Bordeaux 2004 Medoc Pessac-Leognan Graves Sauternes By Derek Smedley MW Last Updated 6/16/2017 Derek Smedley MW, Rectory Cottage, Lilley, Hertfordshire, LU2 8LU. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 Tasting notes from the following growers: Contents Saint-Estèphe... 4 Pauillac... 9 Saint-Julien... 18 Margaux... 25 Moulis... 33 Listrac... 35 Haut-Médoc... 36 Médoc... 41 Pessac-Léognan... 44 Pessac-Léognan Blanc... 52 Graves... 54 Graves Blanc... 55 Sauternes... 55 Barsac... 59 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 2
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Bordeaux 2004 Médoc / Pessac-Léognan / Graves / Sauternes / Barsac Tasted in Bordeaux en-primeur April 2005 Tasted on other occasions see date & place in italics Not even the Bordelais will tell you that 2004 was an easy year and this is so very true. It is most certainly a year that involved a great deal of work in the vineyard and when care and understanding was needed in the cellar. The spring was early and cool but was without serious frost. Warm weather followed and as Christian Moueix told me this produced one of the best and most consistent flowerings in recent years. Through the rest of June and July all looked well and the warmth and sun continued but August was the near disaster period with tropical rains and the risk of rot. History then repeated itself another Indian summer happened, September had long warm days and cool nights allowing the fruit to ripen well. Taking the risk of waiting until October for the Cabernet to ripen certainly paid off although this is never good for the nerves. The wines may show acidity on the palate but the acidity is actually lower than in 2003. The tannins are also lower coming from thinner skins although again in many cases they appear, on palate, to be tougher. The features are lower alcohols, less huge ripeness and a fresher feel. The Cabernet did well in the Médoc and the Merlot in Pomerol. Dry whites are attractive but the sweet whites have less concentration and will come forward more speedily and although less classic, will have a fragrant charm. This is a vintage for the claret drinker, not a year for the investor. It has not the same profile as 2003 or 2000 but is more classic, elegant and more defined. It is also a year of extremes, there are great wines but there are some pretty unpleasant wines and ones that one would not want in the cellar. It is not a great vintage, such vintages have much more consistency between the properties but it is a year that has produced some really attractive wines, ones that will give a great deal of pleasure in the years to come. Probably 30 years ago a vintage like this would not have been possible as the care in the vineyard was so very important. Those who felt that just bleeding lots of juice off the fermenting tanks have got it wrong. The ratio of too little juice to skins has produced some very astringent wines where green acidity and tannins dominate; these wines put into new oak are really quite shocking. 3 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 Claret 6+/10 Drink Now Sauternes 6/10 Drink Now Saint-Estèphe Château Le Boscq 90 2008-16 Very concentrated, ripe, sweet fruit a bit over dominated by strong new oak. Raspberry, mulberry, black cherry and blackcurrant are all showing. Tannins are dark, dense and smooth. It is a chewy style, but has the weight of fruit to carry it through. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 87 2012-18 The oak is still in evidence on the nose and the palate feels a bit attenuated. More fruit does emerge in the middle and towards the back but the sweet cassis and blueberry is over dominated by hard tannins. Tasted in Bordeaux April 2010 91 2010-20 The nose is all concentrated black fruits cassis and black cherry but behind there is freshness with bilberry and redcurrant to the fore. The palate although structured by firm tannins has an underlying sweetness and this gives a fleshy feel towards the finish. Château Calon-Ségur 3eme Cru 92-96 2012-30 A really beautiful wine from Calon-Ségur! This could be one of the great buys of 2004, depending on price. Rich raspberry perfume is long and enchanting. The palate is dense with bright, raspberry and loganberry and plenty of cedary oak leading into a rich and concentrated mid-palate. The fresh acidity and a well-structured tannic backbone for tell long life. Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 92 2012-25 There is a lot of powerful black fruit on the nose. Depth of flavour comes through on the palate. The tannic structure is firm but the tannins feel ripe and although a bit closed at the moment but there are lots of black fruits showing behind the tannins. Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 92 2015-25 The nose is black fruit dominated with lots of power and richness of flavour. The mid palate is firm the tannins tending to hold back the fruit at the moment but there is a lot of rich fruit under the tannin which will show with time. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2015-22 Tasted in the Guildhall September 2016 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 4
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 The black fruited mix on the nose is quite fresh but the palate is richer with a good depth of flavour profound with brooding black fruits. It is lighter at the back fresher but the sweeter flavours do come through and give a slightly richer feel to the finish. Château Cos d'estournel 2eme Cru 92-96 2012-30 The aromas are deep, smoky and discreet. On the palate, it's lovely, rich and concentrated, with a fine core of cassis fruit, powerful but not drying tannins. The fresh acidity and well-judged oak marry with the black plum and then fresh raspberry takes over and lasts well. It is a wine of great style and character. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 93 2012-18 There nose is packed out with rich black fruits and this power is there on the palate. Cassis and sloe are backed by black plum fleshing out the mid palate and lending richness to the finish. The ripe black fruits are lifted and refreshed by hints of raspberry. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 92 2014-23 Both nose and palate have black fruited power the cassis and black cherry backed by firmer sloe. The richness on the mid palate is still held back by the tannins but there is sweetness at the back with depth and the richness of black cherry on the finish. Château Cos Labory 5eme Cru 89 2012-20 There is not a lot of fruit showing on the nose and the start of the palate is tight the tannins quite obvious. The mid palate has more depth sweet black fruits just a hint of liquorice firm at the back the finish slightly lacking in generosity. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 90 2012-20 The nose is still very closed up and this tightness is there on the palate. Richer black fruits do come through in the middle and give more flesh towards the back. There is the feeling that some of the fruit sweetness is hidden by tannin firmness and not allowed to express itself at this stage. Château le Crock 88-92 2009-19 It is a classic rather earthy St Estèphe, all a bit dense and chunky. Fruit is firm with very concentrated blackcurrant, and although tannins are high they are rounded. The mid-palate is sweet and pure, and there is a meaty slightly earthy finish. 5 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 Château Haut-Marbuzet 86-90 2008-14 There is a mix of strong coffee and oak on the nose. The palate has good, juicy fruit mixed in with vanilla and lanolin. Tannins are quite supple, and the whole is not as over the top as it often can be. Château Haut-Beausejour 88 2010-18 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 It is closed at the moment with the fruit on the nose held back by quite aggressive tannins. The palate starts more open, sweet bilberry and cassis but towards the back the tannins take over shortening the finish. Château Lafon-Rochet 4eme Cru 87 2010-20 Firm on the nose the start of the palate lacks fruit richness and there is a lack of depth no real generosity. There are some richer black fruits at the back all rather overpowered by tannic firmness and the fruit on the finish tends to dry. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 90 2010-20 There are some attractive black fruits showing on the nose but they are a bit obscured at the moment by tannic firmness. The mid palate is beginning to open up allowing the mix of cassis and black cherry to show to good effect. The finish has a lovely weight of flavour Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 88 2014-23 Rich on the nose but lighter and fresher on the palate the black fruited mix is underpinned by firm tannins. It is beginning to open up on the back palate with some richer sweeter flavours showing on the finish. Château Lilian Ladouys 86-90 2009-15 It is a bit leafy on the nose but there is blackcurrant fruit as well. The palate is a touch jammy, with aromatic, blackcurrant fruit, good, soft tannins, balanced acidity and good length. Château Marbuzet 87-91 2009-18 There is ripe, candied bilberry on the nose sweet, dense and very appealing. The palate is full of ripe, raspberry fruit, typical of the nearly 60 per cent of Merlot in the blend. It's rich and stylish, with good, approachable tannins, fresh acidity and nice overall balance. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 6
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Château Meyney 86-90 2009-20 It seems to be a mix between the more traditional St-Estèphe character and the more modern juicy jam. It has lots of blackcurrant and perhaps a touch too much spicy oak. It is a firm, muscular, style that needs time, but there is sweet ripe fruit showing on the finish. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 88 2010-18 The nose is misleadingly light as the palate has lots of sweet black fruits, cassis backed by some fleshy plum. It is still quite tight on the back palate but behind the tannic gate is sweetness of fruit. Tasted at the Guildhall July 2011 89 2012-22 The nose is still quite firm dominated by black fruits. Blackcurrant and sloe are very much in evidence on the palate underpinned by liquorice and coffee beans. The finish is quite tight but there is more fruit to show with time. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 94 2014-18 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 Tasted at Mosimann s July 2014 Black fruits dominate a rich mix of cassis and black cherry. The start of the palate is sweet ripe fruited the mid palate supple the fruit backed by dark chocolate and although at the back it feels firmer the finish is packed with cassis and black cherry. Château Montrose 2eme Cru 89-94 2012-28 There are rich, ripe, concentrated dark cherry and mulberry fruits, hints of savoury black olive and a touch of plum. It has power and depth with a sweet mid-palate with very muscular tannins that give it oomph on the finish. Just lacks the charm and sweetness of 2003. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 93 2012-25 The nose has that appealing mix of fruits, black cherry and bilberry refreshed by some mulberry and given a touch of spice by savoury black olives. The tannins, although firm, have suppleness and this gives richness and weight towards the back. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-25 Tasted in Whitwell November 2016 91 2016-24 The mix of black fruits has richness and depth with the more powerful black cherry backed by fresher bramble. Savoury and spicy in the middle the back palate has sweetness and although the tannins are still quite tight the mix of bilberry and bramble fresh there is a richer feel on the finish. Château Les-Ormes-de-Pez 89 2010-20 7 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 The nose is closed and the palate tight at the start not much generosity. It opens up to some extent in the middle the mix of cassis and black cherry giving more depth of fruit though slightly over dominated at the moment by tannic firmness. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 89 2012-20 The nose has the fragrance of red fruits backed by fleshier black. The fruit feels ripe, black plum filling out the mid palate and giving richness towards the back. It has that rather modern style feel. Tasted in London at Guildhall September 2009 90 2009-12 There is an attractive ripeness on the nose. Cassis and damson are in evidence on the palate giving fleshy richness, all slightly modern. Towards the back red cherry and bilberry show themselves refreshing the back and end palate. Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 90 2013-18 The nose has some sweet fruit but the start of the palate feels fresher. Black fruits dominate the mid palate quite rich and ripe a rather modern in style and although there is a ripe fruit mix towards the back the finish is lighter with fresher flavours. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-20 Tasted at J & B St. James s October 2014 Cassis dominates the nose quite sweet and ripe but the palate is fresher with more of a bramble character. Although firm in the middle there is a fair depth of fruit showing on the finish. Les Pagodes de Cos 88 2014-22 2 nd wine of Château Cos d Estournel Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 The nose has depth and richness and the palate a strong black fruited character. Although the tannins are firm and the mid palate has bilberry freshness there is a lot of sweet fruit at the back with depth and richness on the finish. Château de Pez 88 2012-18-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 The tannins feel hard and rather aggressive on both nose and entry to the palate. Behind the tannic gate is some sweeter cassis and bramble but is does lack some concentration and richness Château Phélan Ségur 88-91 2012-20 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 8
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 There is some ripe, rich, dark cherry fruit on nose. The palate has good concentration with a mid richness supported by firm, muscular but supple tannins. It is a sturdy, well-structured wine and has concentration and just enough character to give it some class. 89 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 91 2012-20 The nose is lovely and fragrant, quite red fruited. The palate has the freshness of cherry but behind this is some richer cassis and black plum. The tannins are supple fleshing out the mid palate and allowing the richness of the black fruits to show to advantage on the finish. Château Tronquoy-Lalande 92 2010-18 Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 There is some lovely ripe fruit on both nose and palate enriched and given suppleness by the roundness of the tannins. Blackcurrant is very much in evidence fleshed out by coffee and chocolate refreshed by bramble and black cherry Pauillac Château D Armailhac 5eme Cru 89 2012-18 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 89 2011-21 The nose has a black fruited richness and although this is there on the start of the palate the tannins tend to come through and dominate. Cassis and bilberry are there towards the back but their sweetness tends to be overpowered by tannic hardness. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-22 Sweet and ripe the nose has a fleshy richness and the palate is rich fruited with a nice depth of fruit. The richer black plum is backed by cassis the mid palate has a touch of chocolate and although at the back it feels fresher the finish has a good depth of flavour. Château Batailley 5eme Cru 85-89 2008-16 There is intensity of flavour on the nose, ripe fruit but freshness. On palate it is firm and muscular but not over tough tannins and the oak is toasty. Although goodish fruit weight and structure not a wine for the long haul. 88 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 88 2012-18 9 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 The nose has charm, black fruits giving some weight and the red fruits freshness. The palate feels tight, the tannins tending to overpower the sweetness of the fruit. On the finish oak still shows and the structure tends to shorten cutting of the flavours. Tasted at the O W Loeb Tasting September 2010 89 2010-17 It is beginning to show maturity on the nose with hints of cedar wood behind the black fruit mix. Blackcurrant is very much in evidence on the palate the mid sweetness balanced by rather firmer black cherry. The tannic structure that is there towards the back slightly cuts off the fruit on the finish. Tasted at the Farr Vintners tasting Boodles London March 2011 91 2011-22 The nose has an attractive mix of mainly black fruits backed by hints of cedar wood and a touch of maturity. Cassis fills out the mid palate fleshed out by black plum both underpinned by black cherry and sloe. There are layers of flavour giving complexity and good length. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-22 The fruit on the nose is rich and the palate has depth of flavour. Fresher fruits in the middle give a lighter feel some bramble backed by a hint of cedar wood. Black fruited layers of flavour give complexity with the fruit lingering on the finish. Carruades de Lafite 88-92 2010-17 2 nd wine of Château Lafite The nose had charm, almost seamless cherry and blackcurrant fruit and lovely smooth tannins and very good acidity. It's soft, voluptuous, rich and sexy, with captivating bright, ripe fruit. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-22 The fruit is sweet the nose has depth and richness and the palate is power packed. Supple and fleshy the mid palate has voluptuous richness yet behind there are brighter fresher flavours that give a lighter more stylish feel to the finish. Château Clerc Milon 5eme Cru 86-91 2010-20 The one per cent of Carmenère in the blend gives it a slight green pepper character. On top of this are dense, sweet black fruits, a savoury, black olive and an enchanting touch of marmite, tannins are firm but not aggressive. It feels just a shade dry on the finish. 91 2010-21 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 91 2011-22 The richness of cassis and sloe fills out the nose with a green pepper spice giving a fresher feel towards the back. The mid palate has density of fruit, savoury black olive and blackcurrant fleshed out by the roundness of the tannins. There is flesh on the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-22 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 10
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Quite fresh on the nose the hint of green pepper spice gives lovely spicy quality. There is a savoury richness on the start of the palate slightly lighter at the back with the freshness giving way to sweetness on the finish. Tasted at the Château September 2015 92 2015-24 Ripe black fruits the nose has depth and the start of the palate sweetness. Firmer in the middle concentrated fruit the richness added to by the underlying dark chocolate and liquorice. The back palate has structure and depth the finish is quite fresh herbal and spicy. Château Croizet-Bages 5eme Cru 88 2011-20 The nose is firm and fresh the start of the palate lacks depth but the mid palate is richer with a cassis black cherry mix. Fleshy at the back but the underlying tannins are firm the back palate tight and the finish slightly short. Château Duhart-Milon 3eme Cru 88-92 2010-20 There is an austerity and tightness on the nose, but some raspberry forces it way through Depth of fruit on the palate, with toasty oak in the background. It is a very serious wine, with a cassis and chocolate middle, firm backbone and nice balance overall. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 91 2013-22 Although the nose is quite red fruited there is a mix of black behind giving some sweetness. A ripe mix of black plum, bilberry and sloe gives complexity with dark chocolate ensuring richness. The backbone is still firm but there is enough sweet fruit to win through with time. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-22 Fragrant and fresh fruited the nose has charm and the start of the palate is quite light. There is more depth in the middle richer fruit lots of black cherry lots of cassis and this sweetness fills the back palate and gives depth of flavour on the finish. Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 5eme Cru 88-92 2010-25 There is a good concentration of black fruits on the nose. The palate has an attractive weight of ripe fruit lots of intensity, juicy mulberry and dark cherry. The mid palate is firm with some muscular tannins and the good acidity giving a big structure. 90 2010-22 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 90 2013-22 11 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 Although there is some rich black fruit on the nose the firmness of the tannins tends to hold back full expression. The fruit is though showing on the palate, an attractive mix of juicy red, mulberry and strawberry enriched by cassis and sloe. It is still a touch firm on the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 88 2014-22 The nose is a bit tight and the start of the palate has tannic firmness. There is more weight and sweetness in the middle some rich black cherry the sweeter flavours giving a richer feel to the finish. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 5eme Cru 91-93 2014-26 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 It is very rich on the nose, a mass of black fruits. The palate is concentrated and the fruit mix gives complexity. It has power and the tannins though very firm are ripe allowing rich fruit to show at the back. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2013-22 Cassis and sloe enriched by dark chocolate give lots of richness on the nose and this attractive mix is there on the palate. The fruit has power and depth supported by a tannic backbone but as the tannins feel ripe and rounded they allow the sweetness to come through. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-22 The nose has a fragrant charm and the palate starts with bilberry freshness. There is a richer feel to the mid palate sweet ripe feeling cassis and rich black cherry. The sweet fruit the rich flavours give depth and power on the finish. Château Haut-Batailley 5eme Cru 88 2012-18 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 The nose is quite light and this lack of concentration and complexity shows through on the palate. There does not seem to be enough richness of fruit to push through the slightly aggressive tannins. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-20 The nose has a nice mix of flavours mainly black fruits and the palate starts with depth of fruit. There is mid firmness yet enough rich cassis and black cherry to give more weight and depth on the finish. Château Haut-Bages Libéral 5eme Cru 86-90 2010-20 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 12
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Although there is a lot of oak there is a lot of rich, concentrated blackcurrant fruit as well, supported by muscular tannins. A twist of astringency on the finish provides the backbone for ageing, and there's sufficient fruit for balance. 90 2010-21 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 90 2012-22 The concentration of cassis gives richness on the nose and depth to the palate. The tannins are still firm but not aggressive allowing the richness of the blackcurrant and sloe mix to show to advantage. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-20 Tasted at J & B St. James s October 2014 Concentrated black fruits give depth on both nose and palate and although the tannins are firm they do not over dry. Cassis and black cherry at the back are underpinned by firmer sloe the finish has a savoury black fruited character.. Château La Fleur Peyrabon 86-90 2007-13 It has a light and attractive, floral nose with some oak showing. A surprising light weight for Pauillac but has lots of soft, perfumed, raspberry fruit. There is a sexy appeal about it, easy drinking wine made for early enjoyment. Château Lafite-Rothschild 1er Cru 94-98 2010-30 It has a sweet, sexy, vanilla gloss to the ripe cassis fruit on the nose, and wonderfully ripe, sweet blackcurrant fruit on the palate. Tannins are big but voluptuous. It is very classic and stylish and has the framework, length, intensity and the backbone for long ageing. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 95 2012-25 There is an attractive floral character on the nose lying over some rich ripe cassis and dark chocolate. The tannins are there but rounded and ripe giving a voluptuous richness. Although powerful and intense there is a stylish elegance to the long finish. Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 96 2013-40 The nose is packed with rich ripe fruit all very black fruit in character. Blackcurrant, damson and sloe are spiced up by liquorice and coffee refreshed and given complexity by bilberry and bramble. The finish is long flowery with an appealing elegance. 94 2014-30 The fruit feels ripe the nose has richness and depth. There are fresher flavours in the middle a slightly lighter character a mix of bramble and cassis but towards the back sweeter fruit enriches and gives more depth and power yet the finish has an elegant charm. Château Latour 1er Cru 91-96 2015-40 13 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 It is in the classic tradition of Latour making it a wine to be laid down and one that requires patience. It is inky deep, with a lot of rich, dense fruit and a light dusting of cedar and liquoricespicy oak. On the palate, it combines berry fruit richness with a savoury character, still very tight and structured there is fruit at the back giving a good length of flavour. A wine with class!! Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 97 2016-45 The nose is deep, serious packed with powerful black fruits. The richness of the flavours is there on the palate cassis very much in evidence backed by concentrated sloe, liquorice and coffee beans. The layers of flavour give complexity the concentration lightened a bit by some bilberry, the powerful mix coming through and fleshing out the finish. Tasted at the Château May 2013 97 2016-35 There is a lot of rich fruit on the nose blackcurrant, black cherry, sloe and black plum lots of complexity. The start of the palate is deep brooding rich but the middle has a fresher feel some red fruits under the black which gives a lighter feel on the back palate. There is harmony and balance with long lingering flavours. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 96 2014-35 The nose has a brooding black fruited richness and the palate has a mix of powerful black fruits some black cherry, sloe and cassis all underpinned by liquorice and dark chocolate. The tannins although firm feel ripe the mid palate packed with rich fruit and although slightly lighter at the back the finish has a lovely depth of flavour. Tasted in at the Château April 2014 97 2014-35 The nose has depth the richness of black fruits with a brooding power on the palate. Under the black cherry and sloe the firm fruit liquorice and dark chocolate enrich all backed by cassis and black plum. The tannins give structure but feel ripe the back palate has depth a powerful mix of black fruits. Les Forts de Latour 88-92 2010-20 2 nd Wine of Château Latour Typical of this second label it is not made for early pleasure, but for the medium- to long-term. There is a good weight of raspberry fruit on the nose, nice quite sweet black fruit on the midpalate with plenty of concentration and ripe, enveloping tannins. The end is a touch tight. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-23 The nose is so typical of Latour with power and depth very black fruited and the palate has a brooding richness. Black cherry is backed by cassis concentrated black fruits and although the tannins are still firm there is sweet fruit underneath. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 14
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Château Lynch Bages 5eme Cru 85-90 2009-18 It is attractive but quite light and showing a lot of oak on the nose It has a good weight of dark cherry fruit but then oak takes over. Tannins are supple, and fresh acidity makes for a quite interesting style for medium-term drinking. 90 2010-20 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 Bright on both nose and palate, the black fruits are very cassis dominated but this is fresher bilberry in evidence. The mid palate feels ripe but the fleshy feel is firmed up by the tannins. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2011-22 It is quite light on the nose but very fragrant. The oak has married well with the mainly black fruits. The tannins are supple and rounded supporting fleshy blackcurrant and sloe, towards the back dark cherry pushes through giving a fresher feel on the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 92 2014-23 The nose has depth a lot of powerful black fruits with cassis, black plum and chocolate giving richness on the palate. There are some fresher fruits at the back a slightly lighter feel but the finish is power packed deep with lots of brooding black fruits. Château Lynch-Moussas 5eme Cru 87-91 2010-20 It has good fruit concentration and richness, firm, muscular tannins, a fresh acidity running through it and nicely balanced oak. The fruit towards the back is a bit over powered by firm tannin and will need time to soften. 89 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 86 2011-18 It feels very firm the tannins tending to overpower the fruit and close down the nose. The mid palate is richer, cassis and sloe but the tannins show in an aggressive way towards the back not allowing the fruit to really show itself to advantage. Château Mouton-Rothschild1er Cru 91-94 2012-30 At the moment it is very tough, although the nose is savoury and quite fruity it is very firm. The palate has black olive and chocolate cassis with a liquorice-spicy ripe character. All a bit chewy, firm but not astringent tannins followed by very ripe, but not jammy fruit. It is not in total harmony at the moment and it finishes all a bit tight and a touch astringent. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 93 2011-22 The fruit is beginning to come through on the nose and although the tannins are still firm they are not aggressive. The mix of cassis and bilberry is backed by liquorice and black olive giving the fruit a spicy feel. An attractive complex mix of flavours fleshes out the back palate. 15 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 95 2014-30 There is a lovely mix of flavours on the nose all very black fruited and the fruit on the start of the palate is fresh quite light with a lovely mix of bramble and bilberry. There is more depth in the middle the black fruits enriched by black olives and coffee beans. Fresher firmer at the back the finish has depth and sweetness. Le Petit Mouton 92 2014-23 2 nd wine of Château Mouton-Rothschild Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 The nose is rich deep with brooding black fruits and there is a lovely depth of black cherry on the palate. The mid palate is sweet ripe with supple tannins with chocolate and liquorice adding to the richness. Lighter at the back yet the finish has depth and richness. Château Pibran 90 2010-18 Cabernet Sauvignon 55% Merlot 45% Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 Black cherry and blackcurrant gives a black fruited richness on both nose and palate. The palate is chocolate rich fleshed out by ripe tannins. Towards the back bramble and bilberry give freshness on the finish. Château Pichon-Longueville Lalande 2eme Cru 90-94 2010-25 An open, aromatic, easy, perfumed nose all appears quite forward. The palate is different, although the raspberry fruit is ripe and charmingly aromatic there is a terrific structure with very firm tannins and lovely freshness and acidity. Then the beautiful perfumed length returns and stays. 92 2010-22 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2011-22 There is a very attractive blackcurrant perfume on the nose and the fruit has a charming aromatic quality. The mid palate is very firm and the tannins tend to hold back the fruit expression. Sweet fruit does come through at the back and lasts well. Tasted at Bordeaux Index March 2010 92 2011-24 The nose has an attractive mix of blackcurrant and blackberry overlaid by aromatic fragrances. The tannins are still very much in evidence but they do feel ripe not aggressive and allow the fruit to show itself. There is liquorice and rich sloe giving power to the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-22 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 16
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 The black fruits on the nose have an aromatic quality and the start of the palate is fresh quite light. There is more depth a richer feel in the middle the fruit is slightly held back by tannic firmness on the finish. Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2eme Cru 88-93 2010-22 Thank goodness for multiple tasting opportunities! The first sample of this was not up to much. The second had sweet, ripe, raspberry fruit on the nose and a good weight of red fruits on the palate. The tannins are ripe and quite supple, the acidity fresh without being green, and oak well-proportioned. It has medium-weight, fairly classic style. Tasting 2 weeks later at the château confirmed the second opinion. 92 2010-22 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 93 2011-22 The nose is packed with fruit, first sweet ripe cassis and bilberry, then rather fresher raspberry and mulberry. The mix of fruits ensures real complexity; the tannins giving the backbone that supports the sweet fleshy fruit. The palate is enriched by dark chocolate. Tasted at Vintners Hall March 2010 92 2012-24 There is a lot of fruit on the nose with blackcurrant very much to the fore. The palate starts with rich flavours cassis underpinned by black cherry and sloe but towards the back the tannins show tending to hold back the fruit and close down the finish. It is all there but patience is needed. Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 95 2013-30 The mix of blackcurrant and sloe is lovely and rich enhanced by dark chocolate, coffee and liquorice. There are some fresher flavours in the middle hints of red fruits and bilberry, complexity coming from the peppery spice character. The fruit mix lingers on the back palate. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-24 Tasted at the Château May 2016 Cassis and black cherry enrich the nose and give weight and depth on the palate. There is mid freshness but depth of fruit at the back the richness enhanced by chocolate and coffee. On the finish there is sweetness ripe fruit length of flavour. Château Pontet-Canet 5eme Cru 86-90 2010-22 It seems to be a good wine but the samples were not reliable and there was sample variation. The perfumed fruit had a freshness and vanillary oak. There seemed to be a good underlying sweetness, although not exactly rich, with firm, chewy tannins, fair balance and length. 90 2010-22 Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-22 17 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 There are a lot of powerful flavours on the nose with black fruited depth on the palate. The mid palate is lighter perfumed black fruited bramble dominated. It fills out at the back and finishes with rich quite chewy fruit. Réserve de la Comtesse 87-91 2010-15 2 nd wine of Château Pichon-Lalande As is usually the case, this is an accessible younger sister to Pichon Lalande's grand vin. It's soft, ripe and very attractive with lots of loganberry and raspberry fruit. The tannins are very firm at the moment There is a bit of a hole between fruit and the structure and has not quite enough fruit for the long term. Tasted in London at the MMD Tasting January 2010 89 2010-15 The mix of black and red fruits is backed by quite firm tannins but behind them is sweetness and fair weight of fruit. The fruit towards the back, cassis and black cherry feels quite ripe giving a richer feel to the finish. Saint-Julien Château Beychevelle 4eme Cru 89 2010-20 The nose is quite closed and the start of the palate tight but it fills out in the middle with ripe black fruits. Rich and ripe at the back the tannins firm but feel ripe and there is good depth of fruit on the finish. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 87 2010-20 Fruit is there on the nose and gives some weight on the palate. The ripe black fruits are underpinned by fresher red. It just lacks a bit of heart and complexity but a better weight of black fruit comes through adding flesh to the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-22 The fruit feels ripe the nose packed with rich black fruits and the start of the palate fleshy and supple. There is a fresher feel in the middle more bilberry and bramble but it fills out on the back palate with a lovely rich mix of fruits and fleshy depth on the finish. Château Branaire-Ducru 4eme Cru 89-93 2010 25 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 18
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 There is intense berry fruit on the nose and a good weight of fruit on the palate backed by ripe tannins all very seductive and supple. It does not feel over-ripe. Well-integrated oak marries with the fruit giving balance and elegance, the tannic finesse makes for real charm. 88 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November2008 88 2010-20 The nose has some intensity and this weight of flavour is there on the start of the palate. Although the tannins are ripe and supple some acidity is beginning to show and lighten the mid palate leaving the finish a touch short. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-20 The nose has a fragrant charm but the palate is richer more serious with depth of flavour. Supple and fleshy in the middle the black cherry that dominates the back palate gives a firmer feel to the finish. Château Croix Beaucaillou 91 2013-25 Tasted at the Château April 2011 The nose has a lot of ripe black fruit giving it richness. There is a powerful mix of flavours on the palate the fruit feeling ripe and sweet. The tannins are still quite firm but not aggressive so not over dominating the flavours. Clos du Marquis 88-92 2010 20 2 nd wine of Château Léoville Las Cases This is always one of the most serious second wines in the Médoc. There are lively, brightfruited aromas, with excellent rich fruit on the mid-palate, lots of sweetness and perfume and good fine tannins. Attractive length and sweet, dried fruit characters on the aftertaste. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 88 2014-20 Sweet on the nose the palate has a nice depth and richness of fruit. The mid palate is fresher bright with a mix of red and black fruits but at the back dried fruits ripe blackcurrant enriches and fills out the finish. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2eme Cru 89-93 2010-25 It has a fine, mint fruit nose, with both blackcurrant and black cherry on the palate. It is a bigboned, muscular yet elegant style for the long haul. It is lean and powerful with a good weight of fruit on the mid-palate. Tasted at the Château April 2011 93 2013-25 19 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 The nose is serious profound packed with a mix of black fruits. Structured tannins give a back bone but the fruit is rich enough to cope with a mix of cassis and black cherry enriching the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 89 2014-24 The nose has a good mix of black fruits and the start of the palate has lots of rich cassis. It feels fresher towards the back lighter yet although the tannins are firm there is sweetness on the back palate and finish. Château Gloria 85-89 2009-18 The vanilla oak shows on both nose and palate, but there is sweet, concentrated, mulberry and chocolate fruit in there, too. The tannins are strong and chewy, but they do not totally dominate the lovely perfumed raspberry fruit. It is just a bit over extracted on the finish. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 87 2010-20 The oak is still all too apparent and tends to dry the fruit. More weight of flavour comes through giving some richness on the mid palate but then slightly aggressive tannins take over firming up the finish. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 86 2014-20 The nose is firm the start of the palate tight with a strong black fruited character. Although there is a little more depth in the middle the tannins show at the back tending to dry and shorten the finish. Château Gruaud-Larose 2eme Cru 85-89 2010-18 There is not much showing on the nose. The palate is a bit blunt and rustic, some sweet berry fruit but firm tannins, drying on the finish. The impression is of a hefty wine, with rather onedimensional fruit and a coarse finish, and lacking in mid-palate richness. 89 2010-18 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 87 2010-18 The nose has opened up with some floral red fruits giving it freshness. The fruit on the palate is over dominated by aggressive tannins, the firmness giving it a rustic feel. Cassis enriched by dark chocolate comes through towards the back helping to balance the firmness. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 92 2014-22 The nose has concentration and depth and the palate some rich flavours. The mid chocolate richness is backed by bramble freshness, the tannins are more integrated and there is a fleshy sweetness on the back palate with depth on the finish. Tasted at the Château September 2015 91 2015-23 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 20
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 Firm on the nose the start of the palate is quite tight very black fruit in character. It fills out in the middle more depth and richness but at the back the tannins are quite obvious the finish bright and fresh. Tasted on Le Ponant Cruise June 2016 92 2016-23 Firm on the nose the start of the palate is quite tight very black fruit in character. It fills out in the middle more depth and richness quite supple and fleshy with at the back a mix of cassis and black cherry with sweet fruit showing on the finish. Château Lagrange 3eme Cru 88-92 2009-20 Sweet, blackberry and raspberry fruit are very much in evidence, with some fairly obvious oak on the nose. The fruit is fresh and appealing, with a buoyant acidity. The tannins are dense, ripe, a bit coarse, and dry up a bit towards the finish. There is, though, still a core of fresh, sweet fruit on the after-taste. 90 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2010-20 The nose is rich and sweet mainly black fruits in evidence but behind are some fresher red. There is freshness on the palate but in the middle ripe cassis and bramble give flesh, liquorice gives richness towards the back. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 88 2014-22 Although there is some sweet fruit on the nose there is freshness herbal and leafy with minty black fruits on the palate. The ripe cassis on the mid palate is backed by fresher flavours that give a lighter feel to the finish. Château Lalande 86-90 2007-12 It is quite up-front, with very fragrant, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. It's a lighter-bodied style than most, but with firm tannins, good acidity and fragrant, floral flavours. Everything is in balance, and the effect is very appealing. Château Lalande-Borie 86-90 2008-12 It has the makings of an attractive wine with soft, sweet, loganberry and raspberry, quite marked oak and gentle tannins. The finish is a touch rustic but this some charm so much depends on price!! Tasted at the Château April 2011 86-88 2011-16 21 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 The nose is quite firm with red fruits tending to dominate. The oak is still quite obvious and the mid palate has a nutty character rather overriding the fruit. It is a touch rustic and is showing just a hint of maturity. Château Langoa Barton 3eme Cru 89-93 2010-25 It is in the classic Langoa style, fragrant, soft and appealing. The fruit is sweet, strawberry and chocolate, mid-palate is still quite closed but there is real concentration and richness. The new oak shows, but its classy oak, and will, in time, harmonise with the wine. The acidity is good, fresh mulberries and tannins are firm but supple. Weight and balance are excellent. 92 2010-20 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2010-20 The nose has real charm with soft appealing black fruits backed by some fresher but still fleshy strawberry. The mid palate is supple and rich, cassis and sloe enriched by dark chocolate, this ripe power so well balanced by the fresher flavours that show towards the back Tasted at Dyers Hall January 2012 93 2014-25 There is real charm with a sweet mix of flavours on the nose and layers of fruit on the palate. Bramble and cassis tend to dominate enriched by dark chocolate and coffee but the sweetness is balanced by freshness that gives a lighter more elegant feel on the finish. Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 88 2013-15 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn February 2013 The nose is rich with a mass of black cherry and cassis and this richness of flavour is there on the start of the palate. There are fresher fruits in the middle a touch of bilberry and then towards the back the fruit dries and the finish just lacks fruit depth. It needs drinking whilst the fruit richness is there. Tasted at Dyers Hall July 2013 92 2013-19 There is a nice weight and richness of fruit on the nose and lots of black fruits on the palate. The weight of fruit the richness of flavour is underpinned by fresher flavours that give a lighter feel on the back palate yet there is good length of flavour. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-19 Tasted at Leathersellers May 2014 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn November 2014 92 2016-26 Tasted at Leathersellers November 2015 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn April 2016 91 2017-26 Tasted in Leathersellers Hall November 2016 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 22
BORDEAUX 2004 August 20, 2012 The nose has a mix of fragrances with black fruits tending to dominate. Behind the mid freshness black cherry gives a richer feel yet there are fresher fruits at the back giving a lighter feel to the finish. Château Léoville Barton 2eme Cru 88-93 2010-22 It is more muscular, more masculine than Langoa. There is a good depth of dark fruits, bilberry and cassis on the nose, with more mulberry coming through on the palate, the oak is very evident, spicy, but not overdone, as it blends in well with the ripe fruit tannins. The length and intensity are excellent. 93 2010-22 Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 93 2011-28 The nose has depth of flavour, real power of fruit. The black fruits that show on the nose are there on the palate, blackcurrant and sloe backed by some fresher bilberry but the mix enriched by dark chocolate and liquorice. The flavours are long and the mix wonderfully complex. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 91 2014-24 Tasted at the Château May 2016 The nose has depth the palate richness layers of black fruits the firmer black cherry underpinned by sweeter black plum and liquorice. Fresher fruits show at the back a hint of cedar wood adding complexity and although leaner on the finish there is a strong cassis influence. Château Léoville Las Cases 2eme Cru 91-95 2010-35 It has intensity of colour, aroma and structure. It is dense, sweet fruited and very ripe, with great acidity, big, but very ripe tannins and great length of raspberry fruit. It is truly great, rich and powerful with concentration yet at the same time, real elegance, finesse. It will go on emerging for a long time and the plateau will then stretch into the distance. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 92 2014-28 Intense with black fruits both nose and palate has depth and fruit richness. The sweet mid palate the liquorice and dark chocolate are underpinned by freshness a bramble and bilberry mix. The back palate is lighter fresher quite elegant yet the finish has depth and richness. Château Léoville Poyferré 2eme Cru 87-91 2010-22 It is lighter in style (than the other two Léoville estates), it has an attractive fresh fruit nose with a certain intensity. There is very good dark berry fruit concentration on the palate. It is rounded on mid-palate with both tannin and acidity adding some structure. Oak is there but not at all obvious. 23 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 20, 2012 BORDEAUX 2004 91 2010-20 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2007 88 2010-18 The fruit on the nose feels sweet but the palate is very firm and the tannins just a touch green rather drying the fruit and shortening the finish Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2011-20 Although the nose is quite light and appealingly fragrant it misleads as the palate is packed with rich black fruits. Dark berried concentration is supported by tannin but the fruit is ripe and rounded and gives a lovely rich feel towards the back. Tasted at Farr Vintners February 2014 90 2014-22 The fruit on the nose has sweetness yet there are attractive fragrances. The start of the palate has depth concentration the richer fruit backed by freshness. Chocolate at the back adds to the richness with nice sweet black fruits on the finish. Château Moulin Riche 86-90 2007-10 2 nd wine of Château Léoville-Poyferre It has charm and seems one for early-drinking. The nose has flowery fruit perfumes, seemingly quite discreet. Blackcurrant is the predominant fruit and gentle tannins do not dominate. It's soft, ripe and easy-going in style. La Réserve de Léoville 92 2011-20 2 2 nd wine of Château Léoville Barton Tasted in Lilley December 2010 The black fruit mix has a lovely richness all very cassis dominated. The rounded supple tannins give a lovely velvety smoothness on the palate. There are layers of flavour towards the back lots of blackcurrant and black cherry refreshed by blueberries. Château Saint Pierre 4eme Cru 89-93 2010-25 The nose is full of bright black fruits with some spice oak showing. The flavours are ripe and dense, just a bit syrupy but as the tannins are firm but ripe and there is some fresh acidity, there is enough bite for good balance. It is a very well-made wine and has good length. Tasted in London at the MW Tasting November 2008 92 2011-22 The richness of the black fruits is spiced up by some toasty oak. It feels ripe with lush cassis and chocolate but this sweetness is nicely balanced by raspberry and cherry freshness. Liquorice and dark chocolate give flesh to the finish. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 24