The International Wine Review Featured Monthly Tastings February 2008---Selections From Quality Wines Of Spain Quality Wines of Spain is a relatively new importer of outstanding wine from all the regions of Spain. It is owned and operated by Florencio Navarro, a Spanish entrepreneur with real talent for identifying up and coming wineries. Its portfolio known as The Artisan Collection is notable for its overall quality and the selection of producers who follow ecologically sound vineyard practices and modern winemaking techniques. The Artisan Collection also consists of a wide range of good value wines, many from Spain s lesser known wine growing regions. The International Wine Review recently had the opportunity to taste through some of the new vintages and new releases from the Artisan Collection for our February 2008 Featured Monthly Tastings. In our opinion, taken together, the Artisan Collection of Quality Wines of Spain offers some of the best Spanish wine on the market today. Here are a few of the top-rated wines and good values. Complete tasting notes follow. Baigorri 2003 Reserva (92 points), the Baigorri 2003 Vino de Garaje (93 points), the Jalon 2005 Las Pizarras del Jalon (93 points), the Callejo 2005 Crianza (92 points), the outstanding Callejo 2004 Reserva (95 points), and the simply spectacular Callejo 2004 Felix Callejo Family Reserve (97 points). In addition to offering wines of exceptional quality, the Artisan Collection consists of a wide range of good value wines, many from the lesser known wine growing regions. Examples include Jalon 2006 Viña Alarba Old Vines Grenache ($10, 87 points), the Muñoz 2004 Legado Muñoz ($14, 89 points), the San Prudencio Cueto 2005 Envite Crianza ($18, 90 points), the Merum 2006 Old Vines Grenache/Syrah ($18, 91 points), and the Bodegas Real 2002 Palacio de Ibor ($22, 92 points), which is a standout both in terms of quality and value. Bodegas Altanza 2001 Altanza Reserva Seleccion Especial Rioja ($39) 88 This medium ruby wine of 40+ year old vines is aged 18 months in new French oak casks. It s honest and straightforward in style with a lovely cherry nose and dried cherry fruit flavors on the palate, complemented by a nice gripping finish. Importer: Quality Wines of Spain New York, NY
Bodegas Altanza 2005 Capitoso Rioja ($17) 87 Medium ruby garnet in color, this straightforward 100% Tempranillo wine from 30+ year old vines is medium ruby garnet in color with an attractive nose of cedar and sandalwood. The attack is soft and full of flavorful, pretty, tangy cherry fruit. Well-balanced with a long, soft finish. Bodegas Altanza 2004 Lealtanza Crianza Rioja ($22) 91 100% Tempranillo with 12 months in French and American oak, this medium dark ruby Rioja has aromas of herbs and cigar box and a nice soft attack of black and red fruit framed in spicy oak. Well-balanced with nice purity of flavor and a long, flavorful finish complemented by soft tannins. An extra year in bottle has improved this wine, and our score. Great value! Bodegas Altanza 2004 Lealtanza Reserva Spanish Artist Collection Rioja ($110) 92? A special Rioja, dark ruby opaque in color, made from 75+ year old vines, aged 18 months in Allier French oak, and displaying a nose of sweet oak with dark plum notes. Somewhat closed at this stage, it s still big and full on the palate with fresh and dried black fruit flavors and soft tannins on the finish. Judging from older vintages, this wine has a bright future. Baigorri 2005 Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Rioja ($40) 87 This 100% light to medium bodied Viura wine from 70+ year old vines is aged twelve months in new French oak. It has aromas of tropical fruit suffused with vanilla oak. The attack is very soft with predominantly warm vanilla flavors that carry through to the finish. Baigorri 2004 Crianza Rioja ($30) 88 Medium dark ruby in color and aged twelve months in new French oak casks, this traditionally crafted Rioja offers up lovely cherry and sandalwood aromas. Round and full on the palate with dark cherry fruit flavors and a dollop of spicy oak. Finishes long and fruity. Baigorri 2003 Reserva Rioja ($48) 92 An exceptional, rich and delicious modern wine of dark ruby color, aged 18 months in new French oak. The dark cherry and cigar box nose gives way to a big, soft attack of fruit and warm oak. The mouth feel is lush with ripe, concentrated dark plum fruit. Baigorri 2003 Vino de Garage Rioja ($95) 93 Made from 70+ year old, low-yielding vines and aged 18 months in new French oak, this dark ruby, medium-bodied, modern-styled wine has aromas of cigar box, sandalwood, and leather with red fruit notes. Silky and elegant on the palate with lovely black cherry and plum fruit beautifully married to expensive-tasting toasted oak. Finishes soft and long. Should continue to age nicely.
Callejo 2005 Crianza Ribera del Duero ($33) 92 Callejo is one of Ribera del Duero s top producers. This100% Tempranillo is from non-irrigated 35+ year old vines grown at an altitude of 2800 and aged 12 months in 70% French and 30% American oak. The color is saturated garnet with a purple edge, and there s sweet fruit on the nose with vanilla oak underpinnings. This is a well-balanced, well-structured, youthful wine that is full and rich on the palate, with spicy black fruit and good gripping tannins. Callejo 2006 Cuatro Meses en Barrica Ribera del Duero ($22) 89 This is a saturated ruby garnet colored wine made from 100% Tempranillo and aged 4 months in 80% French and 20% American oak. A complex aroma of box spice anise, caramon, caraway seed and black currants leads to a soft, round and well-balanced attack of brambly, black fruit and good, gripping tannins on a persistent finish. This very tasty wine is for early drinking. Callejo 2004 Felix Callejo Family Reserve Ribera del Duero ($134) 97 An incredible 100% Tempranillo wine from low-yield 60+ year old vines aged 15 months in new French oak barrels. The color is opaque garnet, completely saturated to the edge. A deep brooding fruit rich bouquet of blackberry and cassis gives way to a powerful palate packed with flavor and a long gripping finish. Callejo 2004 Reserva Ribera del Duero ($48) 95 This is a 100% Tempranillo from 50+ year old vines aged 20 months in 70% French and 30% American oak with an astounding opaque garnet plus color totally saturated right to the rim. Complex, balanced spice box aromas run right through the wine. While the attack is round and lush, this is a very structured, wellbalanced wine with lots of grip and a beautiful, persistent finish. Definitely a world class wine. Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalon 2006 Alto las Pizarras del Jalon Calatayud ($43) 90 Made from 70-100 year old Grenache vines and aged 11 months in 100% new French oak, this wine is dark opaque ruby in color with a purple rim and a fruit forward nose of dark plum and toasted oak. A fully, fruity attack shows flavors of ripe plum and nicely integrated vanillin oak with a rich, round and lush mouth feel. Additional time in bottle is likely to produce a wine that is still more interesting. Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalon 2006 Claraval Calatayud ($56) 89 A 100% Grenache-based wine aged 6 months in new French oak. Has a modern nose of fresh, rich black cherry fruit.. Attacks softly with flavors of dark plum fruit and well-integrated oak. Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalon 2005 Las Pizarras del Jalon Calatayud ($56) 93 Made from 100% old (70+ years) Grenache vines and showing a gorgeous dark ruby color in the glass and a subdued nose of dark plum and spice. Modern in
style with a rich, round and flavorful palate of layered ripe dark plum and red berry fruits with light oak spice. Very well balanced with soft but firm tannins and a long finish. Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalon 2006 Viña Alarba Calatayud ($9) 86 This is a medium to dark ruby colored wine made from 80% Grenache and 15% Syrah. Shows a nice, plummy nose followed by a soft attack of red fruit and assertive tannins. Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalon 2006 Viña Alarba Old Vines Grenache Calatayud ($10) 87 A 100% Grenache based, medium-dark ruby colored wine from old vines (50+ years) aged in American oak for two months prior to bottling. Plum, dark berry and oak spice aromas are followed on the palate by a light and soft, fruit driven attack. Shows pretty cherry flavors and assertive tannins that will soften with a little more bottle time. Bodegas y Vinedos del Jalon 2004 Viña Alarba Pago San Miguel Catalayud ($20) 85 Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented separately and then aged six months in new French oak. Dark ruby color with a dark plum nose with herbal clove and oriental spices notes all framed in oak. Spicy and slightly astringent on the palate. Bodega del Palacio de los Frontura y Victoria 2004 Crianza Toro ($NA) 88 Ruby in color with a pleasant red fruit and spice box nose. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied and well-structured with a sweet approach of nicely concentrated plum and cherry fruit. Bodega del Palacio de los Frontura y Victoria 2005 Dominio de Valdelacasa Toro ($NA) 87 A medium-bodied wine of ruby-garnet color that spends 6 months in new French oak. There s a nice, sappy concentration on the nose, and the palate is straightforward and, also, nicely fruited with low acidity and round tannins. Ready to drink now. Finca Munoz 2005 Cepas Viejas Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($40) 87 Made from 60+ year old Tempranillo vines and aged 12 months in new French oak. Dark garnet color ripe fruit and herbal notes on the nose. On the palate, there s ripe, sappy cranberry fruit and sandalwood and seed spices, especially cardamom, and fairly high acidity.
Bodega Gordonzello 2004 Peregrino 14 Tierras de Leon ($36) 86 This medium dark ruby colored, full-bodied wine is of 100% Prieto Picudo (a black skinned highly aromatic grape grown mainly in Spain) aged 14 months in new French oak. The Gordonzello vineyards are not irrigated, and neither artificial fertilizers nor pesticides are used. The wine has warm, sweet oak and plum compote aromas. Traditionally styled with a soft attack, showing very ripe fruit fully framed in oak with a tannic edge. Finishes on the dry side. Bodega Gordonzello 2005 Peregrino Prieto Picudo Roble Tierras de Leon ($18) 88 This 100% Prieto Picudo, is a medium garnet colored wine aged 6 months in French and American oak and displays a bouquet of.dried dark cherry and spicy, sweet oak The attack is firm with gobs of dark, spicy black fruit and violet notes and the finish is dry and firm. Merum 2006 Old Vines Grenache/Syrah Madrid ($18) 91 A dark ruby colored wine made of 85% Grenache and15% Syrah from high altitude (2200 ) vineyards located in Arganda del Rey, south of Madrid.. Sixty year old Grenache vines, dry farming, and extreme weather combine to produce very low yields. A very ripe, modern nose of warm oak, cherry and plum gives way to a soft, fruit driven attack of red fruits framed in vanilla oak. Very similar in quality to our assessment of the 2005 vintage. Very nicely balanced with gripping tannins on the finish.. Merum 2006 Monastrell Joven Jumilla ($11) 87 A medium-ruby colored, light to medium bodied wine of 85% Monastrell and 15% Syrah. The extreme weather conditions of Jumilla and dry-farming result in very low yielding vines 1.5 tons per acre. The nose shows fragrant blueberries and pomengranate framed in sweet oak. Attacks softly with mouthfilling, pretty fruith flavors and a dry finish. Viñedos y Bodegas Muñoz 2006 Legado Muñoz Garnacha Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($10) 86 This Grenache based wine is medium dark garnet in color with a sandalwood and spice nose. Attacks softly with pretty Grenache fruit, seed spice accent, and good acidity. Viñedos y Bodegas Muñoz 2004 Legado Muñoz Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($14) 89 A ruby colored wine made of a Tempranillo and Merlot blend with a fragrant nose of tea, leather, cowhide, and black cherry. This is a nicely structured, fruit driven wine that is youthful and fruity on the palate and persistent on the finish. Importer: Quality Wines of Spain New York, NY Viñedos y Bodegas Muñoz 2005 Legado Muñoz Reserva de la Familia Barrel Aged Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($20) 87
A medium-dark ruby wine made from 40+ year old vines and aged 6 months in French and American oak. Medium dark ruby color with a sappy, Grenache like nose. Has a round attack, but it s gunpowder dry on the palate. Vinicola Pizarro 2005 Picres Ribera del Duero ($48) 89 A complex, interesting wine of saturated opaque color with cardamom and caraway spice box aromas. There s good, almost creamy fruit on the smooth palate with orange zest and Asian spice notes. Good tannins on the finish, but more time in bottle is likely to improve this wine. Bodegas Real 2002 Palacio de Ibor Valdepenas ($22) 92 The grapes for Bodegas Real come from an estate located near the Jabalon River. This is a ruby plus colored wine made of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon from ecologically cultivated vineyards, aged 12 months in large French Allier oak barrels. Very fruit forward aromas with delicious, delineated black cherry fruit with quite high acidity on the palate. Overall, a very high quality wine that s delicious to drink today. Rezebal 2007 Getariako Txakolina ($22) 88 Made of 80% Hondarrabi Zuri and 20% Hondarrabi Beltza, varietals common to the Basque Country. Very pale in color, this wine has a green apple nose. The attack is somewhat spritzy with clean, crisp fresh green apple juice on the palate. Finishes nice and long with a sweet-sour character. San Prudencio Cueto 2005 Envite Crianza Rioja ($18) 90 A blend of 60% Tempranillo, 25% Grenache, and 15% Mazuelo from high altitude 50 year old vines aged 14 months in 60% French and 40% American oak that is medium dark ruby in color. A complex nose--smoky, cigar box nose, meaty, and earthy aromas with a violet note lead to a soft attack of pretty blueberry and plum fruit with accompanying smoky, meaty notes. Excellent value! San Prudencio Cueto 2007 Tinto Rioja ($10) 87 A straightforward, medium-ruby color wine made from 90% Tempranillo, 5% Grenache, and 5% Mazuelo showing a fruit forward nose of very ripe, red berry fruit. The palate is best described as round and soft with very fresh, pretty red berry fruit. Don t cellar this easy drinking wine.