SPECIAL REPORT: WORLD WINE AWARDS 2004 Best in Show - International Red Fortified Trophy Grant Burge 20 Year Old Tawny Issue Date: October 2004 Grant Burge 20 Year Old Tawny Grant Burge is a fifth-generation Barossan winemaker and very respected in the Australian wine industry. Grant Burge Wines was formed in 1988 by Grant and his wife Helen. It is based at the historic Moorooroo Cellars, on the banks of Jacob s Creek in the heart of the Barossa Valley. Burge owns a 400ha network of vineyards in the Barossa and Eden Valleys, where he grows over 15 varieties. The Grenache, Shiraz a d Mataro grapes for our wine are grown in the Barossa Valley on deep, rich alluvial soils. The Mediterranean climate, with its cold, wet winters and generous spring rains, builds up the reserves of moisture the grapes need to ripen. They are harvested when they re slightly sweet but not overripe. After harvesting and crushing, the grapes are left to ferment on skins in open fermenters. After pressing, the wine is transferred to older oak barriques to mature for up to three years before being blended. We have the finished wine by the Solera method, in which a limited quantity of 20-year-old tawny is drawn for bottling each year before the barrels topped with selected younger wine. Grant Burge 20-Year-Old Tawny: Mid-brown. Fine savory stewed tea. Very, very complex. Long, outstanding. Regional Trophies: Central and Eastern Europe Royal Tokaji Aszu Eszencia 1995: Rich tawny gold. Marmalade intensity. Clean and good. Deeply intense, sweet concentration. Clean and firm at the finish. Regional Trophies: Alsace Albert Mann Tokay Pinot Gris Grande Cru 2002: Clean, fresh, good concentration. Off-dry. Good wine concentration and length. Good balance in a sweeter style. Albert Mann Schlossberg Riesling Grand Cru 2001: Pale golden. Mineral fresh and classic. A dry and mineral palate with clean flavor and very good length. Fine texture, a very good Riesling. Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Clos des Capucins Grand Cru 2002: Rope fragrant mango fruit. Off-dry. Moderate acidity. Good intensity, lovely control and long on finish. Domaine Weinbach Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvee Ste. Catherine 2000: Full, good fruit. Very full, good length. Lovely acid on the palate. Elegant. Medium dry. Albert Mann Altenbourg Tokay Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles 2001: Rich, powerful nose. Very concentrated. Elegant and long. Clean fruit and great balance.
Regional Trophies: Greece Best of the Golds Greek Sweet White Trophy Parparoussis Winery, Muscat Rio Patras 1998 The AS Parparoussis Winery was founded in 1974 by husband and wife team Athanassios and Vasso Parparoussis. They have been joined by a second generation, Erifili and Dimitra. Who: Athanassios studied in Dijon before moving back to the family farm and starting a winery. Where: Most of the estate s grapes are grown on 10ha of privately owned vineyards at Bozaitika and Lappa Achaias (a small amount of grapes from selected parcels are also bought from local grape growers). How: The Parparoussis vines are 25 years old and grow at an altitude of 450m on stony soil. The grapes are harvested in the latter half of August, then dried in the sun for up to 10 days before vinification. Why: The Parparoussis family believes low yields result in the production of the best raw material for creating great wines. They want to make quality wines the charm the consumer. Parparoussis Winery, Muscat Rio Patras 1998: Golden green. Fresh perfumed harmony. Varietal expression and acidity. Domaine Biblia Chora Kokkinochori 2003: Deep and intense. Strawberry ripe nose. Quite sweet fruit upfront by very savory finish. Very good. Mercouri Estate Cava Letrinon 2000: Fabulous, intense, with lots of black fruit and oak. Very complex, very well made. Parparoussis Epilegmenos Oenos Reserve 1997: Very mature color, very developed nose. Quite mature, good, complex. Domaine Biblia Chora Kokkinochori 2002: Modern fruit nose with a touch of tomato. Reasonable length. Domaine Gerovassiliou Syrah 2002: Full rich color. Spicy, meaty, gamey and good blackberry fruit. Rich, ripe, good extraction. Domaine Gerovassiliou Syrah 2001: Very light rim. Better than expected. Fruit soup but sweet in the end. Parparoussis Epilegmenos Oenos Reserve 1998: Quite mature nose. Meaty palate but with character and fruit. Still tannic. One for those who like old-style Spain. Decanter Bronze Medal Regional Trophies: Port and Madeira Smith Woodhouse Late-Bottled Vintage (Bottle Matured) 1994: Good color. Fine plum-red edge. Soft rounded nose, rich fruits of mint and spice. Big, rich, jammy fruit. Blackberry, good structure. Good length.
Regional Trophies: Portugal Quinta do Ameal Escolha, Vingo Regional Minho 2002: Very pale straw yellow/green. Crisp, clean acidity, showing some minerality and depth. Balanced fruit. Good. Decanter Bronze Medal Quinta do Portal Aura Douro 2001: Ruby. Tasty, but intense and fresh aromas of blueberry fruit, and very delicate floral. Well balanced with fresh fruit aromas in the palate, medium bodied with good finish. Quinta do Portal Grande Reserve Douro 2001: Black cherry and pepper nose. Quite gamey. Complex fruit and acidity. Good soft tannins. Quite tight, but will continue to improve with age. Up to 10 years. Quinta do Portal Touriga Nacional Douro 2001: Deep purple. Powerful aromas, rich berry fruit, good oak, chocolate, tobacco. Good quality tannins and structured fleshy wine. Long finish. Quinta do Portal Tinta Roriz Douro 2001: Fine deep ruby red. Rustic. Black olive and tapenade aroma. Hints of spice. Big, concentrated tannins. Firm structure. Quite gamey on the finish. Stylish. Will age well. Regional Trophies: Spain Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva 1996: Mint and leather on the nose and clean, lively fruit on the palate. Excellent balance between youth and age. Persistent. Bodegas Y Vinedos Vina Mayor Secreto Reserva Ribera del Duero 1999: Quaque red. Classic nose. Palate well balanced but rather lightweight. Plenty of fruit though, and a good length. Lustau Old East India Sherry: Dark amber. Rich, date and fig. But big spicy palate. Drink now. Regional Trophies: Australia Best of the Golds Australian Bordeaux Varietal Trophy Cape Mentelle Trinders, Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River 2001 Cape Mentelle was one of Margaret River s first wineries. First planted in 1970, it now had more than120ha under vine, with plantings of Viognier, Zinfandel, Marsanne and Sangiovese, along with more traditional varieties. Who: John Durham is Cape Mentelle s senior winemaker, and he is assisted in the winery by Simon Burnell. Where: Fruit for this wine is sourced from nine vineyards within Margaret River. It is a Bordeaux blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon (55-60%), Merlot (30-35%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit Verdot (2%) and a dash of Malbec. How: Light crushing is followed by a warm fermentation with regular pumping over. After malolactic fermentation the wine is racked into French and American oak barrels (50-50), of which 35% are new, for 15 months. Why: At Cape Mentelle they believe the keys to award winning wines are: perfect weather during the vintage; understanding the vineyards and ripening process; and making wines sympathetic to the quantities of their fruit. Cape Mentelle Trinders, Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River 2001: Very dark red color. Classic aromatic expression. Lots to it. Ripe and luscious with fruit spice. Good acid balance. Goes through with a great length.
Regional Trophies: Australia cont. Cape Mentelle Semillon-Sauvignon Margaret River 2003: Nice herbaceous fruity nose. Youthful fruit. Good richness and complexity. Should develop well. Henschke Julius Riesling Eden Valley 2002: Green tones. More developed than some. Racy, Good balance. Cape Mentelle Chardonnay Margaret River 2002: Barrel fermented, butterscotch. Balanced. Melon and butter characters. Fox Creek Verdelho McLaren Vale 2003: Floral and fruity nose. Nice fruit richness, well made, juicy with a good fresh quality. Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz Barossa Valley 2000: Bright. Complex oak and fruit. Rich and full. Very good, very traditional. Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz McLaren Vale 2002: Lovely clean, concentrated Shiraz spice. Ripe fruit, balanced. Very, very good. Grant Burge Meshach Barossa Valley 2000: Simple ripe fruit, high alcohol. Good style, coffee-aged character. Grant Burge Shadrach South Australia 2000: Deep color. Ripe cassis, sweet, ripe berry fruit. Rich weight, oak balance, good tannins, quite long. Yalumba The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz Barossa 1998: Powerful licorice spice nose. Lots of spicy oak and good rich cassis flavors. Good concentration with stylish balance, tannins and acid. Yalumba Mourvedre-Grenache-Shiraz Barossa 2002: Nice intensity of black fruits and peppers with a touch of oak toast. Full structure, very high alcohol, grainy tannins. Good length, Quite unique style. Grant Burge The Holy Trinity Barossa Valley 2001: Bright deep purple, red edges. Full of lifted aromas. Raspberry, mature, jammy and rich. A little straightforward. Dense, meaty and full. Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz Barossa Valley 2000: Good powerful. Cassis fruit richness, spicy cassis fruit, nice succulent tannins, fresh acidity. Well balanced, very juicy, ripe, rich mulberry fruit. Regional Trophies: New Zealand Villa Maria Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2003: Pale. Very grassy and herbaceous. Ripe, clean and correct. Very intense. Lifted and correct with a touch of minerality. Balanced and concentrated on end. Long.
Regional Trophies: New Zealand cont. Villa Maria Single Vineyard Seddon Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2003: Lemon. Muted nose, green bean. Grassy attack, round fruit palate, with good concentration and pungency. Classic. Villa Maria Single Vineyard Fletcher Chardonnay Marlborough 2002: Quite muted and restrained but with good underlying richness. Fresh and balanced with plenty of ripe fruit. Excellent acid balance. Very long. Benchmark. Nautilus Estate Pinot Gris Marlborough 2003: Very pale in color. Clean neutral fruit character. Inoffensive. Gently spiced. Neutral but there is fruit here. Some residual sugar. Nice acid balance. Very attractive. Villa Maria Reserve Pinot Noir Marlborough 2002: Deep purple tone. Spicy, hint of leafiness. Quite fresh attack with rich supporting fruit, good varietal definition and hints of complexity. Nautilus Estate Pinot Noir Marlborough 2002: Floral and perfumed nose. Toasty, mealy oak. Chunky and full flavored. Plenty of depth, Firm yet balanced. Potentially very good. Villa Maria Single Vineyard Seddon Pinot Noir Marlborough 2002: Very oak dense nose. Firm and concentrated. Regional Trophies: North America Best of the Golds North American Bordeaux Varietal Trophy Whitehall Lane Winery, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2001 The Whitehall Lane estate has been part of Napa Valley s wine history since the first settlers planted grapes in 1880. These days, it is owned by the Leonardini family, and its vineyards are based in the Rutherford region of Napa Valley. Who: Dean Sylvester has been making wines in Napa Valley for the past 21 years. Where: The grapes for the winery s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon come form the Leonardini Vineyard in St Helena and the Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford. The 2001 is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Petit Verdot. How: The grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The oak regime is primarily French, to add aromatics and lengthen the finish, with a smaller percentage of US oak to add layers of flavor. Why: The winemaking philosophy as Whitehall Lane is simple: grow the best grapes and make the wine with balance and finesse. The wine is as Napa Valley Cabernet should be, with intense, ripe fruit, slight earth tones an almost velvetlike texture and just the right amount of oak and ageability. Whitehall Lane Winery, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2001: Very deep red; sweet, ripe, glossy nose. A touch of herbs but not green; rich attack, not soupy. Well structured for ageing. Exciting, elegant and long. Trefethen Chardonnay Napa Valley 2002: Green hints; vanilla, apple. Not enough fruit on top of the alcohol and acid structure. Trefethen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2000: Dark pretty color; Blackcurrant, beets, raspberry jam, lead pencil, chocolate. Sweet, round, appealing, noteworthy, interesting, finesse.
Regional Trophies: North America cont. Mason Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2000: Young. Savory, aromatic nose. The fruit is fresh, just ripe enough, cool. Whitehall Lane Winery Merlot Napa Valley 2001: Lots of spice precedes. Rich plummy fruit and vanilla. Creamy mouthful, mature-fruited wine of balance and depth. Inniskillin Oak Aged Vidal Icewine Niagara Peninsula 2002: Aromatic in the extreme, fresh and luscious. Exotic perfume of rich, honeyed fruit. Superb length. Inniskillin Riesling ice Wine Niagara Peninsula 2002: Golden straw. Honeyed, minerally, dried peach. Elegant, well balanced. Good structure, spicy peach and honey flavors. Regional Trophies: South Africa Spice Route Flagship Syrah 2001: Fragrant, perfumed, violet aroma. Crushed wild flowers and violets. Tannic, bitter chocolate needs time to open out. Complex, intense, very long. 5-10 years. Fairview Solitude Shiraz 2001: Intense, rich fruitcake mix, almost Merlot. Very ripe, full, multi-dimensional. Tight and youthful. Long. Chocolate and roses, old fashioned and chewy but has attractive mellowness. Spice Route Malabar 2002: Deep garnet/bright purple. Spicy, chocolatey, mocha, cigar box. Very upfront. Modern. Some violet and spice. Multi-layered, very ripe, soft, juicy fruit. Lots of underlying complexity. Very long. Ernie Els Wines Stellenbosch 2001: Dark ruby. Spice, vanilla. Complex, rich and ripe. Multi-layered but has underlying capsicum and rubber flavors. Very good. Length and layers. Good Bordeaux style. Really fruity and jammy. Juicy. Blackcurranty. Very commercial. Fairview Jakkalsfontein Shiraz 2002: Dark ruby. Spicy, cigar box, mulberry. Dark fruit. Mellow oak and cloves. Tight, bit tough. Tannins masking fruit. Fat, ripe, sweet and spicy. Good underlying flavor. DECANTER BUYING GUIDE Barbaresco 2001 Recommended Wine Paitin, Sori Paitin Barbaresco 2001: Huge aromas of earth, leather, tar and roses ahead of textbook flavors, big, full and long very fine. Best New World White Cloudy Bay Chardonnay New Zealand 2002: By far the best 2002 Chardonnay at a new release tasting. Lemony yellow, white flowers and honey on the nose, ripe yet precise Chardonnay fruit with underlying minerality, great polish and persistence. A simply superb wine for drinking now.