COMMERCIAL WINEMAKING Processing and Controls
COMMERCIAL WINEMAKING Processing and Controls by Richard P. Vine Cellarmaster A. B. McKay Food and Enology Laboratory Mississippi State University avi AVI PUBLISHING COMPANY, INC. Westport, Connecticut
Copyright 1981 by THE AVI PUBLISHING COMPANY, INC. Westport, Connecticut Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1 st edition 1981 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means-graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including Jhotocopying, recording, taping, or information storage an retrieval systems-without the written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Vine, Richard P. Commercial wine making, processing and controls. Bibliography: p. Includes index. 1. Wine and wine making. TP548:V483 663;.22 I. Title. 81-10850 AACR2 ISBN 978-94-015-1151-3 ISBN 978-94-015-1149-0 (ebook) DOI 10.1007/978-94-015-1149-0
Preface The very first winemaster may have been a cave man who discovered the magic of fermentation by tasting the result of some crushed grapes having been left inadvertently for a few days. Wine will, literally, make itself. In simplest terms, yeast cells will collect on the outside of grape skins in the form of bloom and, when exposed to the natural sweetness inside the fruit, fermentation of the sugar into carbon dioxide gas and ethyl alcohol will commence. During the millenia that have transpired since the cave man, the state of the art has evolved into five generally accepted categories of classification. Table wines are usually dry (made with no appreciable amount of fermentable sugar remaining) or nearly so, and contain less than 14% alcohol by volume. They can be white, pink or red and are the result of uncomplicated processes of fermentation, clarification, stabilization, aging and bottling. The term table wine suggests the use for which these wines are intended-at the table with food. The overwhelming majority of the wine produced in the world is in this category. Table wines range from the obscure and ordinary to the most expensive classics known to man. Sparkling wines are made from table wines called cuvee, that have been partially refermented in such a manner as to capture the carbon dioxide gas that is generated. The release of this gas causes the finished wine to effervesce or sparkle. Champagne is the most famous of sparkling wines and is traditionally made from white cuvee wines. Gaining rapidly in popularity is the very aromatic spumante from Italy. Today pink Champagne is produced as well as the red sparkling burgundy. Dessert wines are normally sweet and are, as the name implies, usually consumed with dessert courses. Grape brandy (distilled wine) is added at some predetermined point during or after primary fermentation to a level totaling, usually, an alcohol content of from 18 to 20% by volume. This inhibits any further growth of yeast, leaving the desired portion of the natural sugars unfermented. Port types are primarily red, although some are "tawny" and others are white. Sherry ranges from a light straw gold to very dark amber. v
vi COMMERCIAL WINEMAKING Aperitif wines have been infused with different combinations of herbs, spices and essences, as well as other color and flavor components unnatural to the grape. Vermouth is the best known example and can be nearly colorless with a dry finish or dark amber with extraordinary sweetness. Aperitifs can be taken as appetizer wines or used as mixer ingredients in making cocktails. A new category of wine has evolved during the past decade or so called pop wines-a term apparently derived from the soda-pop association given to wines of this type. These are somewhat related to aperitif wines in that flavor constituents from other fruits are added. Pop wines contain alcohol at about the same levels as described for table wines. Sangria is one example of pop wine, although many more exotic types exist. Great wines are sometimes distinguished from ordinary ones because of grape and vineyard nobility. They can be a result of superb natural growth conditions during vintage years, but the trademark of a great wine is most often built upon consistently high quality production. One cannot do much about the weather, and even less about nobility. No matter, as there can be no question that it is what transpires in the winery that determines the ultimate fate of any crop grown in the most prestigious vineyard during the best of years. There is no paradox: poor wines can easily be made from fine grapes, but it is impossible to make fine wines from poor grapes. The task of a reputable winemaster begins to emerge clearly. There are hundreds of volumes already published that provide a wealth of information about wine. Some that come to mind are the works of Leon Adams, Maynard Amerine, Alexis Bespaloff, Ruth Ellen Church, Hugh Johnson, William Massee, Cyril Ray, Frank Schoonmaker, Andre Simon and Philip Wagner, to name only a few. These authors have made outstanding portrayals of classic and ordinary wine regions around the world, both historic and contemporary. A reader can gain a thorough knowledge of almost any aspect of enology, with abundant methodology, from the most intricate and technical chemistry to the more romantic aspects of wine cookery, service and tasting. There are even wine dictionaries and wine encyclopedias. Why then, yet another book in concern for the subject? During the past several decades a considerable interest has developed in America for the wines that are produced in small wineries in our country. This interest continues to intensify, especially for the truly good wines that are reasonably priced. There also seems to be a commensurate desire to learn more about just what functions take place in the small estate-type wine cellar and the controls that can be realistically exercised by the winemaster in the creation of superior products. - While wine can be a simple food to produce, it is a very vast topic. Perhaps much the same as with other art forms, it is the infinite variability off actors at the root ofthe subject that renders it so complex. There are thousands of different grape cultivars, a few hundred of which are grown commercially around the world. Combined with such factors as vineyard soils, climates, microclimates, cultivation techniques, harvesting methodology and overall
PREFACE vii operational philosophy, a great deal of variability surely exists. This diversity, along with more than 5000 years of enological development, generates a number of different wine possibilities that must be described exponentially. This text, however, is designed as a teaching aid which will provide a basic framework upon which the beginning winemaster may then apply an individual set of production variables. In larger wineries one can usually find chemists, enologists, recordkeepers, viticulturists and other well trained professionals who respond and supervise within their respective fields of expertise. The comprehension and responsibility of estate-type winery production dynamics may weigh heavily, often entirely, upon the winemaster. It is, therefore, imperative that money and time inputs be carefully maximized when designing a small winery quality control program. This book will also only be concerned with the most economical devices for generating and recording data, in a manner that fully supports the regulations and requirements of the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (ATF). There seems to be a significant void between the highly technical information that is presently available and the practical comprehension of this material so as to apply it readily in the small winery laboratory, particularly in newly established winery premises. It is hoped that this work may serve to clarify academic technicality and simplify ATF regulations. It is not necessary for the small winery vintner to have advanced degrees in the physical sciences, but a solid academic background is essential. The small winery winemaster should have completed significant studies of agronomy, botany, chemistry, biochemistry and horticulture in order to adequately interpret the basic profiles of analytical methodology provided and applied in this text. Agricultural economics and engineering, as well as accounting, business management and finance are also basic to small-scale winemaking. Finally, the winemaster should be familiar with ATF regulations. Wine, Part 240 of Title 27, Code of Federal Regulations, hereafter referred to as Part 240, CFR, includes some approved laboratory equipment and procedures. Also contained are the essentials of wine production documentation and reporting, as well as charts, tables and other important items, all of which is designed to assist and guide the vintner in the maintenance of a legal and sound bonded winery operation. Regulations under the Federal Alcohol Administration Act, Title 27, Code of Federal Regulations, referred to as Title 27, CFR, is concerned with standards of wine identity, labeling requirements and certification, advertising and promotion of wine, standards of fill and other related provisions. It is expected that, within this text, the reader can become familiar with the basic analytical functions that take place in a winery that is properly managed. Once confidence is established in the practical application of these principles, the winemaster may pursue a refinement of his or her specific quality control program. In similar fashion, this book has been outlined to introduce a broad association and involvement with ATF regu-
viii COMMERCIAL WINEMAKING lations. Acquaintance and communication with ATF personnel may result in the development of more meaningful data systems. While the purpose of this book is to bring forth an organized understanding of small winery quality control technology, it cannot be considered a total means to that end. The author wishes to thank the following people for their time and effort in the review, criticism and suggestions for all or parts ofthe text: Dr. W. Lanny Bateman, Mississippi State University; Dr. Robert Bates, University of Florida; Dr. Warren C. Couvillion, Mississippi State University; Dr. James F. Gallander, Ohio State University; Mr. Sherman P. Haight, Jr., Haight Vineyards; Dr. C. P. Hegwood, Jr., Mississippi State University; Dr. R. E. Kunkee, Dept. of Viticulture and Enology, University of California, Davis California; Dr. Andrew C. Rice, Taylor Wine Co., Hammondsport, NY; Dr. W. B. Robinson, New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, Geneva, N.Y. Mr. Bertram E. Silk, Canandaigua Wine Co., Canandaigua, NY; Ms. Dody and Mr. Archie M. Smith, Jr., Meredyth Vineyards; Ms. Suzelle and Dr. Archie M. Smith, III, Meredyth Vineyards; Dr. Don F. Splittstoesser, New York State Agricultural Experiment Station Geneva, NY; Dr. Boris J. Stojanovic, Mississippi State University; Ms. Kay and Dr. James Truluck, Truluck Vineyards. The efforts of Ms. Stella Phillips, who pleasantly endured all of the copy work necessary for compiling and preparing the manuscript is gratefully acknowledged. Without the encouragement, help, sacrifice and understanding from my wife, Gaye, this effort would probably have never been completed. RICHARD P. VINE Starkville, Mississippi January 8, 1981
Contents PREFACE 1 Wine and the History of Western Civilization 1 2 The Winery and the Laboratory 29 3 Grapes, Juice and Must Quality Control 95 4 Quality Control During Primary Fermentation 117 5 Quality Control During Aging, Clarification and Stabilization 155 6 Quality Control During Bottling and Warehousing 185 7 Dessert and Aperitif Wine Quality Control 213 8 Sparkling Wine Quality Control 243 9 Microbiological Analysis in the Small Winery Laboratory 263 10 ATF and Supplemental Recordkeeping 277 APPENDIX A: Analytical Methods and Procedures in the Small Winery Laboratory 311 APPENDIX B: Charts and Tables 378 APPENDIX C: Conversion Tables 413 GLOSSARY 451 BIBLIOGRAPHY 483 INDEX 487 ix
Courtesy of The Sherry Institute of Spain
Dedication To my family: wife Gaye, son Scott, and daughters Sabrina and Stacia who make my life loving, fun and worthwhile. xi