Robert Sinskey Vineyards BLANC, LOS CARNEROS, 2016
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BLANC BIAS by Rob Sinskey It s a Rouge World! We have a serious vinous issue - white wines have been getting the short shrift ever since red wine was declared (in a widely circulated article linking moderate red wine consumption to heart health) a potential antioxidant health elixir. Almost overnight, people who didn t drink wine at all started taking their dose of one glass of red wine a day - and a large part of the wine drinking population switched to red wine with a new prescription for guilt-free imbibing. Pleasure leads to good health. It reduces stress. The anxiety and stress generated by self sacrifice in the name of health can be self-defeating and could nullify any health benefits a red wine might offer. Let s say I chose to drink red wine with oysters regardless of how they taste together just because red is considered healthier than a crisp white wine. I d be sacrificing the pleasure that comes from the magical synergy of wine and food. Instead of a joyful beverage, it becomes medicine. I can honestly say - I love red wine! Some of my most memorable pairings have been with reds (say an aged Pinot Noir with a truffled roast chicken) yet many of my most comfortable and enjoyable wine and food experiences have been with white wine. My talented chef/wife, Maria, seduced me with her Tart Flambé paired with Pinot Gris. We celebrated one of my birthdays with Choucroute Garnie and a plethora of wines from Alsace that included Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Muscat. We have enjoyed many a dinner with Chenin Blanc, Muscadet, Chablis and the queen of all white wine, white Burgundy. We often celebrate New Year s Eve with the most decadent, noble Champagnes and white wines we can find paired with caviar, oysters and delicately smoked fish. I can t imagine a red wine improving any of these scenarios. Then there is the cheese course since it comes out late in the meal, most people serve it with the same red wine they were enjoying with the main course. I ll let you in on my little trick. I try to save some white wine from earlier in the dinner for the cheese course. Nine times out of ten, I prefer it to red. Something about the way the acidity cuts through and compliments the fattiness of the cheese as well as how the floral and mineral qualities of the wines contrast so well with fromage funk. I like to embrace change and diversity by enjoying wines of all types, but pigment-challenged wines need a cheerleader. Give Blanc wine a chance. Discover the pleasure it brings when enjoyed beyond the appetizer. It deserves respect and a place at the table. Blanc, Los Carneros 3
Winegrowing Notes I have a soft spot for Pinot Blanc. It is the underdog of the oenological world. Rarely is it given prime real estate, usually planted off to the side, that place where the soil isn t very good, in the swale - or anywhere there is plantable land that couldn t be better served by a more noble grape. Many times it is over-cropped to produce a reliable, if indistinct, quaffing wine. It does not get the respect it deserves. That is not the case at RSV. RSV gives Pinot Blanc prime real estate in three organically-farmed, Carneros vineyards: OSR Vineyard and the Three Amigos Vineyard in Napa as well as the Scintilla Sonoma Vineyard. These three vineyards are influenced by the cool Carneros macro-climate with nuances from the specific micro-climates of the individual vineyard sites. These multiple sites allow RSV to blend several wines from the Pinot Blanc grape. RSV makes: Pinot Blanc, Abraxas, and Libration cuvées - where Pinot Blanc plays a supporting role, and now our new Blanc that is a very special cuvée of 100% Pinot Blanc. The distinctiveness of each lot of Pinot Blanc was discovered during blending trials, offering the opportunity to create unique wines by playing with the blends. This wine spoke to us and we knew we needed to make a special wine. This might be the only time RSV produces a.750 of Pinot Blanc Tasting Notes - by Jeff Virnig & Phil Abram This wine captures summer in a bottle and can bring a sunny reminiscence to any season. Aromas of fresh white flowers, honeydew melon and green plantain carry into the first taste, where they are joined by green strawberry, tart golden apple and Meyer lemon. As the wine opens in the glass, secondary flavors of chamomile tea and white pepper/cardamom develop and lend themselves to a sleek, briny minerality and a fresh, long-lasting finish. Not just a seafood lover s companion, this wine will bring joy to many dishes from cockles to chicken to cheese and don t forget your veggies! Blanc, Los Carneros 4
PARTY ON Cheese and ham are my all-time favorite, ready-to-eat foods. You can take them to the highest of highs think subtle, aged farmstead sheep s milk cheese and thinly sliced Iberico ham or the lowest of lows think American cheese slice and everyday deli ham and still end up with a pretty tasty combo that s egalitarian and always ready for a party. So is Blanc! Blanc was made to party and lives in the land of food fun. Enjoy Blanc with a plethora of cheeses and sliced meats, seafood, chicken, grilled pork ribs and a variety of marinated and grilled vegetables. It always shines its brightest at the table. So bake up a batch of pinwheels, grab a bottle and party on. Until the Next Wine... Maria Blanc, Los Carneros 5
SMOKED HAM AND COMTE PINWHEELS I ve specified Comte cheese for this recipe. It is one of the most delicious melting cheeses on the planet. If you don t have it on hand, any melting cheese can be substituted. This recipe is also a good way to use up those little leftover bits in your cheese drawer. Just grate, mix and voila - your own shredded cheese combination! For ham, use a nice speck, smoked country or a thinly sliced smoked deli ham. For a little spice, try thinly sliced soppressata or coppa. Yield: 30 pinwheels 1 sheet puff pastry rolled into 8 x 15 rectangle, 1/16 thick, Store bought or Recipe Follows 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 6 ounces finely grated Comte cheese or cave-aged Gruyere 4 ounces thinly sliced smoked ham Freshly ground black pepper Egg wash 1 large egg beaten well with 2 teaspoons cool water 1. Lay the sheet of puff dough out on a lightly floured counter. Place the 15 edge of the puff dough parallel to the counter edge. 2. Spread the mustard evenly over the puff dough. Leave a ½ strip free of mustard on the edge farthest away from the edge of the counter. This strip will be brushed with egg wash and used to seal roll. 3. Leaving the ½ bare, sprinkle half the cheese evenly over the mustard, then lay the ham on top to cover the cheese. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the ham. 4. Grind some pepper evenly over all. 5. Brush the ½ strip lightly with egg wash. Start with the edge closest to you and roll the dough up as tightly as possible. Press down on the egg washed strip firmly to seal. 6. Place the log on a sheet pan and chill unwrapped for 30 minutes or up to an hour in the refrigerator. 7. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line a half sheet pan or cookie sheet with parchment paper. 8. Remove the log from the refrigerator and place on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to cut the log into 30 ½-inch-thick slices. 9. Place the slices cut side up so that you can see the pinwheel of ham and cheese. Place the pan in the preheated oven and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375 degrees F and continue baking until golden and bubbling, about 15 minutes more. Serve warm or at room temperature. QUICK PUFF DOUGH This dough is incredibly flaky, flavorful and tender. If you can perfect this recipe you will never have to seek out a store-bought puff dough again. It freezes extremely well which makes it a good basic dough to keep in your freezer at all times. 3½ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 1 pound (4 sticks) cold butter, cut into 1 cubes 16 tablespoons ice water 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, mix together the flour and salt. Add the butter and mix until the butter is coated with flour and broken down into pieces the size of a hazelnut. Add the vinegar and then enough water until all of the flour is moistened and starting to come together. 2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter or board and gather it into a ball. Knead it lightly so that the dough is uniform and then roll into a rectangle ½-inch thick. Fold the rectangle into thirds so that each end overlaps over the center panel. Wrap with plastic wrap and let the dough rest in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to chill the butter slightly. 3. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll into a rectangle ½-inch-thick. Fold into thirds again. Roll and fold one more time. Press the folded dough lightly on top with the rolling pin to lock the folds. Cut the dough in half, wrap each half tightly with plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight. The dough may be made 3 months in advance and frozen. Make sure that it is well-wrapped. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator before using. Blanc, Los Carneros 6
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FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com