honing, the skill, the knowledge that only time and repetition could provide. New or unusual was viewed suspiciously. Tried and true was cherished. Wine is a craft, but it is also an accident. Crush some grapes, put them in a crock, and they will ferment. It is up to luck if the result is something you want to drink. But put those same grapes in knowledgeable hands and they might become something ethereal. Historical wine regions have become refined over decades, if not centuries. This is no accident. Fine wine cannot chase trends because it takes too long and costs too much to plant, cultivate, make, and age wine. Instead of vacillating with the trends, wine regions have become more focused and refined by what works best. Burgundy is the land of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - while Chianti is mostly Sangiovese. Bordeaux is divided into the Left and Right banks (which in turn are divided into sub-regions), where the former is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and the latter Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Laws have been created by governments or ad-hoc vintner organizations to keep wine regions focused on what they do best and help maintain their identity. However, we make wine in the New World - the land of independence, the cowboy, the rebel - where no one tells us what to do and to hell with the rules. We certainly have been guilty of this attitude ourselves, but we ve now had over thirty years to sow our wild oats, experiment, and refine what works best, continuing to evolve, learning something new each year that adds to the knowledge gleaned from years past. So, instead of replanting our vineyards with the varieties of the Jura, our cure for boredom comes by answering the thrill ride of challenges posed by the four seasons in an attempt to capture the distinctiveness of vintage. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2 POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 3
V I N TAG E A N D V I N E YAR D S POV is born in the vineyards. Each vintage, the twists and turns of nature are captured in the bottle - water, sunlight, and the rise and fall of temperature. POV is never paint by number and therein lies its beauty. Each season brings forth its vegetables. These too are at the mercy of nature. Ideal growing conditions produce a bounty, while less than ideal have us competing for whatever shows up at the market. In this way, Nature has the ultimate power to dictate what arrives on our plate. I think about this often. Fideo has the ability to deliciously capture what nature has provided and serve it forth in one pan. The fennel in this recipe beautifully mirrors the hint of anise in POV. The broken noodles absorb the flavor of the vegetables and smoky ham which complement the high-toned, plum, and dark fruits edged with a bit of dried herb found in POV. In simpler terms the Fideo and POV sing together. Make the Fideo a bit ahead of dinner and let it sit and cool to warm before serving. This will give you a nice break and allow you to visit with your family and friends before sitting down to a deliciously simple meal. Until the Next Wine... Maria Winegrowing Notes Each year provides new parameters that are ultimately reflected in the character of the wine. RSV has learned over more than thirty years of wine growing that the Carneros has more in common with the Right Bank of Bordeaux than with the rest of Napa Valley. RSV s CCOF certified vineyards are ideal for the three classic grapes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The cooler climate allows longer hang time without compromising the natural acidity or brightness of the finished wines, especially in vintages like 2010. Small yields coupled with a long, cool growing season punctuated by a late season heat wave, created optimally-ripened, intensely-flavored fruit with a vibrant mouth feel. Tasting Notes The 2010 vintage of POV is a wine of unusually balanced contrasts. The long cool growing season was punctuated by a late season Indian summer for full development of flavor with a long, mouthwatering finish. Aromas of of blackberry jam, nutmeg, and bramble fill the senses at first pour, followed by notes of dried herbs, spice, and chocolate. The fruit forward nature of this vintage is tempered by firm tannins and good acidity, suggesting this wine has the structure for the long haul. The combination of bright fruit, herbs, and structure ensure it will find many companions at the dinner table. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 4 POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 5
TOASTED FIDEO WITH FENNEL, SMOKED HAM AND BLACK OLIVES I love the texture and flavor that toasting lends to the Fideo. Substitute seasonal vegetables in place of the fennel and leeks. Try to use at least one aromatic vegetable such as onion, garlic, shallots, or leeks for enhanced flavor. Chicken can be seared in the pan after the Fideo is toasted for a heartier dish. Slow-cooked pulled pork shoulder or beef is also a delicious addition. Serves 6 to 8 500g. (1.1 lbs.) Fideo Extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt 6 ounces thinly sliced speck or other smoked ham 1 medium leek, trimmed, washed, quartered lengthwise, sliced thinly 2 cups thinly sliced fennel, preferably baby or small bulbs Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup tomato puree 3 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano, divided 4 cups chicken stock ¼ cup pitted, sliced oil cured olives 1. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan or paella pan over medium high heat. When the pan is hot, add ¼ cup olive oil and then the Fideo. Stir constantly to lightly brown the Fideo, about 5 minutes. Transfer the Fideo to a bowl. 2. Keep the pan over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the pan and then the ham. Cook, stirring frequently until the ham is golden and crispy. 3. Add the leeks and fennel. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and starting to brown, 4 to 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper. 4. Add the tomato purée. Cook stirring constantly until the tomato paste starts to brown. 5. Add the Fideo back to the pan and stir to combine evenly with the vegetables. Add 2 teaspoons oregano and the chicken stock and stir to evenly distribute, pat into a uniform thickness in the pan. Bring the stock to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Set the timer for 10 minutes. 6. After 3 minutes, stir the Fideo to make sure that all of the noodles are moist. Stir again at 6 minutes. Continue to simmer until the Fideo starts to crackle and form a crust on the bottom. Slide a knife down the edge to check if a crust is forming. Turn off the heat. Sprinkle the olives and remaining oregano over the top. Rest for 15 minutes before serving. 7. Serve from the pan or loosen the edges and turn out onto a platter if the crust is well formed. Run a spatula around the edge to loosen, then place a platter over pan and flip the Fideo onto the platter. Tap the bottom of the pan to release the pasta. Flip pan back over and scrape any stuck pasta off to patch the crust of the Fideo. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 6 POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 7
FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com