Germany Wineries A-H By Derek Smedley MW Last Updated 11/10/2017 Derek Smedley MW, Rectory Cottage, Lilley, Hertfordshire, LU2 8LU. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Tasting notes from the following growers: Contents Weingut Acham-Magin... 5 Pfalz... 5 Weingut Allendorf... 5 Rheingau... 5 Weingut Balthasar Ress... 6 Rheingau... 6 Dr von Bassermann-Jordan... 6 Pfalz... 6 Emil Bauer & Söhne... 6 Pfalz... 6 Friedrich Becker... 7 Pfalz... 7 Bercher... 7 Baden... 7 Bickensohler... 7 Baden... 7 J Brader... 8 Rheinhessen... 8 Bürgerspital zum HL Geist... 8 Franken... 8 Weingut Dr Bürklin-Wolf... 8 Pfalz... 8 Weingut Chat Sauvage... 9 Rheingau... 9 A Christmann... 9 Pfalz... 9 Dr Crusius... 11 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 2
GERMANY August 02, 2012 Nahe... 11 Diel Estate... 11 Nahe... 11 Weingut Dönnhoff... 12 Nahe... 12 Weingut Dreissigacker... 13 Rheinhessen... 13 Weingut Emrich-Schönleber... 13 Nahe... 13 Goettelmann... 13 Nahe... 13 Weingut Gunderloch... 14 Rheinhessen... 14 Weingut Fritz Haag... 14 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer... 14 Weingut Willi Haag... 15 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer... 15 Weingut Hauth... 15 Mosel... 15 Dr Heger... 15 Baden... 15 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein... 16 Mosel... 16 Weingut Christian Hirsch... 17 Württemberg... 17 Weingut von Hövel... 17 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer... 17 3 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 4
GERMANY August 02, 2012 Germany Wineries A - H Tasted at the German Tasting London June 2007 Tasted on other occasions - see date and place in italics Growers / Wineries are in alphabetical order with area underneath Weingut Acham-Magin Forst am Der Weinstrasse Pfalz Forst Pechstein Riesling GG 2016 92 2018-24 The nose is light with white flowers the palate fragrant with flinty freshness. Pear and pineapple in the middle there is sweetness the finish has richness and depth. Weingut Allendorf Oestrich-Winkel Rheingau Rheingau Riesling 2013 86 2014-16 Crisp and scented on the nose the palate is very fresh high mid acidity with a mix of lime and green apple. It finishes quite hard and short. Red Wines Rheingau Dornfelder Trocken 2012 85 2014-17 The fruit on the nose is rich black cherry but firm and the palate hard and dry at the start. There is some mid sweetness but the tannins are very apparent at the back tending to dry and give dustiness on the finish. 5 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Weingut Balthasar Ress Eltville am Rhein Rheingau Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling GG 2016 93 2018-24 The nose has depth rich ripe fruit the palate apricots and tropical fruits. Underlying citrus refreshes gives balance the layers of fruit add to the complexity and it finishes with depth of flavour. Dr von Bassermann-Jordan Deidesheim Pfalz Estate Riesling Qba 2009 90 2011-14 Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The crispness of lime and apple feature on the nose and is there on the palate. There are some slightly sweeter flavours but the finish is fresh and quite dry. Forst Pechstein Riesling GG 2016 93 2018-24 The nose has a mix of fragrances white flowers may blossom the start of the palate herbal and bright. There is mid sweetness peachy a hint of apricot with depth of fruit on the finish. Emil Bauer & Söhne Pfalz Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll Riesling 2013 91 2015-19 Tasted at the SITT tasting London February 2015 Sweet ripe fruit the nose is rich the start of the palate has lots of white peach. Fresher at the back citrusy, herbaceous the finish is racy, mineral with good length. Bullshit Grauburgunder 2013 92 2015-19 Tasted at the SITT tasting London February 2015 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 6
GERMANY August 02, 2012 Rich peach and ripe apricot gives depth on the nose and a sweet start to the palate. Citrus underpins the mid palate lighter and fresh but at the back ripe tropical fruits give a rich feel and there is depth of flavour on the finish. Friedrich Becker Schweigen Pfalz Red Wines Spätburgunder B 2008 87 2011-14 Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The nose has lots of fresh red fruits light but fragrant. The palate lacks depth is very fresh fruited with a high acidity rather overtaking the fruit on the finish. Bercher Vogtsburg-Burkheim Baden Berchers Chardonnay Spätlese 2009 90 2011-14 Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The nose is very greengage in character quite rich and full. Behind the powerful flavours this is some freshness from the lime that features strongly. The back palate has good weight of flavour with the fruit lingering on the finish. Red Wines Limberger V111 Dry 2008 89 2011-15 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Lemberger Pinot Noir Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 There are attractive floral notes about the nose with a lovely mix of fruits on the palate. Cassis is there at the start quite rich but the mid palate is fresher although still quite black fruited. The layers of flavour on the back palate give complexity. Bickensohler Baden Sparkling Wines Sekt NV 88 7 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Weisser Burgunder 100% Tasted on Board Sea Cloud August 2014 White flowers fresh the start of the palate is crisp the mid palate has slightly more depth more of a grapefruit flavour. Fresh at the back the finish is long with a nice persistent mousse. J Brader Rheinhessen Brader Nierstein Gutes Domtal 2009 87 2012-14 Tasted in Lilley October 2012 The nose has a lovely mix of white peach and tropical fruits giving it richness. The fruit on the palate is quite sweet some ripe pear yet there is under the sweeter fruit apple that balances and refreshes and it is this mix of freshness yet sweetness that makes it a Jack of all Trades a great partner to fish and meat. Bürgerspital zum HL Geist Würzburg Franken Würzburg Stein Hagemann Riesling GG 2016 92 2018-23 Fresh fruits floral mineral the nose is light and bright the palate starts with racy freshness. There is some sweetness on the mid palate but the fresh fruit there is flint and mineral at the back the finish is lean and taut. Weingut Dr Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheim Pfalz Dr Bürklin-Wolf Riesling 2013 92 2014-18 Mineral slate citrus the nose is very fresh and the start of the palate is lean. There is a little more depth in the middle a mix of tropical fruits but at the back the slate and mineral dominate refresh and give a racy freshness. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 8
GERMANY August 02, 2012 Wachenheim Rechbächel 2012 P C 93 2015-22 Riesling 100% Rich fruit the nose has depth and the palate is full of ripe tropical fruits supported and refreshed by apple and lime. Layers of flavour give complexity the citrusy freshness underpinned by the richer fruit with slate and mineral at the back bringing out some spice. Gaisböhl Ruppertsberg 2012 G C 93 2015-22 Riesling 100% Tasted at Dyers Hall July 2014 The fruit is sweet and ripe both nose and palate full of flavour. Peachy tropical fruited the start of the palate has fleshy richness but there is enough freshness enough grapefruit and flint to balance lighten the back palate and give graceful elegance on the finish. Pechstein Auslese Forst 1998 R 97 2014-24 Riesling 100% It is luscious sumptuous a mass of rich fruits dried fruits, apricots some candied peel The rich ripe tropical fruits on the mid palate are underpinned by freshness a lovely balance the mix of flavours lingering on the long spicy peppery finish. Weingut Chat Sauvage Johannisberg Rheingau Red Wines Spätburgunder Johannisberg 2011 93 2014-22 Sweet on the nose the palate has the richness of ripe black fruits. There is a good balance between bramble and mulberry the rounded tannins adding to the mid suppleness sweet fruited at the back yet with enough freshness to lighten and balance. A Christmann Gimmeldingen Pfalz 9 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Pfalz Riesling 2010 86 2011-14 Tasted at the Travellers Club London May 2011 The nose is fat and full slightly rustic and although there is fruit at the start of the palate the mid palate is a bit hollow. Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2011 87 2012-15 Tasted at the Travellers Club London May 2012 The nose is light with a fragrant charm. There is some attractive fruit on the palate but it lacks a bit of depth with a mineral crispness on the finish. Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2012 88 2013-18 Tasted at Charles Taylor September 2013 Rich ripe apricot gives a fleshy feel to the nose and although the palate starts with ripe fleshy fruit the mid palate is fresher with hints of lime. It fills out at the back with a mix of sweet tropical fruits. Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2014 88 2015-20 Tasted at Charles Taylor s tasting April 2015 Sweet on the nose apricot and peach give a rich start to the palate the fruit mix giving complexity. Citrus underpins the back palate lighter and fresh the finish floral and fragrant. Ruppertsberg Riesling 2010 89 2012-17 Tasted at the Travellers Club London May 2011 There is a lot of rich fruit on the nose the sweetness balanced by some underlying freshness. Rich tropical fruit with a touch of apricot gives flesh on the palate but there is enough acidity to balance the richness. Ruppertsberg Riesling Trocken 2011 88 2012-16 Tasted at the Travellers Club London May 2012 Although the nose has some tropical fruits the palate is light fresh with apple tending to dominate. There is a little more weight towards the back but it is just lacking in real complexity. Ruppertsburg Riesling Trocken 2014 90 2015-20 Tasted at Charles Taylor s tasting April 2015 The nose has a rich mix of fruits the palate fleshy and sweet ripe apricots and tropical fruits yet there is enough underlying citrus to balance. Sweet fruit shows at the back and it finishes with a nice depth of flavour. Ruppertsbergr Linsenbusch Riesling Trocken 2010 87 2012-15 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn May 2012 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 10
GERMANY August 02, 2012 The nose is full fat very apricot in character. There is some mid freshness but a lack of complexity a slight hollow and it finishes short slightly metallic. Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad-Hofstück Riesling GG 2016 92 2018-24 Floral white fruits the nose is light and fresh the palate starts with a citrus flinty mix. Richer in the middle the tropical fruits are backed by white peach and although there is sweetness on the back palate the finish is lean and light. Königsbach Idig Riesling GG 2016 90 2018-23 The nose is bright and fresh the palate has citrus and apple quite lean and light. There is a touch of sweetness with fresh fruit the lime and lemon dominating the back palate and finish. Gimmeldingen Biengarten Riesling 2010 88 2012-17 Tasted at the Travellers Club London May 2011 It is very fresh on the nose the lime tending to dominate the rather sweeter tropical fruit and peach. The palate is light and fresh with some attractive fragrances showing towards the back. Gimmeldingen Meerspinne im Mandelgarten Rielsing GG 2016 90 2018-23 Peachy and ripe the nose depth the palate rich fruit a mix of tropical fruits and apricot. There is a balancing freshness leaner towards the back but it fills out on the finish with rich fruit ripe and sweet. Dr Crusius Traisen Nahe Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg Riesling GG 2016 90 2018-23 The fruit is ripe the nose has depth and the start of the palate the sweetness of ripe topical fruits. There is underpinning freshness the back palate lean with flinty citrus on the finish. Diel Estate Burglayen Nahe 11 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Eiswein 2003 93 2010-18 Tasted at the O W Loeb tasting London September 2010 There is a fresh fragrant charm on the nose and a lovely mix of fruits on the palate. It feels rich and sweet but as there is an underlying freshness it is not over sweet. The fruit lingers on the long finish. Perhaps it is in the mind but it feels cold!! Weingut Dönnhoff Oberhausen Nahe Niederhäusen Hermannshöhle Riesling Spatlese 2004 96 2011-16 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2011 The nose is peachy and rich with on the palate the freshness of grapefruit. There are lots of powerful flavours, a lovely bitter sweet character richness, sweetness yet freshness a combination of flavours that gives an exotic sensuous finish. Niederhäusen Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese 2006 91 Both nose and palate have rich ripe grapefruit all quite lush but well balanced by mid freshness and some mineral flint. Lots of grapefruit and lime flesh out the finish. Oberhäus Brücke Riesling Spätlese 2006 89 It has a heavy, slightly vegetal nose. The palate has depth and the flavours seem fresher with lime and apple coming through and adding some complexity. Oberhäus Brücke Riesling Beerenauslese 2006 92 The nose has depth, lots of herbal lime and grapefruit. Although sweet on the palate it is lacking the lushness at the moment. Needs time to flesh out but the fruit intensity is there somewhat hidden away. Oberhäus Liestenberg Riesling Kabinett 2006 87 The nose is very fat and heavy. The palate is broad and the fruit slightly formless, lacking a crisp backbone. Sweet greengage and grapefruit flesh out the finish but lacks real length. Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Riesling GG 2016 91 2018-23 Herbal fresh fruits the nose has fair depth the palate mid sweetness. Tangerine at the back fresh fruits there is a hint of sweetness on the finish. Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese 2006 89 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 12
GERMANY August 02, 2012 The nose is broad, full of sweet fruit and whilst there is weight and ripeness on the palate, there is a crisp backbone that tends to lift the fruit and add to the length. Weingut Dreissigacker Bechtheim Rheinhessen Organic Rheinhessen Estate Riesling 2014 90 2016-20 Tasted at the Royal College of Physicians June 2016 Apricot richness on the nose the palate has breadth of flavour rich in the middle but lighter at the back with a citrus mix. The finish is light fragrant just a hint of sweetness. Weingut Emrich-Schönleber Monzingen Nahe Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling GG 2016 89 2018-23 The nose has leafy freshness the start of the palate bright with lime and apple. A hint of sweetness at the back gives way to flinty freshness on the finish. Goettelmann Münster-Sarmsheim Nahe Münster Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett 2007 89 2011-13 Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The nose is quite sweet with a mix of tropical fruits. The off dry style comes through on the palate quite lush in the middle but there is an underlying freshness helping to balance. The sweetness does though tend to hide the true fragrances. Rheinberg Riesling Auslese 2009 Stardust 92 2011-16 Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The mix of peach and apricot is sweet and ripe giving richness to both nose and palate. Under the lush fruit there is some freshness that helps to balance. The finish is very fleshy and ripe. 13 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Weingut Gunderloch Nackenheim Rheinhessen Neirstein Hipping Riesling GG 2016 93 2018-24 The fruit on the nose is sweet the palate has rich fruit a yellow peach apricot mix. Flinty freshness in the middle there is a hint of citrus fuller at the back with rich fruit on the finish. Weingut Fritz Haag Brauneberg Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2006 88 There is a sweet feel to the nose but lighter crisper fruit show on the palate. It just lacks a little depth. Braunberg Riesling Kabinett 2014 90 2017-19 Tasted in Mercers Hall November 2017 Fragrant and fresh the nose has may blossom the fruit on the palate is sweeter white peach hints of tropical fruits. There is balance with underlying citrus refreshing the back palate quite light and fragrant with sweeter flavours giving richness on the finish. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2006 89 The nose has richness, white peach intermingled with lime. It is sweet and ripe on the palate with freshness towards the back. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2006 91 The nose has weight of fruit and depth of flavour. The sweetness is well balanced by some lovely mineral and lime and then sweet white peach fills out the back palate. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Cap 2006 92 The nose has richness and depth of sweet fruit. The palate has the fleshiness of white peach refreshed in the middle by lime acidity. There is very good length of fruit but time is really needed. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 2006 93 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 14
GERMANY August 02, 2012 The fruit is ripe, a powerful mix of greengage and white peach underpinned by fresh mineral lime. There is a lovely power of sweet fruit on the palate backed by a freshness that lifts and lengthens the flavours. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Füder 10 2009 91 2013-17 Tasted at Lincoln s Inn October 2013 The nose has some sweet fruit with a nice depth of flavour. On the palate ripe greengage and apricot enrich but under the sweetness citrus refreshes and gives a lighter feel to the finish. Weingut Willi Haag Brauneberg Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2006 89 There is a good weight of ripe fruit which on the nose with crisper flavours on the mid palate and lovely fragrant end. Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2006 90 The grapefruit flavours have richness and sweetness and are well balanced by mid freshness. The fruit lasts well on the back palate. Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Auslese 2006 91 Rich and ripe, the grapefruit has a backing of white peach. Nice balance of ripe fruit and freshness. Weingut Hauth Bernkastel-Keus Mosel Riesling Trocken 2013 88 2014-17 The mix of lime and lemon is very fresh the start of the palate light and crisp. There is a slightly sweeter feel on the mid palate but it finishes light with apple and citrus freshness. Dr Heger Ihringen Baden 15 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley
August 02, 2012 GERMANY Ihringern inkleberg Grauburgunder Grand Cru 2009 91 2011-14 (Pinot Gris) Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 The nose has a smoky flinty character backed by fresh limes. The mix of tropical fruits that features on the mid palate is sweeter, richer but there is a mineral shale backbone that underpins bringing out the floral character of the finish. Red Wines Achkarren Schlossburg Spätburgunder 2005 87 2011-13 Grand Cru Barrique Tasted at the Wine Barn tasting London February 2011 It is light fresh with red fruits in evidence. The mid palate has high acidity and this rather takes over and holds back the fruit sweetness. Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Winningen Mosel Kirchberg 2012 89 2016-20 Tasted in Innholders Hall February 2016 Rich and ripe on the nose the start of the palate has sweet apricot. There is mid freshness but the back palate has the sweetness of peach the richness of pear and the finish lacks a bit of freshness. Hatzenport Stolzenberg Riesling GG 2016 90 2018-21 The nose is floral and fresh the palate bright and citrusy. Pineapple in the middle gives a little more depth but it finishes with mineral and citrus firmness. Winningen Röttgen Riesling 2016 GG 90 2018-22 The nose has depth the palate grapey richness the fruit quite sweet. Citrus freshness in the middle but there is rich ripe fruit at the back and sweetness on the finish. Winningen Uhlen Blaufüsser Lay Riesling GG 2016 90 2018-21 There is breadth of fruit both on nose and palate mid richness and sweetness. The back palate is light the finish fuller with ripe grapefruit. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk Master of Wine: Derek Smedley 16
GERMANY August 02, 2012 Winningen Uhlen Laubach Riesling GG 2016 91 2018-23 The nose has herbal excitement the start of the palate fresh with slate and citrus. Sweet in the middle the back palate and finish have rich fruit and breadth of flavour Weingut Christian Hirsch Leingarten Württemberg Rosé Wines Saignée Rosé 2013 91 2014-16 Lemberger 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% The nose has a red fruited mix the richer wild strawberry backed by redcurrant. Fresh at the start of the palate there is mid sweetness with the red fruited freshness giving a lighter racier feel to the finish. Weingut von Hövel Kinz-Oberemmel Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett 2006 88 The sweet fruit on the nose feels ripe. It is fresher mid palate with lime grapefruit which last well. Oberemmel Hütte Riesling Spätlese 2006 88 The nose is full of ripe fruit all quite fleshy. It feels sweet on the palate but there is freshness to balance and lighten finish. Oberemmel Hütte Riesling Auslese 2006 89 There is lots of rich, ripe, greengage and grapefruit on the nose. The palate has weight of fruit with freshness on the finish. Derek Smedley MW 17 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley Master of Wine: Derek Smedley