MADEIRA PAIRINGS. by CHEF DAVID SANTOS LOURO RESTAURANT NYC

MADEIRA PAIRINGS by CHEF DAVID SANTOS LOURO RESTAURANT NYC

GEOGRAPHY The Island of Madeira and Porto Santo, along with the uninhabited islands, Selvagens and Desertas, make up the Madeira Archipelago, discovered in 1418 by the Portuguese. This archipelago, located in the Atlantic Ocean, 500km from the African coast and 1000km from the European continent, hosts breath-taking landscapes that attract tourists year-round. Among the variety of natural sceneries, we highlight the vineyards that grow on terraces, forming a sort of staircase that connects the sea to the mountain, with small gardens imbued in the landscape. WINE-MAKING CULTURE Madeira is not only renowned for the beauty of its landscapes. The wines that are produced here have been appreciated all over the world for over five centuries; a fact that results from the enormous potential of the wine region, characterized by soils of volcanic origin and a climate that is favourable to producing fine wines. The hot and humid summers and mild winters, together with the proximity to the sea, provide the Madeira wines with a number of properties that distinguish them from all others; qualities that were appreciated and recognized by mythical figures, such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Winston Churchill. Even Shakespeare chose Madeira wines to feature in his stories. VINE VARIETIES Between August and October, the harvesting is done manually by hundreds of experienced professionals, duly prepared to overcome the challenges posed by the rugged terrain and the smallholding system. They harvest the Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia and Tinta Negra, which today are the varieties most commonly used in the production of Madeira wines. GASTRONOMY The Madeira wines allow a huge variety of gastronomic combinations that vary according to their level of sweetness. The dry wines, being more refreshing, go well with smoked fish or sushi, while the sweeter ones combine perfectly with nuts, honey cake, dark or milk chocolate. The medium-dry ones are very pleasant to have with a consommé or a French onion soup au gratin or even with a duck or goose foie-gras. In this guide you will find six gastronomic suggestions of Japanese dishes that partner-up perfectly with various types of Madeira wines.

MADEIRA WINE

My food is all about balance and contrast, heightened by the element of surprise: I take classic recipes and give them a fresh interpretation. My creativity was spurred by the versatility of the five Madeira wines that IVBAM provided, and my five courses demonstrate the range of dishes which complement these wines, from savory to sweet.

CHEF DAVID SANTOS EXECUTIVE CHEF/PARTNER LOURO RESTAURANT NYC

The ingredients of this recipe sound deceptively simple: a classic combination of figs with fennel. Here, I use fennelin 3 ways: the seeds; lightly sautéed batons; and the lacey bright green fronds, as garnish. The figs, whether fresh or dried (depending on the season), are braised in a Madeira-based liquid, so they become soft and moist and intensely flavorful. The third element is lonza, sliced into thin ribbons and placed on top of the fennel. Lonza is a traditional Portuguese cured meat, but prosciutto or Serrano ham could be substituted. The acidity from the Madeira balances the richness of the meat. WINE DESCRIPTION The nose of the 1988 Terrantez is focused, offering a distinct mineral impression; full and off-dry on the palate, edgy notes of dried Seville oranges dance with flavors of toffee, coffee, roasted figs; baking spices bloom and waft through a satisfying finish.

ROASTED FIG SALAD WITH CITRUS AND FENNEL WITH TERRANTEZ 1988

RECEIPT ROASTED FIG SALAD WITH CITRUS AND FENNEL For the the Figs: 12 dried figs 1 cup Madeira 1 cup water 1/4 cup red wine vinegar For the the Fennel: 1 large fennel bulb, fennel fronds reserved 1 tsp fennel seeds 3 tbsp olive oil 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup cream salt and pepper Garnish: zest of an orange reserved fronds lonza (or prosciutto if not available) olive oil sea salt FIGS Preparation: 1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. 2. Place the figs in a small oven-proof pan in a single layer. 3. Bring the Madeira, water and red wine vinegar to a boil and pour over the figs. The liquid should fill the pan 3/4 of the way up the figs. If you re short, add a little water to reach that level. 4. Roast the figs in the oven for 20 minutes and allow to cool in the liquid. FENNEL Preparation: 1. Separate the bulb into layers and trim the layers into large baton cuts (about 1/2 inch x 2 inches). Reserve any trimmings and keep the batons on the side. 2. Warm a small sauce pan over medium heat, then add the fennel seeds and 1 tbsp olive oil to the pot and toast gently until aromatic, about 2 minutes. 3. Add the fennel trimmings, water, and cream, bring to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Allow to simmer gently until the liquid is very reduced and the fennel trimmings are tender, about 10 minutes. Be careful not to let it dry out completely and burn. If need be, add a little water and reduce the heat a bit. 4. When tender, purée in the blender until smooth. 5. Warm a sauté pan over medium high heat. Add 2 tbsp olive oil and the fennel batons, and sauté until slightly caramelized. Do not overcrowd pan. Set aside and keep warm. To Plate: 1. Spoon the purée on a plate in an oval shape. 2. Arrange the batons on each plate, then arrange the figs. 3. Garnish with the fronds and cured meat. 4. Zest fresh orange with a microplane (zester) over the salad and sprinkle with a little good olive oil and sea salt.

I paired this dish with the Savannah Verdelho, due to its moderately dry nature. For this recipe, I wanted to play on the historical cuisine of that city by paying homage to Savannah s classic Crab Soup. I use the traditional elements in new ways: the crab fritters are made with lump crab meat and grits. The real surprise is the burst of tartness and sweetness from the onion marmalade, which goes in the bowl first, beneath the fritters. The acidity in the onions is reinforced by the Verdelho, one of the drier styles of Madeira. WINE DESCRIPTION Each wine in the series represents a style of Madeira popular in that early American city, in this case, Savannah. This is a medium-dry expression of the grape variety, Verdelho, with nutty flavors and refreshing acidity. Often sipped as an aperitif, it is also a perfect accompaniment to soups.

SAVANNAH CRAB SOUP WITH GRITS FRITTERS AND ONION MARMALADE WITH SAVANNAH VERDELHO (SPECIAL RESERVE)

For the Soup: 1 small onion, diced 1/4 cup corn oil 12 cloves of garlic, sliced 1 cup Madeira (optional) 2 large potatoes, peeled and diced 2 quarts crab stock 2 cups heavy cream salt and pepper to taste For the Fritters: 1/2 cup crab meat 1 cup polenta, cooked and cooled 1 tsp of baking powder 1 egg yolk 1/2 cup all-purpose flour For the Onion Marmalade: 1 large red onion, diced 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1/4 cup sugar 1 cup of water 1/4 tsp salt Garnish: onion marmalade chive batons RECEIPT SAVANNAH CRAB SOUP WITH GRITS FRITTERS AND ONION MARMALADE SOUP Preparation: 1. In a small stock pot over medium heat, sauté the onions in the corn oil until just softened, about 7 minutes. The onions should not brown. 2. Add the garlic, salt and pepper, then sauté for another 3 minutes. Deglaze the pot with Madeira if using. 3. Add the potatoes and the stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the potatoes and vegetables are soft and tender. 4. Add the cream and cook for another 5 minutes. Purée the soup until smooth and adjust seasoning if needed. FRITTERS Preparation: 1. Preheat fryer to 350 F. 2. Mix all ingredients thoroughly in a bowl and allow to rest for 15 minutes. 3. Shape the batter into balls, using small ice cream scoop (1 ). 4. Fry in a fryer until crisp and keep warm. ONION MARMALADE Preparation: 1. Add all the ingredients to a small saucepot. 2. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. 3. Simmer the ingredients together until almost all the liquid is evaporated. Towards the end, be careful not to burn the mixture as it reduces; lower the temperature as needed. 4. The onions are done when most of the liquid is gone and what s left behind are onions, which have softened and melted together. It may be slightly loose when hot, but will thicken once it has cooled. To plate: 1. Place the onion marmalade at the bottom of the bowl. 2. Arrange the fritters on top and garnish with the chive batons. 3. Pour the soup over the fritters, covering them 3/4 of the way.

This is a modern interpretation of a classic comfort food dish - Coelho Estufado - a Portuguese family favorite. In Portugal, the dish is simpler: the rabbit is braised whole, and the rice is cooked with the rabbit-braising liquid. I prefer to use just the very meaty hind leg, which avoids the smaller bones found throughout the rest of the body. Rabbit is easily available at sources such as D Artagnan, but if not, chicken legs/thighs can be substituted. Under the rabbit is a plump and creamy risotto, bursting with flavor from the vegetable/wine stock, with textural contrast from the peas and carrots. WINE DESCRIPTION A wine with depth, medium body, acidity and sweetness. Lively and full with delicious flavors of caramel and toffee and a lingering aftertaste.

BRAISED RABBIT WITH CARROT AND PEA RISOTTO WITH BOAL 15 ANOS

For the Rabbit: 4 rabbit legs flour to dust 1/4 cup grape seed oil 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped into large dice 1 onion, chopped into large dice 2 stalks celery, washed and chopped into large dice 2 quarts high quality chicken stock 2 bay leaves 2 cups Madeira salt and pepper to taste For the Risotto: 2 tsp olive oil 1 cup of Arborio rice 1 shallot, minced 1 cup white wine 1 quart white chicken stock, held at a light simmer 1/2 cup diced blanched carrots 1/2 cup blanched peas 3 tbsp butter 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese salt to taste pea shoots for garnish RECEIPT BRAISED RABBIT WITH CARROT AND PEA RISOTTO RABBIT Preparation: 1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. 2. Dust the legs with flour and seasoning, then allow to rest for 5 minutes. 3. Place a oven-proof medium-sized stock pot that will fit all the ingredients over medium high heat. 4. Add the grape seed oil to the heated pan, then place the legs in and sear on one side until nicely brown, about 8 minutes. Flip and sear the other side for about 6 minutes until it reaches the same color. Remove from the pot and set aside. 5. Add the carrots, onions and celery to the pot and sauté until they get a little color and are nicely roasted. 6. Deglaze with Madeira then add the stock and bay leaves. 7. Place the rabbit legs in the pot and bring to a simmer. 8. Cover and place in the oven to braise for 3 hours or until the meat is super-tender. 9. Allow to cool to room temperature in the pot. RISOTTO Preparation: 1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add the olive oil and rice, then toast for about 4 minutes. Don t allow too much color, just a light aromatic toasting. 2. Add the shallot, season with salt and sauté another 2 minutes. 3. Add the white wine and stir gently, keeping all the grains covered. 4. Allow the liquid to evaporate then add 1/4 of the stock and follow the same process. Repeat this until the rice is just tender. It should take four additions including the wine but double check after the third addition is done. 5. When the rice is ready, add the butter, carrots and peas. Stir to emulsify and make creamy. 6. Add Parmesan cheese and correct seasoning (additional salt if necessary). To plate: 1. When ready to serve, place the rabbit with a little of its stock in the oven and heat through, about ten minutes. 2. Remove some of the braising liquid and reduce to make a sauce. 3. Place the risotto in the bottom of the bowl and place the warm rabbit on top. Drizzle with sauce and garnish with pea shoots.

Portuguese cheeses are a classic accompaniment to Madeira, not only because of the complementary flavors, but also because the acidity of the Madeira cuts through the butterfat of the cheese and cleanses the palate. Some of the best imported Portuguese cheeses include Amarelo da Beira (blend of goat and sheep), featured here; Serra de Estrella (sheep s milk), Zimbo (sheep) and São Jorge (cow). An English or American Cheddar is also delicious, as are many different types of Blue cheese. As a course of a meal, I serve cheese with dried fruit and nuts, although I also love to enjoy cheese accompanied with toast, spread with a freshly made jam, such as apricot or quince. WINE DESCRIPTION A nose of toasted nuts, caramel and Christmas spices presage a rich, full-bodied palate, with layers of coffee, roasted nuts, peaches and apricots; relatively rich and assertive.

CHEESE COURSE: AMARELO DA BEIRA BAIXA WITH MALMSEY 10 YEARS

RECEIPT CHEESE COURSE: AMARELO DA BEIRA BAIXA CHEESE COURSE For the Cheese Course: 1 whole wheel Amarelo cheese 1 cup dried apricots 1 cup dried prunes 1 cup candied pecans 1 cup red walnuts toasted bread as needed Preparation: 1. Allow the cheese to soften at room temperature for an hour before needed. 2. Arrange the fruit and nuts around the cheese and set out for your guests with several cheese knives.

I chose this dessert because the flavor notes of the 10 Year Old Malvasia Madeira are characterized by notes of chocolate and nuts, so the wine adds depth and complexity to the tastes of this dish. My twist on your basic all-american ice cream sundae is that I use 4 different types of chocolate: the brownie base is made with dark chocolate; on top of that is a scoop of white chocolate ice cream; over that, a milk chocolate sauce is poured, and sprinkled on top are the crunchy bitter cocoa nibs. It is an explosion of taste and textures, all on the irresistible theme of chocolate. WINE DESCRIPTION Clean and brilliant deep amber color; on the nose: dark chocolate and toffee; delicious and complex bouquet. On the palate: sweet, soft and richly textured with a mellow but strong character. Long and sweet aftertaste.

WHITE & DARK CHOCOLATE SUNDAE WITH MALVASIA 10 YEARS OLD

RECEIPT WHITE & DARK CHOCOLATE SUNDAE For the Brownies: 4 oz. dark chocolate (preferably Valrhona) 4 oz. butter 1 egg + 1 yolk 9 oz. sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 Tablespoons cocoa powder 1 tsp salt 4.5 oz. all-purpose flour BROWNIES Preparation: 1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. 2. Line a brownie pan with parchment paper and bake for 12-15. 3. Over a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter together, stirring to keep emulsified. 4. In another bowl, whisk the egg, egg yolk, sugar and vanilla. Then incorporate the cocoa powder and salt. 5. When combined, whisk in the chocolate mixture. 6. The brownies are ready when an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pan. Garnish: white chocolate or vanilla ice cream chocolate sauce candied cocoa nibs To plate: 1. Break up the brownie into large pieces and arrange on the bottom of a bowl. 2. Top with ice cream, then garnish with chocolate sauce and cocoa nibs.

WHERE TO BUY 1. Lonza: www.laquercia.us; www.boccalone.com 2. Rabbit: www.dartagnan.com 3. Portuguese cheeses: www.artisanalcheese.com 4. Cocoa nibs: www.chocosphere.com, www.williams-sonoma.com

Madeira Wine brand is used, nowadays, by eight producing and exporting companies: HENRIQUES & HENRIQUES, VINHOS S.A. 9300-138 Câmara de Lobos Telefone:+ 351 291 941 551 Fax:+ 351 291 941 590 e-mail: heh@henriquesehenriques.pt www.henriquesehenriques.pt MADEIRA WINE COMPANY, S.A. Rua dos Ferreiros, 191 9000-082 Funchal Telefone:+ 351 291 740 100 Fax:+ 351 291 740 101 e-mail: custserv@madeirawinecompany.com www.madeirawinecompany.com H. M. BORGES, SUCRS, LDA. Rua 31 de Janeiro, 83 / 9050-011 Funchal Telefone:+ 351 291 223 247 Fax:+ 351 291 222 281 e-mail: info@hmborges.com www.hmborges.com J. FARIA & FILHOS, LDA. Travessa do Tanque, 85 e 87 9020-258 FUNCHAL Telefone:+ 351 291 742 935 Fax:+ 351 291 742 255 e-mail: jfariafilhos@sapo.pt PEREIRA D OLIVEIRA (VINHOS), LDA. Rua dos Ferreiros, 107 / 9000-082 Funchal Telefone:+ 351 291 220 784Fax:+ 351 291 229 081 e-mail: geral@doliveiras.pt VINHOS BARBEITO (MADEIRA), LDA. Est. R. Garcia - Parque Emp..Cª.Lobos Lote 8 9300-324 Câmara de Lobos Telefone:+ 351 291 761 829 / Fax:+ 351 291 765 832 e-mail: info@vinhosbarbeito.com.pt www.vinhosbarbeito.com JUSTINO S - MADEIRA WINES, S.A. Parque Industrial da Cancela 9125-042 Caniço - Santa Cruz Telefone:+ 351 291 934 257 Fax: +351 291 934 049 e-mail: justinos@justinosmadeira.com www.justinosmadeira.com CAF Caminho de São Martinho, 56 9000-273 Funchal Telefone: +351 291 702456 Fax: +351 291 766206 e-mai.: info@cafmadeira.com www.cafmadeira.com

INSTITUTO DO VINHO, DO BORDADO E DO ARTESANATO DA MADEIRA, I.P. RUA VISCONDE DO ANADIA, 44 9050-020 FUNCHAL TELEFONE: +351 291 211 600 FAX: +351 291 224 791 IVBAM.SRA@GOV-MADEIRA.PT WWW.VINHOMADEIRA.PT HTTP://FACEBOOK.COM/VINHOMADEIRAWINE