CRAFT + ESTATE PRESENTS 2017 Selected and Imported by Winebow, Inc., New York, NY Photographs by Domain Michel Magnien Map courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com Location: Morey-Saint-Denis Grape Variety: Pinot Noir Domaine Michel Magnien has evolved into a Burgundy producer of a singular style and philosophy in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Michel Magnien was born in 1946 and worked alongside his father Bernard from an early age. The Magniens sold their grapes to the local cooperative until 1993 when his son Frédéric joined the family business and persuaded his father to bottle the entire harvest themselves. Frédéric Magnien began experimenting with organic practices in the late 1990s and the entire production was certified biodynamic by Demeter in 2015. BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE In both organic and biodynamic viticulture, no chemical inputs are used in the vineyard. In organic viticulture, chemicals such as herbicides and pesticides are forbidden. The philosophy behind biodynamic methods is to revive the soils through holistic means. Biodynamics strengthens the vitality and resistance of plants by improving the natural exchanges between soil and the roots, and between sky and the plant. This is accomplished in two ways: the use of specific preparations in the vineyard and the consideration of moon phases. There are nine biodynamic preparations in all, made from herbs, minerals, and animal manure. The preparations are added to field sprays and compost in minute doses, much like homeopathic remedies are for humans. Timely applications revitalize the soil and stimulate root growth, enhance the development of microorganisms and humus formation, and aid in photosynthetic activity. The cosmic phase of biodynamic viticulture allows the plant to strengthen and to energize itself thanks to natural force rather than working against nature. The moon strongly influences the way sap runs through the vine and brings rhythm to each step of Frédéric s decisions during the wine-growing cycle. Frédéric believes his biodynamic approach allows him to achieve the maximum expression of his Côte de Nuits terroirs.
Frédéric is particularly fond of Morey-Saint- Denis Les Chaffots, a premier cru that sits above the grand cru of Clos-Saint-Denis VINEYARD LOCATION Most of Domaine Michel Magnien s 45 acres of vineyard are found in Morey-Saint-Denis with additional holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vosne-Romanée. Morey-Saint-Denis is located in Burgundy s Côte de Nuits, with Gevrey-Chambertin to its north and Chambolle-Musigny to its south. The village lays claim to four grand crus in their entirety and a small piece of a fifth grand cru shared with its neighbor Chambolle-Musigny. The domaine has several premier cru and grand cru holdings spread throughout the Côte de Nuits. Frédéric is particularly fond of Morey- Saint-Denis Les Chaffots, a premier cru that sits above the grand cru of Clos-Saint-Denis where vines grow in steep and rocky soil. Michel Magnien s grandfather, Bernard, acquired several old parcels within this 2.62-hectare vineyard where Frédéric maintains old vines and enjoys the site s elegance and fragrance. spicy exotic notes of the wine with aromas and flavors that are often described as herbal, floral, tea-like, and earthy. Frédéric also says that including stems provide the added benefit of absorbing alcohol and bringing greater freshness, culminating in wines of purity and elegance. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation are spontaneous. Frédéric admits to having used too much new oak for aging his wines in the past. This began to change with the 2012 vintage when he began to dramatically reduce the number of new barrels in the cellar. As of the 2015 vintage, no new oak has been used at Domaine Michel Magnien and Frédéric now ages part of the production in small clay jars with the goal of eliminating any taste of wood in the wines. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. WINEMAKING At harvest, Pinot Noir is partially destemmed at various percentages depending on the site and vintage. I use very ripe stems and the stems should integrate into the wine, said Frédéric. The inclusion of stems in the fermentation vat, also referred to as whole-bunch or whole-cluster fermentation, was once standard practice before destemming machines were introduced in the 1920s. The destemming machine, which steadily gained in popularity over the ensuing decades, removed under-ripe stems that contributed green flavors as well as rough tannins. By the 1990s, complete removal of stems from the grapes before fermentation had become de rigueur in Burgundy for all but a few traditionally-minded producers. But with warmer vintages, improved winegrowing, and generally riper stems, some Burgundians are choosing to include a percentage of stems in their fermentations. Frédéric states several positives to using between 20% and 50% stems depending on the site and vintage. The inclusion of stems can bring
WINES COTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS Coteaux Bourguignons replaced the old appellation of Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire in 2011 and allows for the blending of all Burgundian varieties and regions. Domaine Michel Magnien s Coteaux Bourguignons comes from various terroirs in the Côte de Nuits and is made exclusively from Pinot Noir. Aged in a combination of cement vats and used Burgundian Pièce. BOURGOGNE ROUGE Bourgogne Rouge comes from regional and village-level vineyards spread across the Côte de Nuits and are from vines planted by Frédéric s grandfather with an average vine age of 50 years. Around 20% whole clusters were included in the cuvée. The wine was vinified in half concrete and half used Burgundian pièce. FIXIN Fixin is a quiet village sitting at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, just a short half-hour drive from the center of Dijon. Michel Magnien s Fixin comes from two vineyards on the east-facing mid-slope, one on the border of Couchey, the other on the border of Brochon. The wine was aged entirely in used Burgundian pièce. MOREY-SAINT-DENIS Morey-Saint-Denis is a cuvée of four vineyards that lie near the D974, Clos Solon, Chenevery, Les Crais, and Les Cognées. Most of these sites have heavier soils without stones which Frédéric believes results in less structure but a more generously textured palate. The wine was aged entirely in used, Burgundian pièce.
CRAFT + ESTATE PRESENTS MOREY-SAINT-DENIS TRÈS GIRARD Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard is a lieu-dit lying above the D974 surrounding the small cemetery of Morey-Saint-Denis. The name comes from a Mr. Girard de Fropiac, the owner of this climat two centuries ago. The soil is composed of limestone marl with white pebbles and a high percentage of clay which gives this wine weight and richness. Aged in a combination of used pièce GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES SEUVRÉES Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées is a lieu-dit lying below the D974 directly below the Grand Cru of Charmes-Chambertin. Seuvrées comes from the Latin separatas and was named because the plot is separated by the borders of Gevrey and Morey. It is from clay-limestone soils with round stones of varying sizes. Aged in a CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY FREMIÈRES Chambolle-Musigny Fremières is a lieu-dit lying below the premier crus on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the village. The wines from this area tend to have more structure and muscle than typical of Chambolle, but still show the perfume and spice common to this commune. Aged in a combination of used pièce CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES ARGILLIÈRES Chambolle-Musigny Les Argillières is a lieu-dit lying directly above and to the north of grand cru Le Musigny. The wines from Les Argillières tend to be very perfumed and finessed thanks to the soil consisting of active limestone mixed with clay. Aged in a combination of used oak VOSNE-ROMANÉE VIEILLES VIGNES Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes comes from two village-level climats lying just above the D974 and planted in 1902 and 1920. The soils are calcareous marl and clay. The wine is a pure expression of its terroir thanks to its élevage in a combination of used oak CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY SENTIERS 1ER CRU Chambolle-Musigny Sentiers 1er Cru lies directly below the Grand Cru of Bonnes-Mares on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the village. The name Sentiers refers to a path near the vineyard that leads to Clos de Vougeot, and is from a plot purchased by Frédéric s grandfather Bernard in 1967. Aged in a
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS CHAFFOTS 1ER CRU Morey-Saint-Denis Chaffots 1er Cru sits above the grand crus of Clos-Saint-Denis where vines grow in steep and rocky soil. The name Les Chaffots comes from the word échafaud or scaffold, possibly a place where executions took place. Aged in a Les Chaffot s higher elevation results in a wine with bright acidity and a leaner profile than Clos-Saint-Denis which sits below it. The vineyard s soil is like that of Clos de la Roche, and its rocky terroir delivers a slightly austere wine with a strong mineral backbone. (An important wine for Fred). GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CAZETIERS 1ER CRU Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers 1er Cru borders Clos-Saint- Jacques on the combe (a small valley) that lies behind the village. Vineyards on the combe benefit from cool air drawn down from the forest above it and some of the premier crus here can be exceptional. Cazetiers is a steep, east-facing site with rocky marl soil and tends to produce sturdy and robust wines. Old vines, the oldest of which are 90-years-old. Aged in a combination of used pièce CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru sits below Chambertin and includes the climat of Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru within its borders, a section of which reaches down to the D974. Magnien s parcel is in Mazoyères, which can be bottled as Charmes. The name charmes likely derives from champs, and means field or meadow. Its gentle slope of decayed limestone has an abundance of gravel and stones, allowing the vines to grow deep. Magnien s parcel was planted in 1953 and 1955. Aged in a CLOS-SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru is the namesake vineyard of the village of Morey and lies adjacent to Clos de la Roche. The vineyard is planted on clay-limestone soil with a mixture of iron oxide, and gives the most finesse and delicacy of Morey s five grand crus. Aged in a CLOS DE LA ROCHE GRAND CRU Clos de la Roche Grand Cru gives the biggest and most structured wine of Morey-Saint-Denis five grand crus thanks to its meager top soil and limestone bedrock. The vines here are in contact with the rock, resulting in a muscular wine with intense flavors of fruit and minerals. Aged in a combination of used pièce