Fruity pastry Kris Goegebeur Photography: Joris Devos
Contents Foreword 7 Author 7 Foodpairing 9 1 Apples 10 Some varieties 17 Recipes with apples 20 Foodpairing with apple 48 2 Pears 50 Some varieties 56 Recipes with pears 58 Foodpairing with pear 74 3 Plums 80 Some varieties 87 Recipes with plums 88 Foodpairing with plum 100 4 Cherries 104 Some varieties 111 Recipes with cherries 112 Foodpairing with cherry 126 5 Peaches / apricots / nectarines 130 Some varieties 135 Recipes with peaches / apricots / nectarines 136 6 Red fruit 152 Some varieties 158 Recipes with red fruit 160 Foodpairing with raspberry 180 7 Berries 186 Recipes with berries 192 Foodpairing with red currant 200 8 Rhubarb 204 Recipes with rhubarb 208 Foodpairing with rhubarb 212 Basic recipes 216 My fruit suppliers 221 4 Recipe index 222 5
www..com Foodpairing with apple 47
Nashi Nashi pear ice-lollies (For 20 lollies) Pear sorbet: 400 g mixed Nashi pears 2 vanilla sticks, marrow only 50 g honey 50 g dextrose 500 g coconut fat 100 g granulated sugar gold spray (available in specialised bakery shops or via the internet) Pear sorbet: Place all the ingredients in a pan and warm to 45 C. Allow to cool. Use the resulting mixture to make a sorbet in an ice-cream machine. Fill the plastic tubes with the sorbet. Place the tubes in the freezer to harden. Cut the tubes in two and insert a plastic lolly stick. Melt the coconut fat in a pan at 45 C. Remove the plastic tubing and dip the lollies in the melted coconut fat. Shake the lollies backwards and forwards, so that the fat sets like candle wax. Coat the lollies in granulated sugar and spray with the gold spray. Extras: ice-cream machine / 10 plastic tubes, 16 cm long and 1.5 cm wide / 20 lolly sticks 68 69
Mirabelle de Nancy Plum bread (For 1 bread) Sour mirabelle solution: 1 kg mirabelles 150 g honey 2 l water Bread: 50 cl sour mirabelle solution 50 g yeast 800 g full white flour (flour for making bread rolls, with a high protein content) 5 cl olive oil 8 g garlic powder 50 g herb cheese with garlic 17 g salt Finishing: 200 g herb cheese 30 mirabelle halves, de-stoned 7 cl olive oil 20 g chives (10 g stalks and 10 g finely diced) Sour mirabelle solution: Add the mirabelles and the honey to the water and bring to the boil. Allow to cool. Pour into a large jar or bucket that can be sealed with a lid. After three or four days, air bubbles will begin to rise in the fluid. This shows that the peel is fermenting. When this happens, pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Bread: Slowly knead the sour mirabelle solution, yeast and flour for 5 minutes in a kitchen robot. Add the olive oil, garlic powder, herb cheese and salt. Knead slowly for a further 2 minutes and then quickly for 4 minutes, so that the dough becomes smooth and shiny. Allow the dough to rest for 1 hour. Fold the dough but without expelling all the air in the mixture. This is important: all the gases must remain in the dough, if you want light and tasty bread. After folding, allow the dough to rest for another 30 minutes and then roll it out to a thickness of 2 cm. Pre-heat the oven to 240 C. Crumble the herb cheese over the dough, spread the mirabelles evenly over the surface, sprinkle with olive oil and lay the chive stalks on top. Bake in the warm oven for 20 minutes. Remove and decorate with the diced chives. Allow to rest for 30 minutes before use. Suggestion The sour mirabelle solution can be divided into smaller quantities and stored in the freezer. Extra: fine sieve 88 89
Lapins Lapins cherries with cherry-blossom milk, matcha cake and a ganache of Cointreau and gin (For 4 persons) Cherry-blossom milk: 40 g cherry blossoms 25 cl goat s milk Madeleine cake with matcha: 1/2 basic recipe for madeleine cakes 30 g matcha powder Ganache of Cointreau and gin: 10 cl juice of Lapins cherries 35 g honey 5 cl cream 350 g plain chocolate, minimum 60% cacao 20 g butter 1.5 cl Cointreau 1 cl gin Cherry-blossom milk: Bring the milk to the boil and pour over the cherry blossoms. Allow to cool in a jar. Put a lid on the jar and allow the blossoms to soak in the milk for 24 hours. Pass through a sieve and keep the milk in a measuring jug. Madeleine cake with matcha: Pre-heat the oven to 180 C. Stir the matcha powder into the basic madeleine mixture. Pour into a baking dish and bake for 15 minutes in the warm oven. Allow to cool, remove from the dish and cut into cubes measuring 2 cm by 2cm. Ganache: Bring the cherry juice, honey and cream to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the juice over the finely-diced chocolate. Stir well with a spatula. Fold in the butter with the spatula, then the Cointreau and the gin. Mix until fine and smooth. Allow to stiffen, then spoon into a piping bag with a plain 8 mm nozzle. Finishing: Pipes 3 blobs of the cherry ganache in the middle of deep plates. Place the matcha cake carefully on the ganache, and add a further blob of ganache on top of the cake. Decorate with a cherry. Pour the cherry-blossom milk into the plate, until the bottom of the cake is resting in the milk. Sprinkle a little matcha powder on the surface of the milk. Finishing: 8 g matcha powder 12 Lapins cherries Extras: square baking dish measuring 15 cm by 15 cm and 2 cm deep / piping bag with an smooth 8 mm nozzle 128 129
Spring Blush apricot Apricot gourmet cake (For 12 persons) Walnut and hazelnut biscuit: 950 g egg white 150 g sugar 375 g diced hazelnuts 375 g diced walnuts 750 g sugar 150 g flour Cognac Chestnut mousse: 30 cl milk 5 egg yolks 100 g sugar 6 slices of soaked gelatine 500 g chestnut cream 50 cl half-whipped cream Apricot bavarois: 100 g icing sugar 6 slices of soaked gelatine 300 g mixed apricots 1 l half-whipped cream Nut biscuit: Pre-heat the oven to 180 C. Beat together the egg white and the 150 g of sugar. Stir in the diced nuts, the 750 g of sugar and the flour. Cover the baking tray with baking paper and pour the mixture onto the tray. Smooth with a pallet knife until you have an even thickness of 1 cm. Bake for 25 minutes in the warm oven. Allow the biscuit to cool. Use a baking ring to cut out 12 roundels with a diameter of 4 cm. Place the roundels in the bottom of the baking moulds and sprinkle them liberally with the Cognac. Chestnut mousse: Lightly beat the egg yolks and the sugar. Bring the milk to the boil and add the egg yolk mixture. Heat to 86 C. Do not allow to boil, otherwise the yolks will begin to congeal. Pour the contents of the pan through a conical strainer. Add the gelatine and the chestnut cream and stir until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Allow to cool. Beat lightly and mix in the half-whipped cream. Pour this mixture into the cake moulds. Apricot bavarois: Mix the apricots, icing sugar and gelatine into a homogenous mixture. Next, fold in the cream. Pour the mixture into the moulds until they are full. Smooth the top surface and place in the freezer for 24 hours, until the individual cakes are firm enough to be removed from their moulds. Finishing: Remove the cakes from the moulds. Place them on a grille and cover them completely with the apricot glaze. Smooth off the glaze with a pallet knife. Use a piping bag to add little swirls of apricot jam to each cake. Decorate with a sprinkling of chocolate flakes. 146 Finishing: apricot glazing (see basic recipe; add orange colorant) chocolate flakes apricot jam (see jam tart recipe) Extras: 1 baking tray, measuring 20 cm by 30 cm / baking paper / baking ring with a diameter of 4 cm / baking moulds / conical strainer / pallet knife / piping bag 147
Red woodland strawberry Mascarpone, yuzu cream and a macaroon tuile (For 6 persons) Mousse of red woodland strawberries: 200 g mascarpone 40 g icing sugar 2 slice of gelatine, soaked and melted 150 g woodland strawberry pulp Yuzu cream: fruit cream (see basic recipe) with 48 cl of yuzu juice Macaroon tuile: 400 g egg white 200 g sugar 4 g red colorant 500 g almond powder 700 g icing sugar coloured (red) granulated sugar Strawberry mousse: Mix the mascarpone with the icing sugar. Mix the gelatine with the strawberry pulp. Mix the two mixtures together. Fill a number of plastic tubes with the resulting mousse and allow to harden in the freezer. Yuzu cream: Make a standard fruit cream, using yuzu juice instead of fruit pulp. If you have no yuzu juice, use a mixture of 70 % lemon juice and 30 % tangerine juice. This also applies for the zest. Macaroon tuile: Beat together the egg white and the sugar, until they become firm. Add the red colorant and beat for a further minute. Fold in the sifted almond powder and icing sugar with a spatula. Continue working with the spatula until the mixture begins to fall in on itself and develops a nice sheen. Spread the mixture evenly in the mould. Sprinkle with the coloured sugar and allow to dry for 1 hour. Add the other ingredients to the top of the macaroon, as shown in the photograph. Use two tablespoons to make quenelles of the yuzu cream. Cut the plastic tubes with the strawberry mousse into even pieces, warm them with your hands and gently press out the ice-cold mousse. Suggestion You can make your own mould from 2 mm-thick plastic or cooking cardboard. Extras: oblong mould measuring 3 cm by 9 cm / plastic tubes 160 161
Rhubarb Dessert plate with rhubarb (For 10 plates) madeleine cake mix (see basic recipe) Rhubarb filling: 300 g rhubarb, cut in pieces 300 g strawberry coulis 100 g sugar Vanilla quinoa: 30 cl cream 1 vanilla stick, marrow only 150 g quinoa 50 g sugar Madeleine cake: Pre-heat the oven to 180 C. Divide the cake mix evenly between the moulds. Bake for 20 minutes in the warm oven. Rhubarb filling: Cook the rhubarb in the strawberry coulis and sugar until it is tender. Allow to cool. Vanilla quinoa: Mix the ingredients together and bring them to the boil, until they bind together well. Fried rhubarb: Cut the stalks of rhubarb lengthwise and fry them in the pan with some butter. When tender, sprinkle them with icing sugar. Remove from the pan and allow to drain on some kitchen paper. Finishing: Divide the rhubarb filling evenly between the moulds with the madeleine cake. Spoon in some vanilla quinoa and then top off the moulds with the fried rhubarb and some puff pastry. Decorate with the mint flowers. Fried rhubarb: 600 g rhubarb 100 g butter 80 g icing sugar 200 g pre-baked puff pastry 20 mint flowers Extra: moulds with a diameter of 8 cm 210 211