Mer l o t Los Carneros Napa Valley 2005 R o b e r t S i n s k e y V i n e y a r d s N a p a, C a l i f o r n i a
Pos t -Ma n i a Re f l e c t i o n s on a Gr a p e Merlot as a leading indicator... Merlot came to the fore during a time of frenzied speculation as new wealth minted by the inflating tech bubble fueled hedonistic explorations in wine. The chosen libation, Merlot, flowed into glasses raised in celebration of venture capital endowments, mergers and acquisitions. There were few choices in those days. We all knew the names...a duck, a creek and a Bob or two. For the most part, the wines were nicely structured, slightly luscious and friendly renditions of the Right Bank style. Greed and wild speculation ran rampant in corporate wine boardrooms as they identified an underserved market and set out to make a buck. Vineyards sprouted overnight and techniques developed to make a soft and drinkable style of Merlot, even if the grapes came from unsuitable regions. The cognoscenti quietly bemoaned the new style. Many of these new wines lacked character and their low acid and over-the-top fruitiness made them difficult to pair with food. The wines sold. The grumbling grew louder, but heads remained deeply buried in the sand while corporate decision makers continued to insist on planting more grapes and manufacturing more wine. Sales departments were hungry and pushed winemakers, against their better judgement, to make more. Then a voice from popular culture said what everyone was thinking... and the bottom fell out. Panic ensued as customers abandoned the grape of the future and When times get tough, the tough get cooking. More often these days, people are cooking and entertaining at home and they are more sophisticated in their wine choices. Merlot vineyards were replanted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wineries could not change direction fast enough and some were forced to sell. That was four years ago. Today, Merlot slowly and steadily climbs back from purgatory as marketers focus their attention on more profitable varieties. It is now back where it should be, in the hands of artisans who care about its provenance and character. It s appropriate that during hard times it s making a comeback. Merlot, unlike other more fashionable varieties, missed the price increases of the past few years and good ones can be had at a relative bargain. Even more appealing is its comfortable flavor profile that appeals to a wide audience. A well crafted Merlot is a satisfying wine for both the novice and the experienced imbiber. It is the go to wine whenever the boss and her husband come to dinner. When times get tough, the tough get cooking. More often these days, people are cooking and entertaining at home and they are more sophisticated in their wine choices. I believe that people are rejecting mass-produced, manipulated, characterless, cookie-cutter wines and are looking for honest, well made wines to pair with their cuisine. Bling is out, integrity is in. It s time to forgive Merlot for its past indiscretions and let it be judged on its own individual merits... as all things should. ( 1 ) Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005 ( 2 )
Winegrowing No tes How do you know when a grape is mature? Some winemakers stress that physiological maturity (the flavor ripeness that develops largely independent of easily measurable sugar, acid and ph level) is the end all in gauging when to pick grapes for great wine. Winegrowers around the world, particularly in California, claim they have thrown out their refractometers in favor of plopping grapes in their mouths. They argue that the flavors they desire develop late in the game, often well beyond sugar ripeness. Sounds romantic: taste the grapes, bring them in when they taste good. Unfortunately, it s not that simple. Ideally and traditionally, farmers cultivated grape selections matched to their growing region. Well chosen varieties, clones and selections achieve physiological maturity in sync with their sugar, acid and ph levels. If the selection is not paired well with the region, the grape sugars up before it achieves physiological ripeness, forcing the vigneron to leave them on the vine past their prime and turning the winemaker into an interventionist. When faced with super ripe grapes, winemakers often resort to remedial techniques like re-humidification, adding water back to achieve reasonable sugar (and thus alcohol) levels. Others may find they need to remove excess alcohol through reverse osmosis or spinning cones to bring the alcohol back to marketable levels. The sole pursuit of physiological ripeness creates homogeneous, tired and prune-like concoctions. Aussie wine man Brian Croser says it best, dubbing these dead-fruit wines. RSV s approach is all about balance. Flavor ripeness is important, but not at the expense of sugar and acid. Selecting a variety and clone suitable to the region s climate and heat summation is the key to making an elegant, complex and cuisine oriented Merlot. It s an early ripening grape, budding and ripening up to two weeks before the Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the same vineyard. Carneros, with the maritime influence of the San Pablo Bay, has a climate comparable to Right Bank Bordeaux. The gentle march to sugar ripeness develops varietal flavor without loss of structure to create enticing, elegant wines that are as ideal for the table as they are for the cellar. RSV s certified organic and Biodynamic Carneros vineyards yield a balanced crop with a reasonably low leaf-to-fruit ratio, allowing more gentle sugar development. At harvest, RSV takes each small block ( 3 ) Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
of fruit as it reaches the ideal intersection of ripeness and structure, bringing in healthy, balanced fruit that allows the cellar to keep the lid on the tech-toolbox. A harvest like 2005 would be welcome every fall. Weather was generally cool, especially towards the end of the growing season, allowing for long hang time without the risk of too much sugar development or raisining. The resulting wine s tannins show welldeveloped, ripe and plush. The color is remarkably deep and expressive and the acids make the wine refreshingly bright and alive. After fermentation, the Merlot rested in 30% new French oak barrels for nineteen months. In blending trials, a cuvee of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc won the day. Certified Organic Vineyards, Biodynamically Farmed Tasting No tes Deep, lustrous violet color provides the initial evidence of near perfect growing conditions. Aromas of plums, brambly berry, vanilla, licorice and violet vie for olfactory attention. Merlot s stock-in-trade texture, tightly woven, but plush, provides a venue for lively flavors of plum, pomegranate, cocoa nibs, olives and herbs. Well-developed, muscular tannins provide balance as the flavors slowly resolve into a clean bright finish that begs another sip. (10/08) 174 Barrels Produced. Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005 ( 4 )
The Wine Bet ween M erlot has been maligned and overlooked. I ve grown weary of its defense. A good Merlot is a fabulous match for so many dishes duck, pork, sausage, interesting cuts of beef and a variety of cheeses. It forms the bridge between delicate Pinot Noir and burly Cabernet Sauvignon. Embrace it as such. For without a bridge, we sometimes get stuck on the island, which can become quite lonely. Until the next wine... Maria Revol Nut Server and Sauce Boat Revol is a revered French company. Family-owned since 1789, it is known for its fine and durable porcelain bake ware and china. The factory is located in Saint-Uze, deep in the Rhone Valley, where every single piece of Revol has been made for over 200 years. This is a refreshing revelation in today s world where a majority of products are outsourced. ( 5 ) Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005 ( 6 )
Braised duck legs with sour cherries Duck and Merlot is a mighty good match especially when you add cherries into the mix. The mild tartness of the cherries mirrors the fruit in the wine. Serve the legs with wild rice, Pommes Anna, sautéed greens or the side of your choosing. Serves: 6 6 duck legs, trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced 1/2 cup pitted sour cherries 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup dry red wine 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 cups rich chicken stock 1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Salt and pepper both sides of the duck legs well. 2. Heat a 12 inch sauté pan over medium heat and place the legs skin side down in the pan before the pan comes to full heat. This will allow the fat to slowly render from the skin while browning. Cook for 7 to 10 minutes turning once to brown the other side. Remove the legs to a plate. 3. Drain the fat from the pan and place it over medium high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of fat back to the pan. Add the onions and the cherries and sauté until the onions are golden, about 2 to 3 minutes. 4. Sprinkle the sugar over the onion mix and sauté for about 1 minute until the sugar caramelizes and bubbles. Add the red wine and thyme and reduce the liquid to almost dry, about 5 minutes. 5. Add the chicken stock to the pan and then the reserved duck legs, skin side up. Bring the pan to a boil, cover, and place in the preheated oven. Braise for 1 hour. Add 1 cup of water to the pan and shake to combine with the thickened stock. 6. Remove the lid from the pan and continue to cook for 20 minutes to caramelize and crisp the skin a bit. Add more water as needed,1/4 cup at a time, if pan juices become too thick. 7. Remove the legs to a serving platter. Strain the sauce and sprinkle the onions and cherries over the duck legs. Serve the sauce on the side. ( 7 ) Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Warm-spiced almonds The spice in the almonds is perfect for the Merlot and many other red wines with bright fruit. Try these almonds with a semi-soft cow s milk cheese or chopped and sprinkled over a spinach salad. Yield: 2 cups 2 cups whole almonds 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon each ground turmeric, cinnamon and cumin 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. 2. In a medium bowl, toss together the almonds and olive oil. Sprinkle the spices and salt over and toss well to coat nuts evenly. 3. Spread nuts in 1 layer on a sheet pan and roast for 10 to 12 minutes until the almonds start to split. Stir 3 times during roasting to promote even toasting. 4. Serve the nuts warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. ( 8 )
Mer l o t Los Carneros Napa Valley 2005 Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Text and Photos: Rob Sinskey Recipes: Maria Helm Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum Tasting and Winemaking Notes Eric Sothern Printed on 100% recycled paper using soy based ink R o b e r t S i n s k e y V i n e y a r d s N a p a, C a l i f o r n i a Fine Wines from Organic Vines 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 - tel 707.944.9090 or 800.869.2030 www.robertsinskey.com