LEONARDO DI CARLO LEONARDO DI CARLO HAS ALWAYS HAD PASTRY INSIDE HIS MIND, AND SINCE A FEW MONTHS AGO ALSO IN A MONUMENTAL BOOK TITLED TRADIZIONE IN EVOLUZIONE. ARTE E SCIENCIA IN PASTICCERIA, PUBLISHED BY CHIRIOTTI. And we wanted to ask this kind Italian master chef about an emblematic dessert, one of those specialties without which pastry would not be complete THAT IS, THE BABA (AND ITS BROTHER THE SAVARIN), A REAL WONDER BORN FROM THE CREATIVITY, TALENT AND TECHNIQUES OF THE FATHERS OF ARTISANAL PASTRY. Indeed, making it possible for a dough to be able to imbibe such a generous amount of syrup and rum without losing its firm, solid structure is somewhat magic. Di Carlo explains how to prepare the best baba/savarin, and shares two interesting uses with us, as a plated dessert and in a verrine. Photos: ANTONIO CASTELLANI Chiriotti Editori & Di Carlo Leonardo (except photos recipes) The best baba is the one my colleagues from Napoli and Salerno make 111 so good..
Leonardo di Carlo Can you briefly explain what a savarin and a baba are? What is the difference? A baba is a fermented dough which has the shape of a drinking glass and resembles a mushroom. And so is the savarin, although this latter has the shape of a doughnut. The dough used to make a baba is often used to make a savarin, but only a maximum of 20% raisins is used in the first kneading. It can also include a small amount of milk or cream, whereas a baba has only eggs. Why is using the very best flour so important for this dessert? What is its task? Good flour is essential, as it is the main ingredient which will allow the baba to imbibe all the liquid while keeping its structure. The quality of flour will depend on the proteins it contains and how well balanced they are between each other. Generally speaking, the higher the protein content is (14.5%), the better the quality of the flour. And the connection between the two acting proteins (gliadin = extensibility and elasticity; and glutenin = tenacity) will determine how airy the structure will be after being cooked. During the kneading, and thanks to the liquids present in the recipe, a gluten mesh in formed which gives the dough body. This will allow the carbon dioxide bubbles to develop and expand during the cooking process, as well as the oxygenation of the enzymes of the yeast during the fermentation. If we use any flour poorer in proteins, the result will be a less open-crumb product, with less power of absorption of liquids and fats. What do we give the baba to imbibe? What liquor suits it best? The most widely used is rum, either light or dark. We can name two big groups: industrial rums and agricultural rums. Industrial rum is the one resulting from the distillation of molasses, whereas agricultural rum is obtained from fresh cane juice. Also, a base of syrup enriched with orange peel, cinnamon, star anise or vanilla beans is obviously important. How is the dough prevented from over-soaking and crumbling during the soaking process? And why is this process so delicate? This process may seem easy, but is highly important and delicate. Some experience is needed. Once the scented syrup has been made, the liquor is added during the cooling process (at 45 to 50ºC) and a slight, premature evaporation of the volatile aromas takes place. Depending on the quantity and whether the kneading is direct (immediate) or indirect (with initial pre-kneading), the liquid is added hot (45-50ºC) for dry products, or warm (35-40ºC) for the just baked ones. The syrup should not have a high concentration of sugar, as it would not easily reach the core of the product. Or on the contrary, if too little concentrated, it would quickly run through the product and result in leaks. For this reason, honey is an excellent moisturizing ingredient and prevents the top of the dessert from drying excessively. When soaked, the piece should slightly be pressed down and left to drain the excess syrup on a rack. The piece can then be decorated with apricot glaze, and a topped with some chantilly and fresh fruit. If a highly rum-scented baba is desired, its surface can be gently drizzled with some rum (15-20% vol.) Is baba a too sugary dessert? What kind and percentage of sugar do you use? The percentage of sugar in the dough is quite low, between 2.5 and 3.5%, which stops any excessive coloring during the cooking. But the real sweetening power I prefer the savarin with raisins because I find the combination of raisins and honey really pleasant. Besides, it remains tasty for a longer time. 112
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Modern pastry has no meaning without science. It is like a boat without a rudder. comes from the syrup in the process of soaking, and this is why this specialty is not that sweet. What are the main obstacles when making a baba and/or savarin? The most difficult step is to make the dough itself, as before any fat is added, a proper gluten mesh should have been formed so as to prevent this fat from coming off, and thus making the dough lose its shape and structure. It is also important the kind of yeast used either direct or indirect, as each of them produces a structure with varying degrees of smoothness. Nowadays, when sugar and alcohol are badly looked at almost in a fanatic way, does one need to be brave to defend the good qualities of a good baba or savarin? What is the argument? The baba is a dessert which was born rich in liquor. However, it is true that a trend towards eating products with less sugar or alcohol content has been observed lately. There is always the chance to adapt, even in the case of children, obviously without any liquor, for example with some fresh or exotic fruit syrups. It is also very interesting as a plated dessert, or even served in a verrine. Nearly 200 year ago, the great French jurist and gourmet Brillat-Savarin (after whom this dessert is named) published his book The Physiology of Taste, in which the culinary art was linked to science, especially physics, chemistry and even medicine. In your latest book, you have had the chance to confirm the importance of science in pastry, haven t you? Modern pastry has no meaning without science. It is like a boat without a rudder. Without science, we don t know where we are heading for, and above all we are unable to explain why certain things happen. Nowadays, every professional has to know the ingredients, the techniques for their correct processing, the chemistry and physics necessary to understand the transformations that can be obtained, but it is also essential to understand that our work is able to convey emotions. Where did you taste the best baba or savarin you remember? What was it like? To be honest, the best baba is the one my colleagues and friends from Napoli and surroundings, and also from Salerno, make. They are real masters of babas, and when I am with them, I can t stop eating them. In your recently published book, you offer different recipes about this specialty: regular, French, with cocoa, with acacia honey, with biga and the savarin with raisins. What is your favorite and why? By far, I prefer the savarin with raisins because I find the combination of raisins and honey really pleasant. Besides, it remains tasty for a longer time. 115 so good..
Leonardo di Carlo savarin dough 1000 g flour w320 45 g acacia honey 30 g brewer s yeast 200 g milk 650 g whole egg 300 g butter, softened 1 fine lemon zest 18 g fine salt Place the first four ingredients in a mixer and knead. Add the eggs and then gradually the butter mixed with the salt and spices. Continue to knead to a soft, smooth texture. Leave to ferment for one hour approximately at 25ºC. Transfer the mixture into butter-greased molds about 1/3 full. Allow to ferment until the mold is totally full. Bake at 180-200ºC for about 12 minutes. Store in a drying oven. syrup for baba 1 l water 350 g sugar 50 g acacia honey 1 u cinnamon stick 1 u lemon zest 140 g rum, 70 vol. ivoire chocolate and almond whipped cream 400 g whipping cream, 35% fat 85 g acacia honey 12 g fine lemon zest 150 g Ivoire white couverture, chopped 50 g cocoa butter, chopped 330 g almond paste 50% 800 g whipping cream, 35% fat Boil the first 4 ingredients together and slowly pour over the cocoa butter and couverture. Mix, add the almond paste gradually and finally the cream. Continue to mix for two minutes, cover and leave to set in the refrigerator overnight. If necessary, whip in a mixer until stabilized. senga sengana strawberry compote 200 g water 500 g sugar 1250 g Senga Sengana strawberry 35 g lemon juice Cook the sugar and water to 140º, add the strawberries cut into small dice, gently combine and cook again for 15 minutes. Finally add the lemon juice and leave to cool. Use as a sauce for the dessert. Combine the water, sugar, honey and aromas and bring to a boil. Leave to cool and add the rum. MONTAGE PLACE THE STRAWBERRY SAUCE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PLATE, SOAK THE SAVARIN IN THE RUM SYRUP, THEN LEAVE TO DRAIN AND PLACE ON THE PLATE. TOP WITH THE CHOCOLATE AND ALMOND CREAM AND GARNISH WITH SOME FRESH FRUIT. 116
SAVARIN MY OWN WAY
TRADITIONAL BUT 118
baba dough 1000 g high gluten flour W400 70 g sugar 30 g brewer s yeast 900 g whole egg 350 g butter, softened fine lemon zest 18 g fine salt Place the first three ingredients in a mixer. Then add the eggs and knead until the gluten is formed. Gradually add the butter mixed with the salt and spices, and continue to knead to a soft, smooth and elastic texture. Leave to ferment for about one hour at 25ºC. Transfer the mixture into butter-greased molds about 1/3 full. Allow to ferment until the mold is totally full. Bake at 180-200ºC for about 12 minutes. Store in a drying oven. mint syrup for soaking 1 l water 200 g cane sugar 25 g fresh mint 150 g Malibu, 21% vol. Finely grind the sugar and mint with the help of a food processor. Combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Leave to cool, add the Malibu and strain. peppermint syrup for soaking 1.5 l water 400 g cane sugar 12 u peppermint essential oil 225 g Malibu 21% vol. Make a syrup with the first three ingredients, leave to cool and combine with the essential oil and liquor. spiced pineapple gelée 700 g fresh pineapple juice, centrifuged 40 g acacia honey 2 u cinnamon sticks 4 g cardamom seeds 3 star anise 4 g coriander Combine all the ingredients, bring to a boil and strain. Leave to cool and store in refrigerator. MONTAGE PLACE A BABA SOAKED IN MINT SYRUP (EITHER OF THE PROPOSED ABOVE) ON THE BOTTOM OF A VERRINE. POUR THE PINEAPPLE GELÉE, THE RASPBERRY PIECES AND LEAVE TO SET IN REFRIGERATOR FOR ABOUT TWO HOURS. FINISH WITH A VANILLA CHANTILLY AND FRESH LEMON ZEST. 119 so good..