BONNEAU DU MARTRAY 2012 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR We think that 2012 will be revealed as a great year. JEAN-CHARLES LE BAULT DE LA MORINIERE 2012 is indeed a wonderful year but produced at an almost unbelievable cost. A yield of 9.74 hl/hectare for the Corton-Charlemagne against the average 30-35 and 4.3 hl/hectare against 25 30 necessitated lively negotiation with Jean-Charles in order to make any sort of en primeur offer at all. It is a tribute to you, our UK customers that an allocation is now offered where the perfectly reasonable temptation was for the Domaine to wait for bottling, for an even more accurate judgement of the wines quality, and for higher margins on sales that would result. For our part we agreed to offer, for the first time the Corton-Charlemagne and Corton in six and three bottle cases respectively in an attempt to meet at least some of the demand for two lovely wines. The tasting notes say it all of course or at least try to. I was repeatedly struck by the apparent disconnect between the profound quality of the wine set against the terrible attrition of the growing season. Repeated frosts in spring and even in May, hail in April, a difficult flowering and hail again in June with significant coulure (poor set fruit) and frequently rampant mildew were the main ingredients of this turbulent year to which may be added rainstorms and occasionally tropical heat, particularly in June. Nevertheless, and as we have seen before, nature s capriciousness in reminding us of the frailties of its existence occasionally offers a consolation. This was deployed to full effect in August and September. Growers have long maintained that Août fait le moût August makes the must or wine and the beautiful conditions that finally emerged at this time unquestionably saved and made the vintage. It was precisely because of the tiny crop that such quality was finally realised. A heavier load and higher yield would have had a cat s chance in hell of ripening properly but the almost perfect conditions with average temperatures of 15.8 C (60.4 F) and 34 C (93.2 F) in the mornings and afternoons respectively - brought about a magical change. Hail scars healed, sugars soared and a beautiful, healthy, tiny crop was brought in between the 21 st and 25 th September with just one day, the 25 th, of rain. Here, a combination of a fresh wind and the use of a helicopter eliminated any moisture in the grapes. Jean-Charles noted in his diary that Les rendements sont si faibles que l on peut dire que c est une situation que le Domaine n a jamais connu depuis 40 ans. Au final, nous avons rentré le quart d une récolte normale de Corton-Charlemagne seulement, et un peu plus du dixième de celle de Corton. The yields are so feeble that we can say that this is a situation which the Domaine has not experienced for 40 years. In the end we brought in only a quarter of a normal crop for Corton- Charlemagne and just a tenth for Corton. For Corton-Charlemagne, primary fermentations in oak were classic and straightforward. Secondary or malolactic fermentations (where the spikier malic acids convert into creamier lactic acids) were long. The Domaine never heats its cellars to accelerate this process and the naturally cold conditions allowed this vital change to occur slowly and it continued until November 2013. I suspect this has
resulted in the extraordinary complexity of the finished wine. As I write the red Corton is just completing its malolactics, which promises even more than our December tasting suggests. ADAM BRETT-SMITH January 2014 RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES We are regularly asked for more specific drinking dates for white burgundies, in particular the great Domaines. Here, therefore, are specific recommendations of drinking dates for every vintage. Of course taste is an extremely personal thing but having tasted and analysed these wines extensively over the last few years, we absolutely believe that opening these wines at the dates indicated will ensure maximum enjoyment. Revised Drinking Dates: VINTAGE CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE CORTON 2000 Now Now 2001 Now Now 2002 Now Now 2003 Now Now 2004 Now Now 2015 2005 Now Now 2020 2006 Now 2014 2017 2007 2014 2018 Now 2015 2008 2014 2017 2014 2018 2009 2014 2019 See Below 2010 See Below See Below 2011 See Below See Below Original Drinking Dates: VINTAGE CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE CORTON 2000 2006 2005 2001 2005/6 2005 2002 2008 2006 2003 2007 2008 2004 Now Now 2005 2015 Now 2006 2014 2014 2007 Now 2015 2013 2015 2008 2014 2017 2014 2020 2009 2014 2018 2014 2020 2010 2017 2020 2018 2025 2011 2016 2022 2016 2019
TASTING NOTES CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2012 Pale but firm green gold colour. The nose is quite beautiful with an intense ripe, creamy perfume but zesty and incredibly pointed and pure at the same time. The palate is concentrated, taut, high tensile, white-fruited, subliminally rich but intricate, apparently weightless but also profound. Great length and superb balance. This wine dances beautifully and will become a great bottle. CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 18-19 (RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2017 2020) 475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 480/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Due to minute yields, we sadly have to limit orders to a maximum of 6 bottles or equivalent. Please speak to your contact asap. CORTON GRAND CRU 2012 As we noted in the introduction, the malolactic fermentation was approaching completion in December 2013 and our note reflects this. Firm ruby in colour, the nose is intensely, darkly perfumed with red and black fruits, very pure and just touched by oak. The palate is elegantly rich, full flavoured, well structured, still a little sweet but of fine length and intensity. A wonderful Corton in the making, our score is therefore very provisional. CORNEY & BARROW SCORE 17.5-18 (RECOMMENDED DRINKING FROM 2017 2021) 237.50/CASE OF 3 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK Due to minute yields, we sadly have to allocate this wine. The maximum, where possible, will be 3 bottles. TASTING GUIDE Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. 14-16 A VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT WINE 16-18 AN EXCELLENT TO OUTSTANDING WINE 18-20 AN OUTSTANDING TO LEGENDARY WINE Wines are judged within their peer group, eg. Villages, Premier Cru, Grand Cru. A definitive score of a young wine is almost impossible. We usually offer a spread (eg. 14-16) that relates to a potential to achieve a higher mark. A + adds further to that potential. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes.
TO ORDER PLEASE CALL 020 7265 2430 LONDON 01638 600 000 EAST ANGLIA 01748 828 640 NORTH OF ENGLAND 01875 321 921 EDINBURGH OR EMAIL SALES@CORNEYANDBARROW.COM FOOTNOTE: Andrew Jefford is to my mind the finest wine writer of all. It is not because I agree with what he writes in fact I frequently disagree quite strongly but because he offers an effortless, poetic prose that gets to the heart of his subject. With his kind permission I have attached a taste of his work in this case on Burgundy, Montrachet and Bonneau du Martray in particular a lesser vintage perhaps but as compelling a piece of prose as I can think of. I thought it would interest you and I am grateful to Andrew to allow us to share it with you. I rather wish I had written it.
ISSUE 30 2010