FOOD AND WINE: PERFECT PARTNERS

by Olly Smith FOOD AND WINE: PERFECT PARTNERS

W by Olly Smith Portuguese wines are simply fantastic with food, but with so many styles and flavours on offer it can be difficult to select the perfect match. In this simple food and wine pairing guide I have chosen five familiar dishes that show just how easy it can be to match Portuguese wines with different types of food. I have taken each food in turn, explaining the distinct flavours that make up the dish and how they work so well with the wines from my 50 Great collection. This guide should hopefully set you on your way to unearthing some fantastic food and Portuguese wine pairings and will help you to further discover the best way of putting wines together with food.

SEAFOOD PLATTER The salty fresh flavours of shellfish are as invigorating and immediate as the ocean itself. Portugal s wealth of gently aromatic bright white grapes are sensational for pairing alongside. From the zesty spritz of Vinho Verde to cunning blends from the Douro and intriguing fragrant beauties from Setúbal, the Portuguese coastline offers hoards of nautical bounty - and the vineyards inland are harbours for splendid local varieties, whose upbeat character is just a fresh as surfing in the Atlantic spray. FP, 2012 Varietals: Bical, Arinto Aaah, this vino is steel-bright. Sip it and see for yourself the splash of freshness, like catching a whiff of the seaside on a cool breeze. Long-lasting flavours resonate on the finish and I love the concept of wine without make-up. Sometimes we can do too much to smother what s there - fruit, glorious fruit. Vales de Ambrães - Avesso, 2012 Varietal: Avesso Embrace the ocean! There s a spank of sea spray about this wine alongside some more exotic fruit flavours, stacks of verve and a mineral sheen. Zesty and fresh, it s invigoration in a glass. Montes Ermos Reserva, 2011 Varietals: Côdega de Larinho, Rabigato, Viosinho Phwoar, there s a subtle savoury and moreish touch to this good value white. There s some classic style here with decent body and zing and a brighter finish. Makes me hungry for a nibble or two! Quinta dos Roques Encruzado, 2011 Varietal: Encruzado A bit of a classic with rich oak influence. Barrel fermented as well as being oakaged gives a savoury, creamy, nuttiness to the wine. On its own, it s quite hefty but paired with richer fish dishes this wine can show off the might of Encruzado.

SEAFOOD PLATTER Quinta de Saes Encruzado, 2011 Varietal: Encruzado Decent balance of zing to some more savoury notes with persistence and character. A deftly handled example of Encruzado favouring purity over richness. Casa da Senra, 2012 Varietal: Loureiro Behind its rather formal label, this showy white exudes upbeat character with appealing orange citrus flair. Catch a whiff of its exotic aroma, dive into its flourish of peachy aromatic flavours and surf its final surge of cleansing freshness. A gem. Beyra Quartz, 2011 Varietals: Síria, Fonte Cal Mineral pure, lean, fresh and delightfully crisp white wine with a modern and engaging label. It is all about upbeat purity with a subtle fragrance (think apples with an edge of lime) and the capacity to develop some richer notes. It s good value and is spot on for the UK s tables this summer. Quinta da Raza Arinto, 2012 Varietal: Arinto Lemon and lime blossom with a twist of more exotic rose fragance, and even a secret whisp of smoke, leads to a palate that s a world of aromatic freshness. Cheery wine that s perfect for combatting drear and drizzle, it s decent value packed full of zing and ping. Soalheiro, 2012 Arenae, 2010 Varietal: Alvarinho Pow! Superbly intense, this is a summer scented nectarine-fuelled barrage of pleasure. Zesty and vibrant with citrussy verve, chug a dose of this and your day will be brightened in a single sip. If there was ever a bottle of wine that felt as exuberant as Van Halen s 80 s hit Jump, this is it. Varietal: Malvasia Fina This wine is so special and rare, from the smallest D.O.C. in Portugal right beside the ocean. It s a traditional wine with a salty streak, nutty aromas and a rich texture. It s grown right by the sea on ancient vines crawling over sandy plots. It s traditional and utterly unique - I love it.

SUSHI AND SASHIMI Clean and punchy combinations of fresh ocean flavours and the aromatic whites of Portugal are dazzling. From white grapes such as Siria, which link up beautifully with gingery flavours, to the citric exuberance of Loureiro, the instant buzz of Sushi and Portugal s spectrum of snappy white wines is a pleasure palace of a billion combinations to explore. Perfect for a light lunchtime sip and snack on the go, unleash these arresting sparky bottles and pair them with the seaside s very best bites. Alvarinho Solar De Serrade, 2012 Varietal: Alvarinho Gorgeous floral fragrance, massively fresh with oodles of peachy flavour. Quite rich, very modern and although unique in its own way, dare I say it would probably appeal to fans of Sauvignon Blanc from a certain famous corner of the Antipodes. Brilliant wine. Muros de Melgaço, 2011 Varietal: Alvarinho Melgaço? I say Megalicious. It s mega in every way with a hoofing fat rich creamy texture, showing a touch of evolution as you d expect for its age which adds a certain savoury complexity. One to pair with seaside dishes boosted by carbs.

SUSHI AND SASHIMI Dona Ermelinda, 2011 Esporão Reserva, 2011 Varietals: Fernão Pires, Chardonnay, Arinto Varietals: Arinto, Antão Vaz, Roupeiro Branco The bright intensity of this gently aromatic wine, along with its mildly creamy texture gives it wide appeal for the price. With tropical, floral flourishes it d be lovely to sip this in the sunshine by the beach in Portugal - or just deploy it in the fridge for a sip back home in Britain. Rich with a spanking long finish. The oak boosts richness thanks to a partial barrel ferment and there s a smokey touch on the palate. It s big stuff with serious complexity that s built for pairing with nosh. Lemony richness balanced with full fat zing. Have it! Redoma, 2011 Quinta de la Rosa, 2011 Varietals: Rabigato, Viosinho, Côdega de Larinho Varietal: Viosinho, Rabigato, Côdega de Larinho Subtly scented with elegance and personality. A serious wine, layered with floral complexity and balanced between exuberance and class. Like a jewel glinting with harmoniously cut dimensions, it s wine that gleams from a mineral-fresh core, beautifully made and packaged with flair. A serious white with a savoury finish and rich texture thanks to maturation in barriques. A glorious, cleverly constructed, uniquely Portuguese blend, combining a sense of precision with feeling wild and totally of its place. It took my brain straight to the Douro. Valle Pradinhos, 2011 Vinhas do Lasso, 2010 Varietals: Malvasia Fina, Riesling, Gewurztraminer Varietals: Arinto, Fernão Pires Blended from Gewurztraminer, Malvasia and Riesling this rose-perfumed, fragrant, lemony wine is modern in its dynamic and fruit-propelled vivaciousness. Portugal produces amazing Sushi and Sashimi and this bottle is a marvel with such fresh dishes with subtle gingery spice. Electrifying. Great fun, touches of blossom along with more exotic orchard flavours, it s a gem of a wine for the money and punches above its price. Blended from local grapes Fernão Pires and Arinto, along with international support from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, it s a seamless weave of zesty pleasures. Pato Frio Antão Vaz, 2011 Varietal: Antão Vaz Upbeat, simple and fragrant white wine with zesty clean appeal - and the price is just as friendly as the flavours.

ROAST LAMB It s a classic Sunday roast that brings the family together and a chance to embrace the aromatic reds of Portugal with their stunning depth, complexity and mellow spice. From Touriga Nacional to Trincadeira, the sweet buttery flavour and texture of lamb is a thing of beauty paired with a red of class, poise, balance and subtle fragrance. Top quality Portuguese wines still offer tremendous value for money compared to other regions of the world and if you re splashing out on a top notch bottle, linked with lamb you re on the high road to Bliss City. F OZ, 2011 Varietals: Aragonez, Trincaderia, Castelão Scented with spicy richness, this bold red is seamless blend of Aragónez, Trincadeira and Castelão, awesome value for money and if the name makes you think Down Under, think again: F OZ means estuary, a nod to the mighty rivers across Portugal where these guys make their wine. Feel the flow! Quinta dos Quatro Ventos, 2009 Varietals: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional Vivacious succulent wine with aromatic flair as well as umami and more savoury notes punctuated with darker spicing. Definitely one to pour out and decant before serving and with the potential to age. Cedro do Noval, 2009 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz Earthy and aromatic with serious complexity and richness, this hearty vino with an espresso-like kick is ready to rock. Designed to be sipped straight away. Personally I d tip it into a jug before unleashing it to give it a real chance to show off its booty.

ROAST LAMB Poeira, 2010 CH by Chocapalha, 2009 Varietal: Old Wines Varietal: Touriga Nacional Glorious youthful wine with great potential for ageing. With a pleasing sense of dynamic tension between tangy fruit freshness harnessed to a fine firm structure, this intense berryfruited supple red is youthful, alive and Sunday-Roastacular. Stick the oven on, grab your appetite and get stuck in! This flagship wine fires a 21-gun salute of exuberance with a palate of luxuriously bedecked refinement. There s an elegance to this red, a sleek quality as well as a mighty mast of fruit to hoist your sails and carry your tastebuds on a voyage to The Isles of Intrigue. Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Varietals: Baga, Touriga Nacional This red is pretty concentrated so think about pairing it with food. Summery scents of red fruit remind me of strawberry jam, but when you sip it you get a far tighter and tangier wine with lots of fruit and firm tannin too. Paired up with a roast, you re sorted. Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Vinhas Velhas, 2009 Varietal: Trincadeira I absolutely love this quirky red - it s 100% Trincadeira from Tejo. To me this wine feels like a vineyard unplugged, with an enthralling performance of crunchy red fruit with lively acidity. On the pricer side but there s still value in the bottle for this much personality. Aliança Bairrada Reserva, 2011 Varietals: Baga, Tinta Roriz, Merlot Crikey! Another great value red with real backbone, delicious paired with a hearty meaty feast. It is tight and will open with age but would benefit from decanting to round it out and unfurl its full fragrance and wild berry tang. Esporão Reserva, 2010 Varietals: Aragonez, Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet The scented stylishness of this sleek rich red shows off a real tenet of Portuguese winemaking which is in blending. A seamless full bodied wine with oaky sweet spice and enough boldness to chest bump a proper British roast. Palpite, 2010 Varietals: Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon Outrageous perfume! I got a bit over-excited tasting this wine with Parma Violets scrawled in my notes as though a sparrow had inked its feet and danced Gangnam Style across the page. Tannic texture, charged with scented power. It s hearty with spicy fringes, but it s also very zesty. Julia Kemper Touriga Nacional, 2009 Varietal: Touriga Nacional This classy Touriga Nacional is a complex wine to savour with a small vortex of alluring aromatic character. Herbal spice, delightfully tight structure, it s a wine which will age beautifully and has a certain finesse that I just flipping love.

ROAST LAMB Quinta do Sagrado Reserva, 2007 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Other Muscles in a glass! Powerful, yet with a more modest alcohol level of 13.5%. 10% of this wine is a complex blend of grapes which enhances the headline 90% Touriga Nacional. Fruity appeal with a serious dose of concentrated fruit flavours. Quinta de la Rosa Reserve, 2010 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca Don t be misled by the feather on the label - this is a roaring engine of finetuned seriousness. Depth, tannin, spice, aromatic flare, it s a network of flavours and an absolute megablast of concentrated glory. I could bathe in this stuff, but I d rather drink it. Quinta dos Roques, 2010 Manoella Douro, 2010 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz Silky fine texture with some drying on the finish which makes me want to grab a feast and unleash it on this bottle. Abundant black fruit flavours that glide around the glass with elegance, poise and complexity, beautifully balanced with 13.5% alcohol. Like the pheromones of love itself! If Bacchus was on the pull, he d drench himself in this stuff. Fragrant and beautiful silky vino with a touch of liquorice darkness alongside some cocoa and dark chocolate. It s a marvel in a bottle. Zéfyro, 2009 Crasto Superior, 2010 Varietals: Syrah, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Sousão, Tinta Roriz Divine modern flavour. Fragrant, sleek, nimble, spicy, upbeat vino. There s a smoky touch along with the sleek mulberry style fruit and a long-lasting aromatic finish. Great packaging with a superbly modern eye-catching label. Grab it. Surely one of the best bargains not only in the Douro but in the whole of Portugal. Genius wine with fragrance and power. It s brooding with dark fruit, festive clove-like spice, richness, warmth and flavours that just keep kicking on once you ve sipped it, dishing out extra joy for free. Duas Pedras, 2011 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Viognier YES! Touriga Nacional, Syrah and a squirt of Viognier pumps out a twinge of floral intrigue that, like subtle seasoning, helps to bring out the dimension of flavours here. From smoky, earthy and white pepper warmth to bold dark swirling depths of fruity thrust. Bring. It. On. Altano Quinta do Ataíde Reserva, 2009 Varietal: Touriga Nacional So summery it makes me feel like dusting off my budgie smugglers and diving into an ocean of this wonderful wine. It s dreamy red wine with high-tone perfumed nuances and serious style. Touriga Nacional all the way, it s a brilliant glass of red.

BARBECUE Hearty country reds, blends with character and smoky flourishes - these sorts of wines are abundant in Portugal and such bottles belong at the heart of the Great British Barbecue this summer. With bangers, burgers, prawns and the like, juicy wines with a smoky twist pair a treat, but you don t necessarily need wines with hoofing fat textures. Portuguese blended reds can often offer a decent whack of flavour without a texture so chewy that you need jaws of steel to fully appreciate their charms and this is why they bounce along so beautifully with a barbecue. Sexy, 2011 Marquês de Borba, 2011 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon Varietals: Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet Love or hate the packaging, what s vital is the wine inside the bottle and in this case it s more serious than you might infer from the name. A fruit-driven red with wide appeal thanks to a certain softness and also a reasonable price. As sleek and polished as Darth Vader s helmet. Great value, showing exactly what Portugal can deliver by blending cleverly and bringing out the best of the fruit. Vibrant modern cherryish flavours for those hunting for flavoursome wine that doesn t require a second mortgage to be enjoyed throughout the year.

BARBECUE Vertente, 2009 PAPE, 2010 Varietals: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão Varietals: Baga, Touriga Nacional Fresh power and complexity abound. Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca create a deftly fruited wine with a subtle pepper stash lying in wait to bring it on home. Yee-hah, a joyful red wine that feels like the Dukes of Hazzard doing their slow motion jump in the General Lee. Fragrant violet and herby spice on the nose and a brilliantly deft, tangy, bright style of red from a noteworthy producer. With 13% alcohol, this red is stylistically fantastic and shows what elegance is possible with careful vineyard management and winery handling. Almeida Garrett TNT, 2010 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira TNT here stands for Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira in this fun and inventive modern label concept with the fizzing fuse about to detonate from Beira Interior. Good value, with bright berry flavours alongside some lovely spice and fragrance. Quinta Nova Colheita, 2010 Varietals: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz Something a bit different here, an unoaked red. Tangy (think cherry and plum skins) with perfume and vibrant fruit flavours. Great fun and a top idea to show a new edge to Portuguese winemaking. Tinto da Ânfora, 2010 Claudia s, 2009 Varietals: Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira Varietals: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional For value, complexity and fans of wine from the Iberian Peninsula, this one is a bit of a favourite and has made an appearance or two on Saturday Kitchen over the years. A solid perfomer and this vintage is no exception. With a twist of freshness and stacks of intense vibrant spicy toasty flavours, this wine has richness, a strata of long-lasting flavours with real verve. If it s a big personality you want, meet Claudia and her friends Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão, and Tinta Amarela.

DARK CHOCOLATE The rule of thumb with any sweet dish is to make sure that your wine is sweeter. Portugal is masterful with its fortified wines from the iconic Port wine of the Douro Valley to sensational aged Muscatel and magical Madeira wines with their richness, intensity and astonishing value for money. There s a legion of sweeter Portuguese wines to chose from and among the world s most satisfying wine pairings is a hearty glass of LBV Port with a chunk of dark chocolate. And if you fancy pushing the boundaries a little further with the non-port wines here, why not combine small slices of dark chocolate on top of a creamy, custardy dessert such as crème brûlée or crème caramel? Simple, effective and delicious. Moscatel de Favaios Colheita 1980 Varietals: Moscatel Galego Branco Orangey with honeyed sweetness, this is a rich treasure. Over three decades old and still manages to feel sweetly invigorating. If you deploy this wine at the perfect moment served lightly chilled, it s pretty much guaranteed that cuddles will ensue. Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15 Years Old, NV Varietals: Verdelho Highly tangy with a caramel sweetness and oodles of dried fruit punchiness (think oranges, raisins and sultanas) and some further lazer-like sparks and flashes of orangey acidity, this fortified wine with its baked intensification is a huge part of the heritage of winemaking of Madeira. Dow s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port, 2001 Varietals: Blend Boom! This huge fortified wine is just lush. Spicy, sweet, massively intense, it offers a bold and beautiful range of flavours. It feels like the very vineyard has been detonated and charged with force from the deep sun-burnished rocks of the Douro. Família Horacio Simões Bastardo, 2009 Varietal: Bastadro Sweet and tangy, concentrated rich wine with as much intensity as a hand grenade dipped in marmalade. Bang! It s arresting and unique, like an orange comet with sweet, enduring power.

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