Regional Influences Create Wide Varieties of Kimchi Although a basic fermentation process is central to kimchi, a countless variety of ingredients and seasonings can be included in its preparation. With the Korean Peninsula lying along a lengthy north-south axis, its wide range of climatic conditions have contributed to a diverse array of cultural characteristics, including distinctive variations of kimchi. Han Bokryeo President, Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine 16 Koreana Winter 2008
Kimchi varieties differ according to the particular vegetable ingredient, seasonings, and region of origin. Timespace Winter 2008 Koreana 17
The diverse regional influences of the Korean Peninsula, as a result of notable variances in climatic and geographical conditions, have contributed to the creation of a wide variety of unique types of kimchi. In general, kimchi in the southern regions is characterized by its bright redness, sharp taste, and minimal liquid, while that of the central regions is associated with types with a lighter red color, due to the use of less red pepper, which is served with a considerable amount of liquid. Farther north, the kimchi is immersed in liquid, mild in taste, and crisp in texture. The southern areas of the Korean Peninsula are relatively warmer, so additional salt is needed to prevent the kimchi from fermenting too quickly. In contrast, in the north, people will prepare kimchi with less salt and lighter seasoning, which serves to accentuate the natural vegetable flavors. Meanwhile, the kimchi of the central regions covers a broad spectrum of diversity, with more moderate and subtle tastes. Regional Characteristics In addition to the salt that is needed to preserve the vegetable ingredients, and red chili pepper, which gives kimchi its distinctive spiciness and redness, there are several other ingredients that factor into its savory taste. In particular, the salted seafood items, which are produced by a lengthy maturation process, vary widely based on regional and cultural influences. The regional characteristics of kimchi can be identified from the type of salted seafood ingredient used in its preparation: in the southern regions, people favor salted anchovies; along the eastern coast, salted large-head hairtail fish and salted chub mackerel; and in the central regions, salted yellow corvina and salted shrimp. Salted anchovies are made from fresh anchovies caught off the southern coast, which are salted and left to mature. Anchovies preserved for two to three months are known as salted anchovies, while those aged for six months or more are referred to as salted anchovy brine. Large-head hairtail are preserved by salting the entire fish, which are allowed to ferment for a year or so, until the flesh acquires a deep chestnut brown color. Different types of seafood ingredients are included in the preparation of kimchi because of the fact that, above all, it is a staple of common people, which necessitates the use of readily available products from local areas. The inclusion of salted seafood helps to prevent the kimchi from over-fermenting, and turning rotten, along with adding to its complex and zesty flavorfulness. However, the seafood ingredients need to be used in moderation, so as to not produce a fishy odor. The garlic, ginger, and red chili pepper added to kimchi can serve to neutralize any fishy smell of the salted seafood, which aids in the proper fermentation. Another kimchi ingredient is an alga gathered from the rocky shorelines of shallow coastal waters, commonly known as dead man s fingers or sea staghorn. It helps the kimchi to maintain a firmer texture, while also increasing its nutritional value, in terms of calcium and phosphorus content. In Goheung, Jeollanam-do Province, the local specialties of oysters and ark clams are often added in large amounts, which results in a unique kimchi, with a distinctive seafood taste. Also, citron might be added at times to offset the kimchi s spiciness with a subtle citrus fragrance. As for the City of Donghae, Gangwon-do Province, along the east coast, a cuttlefish kimchi is prepared during the cuttlefish season, which Essential kimchi seasonings include salt and various salted seafood, such as fermented anchovy, large-head hairtail, yellow corvina, and shrimp. The salted seafood helps to enhance the kimchi s savory taste and provides the protein, calcium, and fat that are lacking in the vegetable ingredients. 18 Koreana Winter 2008
Kimchi Gyeonmunnok, Designhouse features cuttlefish and shredded white radish that offer a delightful contrast of chewy and crunchy textures. Gaeseong is known for combining kimchi with a variety of 35 or so ingredients, such as apple, pear, pine nuts, jujube fruit, gingko nuts, octopus, and abalone, within a cabbage-leaf wrapping. Pyeongyang-style Chinese cabbage kimchi includes various types of nutritious mushrooms, such as shiitake and rock mushrooms. It is lightly salted and served immersed in liquid. However, the development of modern transportation and the mobility of today s society have tended to diminish the uniqueness of regional characteristics, as ever more people end up moving away from their hometown. For example, in the capital district and City of Seoul, which is home to about one-quarter of Korea s population, its residents include people from across the country, who might continue their regional kimchi-making practices, but also adopt new variations due to interaction with neighbors and the availability of ingredients. As such, this convergence of influences has contributed to a kind of standardization of today s kimchi. Furthermore, the various types of salted seafood ingredients are increasingly being used in combination with each other, thereby reducing the distinctiveness of kimchi varieties previously associated with a particular region. Nevertheless, any number of regional kimchi specialties is still available in outlying locations, such as the variety with salted sand eel, which is offered in the Chungcheong-do and Gyeonggi-do provinces. Winter 2008 Koreana 19
Dongji kimchi Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine Jejudo Jejudo, the southernmost island of Korea, enjoys a warm climate that makes it unnecessary for residents to prepare preserved vegetables for the winter season. Due to its natural environment, Jeju is associated with only a limited number of kimchi variations, which are not intended to be kept for long. Still, dongji kimchi is unique to Jejudo, which is traditionally prepared on the first full moon of the lunar New Year, with Chinese cabbage that has survived the winter. When pale yellow flowers bloom on the cabbage plants, they are gathered up and soaked in brine, drained and combined with salted anchovies, garlic, and red pepper, then briefly fermented, resulting in a refreshing taste. Jeolla-do Jeolla-do kimchi is characterized by a taste that is said to be spicy and salty, as well as rich and savory. Due to its full-bodied flavor, some people will add glutinous rice paste in order to create a more refined taste. From its southern and western coasts, there is a wealth of diverse seafood for the making of various Jeolla-do kimchi. Preserved yellow corvina and shrimp are popular choices, although salted anchovies is the most common seafood ingredient for making kimchi. Red pepper is liberally added to kimchi, along with sesame seeds and pieces of chestnuts as garnish. Rather than red pepper powder, coarsely ground red pepper, which has been combined with salted seafood in advance, is used for seasoning. The region is well-known for the spiciness of its savory kimchi, which includes varieties made with the bitter roots of Korean lettuce, as well as a watery radish kimchi, of Naju, and a mustard-leaf variation, of Haenam. Oyster and white radish kimchi Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine Gyeongsang-do People along the southern coastal region of Gyeongsang-do favor generous amounts of garlic and red pepper, but little ginger. After Chinese cabbage is soaked in salty brine, it is pressed to remove excess liquid, seasoned with a large amount of salted seafood, and then crammed tightly into storage containers. The kimchi here is characterized by its heavy use of salted seafood, which is typically salted anchovies. As compared to the heavier salted anchovies that are found in Seoul, the local version is allowed to ferment longer, resulting in a reddish extract, which looks such as soy sauce. This anchovy extract, which is known by a number of names, such as aekjeot, myeoljang, and eoja, can also be used as a general seasoning. Raw ingredients, such as large-head hairtail, are also included to make kimchi, after being finely sliced and combined with red pepper powder and salt. Young radish kimchi Pulmuone Kimchi Museum 20 Koreana Winter 2008
In general, kimchi in the southern regions is characterized by its bright redness, sharp taste, and minimal liquid, while that of the central regions is associated with types with a lighter red color, due to the use of less red pepper, and served with a considerable amount of liquid. Farther north, the kimchi is immersed in liquid, mild in taste, and crisp in texture. Mustard-leaf kimchi is a popular side dish of the Jeolla-do region. Generous seasoning with chili pepper powder gives it a noticeable spiciness, while the distinctive aroma and mild bitterness of the mustard leaf is said to stimulate your appetite. Topic Photo Winter 2008 Koreana 21
White radish kimchi is an everyday version made by chopping a large radish into cubes. Autumn radish is especially sweet and firm, making it ideal for a flavorful white radish kimchi. In coastal regions, this kimchi is often combined with oysters. Topic Photo 22 Koreana Winter 2008
Chungcheong-do The kimchi of Chungcheong-do is often not as salty as in other regions, and also simpler to prepare than that of the Seoul/Gyeonggi-do area. Basic ingredients include mustard leaf, dropwort, green onions, fermented red pepper, and dead man s fingers. Chinese cabbage and white radish are also salted and seasoned whole, and then packed into separate jars, according to their salt content. There is also a mixed cabbage and white radish kimchi, in which the ingredients are chopped into large chunks and mixed together, then seasoned with the extract of salted seafood, such as yellow corvina or shrimp. Young radish kimchi is often made, but unlike the white radish kimchi of Seoul, it is only lightly seasoned to enhance its refreshing taste. Combination of cabbage and radish kimchi Pulmuone Kimchi Museum Wrapped kimchi Timespace Seoul / Gyeonggi-do In the densely populated areas of Seoul and Gyeonggi-do, the kimchi does not lend itself to clear characterization. However, it could be described as being less distinctive, in terms of regional traits, which can be attributed to a desire to appeal to a wider range of taste preferences. Typical kimchi types are made with Chinese cabbage, young radish, and white radish, along with wrapped kimchi. Other popular varieties of Seoul include palace-style soy kimchi, boiled white radish kimchi, cucumber kimchi, and scale kimchi, in which the radish surface is sliced into scalelike pieces. The seafood seasonings are usually salted shrimp, salted anchovies, or salted yellow corvina, which are readily available, in addition to a variety of raw ingredients, such shrimp, pollack, and large-head hairtail. Gangwon-do With Gangwon-do Province being situated alongside the East Sea, its kimchi specialties include those prepared with fresh pollack and cuttlefish, which uniquely feature the fragrance and rich taste of fresh seafood. Chinese cabbage kimchi is generally similar to that of the central regions, but can be distinguished by the addition of slices of raw cuttlefish and dried pollack, which bolster the calcium content and nutritional value. White radish is chopped into large chunks, mixed with red pepper powder, and added to the cabbage layers. Bonnet bellflower root kimchi prepared with fermented lancefish sauce Kimchi Gyeonmunnok, Designhouse Winter 2008 Koreana 23
Hwanghae-do The kimchi here is relatively similar to that found in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, and Chungcheong-do; however, it is distinctive in regard to the use of particular spices, such as cilantro for Chinese cabbage kimchi, and fruit of the prickly ash for squash kimchi. Squash kimchi, as in Chungcheong-do, is made from a mixture of squash and brine-soaked Chinese cabbage cut into large pieces, salted, and allowed to mature. It is often boiled and served in kimchi stew dishes. Squash kimchi Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine Pyeongan-do As for Pyeongando, the region s kimchi is notable for its light seasoning and large volume of liquid. Chinese cabbage and white radish kimchi are made separately, and also in a combination, with both being packed together in the same container. The seasoning consists of shredded white radish, green onions, garlic, ginger, red pepper powder, and thinly sliced red chili pepper, along with 3 raw pollack, large-head hairtail, clams, and shrimp. This can be supplemented with salted young large-head hairtail, yellow corvina, and shrimp, combined with a small amount of red pepper powder. Of note, the liquid, unlike that of Hamgyeong-do Province, is not a brine solution, but a beef broth seasoned with salt, from which the fat has been skimmed off. In addition to being savored for its refreshing zest, the tangy liquid is also served as a broth for cold noodle dishes. Pyeongan-do is especially known for its watery white radish kimchi and white radish kimchi served with cold noodles. Chinese cabbage water kimchi with light seasoning Korea Agro-Fisheries Trade Corporation Hamgyeong-do The regional kimchi of Hamgyeongdo is known for its spiciness, but is typically less salty and served with a large amount of liquid. When properly fermented, the kimchi is enjoyed for its refreshing taste and distinctive tanginess. Chinese cabbage kimchi is much like that of other regions, but is made with a spicy seasoning sauce, 4 which is splashed 5onto areas here and White radish water kimchi Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine KnJ Entertainment there, rather than being spread throughout ingredients, creating splotches of red on the cabbage sections. In place of salted seafood, raw pollack and flatfish are sliced, mixed with red pepp e r p o w d e r, a n d inserted between the Chinese cabbage leaves. 24 Koreana Winter 2008
White radish water kimchi is prepared with whole radishes or radish chunks that are immersed in liquid, which results in a milder flavor. It is buried in the ground during the winter and allowed to ferment for at least one month. Timespace Winter 2008 Koreana 25