Terroir: a concept to bring added value for producers and consumers Alessandra Roversi alessandra@al-gusto.ch
Objectives of the presentation A way of thinking food Academic + Practice Sense of place Dynamic, not static Actions What is it? How is it / can it be used?
What is still mostly meant by terroir
Definitions / History terratorium : land, earth, soil ( sea products?) 13 th century territorium from terra delimited by borders 17 th century terroir (-oir gives a function dortoir, semoir, bouilloire related to agriculture) linked to the French nation-building: local vs. national from negative to positive connotations no translation but used a lot in German, English to describe traditional, local products and foodstuff from physical factors to multifactors (particularly human factor) symbolic capital = brand equity
Definitions / History A Terroir is a geographical limited area where a human community generates and accumulates along its history a set of cultural distinctive features, knowledges and practices based on a system of interactions between biophysical and human factors. The combination of techniques involved in production reveals originality, confers typicity and leads to a reputation for goods originating from this geographical area, and therefore for its inhabitants. The terroirs are living and innovating spaces that can not be reduced only to tradition. Adoption of a charter and an international definition of Terroir at UNESCO International meeting, 2005 TERROIR = NATURE + CULTURE
Terroir as a cultural and productive local system COMPONENTS SPACE Urban planning Physical limits of space Ag production systems Natural resources Food systems PRODUCT(S) Agronomical opportunity and constraints Local governance ACTORS PRACTICES Know-How Community (history, common interests ) EFFECTS Ecological value (common good) Economical value (typicity of products) Cultural / Social value (place identity) Source: «Le terroir, un concept pour l action dans le développement des territoires», VertigO - la revue électronique en sciences de l'environnement, 2014
Ingredients & Products of Quality cuisine/ gastronomy quality raw ingredient = nature + culture = terroir food technology know-how / professionalism environment and territory culture and communication companies communities institutions source: qualivita.it
Interpretation of Quality Protestant Catholic Germanic Romance Plains Mountains Beer Wine Butter Olive oil Southern Europe: quality = culture, origin, taste, typicity Northern Europe: quality = technique, health, animal welfare, nutrition, hygiene
How to use terroir products? Real Life Virtual Global Everywhere Networked Local Limited reach Connected
Everywhere : real & virtual France has Champagne, Norway has tjukkmjølk.
Newtorked: global virtual reach
Connected: presence online, iconic terroir producers
Limited reach: local terroir for every day
What is local food? Individualization / personalization of the local : social, environmental and economical Know-How / Method Ingredient(s) / Products Production local Intern l local / tradit. local / new Intern l local Intern l raw products quinoa x x x x ancient potatoes x x x craft beer x x x x transformed products cooked dishes chocolate x x x x mozzarella x x x flatbread / lefse x x x x hamburger x x x x x
Why do we need terroir products? Overall image of the place at international level? Food tourism? Quality food for everyday for local habitants? More value to producers?
Think global
Gastro-diplomacy: food public policy, projecting terroir
Standardization of difference
Start local Foodscape. Bring Together across fields of expertise. Document. Story telling.
Start local Network producers and chefs, producers and artisans
Start local Faces. Names.
Start local Experience.
Start local Coach producers. Train chefs.
Start local Local label (for who, by whom, to certify what). Traceability.
Start local Long term public policies (related to other policies health, biodiversity )
Conclusion: untangle complexity Terroir? Craft Home made Local Natural Rural Healthy Pure Distinct Eating together Vulnerable Gratitude, gift Known origin Known producer Thoughtful Lean Traditional Not Terroir? Industrial Mass production Global Artificial Urban Dangerous / Contaminated Artificially modified Homogenous Eating alone Hegemonic Profit Hidden / unknown origin Unknown workers Compulsive Fat Modern