Mushrooms There is something primordial and atavistic about mushrooms. They represent a food that still connects us to the wild, and the fact that many of our most prized edible fungi resist being cultivated only deepens that mystique. Mushrooms also defy tidy classification; at least 40,000 species are known, out of which several thousand are widely eaten by humans. Very few mushroom species can actually kill you, but lots of them will give you at the very least a big stomachache or worse. Foraging for wild mushrooms is great fun and an activity well worth pursuing, but always be certain to properly identify any you put in your basket; a number of dangerous look-alikes exist. Much folklore also abounds about how to tell if a mushroom is poisonous. Nearly all of these tales are simply not true, and ignoring them can save your life. Mushrooms are a delight gastronomically with their delicate flavors and a meaty, supple texture when cooked. Their savor partially comes from the fact that they are one of nature s richest natural sources of glutamate, an amino acid that is a component of the seasoning monosodium glutamate or MSG (seaweed and Parmesan cheese also contain significant amounts of glutamate). This chemical accounts for their meaty, savory taste property called umami, making mushrooms delicious on their own or when combined with other foods. (But note that glutamate itself is not harmful for people with MSG sensitivities.) Mushrooms are extremely versatile and tasty combined with meats, poultry, pasta, vegetables, and eggs. Many wild mushrooms, like morels, are seasonal and the window of time to enjoy them is extremely brief; take advantage of it when you see them in your box or at the market. Thousands of edible mushroom species exist, but here is a sampling of the most popular fungi available from CSA farms and farmers markets: Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) These beautiful mushrooms, with their distinctive fluted trumpet-like shape, are among the most delicious ones too, with peppery, spicy, or fruity flavor notes. Chanterelles do not take to cultivation, so specimens you see have been foraged, typically from coniferous forests. Chanterelles come in several species, but the golden chanterelle is the most common. Also not to be missed is the black trumpet (Craterellus falla), which is actually a different genus but included in the larger chanterelle family. If you see black trumpets at your local market, do not pass them up in spite of their unappetizing-looking dark, shriveled forms, they are among the most flavorful of all mushrooms. Cremini and Portobello (Agaricus bisporus) You may be familiar with the small white button mushrooms that are cremini, as well as the huge slab-like caps of portobellos, but not realize that they are one and the same fungi just at different stages of development. The meaty portobellos are a treat brushed with nut or garlic-infused oil and grilled, and they are often used as a meat substitute in sandwiches. The CSA Farm Cookbook Spring Mushrooms 61
Enokitake or Enoki (Flammulina velutipes) Who doesn t smile when they see these perky, tiny, pale, long-stemmed mushrooms? They grow in very dense clumps that are sold by the piece. Their flavor is distinctive and quite unmushroomy, with hints of yeast, fruit, and acid, and their texture is crisp and surprising. These little guys deserve to be savored simply raw in salads or appetizers, or cooked very briefly and added to soups and egg dishes. Enokis are usually farmed. Lion s Mane (Hericium erinaceus) This is a bizarre-looking fungus that looks something like a cross between a white mop and a massive grouping of impeccably neat bean sprouts hanging downward. They are often farmed, but they bruise easily and do not ship well. Their flavor is delicate and reminiscent of lobster, with a crab- or seafood-like consistency to match when cooked. Morel (Morchella species) With their wizened, deeply grooved conical caps that look like something out of a Grimm s fairy tale, morels are among the most distinctive of all fungi. As one of the very first mushrooms of spring, their appearance is heralded and as much anticipated for the sport of finding them as for eating them. Morels can be farmed, but most specimens are gathered in the woods. They have a nutty, somewhat smoky flavor, and a chewy, hearty texture that lusciously soaks up broth and sauce. They often come with quite a bit of sandy grit hiding inside their grooves, so wash them very thoroughly before cooking. Porcini (Boletus edulis) Sometimes called cèpes in French and boletes in America and elsewhere, porcinis are enjoyed the world over for their creamy texture, unique perfume, crunchy stems, and high nutritional value. Although their appearance can vary widely, they tend to have very bulbous bases and a spongy consistency; the caps of these mushrooms actually consist of tiny tubes in lieu of gills. Porcini are extremely difficult to cultivate and therefore are typically foraged. They are also one of the very few wild mushrooms that are delicious raw as well as pickled. Oyster (Pleurotus species) Oyster mushrooms cover a rather large family of fungi with many variations in color and form. However, they all grow quite densely in tightly packed clumps, with slightly flattened caps that somewhat resemble their namesake mollusk. Oysters are easily farmed, growing fast and prolifically, so they are popular for cultivation. They tend to be on the bland side but are very tender when cooked, so they make a great foil for stronger-flavored seasonings and sauces. Shiitake (Lentinula edodes) The shiitake is native to East Asia, where it is revered for its culinary and medicinal qualities. It is also immensely popular in America and a regular ingredient on the foodie circuit, prized for its meaty texture and earthy flavor. Shiitakes are extensively farmed, and their quality can vary wildly depending on the conditions under which they are grown. 62 Spring Mushrooms Bounty from the Box
History It s probably safe to say that people have been consuming mushrooms as long as humans have been around, but there s no telling how many poor souls died from figuring out which ones were poisonous. Nearly every major world cuisine has prized its own local varieties of fungi, from the wood-ear mushroom soups of China to the pickled mushrooms of Eastern Europe. In ancient Egypt, mushrooms were valued so highly that the pharaohs proclaimed that they were a food for royalty only, thus assuring their own supply. France became perhaps the first year-round cultivator of mushrooms in the late 1700s, where the fungi were grown in special caves near Paris that were set aside for this purpose. Since then, mushroom culture and farming have become huge industries in the Netherlands, Poland, the United States, and China, the last of which produces nearly 70 percent of the world s crop. Still, many gastronomically prized species resist cultivation (even varieties widely farmed today require exacting conditions to thrive), so the mushroom remains a food source that does not bend entirely to the will of humans. What s for Dinner, Zeus? Ancient Romans believed that mushrooms gave them strength in battle, dubbing them the food of the gods. Other cultures thought that mushrooms had powers to give them superhuman strength, help them find lost objects, and lead their souls to the gods. Nutrition Specific mushrooms vary widely in their nutritional content, depending on their species, but overall mushrooms are excellent sources of copper, selenium, B vitamins, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, and manganese. A 1-cup serving contains about 21 calories. They also contain significant amounts of dietary fiber. Some species (especially shiitakes, which have been studied extensively for their medicinal properties) also contain cholesterol-reducing compounds like lentinacin and numerous antioxidants. Season Commercially grown mushrooms are widely available year-round. But many species are quite seasonal and are at their best in the fall and winter. In particular, morels tend to be an early spring mushroom. Selection Mushrooms of all kinds should be firm, plump, and fresh looking. Avoid specimens that are desiccated, discolored, soft, slimy, or damp. With button-type mushrooms, look for unopened veils underneath the caps; open veils with exposed gills (the little slats extending outward) may mean a mushroom is past its prime, but it also might indicate a richer flavor. Storage Always store fresh mushrooms dry in the refrigerator, and do not wash them until you are ready to use them. Mushrooms get slimy quickly if stored in plastic, so keep them in a paper bag, which absorbs moisture. Mushrooms prefer lots of ventilation, so refrain from packing them tightly together. They are also quite perishable; use within 3 to 5 days. Trimming and Cleaning Mushrooms frequently harbor dirt and insects (especially morels, with their deeply grooved caps). The easiest way to wash mushrooms of all types is to immerse them in a sinkful of water and swish them gently to Nature alone is antique and the oldest art a mushroom. Thomas Carlyle, Scottish philosopher The CSA Farm Cookbook Spring Mushrooms 63
Mushroom CSAs Mi Ae Lipe and Martha Wagner Can t get enough porcinis, chanterelles, morels? Craving creminis, oysters, shiitakes, and enokis? You re not alone sales of specialty mushrooms account for about 6 percent of total mushroom sales in the United States, which are at an all-time high. According to the National Agricultural Statistics Service, total mushroom sales topped $1.1 billion between July 2013 and June 2014. And if you re lucky, there may just be a mushroom CSA near you. The cool, moist, woodsy, Pacific Northwest climate makes mushrooms happy. Provisions Mushroom Farm in Olympia, Washington, cultivates and locally forages a variety of gourmet and medicinal wild mushrooms in season. It produces all of its mushroom mycelium in-house from laboratory to grow room, using a combination of organic and sustainable farming practices to ensure top quality and cleanliness. Provision works with Helsing Junction Farm to provide its mushroom CSA shares at numerous pickup locations throughout the Puget Sound region. Provisions also sells a variety of grow-yourown kits through its website, www. promushrooms.com. On the other side of the country, Mycoterra Farm founder Julia Coffey decided that a mushroom farm would be an excellent complement to the Pioneer Valley s robust local agricultural economy in Westhampton, Massachusetts. Mycoterra s mushrooms are available as half or full shares an opportunity to enjoy gourmet mushrooms such as shiitake, lion s mane, enokitake, nameko, and a flavorful variety of oyster species, with pickup available at five market locations. This is a CSA based on credits, starting at $100.00. The credit can be used at the shareholder s select- remove debris. Or if they are not particularly dirty, you can wipe them clean with a damp cloth or a soft brush; special mushroom brushes are available in specialty stores for this purpose, but a toothbrush with soft bristles works just as well. Steaming and Boiling Steaming is a better way to cook mushrooms than boiling, which tends to make them waterlogged. Steam whole button mushrooms or quartered pieces for 6 to 7 minutes, or until they become tender. To boil mushrooms, the key is to crowd them in a pan and use as little liquid as possible. Layer them in a sauté pan 2 to 3 deep, and add enough water to barely cover them. For 8 ounces of mushrooms, add 1 tablespoon of butter or oil and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, and turn down the heat once they come to a rolling boil. But don t simmer they need to boil. Don t be alarmed at the amount of liquid in the pan the mushrooms are simply releasing their own water. Keep them at a boil until you hear them start to sizzle a sign that all of the liquid has evaporated. Boiling times vary widely, depending on the type of mushroom used. Grilling and Broiling Larger-capped mushrooms like portobellos and shiitakes are luscious grilled. Lightly brush the caps and stems with a little oil or dressing; season with salt, pepper, and herbs; and grill or broil about 6 inches from the heat source for 4 to 6 minutes on each side. Brush with oil once or twice to keep them from drying out. Stir-Frying and Sautéing Mushrooms are extremely versatile in stir-fries. Quarter or slice the mushrooms into bite-size pieces. Stir-fry the pieces in 1 tablespoon of butter or hot oil in a skillet or wok over high heat. A lot of liquid will appear in the pan as the mushrooms release their moisture. Keep cooking until barely any water remains in the pan, about 5 to 7 minutes. Once the mushrooms are tender and cooked through, it is best to set them aside in a bowl as you cook the other ingredients; this prevents them from absorbing any more oil otherwise you ll end up with greasy mushrooms. Baking and Roasting Most of us don t think of roasting mushrooms, but this cooking method concentrates their earthy flavors. They can be heavenly with a highly flavored fat like goose or duck. Brush the mushrooms with oil or fat and place them in a shallow baking pan. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake in a 450 F oven for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are browned. Microwaving Place 8 ounces of thickly sliced mushrooms in a shallow, microwave-safe baking dish or serving bowl. Because mushrooms have a naturally high water content, no extra cooking liquid or fat is needed. Cover and microwave on high power for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring once. 64 Spring Mushrooms Bounty from the Box
, 8 ounces = 2 to 3 minutes Blanching and Freezing Most kinds of mushrooms can be successfully frozen from the raw state, as long as they are not high in moisture (in which case it is better to cook them before freezing). Regardless of whether you use cooked or raw mushrooms, it is best to freeze them individually rather than as a big clump. That way you can pour out just what you need. For raw mushrooms: Chop or slice the mushrooms into pieces no thicker than ½ inch. Spread them in a single layer on a cookie sheet or a large plate, making sure the pieces do not overlap. Freeze for 2 hours, then transfer the frozen pieces into zipper-lock freezer or vacuum food sealer-type bags, or freezer containers. Squeeze out any excess air (unless you are using the vacuum sealing method). For cooked mushrooms: Slice them up smaller than you would for raw ones. Heat a little butter or oil in a skillet over medium or low heat; add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently as the mushrooms release their liquid and reabsorb it. Once the mushrooms are cooked through, let them cool to room temperature, then transfer them to either small freezer containers (a 1-cup size works well for most recipes) or zipper-lock storage bags. Frozen mushrooms will keep for up to 1 year at 0 F. Equivalents, Measures, and Servings, 3 ounces = 1 cup, 1 pound fresh button mushrooms = 20 to 24 medium mushrooms, 1 pound fresh button mushrooms = 2 cups sliced and cooked, 8 ounces sliced fresh mushrooms = 4 ounces drained, canned, sliced, 8 ounces sliced fresh mushrooms = 1½ ounces dried mushrooms plus ¾ cup boiling water, 4-ounce can sliced button mushrooms = ¾ cup, 1½ ounces dried mushrooms = 8 ounces sliced fresh, 1 tablespoon powdered mushrooms = 3 tablespoons whole dried mushrooms, 1 tablespoon powdered mushrooms = 4 ounces fresh mushrooms Complementary Herbs, Seasonings, and Foods Arugula, asparagus, bacon, balsamic vinegar, beef, Belgian endive, butter, carrots, cashews, celery, chicken, chiles, chives, cream, duck, eggs, fennel, garlic, ginger, green onions, hazelnuts, hazelnut oil, lamb, nutmeg, olive oil, onions, palm hearts, Parmesan cheese, parsley, pasta, peppers, pine nuts, potatoes, red wine, rice, rosemary, savory, shallots, sherry, soy sauce, spinach, tarragon, thyme, tomatoes, turkey, veal, walnuts, walnut oil, white wine, wild rice, winter squash, zucchini. Serving Suggestions, Braise or simmer morels in stock, cream, or broth, reducing to concentrate the flavors. Happily, they are also excellent with asparagus and peas, which are in season at the same time., Separate and sprinkle enoki mushrooms raw over salads, or treat them as you would sprouts., Mushrooms and eggs are natural mates, especially in omelets and frittatas. ed winter market to purchase anything that Mycoterra Farm sells, or to preorder in bulk. The Portland, Maine based North Spore Mushroom Company sells their fungi both through a CSA and wholesale, and it also offers teas and tinctures made from foraged wild, medicinal mushrooms. From January to March, participants who pay for a full share ($250) get a pound of cultivated mushrooms every week and a mushroom cookbook. Half shares get you a half pound for $150 and a cookbook. North Spore also sells to about 15 restaurants. Nantucket Mushrooms LLC of South Chatham, Massachusetts, offers 10-week CSA shares starting at a quarter pound per week. A weekly assortment may include golden oyster, pink oyster, Phoenix oyster, blue oyster, shiitake, and lion s mane, all grown without pesticides and herbicides. It also offers educational workshops throughout the year on cultivation, medicinal mushrooms, mushroom identification, and bioremediation. You can find its products online at www.efungi.com. Nantucket also sells directly to chefs, restaurants, and markets, and ships nationwide and overnight. Cherry Tree House Mushrooms grows delicious and fresh shiitake, oyster, and other log-cultivated mushrooms in the Twin Cities region in Minnesota. It partners with several area CSA farms to provide add-on mushroom shares. If you want to grow mushrooms yourself, the Oregon nonprofit Fungi for the People provides extensive education and resources for a variety of mushroom-growing projects, as well as medicinal mushroom supplies. It offers workshops in Oregon and a diversity of edible and medicinal mushroom spawn, released in the right season for using it, delivered anywhere in the mainland United States or Canada. The CSA Farm Cookbook Spring Mushrooms 65