IT S TIME TO BRING MERLOT BACK

IT S TIME TO BRING MERLOT BACK

WHAT IS MERLOT? Merlot is a wine grape with large, fleshy berries with a dark bluish color. The name is believed to be a diminutive of the French merle, or blackbird. Merlot tends to have soft, silky tannins and a fruit-forward flavor profile. For these reasons, it is a popular blending grape, though it has achieved significant popularity as a varietal wine. It is the third-most planted varietal wine grape globally, at 640,000 acres, just slightly less than Cabernet Sauvignon s 650,000 acres. New World producers favor late harvesting for richer, dark fruit profiles, while the French prefer to harvest earlier for more acidity and red fruit notes.

MERLOT IN BORDEAUX Merlot is one of the two primary varietals in classic Bordeaux blends along with Cabernet Sauvignon. The grape s soft tannins complement Cabernet s big structure, lending balance. Bordeaux s Left Bank is more favorable for growing Cabernet Sauvignon; the Right Bank is better for Merlot. Consequently, appellations on the Right Bank, like St. Emilion and Pomerol, tend to have higher concentrations of Merlot in their blends, usually more than 50%. Merlot is believed to have originated on the Left Bank of the Garonne.

CHATEAU LARROQUE 2010 BORDEAUX ROUGE 48% Merlot 46% Cabernet Sauvignon 6% Cabernet Franc 13.5% ABV Dark garnet hue. Red fruits, almond and hazelnut, with a faint vanilla aroma on the nose. The silky, velvety attack reveals a pleasant, concentrated with with good structure. Flavors of dried fruits, and a combination of licorice and toasted notes.

CHATEAU DE SALES 2012 POMEROL 70% Merlot 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Cabernet Franc 14.5% ABV Chateau de Sales is both the largest and oldest estate in the Bordeaux appellation of Pomerol. They do not believe in extended oak and prefer instead to age their wines in concrete tanks for 12-18 months and only an additional six months in French oak barrels, with just 5% being new. They do this to "preserve the qualities of freshness, fruitiness and terroir expression" and also to "avoid any "stave wood" flavors and ensure the wines retain their individual personalities. The 2012 vintage delivers vibrant, forward (in the Bordeaux sense, not the California sense) fruit with flavors of dried plums, leather and some nice earthy notes.

MERLOT IN THE 90S In the 1990s, red wine consumption in America was on the rise, fueled by scientific findings that moderate consumption could have health benefits, possibly from the chemical compound resveratrol. Merlot benefitted most from this trend. Varietal Merlots were accessible, and consumers enjoyed their fruity flavors and soft mouthfeel. 500,000 375,000 250,000 125,000 Merlot This chart illustrates Merlot tons crushed in California from 1990-2005. 0 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004

THE SIDEWAYS EFFECT In 2004, the movie Sideways had this iconic scene where Paul Giamatti s character Miles rails against Merlot. In fact, by that year, Merlot production in California was oversaturated, and the market was full of inferior, watery Merlots. Miles preferred Pinot Noir, which is notoriously difficult to grow, and produces lighter, more refined wines. It could be argued that this scene isn t about Merlot at all, but about Miles own inferiority complex. The damage was done. The Sideways Effect resulted in a 1.4% year-over-year drop in California Merlot sales.

MERLOT AFTER SIDEWAYS However, it turns out that the impact of Sideways on the varietal was not nearly as great as what it did for Pinot Noir. 500,000 Merlot Pinot Noir Merlot sales sagged and prices dropped, but only by a relatively small amount. Pinot Noir became the darling wine of the 2000s and 2010s. 375,000 250,000 While many winemakers backed away from Merlot, many stayed true to their roots and continued to produce. Napa remained a strong center for the production of high-quality Merlot. 125,000 0 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014

TRUCHARD 2011 MERLOT CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY 75% Merlot 25% Cabernet Sauvignon 14.2% ABV Merlot is harvested from five separate hillside locations. The wines from these hillsides each have their own identity. Cabernet Franc, grown in adjacent areas of the vineyard is added in to provide additional softness, structure, and complexity. Floral aromas of wild blueberry, cranberry, and red currant; with notes of cedar, spice, and subtle mint. The mouth is smooth - layered with bright flavors of pomegranate, plum jam, pie cherries, and sweet vanilla. Ripe tannins fill the palate and provide an elegant finish of dried red fruits.

DUCKHORN 2012 NAPA VALLEY 88% Merlot 7% Cabernet Sauvignon 2% Petit Verdot 2% Cabernet Franc 1% Malbec 14.5% ABV The 2012 growing season offered near-perfect growing conditions. Harvest was 2-3 weeks later than average, and the grapes arrived at the winery in pristine condition. This yielded a wine that combines exceptional structure and depth with velvety tannins and alluring fruit. From its aromas of Santa Rosa plum, crème de cassis, violet and Herbes de Provence to its enticing flavors of olallieberry, sticky toffee and vanilla bean, this is a complex and compelling expression of Napa Valley Merlot.

MERLOT IN WASHINGTON STATE Washington State winemakers benefitted greatly from the Merlot trend. The wine region has a unique combination of factors including huge diurnal temperature swings, relentless wind that toughens grape skins and amplifies tannins, and basalt-rich soils that the varietal thrives in. The desert climate allows them to control the water, creating more intensely flavored berries. This allows the state s winemakers to produce high-quality, low-cost wines that are approachable. Merlot 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012

CHARLES SMITH THE VELVET DEVIL 2014 94% Merlot 3% Cabernet Sauvignon 2% Malbec 1% Cabernet Franc 13.5% ABV Full with density and bursting with flavor. Dark fruit, cherry, blackberry. Brimming with cedar, pipe tobacco and earth. Wine Enthusiast - "The aromas of herbs, pencil lead and blue and red fruit are forward, fresh and appealing. The flavors deliver on their promise, showing depth and balance uncommon for a wine this price. Best Buy" Wine Spectator - "Fresh, vivid and appealing, with floral overtones around a polished core of currant and cranberry flavors. Top Value Pick"

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE 2013 COLUMBIA VALLEY 85% Merlot 11% Syrah 4% other red varieties 13.5% ABV The long, warm 2013 growing season resulted in beautifully ripe and balanced wines. The wine offers aromas of black cherry, leather and spice with layers of rich dark red fruit flavors and a long, smooth, sweet finish. A touch of Syrah adds a jammy fruit character. I think of this wine as a great any time red.