History of Freshwater Fish Farming in the New Territories, Hong Kong

History of Freshwater Fish Farming in the New Territories, Hong Kong Prof. Sidney C. H. CHEUNG Anthropology Department of The Chinese University of Hong Kong 1

When Little Grey Mullet Meets Sea Mullet (This story is adapted from a real story of a fish) 2

Little Grey Mullet was grown up in Yuen Long, therefore its name was called Yuen Long Grey Mullet. On the other hand, it was also called Slight Cold Little, as it was born on the day of Slight Cold of the Traditional Chinese Calendar. Real life was not always easy, Slight Cold Little was born in the deep sea, but it was later caught by the Yuen Long fisherman while it was playing in Tai Shui Hang of Ma On Shan. It was then being kept in a pond in region around the New Territories. As it was nurtured and grown up together with Taiwan Grey Mullet, grass carp, big head carp and Tilapia (its ancester was orginally migrated from the River Nile of Africa), it had much gentler personality and got along well with other fish. 3

On the contrary, Grey Mullet was used to live in the ocean, where strong waves made it comparatively tough and dare to face difficulties. Moreover, it needs to find a warmer seashore every year allowing it to stay over the cold winter and lay eggs, it is more familiar with the changes of the ocean and seashore, and it can find the beneficial living conditions and space for it to live in the pattern of the natural environment. In other words, Grey Mullet is tougher than Yuen Long Grey Mullet living in the pond for life. 10

Last summer, Slight Cold Little gathered its buddies to leave the pond and swimmed into the sea while typhoon no. 10 signal was hoisted in HK. When they crashed over the Deep Bay, Slight Cold Little lost all its buddies. It was alone in the big ocean, and began to feel uncomfortable, nevertheless, Slight Cold Little was born in the sea, so after a short while, it had adapted the new environment. 11

Had been living in the sea for almost one month, the yellow oil on Slight Cold Little s body faded, it was because it used to have Groundnut skin in the pond, a film of yellowish fat was formed in its body. Now it was living in the sea, there was no more groundnut cake, and life in the sea was hard, no good food every day, and apparently, it lost weights. 12

Everything started when Little Grey Mullet met Sea Grey Mullet 17

Slight Cold Little told Grey Mullet, I used to adore life in the sea and thought it would be much freer. However, have been living in the sea for more than one month, I realize it is not easy to come back to the sea after living in the pond for more than a year, though I was born in the sea." 18

Grey Mullet said, I understand, but you should know that the ecology of the ocean has been changed already. Although we had evolved millions years ago to nowadays lifestyle and methods for survival, when facing the sea pollution caused by the industrial development of the human beings that destroyed the natural ecology, I feel helpless and desperate as ocean is my home. Whereas for those buddies living in the commercial environment like you, I feel a little bit positive." 19

Slight Cold Little said, I thought life cycle repeats every year as you are living in the ocean, so fertilization may take place over the seashore and life continues, then you may go back to the nature again, whereas my life in the freshwater commercial pond is totally controlled by the fishermen, both food and entertainment, space for us to move is just some acres of space, if you move to the deeper side, it s just about 10-feet deep. Sometimes I think of myself, this pond-nurtured grey mullet, never see how big the world is and many other things, I have even forgotten the smell of the sea water, I feel really disappointed, so we are the group who should feel helpless." 20

Grey Mullet told Slight Cold Little, Fish ponds in Region of Yuen Long are commercial fish ponds, not only supply the local market, but also supply food for the wetland-living birds. On the one hand, they retain the traditional freshwater fish farming methods, on the other hand, they use the natural resources of Deep Bay to improve people s living standard. On the other hand, through those traditional farming methods such as pond-migrating, pond-pushing and pond-drying, not only can conserve the wet land, but also allow the migratory birds to have enough food and shelters during winter in Deep Bay." 22

Grey Mullet said, In the past, fish ponds in the region of Yuen Long are the `Fung Shui'fish ponds of the villages. The village was constituted by the same clan, thus, the fish caught would be allocated among the members, not for commercialized sales or exchange. In 1920s, fish ponds in the New Territories became commercial, especially Shan Pui Tsuen, Wang Chau, Nam Sang Wai, Nam Bin Wai and Sai Bin Wai, which were the pioneers of commercial fish ponds in Yuen Long." 23

馮志明在元朗文物古蹟概覽 (1996): In 1920s, villagers in Sham Wan region built the bunds for resisting sea waves; these bunds surrounded the area and therefore were called Kei Wai"and they were also the predecessors of fish ponds. The villager built water gate in the deeper part of the Kei Wai, used the ebb and flow effect of sea water to catch fish and shrimps, and planted water grass in the shallow part, or brackish rice in between summer and autumn. 24

馮志明在元朗文物古蹟概覽 (1996): In 1930s,the villagers began to build fish ponds near Shan Pui Tsuen, and used rain water to wash out the salt accumulated in the soil of the pond, to make it suitable for farming all sorts of fish. Some large-scale fish ponds such as `Tai Lei'were developed afterwards, making Yuen Long become the centre of fish farming in the New Territories. 25

However, before 1940s, gross area of fish ponds were over 100 hectares, but gross area of sea water fish ponds were comparatively smaller; therefore, since 1940s, Deep Bay became a place for nurturing Kei Wai Shrimps,Grey Mullet, Snakehead and other freshwater fish. 26

Throughout these decades, Deep Bay was the main origin of the fresh fish for Hong Kong local consumption. Until late 1960s, more of these fish ponds being altered from rice farm were developed in Tai Sang Wai and Wo Sang Wai. In 1950s to 1970s, fish farming was essential in the society of Hong Kong,local consumption of fresh fish increased,and fresh water fish farming industry became an important industry in 1970s, to supply the local needs. 27

Until 1980s, fish farming was still developing; area of fish ponds increased from 186 hectares in 1954 to a maximum of 2130 in 1986. Until 1980s, among local fresh fish ponds, Yuen Long Grey Mullets accounted for 40~50%,which was the popular fish for serving dishes in banquet and celebrations. 29

Wo Sang Wai has been developed into a low density residence Palm Springs, meanwhile, some fish ponds and one village have been retained. Similar to Tin Shui Wai, Wo Sang Wai used to be a large-scale rice field, and being rebuilt to fish pond in 1960s, because planting rice was not economically rewarding that could not follow the continually rising living standard of the farmers, thus, the change did bring a better reward. 30

About Tai Sang Wai, part of it was developed into a low density residence - Fairview Park in 1970s. In 1970s, fish ponds was gradually sold to developers, and those developers purchased the fish ponds were not for continuing the development of fish farming industry, but to propose all kinds of development proposals for a better reward. 31

Historical Development of Hong Kong Fresh Fish Farming Industry Until 1940s Fish Fish Farmer(Family members /Fishermen) In 1950s to 1970s Society (fish seed exportation, demand of fish /food increase) Fish Fish Farmer ( Fishermen) From 1980s to current Wetland (WWF-HK) Society Fish Fish Farmer ( Fishermen / Environment Protection Workers) 33

深圳後海灣內深灣落馬州米埔保護區和生圍中立地區 1 天水圍大生圍南生圍橫洲元朗中立地區 2 34

Ming Pao 17/8/2005 Problems of China s agricultural products are getting more and more, soon after the incidence of Streptococcus suis, provinces such as Fu Jian, Jiang Xi and An Fei etc., exported eels products such as barbecued eels, which were inspected containing carcinogenic chemical - Malachite green, the State General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine issued immediate notice to recall for the first time, all the exported products of all regions, except those on transportation, or those barbecued eels products to be held up at the customs outside or inside the country, while live eels were not on the forbidden list. 40

Ming Pao 17/8/2005 Malachite green is a dye, which is also kind of germicide, to prolong the life of the fish during transport, but having the side effects of high toxicity and carcinogenic, which have been forbidden by many countries in fish farming. China has also officially forbidden its use in 2002. Hong Kong Food and Environmental Hygiene Department is now liaising with the Mainland to see if the problematic products have been imported to Hong Kong, and from today onwards, they will enhance the market inspection and the importation of live eels and eels products, but no recalling action will be taken at this stage. 41

Apple Daily 10/9/2005 Hong Kong N.T. Fish Culture Association introduces local fish specialty store program as self-saving strategy, and enhances the confidence of the locals to purchase local fresh fish. Fiftyfour participated fish stores and restaurants including Sham Cheng Yu s Roasted Goose Restaurant etc., they will only sell local fresh fish, not imported one, and posted a 1m x 1m plastic board in front of their stores with the words Local Fish Specialty Store printed on it. 42

Sing Pao 31/3/2006 The Agricultural, Fisheries and Conservation Department introduced Accredited Fish Farm Scheme last year, and received 71 applications so far. Forty-two fish farm applications have been approved. There are 10 fish farms introducing accredited fish to the market, from early December last year till now, sales of accredited fish is 25,000kg, around 200kg were sold per day, some in supermarkets, markets and fresh fish specialty stores. Some groups found local fish farming industry positive, and invested 10 millions on building large-scale fish raft in Lamma Island, and they are planning for an investment over hundred millions on introducing musical fish farming and deep sea floatsink method from Japan, to leverage the quality of fish 46 for sales.

12/2005,Cheung Kong Group has proposed to develop Fung Lok Yuen locating on West-South of Mai Po Wetland, to allocate 5% land for residential development. This residence is going to be 25-floor high, and the remaining 95% land will be used for wetland reserve. However, whether the wetland conservation will be used as the continual development project or not? about the future of Deep Bay, we still need to think if those fish farmer getting old and retire one day, how the situation is going to be. Who will take over the traditional fish ponds farming business, and allow the birds to fly over for food and shelter? Traditional fresh fish ponds may still be operated. We cannot see the longterm development plan, or know how the conservation of the wetland is going to be worked in the future. 47