The Finger Lakes: Riesling and Beyond Society of Wine Educators 39 th Annual Conference New Orleans, Louisiana August 12, 2015
Speakers Lorraine Hems Lecturer at the Rochester Institute of Technology and New York Wine and Culinary Center CWE, CSS WSET Level 3 CS with CMS AWS Certified Wine Judge and Instructor Bob Madill Executive Director FLWA Brand Ambassador - Glenora, Ch LaFayette Reneau and Knapp Wineries WSET Level 3 AWS Certified Wine Judge and Instructor
Finger Lakes Wine Alliance Incorporated in 2004 30+ wineries working together to promote the visibility of the Finger Lakes as North America s premier cool-climate winegrowing region. Mission Statement To increase the visibility and reputation of the Finger lakes appellation, its wines and wineries; as North America s pre-eminent cool-climate region.
Outline FLX location, AVA, geography, geology Growing circumstances, Lake-effect, Terroir History & Current FLX Wine Industry FLX Riesling Wines, Winemaking & Tasting Tasting - Dry Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Dry Rosé, Cabernet Franc, Sparkling IRF Riesling Taste Profile
Where are the Finger Lakes?
Where are the Finger Lakes?
The Finger Lakes: United State s Premier Cool Climate Wine Region
Breathtaking Vineyard and Lake Views
Finger Lakes Geography: 10,000 Years in the Making Located in the heart of New York State South of Lake Ontario and East of Lake Erie 11 long, finger-like parallel lakes oriented North to South Carved by the Ice Age glacial movement Main winegrowing lakes are Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Among the deepest lakes in North America 450 to 600 feet deep with some reaching below sea level
Where are the Finger Lakes? Finger Lakes vineyards lie between about ~42 N - 43 N latitude Other US cities in the same range: Boston, Rochester, Detroit Global in the same range Northern Hemisphere: Niagara Peninsula, Canada Split, Croatia Marseille (Provence-Alpes-Côte d Azur), France Rioja, Spain Sofia, Georgia Vladivostok (Primorsky Krai), Russia Follonica (Tuscany) Italy Sapporo, Japan Worldwide in the same range Southern Hemisphere Hobart (Tasmania), Australia Trelew (Chabut), Argentina Christchurch, New Zealand
Where are the Finger Lakes? Finger Lakes vineyards lie between about ~42 N - 43 N latitude Other Global Locations: 45.52 N Portland (Oregon), USA 49.92 N Bernkastel-Kues (Mosel), Germany 49.88 N Kelowna (Okanagan, BC), Canada 49.26 N Riems (Champagne) France 48.08 N Colmar (Alsace), France 46.22 N Tri-Cities (Washington), USA 38.17 N Chinon (Loire Valley), France 38.67 N Yinchuan, China 38.50 N Napa Valley (California), USA 45.23 S Central Otago, New Zealand 33.32 S Casablanca, Chile 32.88 S Mendoza, Argentina 26.20 S Johannesburg, South Africa
Timeline
Finger Lakes Geology Terroir of the Finger Lakes New York (April 2005) Larry Meinert, Smith College Tara Curtin, Hobart & William Smith Colleges Within the Finger Lakes region there are microclimates, paleodeltas, and glacial features that allow some vineyards to stand out from their neighbors. The rocks exposed in the Finger Lakes region are part of the Late Devonian clastic wedge that was deposited west of the Acadian mountains in a shallow inland sea. A thick veneer of Pleistocene glacial deposits in the Finger Lakes region covers the Devonian bedrock. Deglaciation of the Laurentide ice sheet is recorded by moraines, till, and glacial outwash, and the excavation and infilling of the Finger Lakes..over-deepened, V-shaped bedrock valleys that the Finger Lakes occupy
Finger Lakes Geology The paleodeltas formed at higher lake levels and thus are now present as hanging deltas exposed on hillsides adjacent to the modern lakes. Paleodeltas have a different grain size distribution than adjacent glacial till and thus cause dramatic changes in vineyard soil characteristics with locally sharp boundaries. Paleodeltas have been identified at both Fox Run (cf. Martin, this volume) and Sheldrake Point (cf. Cavatorta, this volume) vineyards and are undoubtedly present in other vineyards as well. The proglacial clay distal fringes of these deltas can cause problems with vineyard drainage whereas the proximal fluvial parts of the deltas can provide ideal drainage conditions. Thus, location of paleodeltas can have a significant effect on vine vigor and performance as documented by Cavatorta (cf., this volume).
Finger Lakes Geology Soils of the Finger Lakes belong to several different soil series. The major differences among these soil series are grain size distribution (texture) and protolith composition, especially the presence of clay and/or limestone in the subsurface or constituting a significant percentage of glacial clasts in till or reworked fluvial sediments. Grain size and texture mainly affect drainage, a critical parameter of vineyard performance. Limestone affects both Ca content and ph, whereas clay affects the availability of Ca, Mg, and K, all essential vine nutrients
Geology Yellow Genesee Group and Tully Limestone Purple Shales
Finger Lakes: Topography Varying Slopes and Aspects
Vineyards Planted East and West on Sloping Lakeshores
Primary Lakes for Grape Production Length Width Max Depth Elevation Miles Miles Feet Feet Keuka 20 0.5-2 181 715 Seneca 38 3.5 630 445 Cayuga 40 1-3.5 435 382
DEEP Lakes
Why do the Lakes Matter? The Lake Effect Lake Ontario to the North Warm air currents in the winter Cool air currents in the summer Depth of Finger lakes provides beneficial lake effect to the vineyards planed on the shores Warmer minimum temperatures in the winter Cooler maximum temperatures in the summer moderates Continental Climate Lake effect = combined distance from lake and rise in elevation Elevation of vineyard + distance from water + glaciated soils = vineyard diversity
Effect of Proximity to Lake Ontario
Winter 2013-2014
Terroir: Sense of Place Ancient glacial activity and flooding created in the Finger Lakes produced very complex soil patterns The greatest wine-growing regions in the world, the Finger Lakes proudly among them, have soils rich in: Limestone Shale Gravel FLX: Gravelly & low organic sites to loamy & fertile Site-Specificity: Vineyards planted on varying soils show great minerality and fruit characteristics that are specific to underlying soils
Wineries & Vineyards Today Over 130 Finger Lakes wineries 9,500 acres of grapes 23% Vinifera 2.200 acres 8,400 tons 500,000 cases Growing acreage of Vinifera plantings Focus on Riesling (~40%) & Aromatic Whites (~50%) Whites ~65% Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Gruner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc Reds Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Pinot Noir
5000 Wineries & Vineyards Today 2011 USDA Vineyard Survey FLX Vineyard Area 2011 4500 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 acres 1500 1000 500 0 Native Hybrid Vinifera Other
Vinifera Plantings 900 Acres for Varieties 800 700 600 500 400 Acres for Vinifera 300 200 100 0
Riesling: King of Finger Lakes Whites ~850 acres + 56% since 2006 ~3500 tons ~220,000 cases ~7% of U.S. Riesling market Even-distribution of Dry, Med-Dry, Med-Sweet Stylistic diversity Dry Lean, taut Off-Dry Lush, with balanced acidity Sweet Dessert-style (Ice Wine, Late-Harvest) Sparkling Small quantities
Riesling: Terroir Comparison Mosel, Germany Rieslings of incredible balance, dance of acidity & sugar (slate) Wachau, Austria Rieslings of greater weight, laser-like acidity, richness, profound waxed and firmly dry character Loess (silt, sand, clay) and volcanic rock
Riesling: Terroir Comparison Alsace, France Rieslings of greatly varied character, ranging from bone-dry and lean, to weighty, rich and unctuous Granite, limestone, sandstone, clay Finger Lakes, USA Riesling for every palate Soil types spanning the gamut of terroir, and styles influenced by all the great Old World Riesling regions
Red Newt 2012 Single Vineyard Riesling Vineyard Block Residual Total ph alc. IRF Retail Sugar Acidity vol. % Ratio Price g/l g/l Rs/Ta Sawmill Creek South Block 7.0 7.4 3.00 10.8% 0.9 $24.00 Tango Oaks 7.0 6.8 3.25 11.5% 1.0 $24.00 Bullhorn 10.0 7.5 3.15 11.2% 1.3 $24.00 Sawmill Creek Fred Block 16.0 8.3 3.08 10.0% 1.9 $24.00 Lahoma 51.0 8.3 3.00 8.6% 6.1 $24.00 Sawmill Creek North Block 67.0 9.8 3.00 7.2% 6.8 $24.00
Finger Lakes Vintages
Recent Vintages Growing Degree Days 800 700 600 500 400 300 2012 2013 2014 LT Avg. 200 100 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct LT Avg. = rolling 10 year average GDD=Sum (Daily Max Temp-Min Temp)/2-50 April to Oct. 31
3500 Recent Vintages Cumulative Growing Degree Days 3000 2500 2000 1500 2012 2013 2014 LT Avg. 1000 500 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct
Recent Vintages Rainfall 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2012 2013 2014 LT Avg. 2 1 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct
Recent Vintages Rainfall 30 25 20 15 2012 2013 2014 LT Avg. 10 5 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct
3000 2015 GDD & Rainfall 2500 2000 1500 1000 2015 LT Avg. 500 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct 25 20 15 10 2015 LT Avg. 5 0 April May June July Aug Sept Oct
Finger Lakes
Red Newt Vineyards
International Riesling Foundation (IRF) Riesling Taste Profile A quick way to understand balance Voluntary participation to inform and educate Ratio of residual sugar/acidity
The International Riesling Foundation s Riesling Taste Profile www.drinkriesling.com
FLX Wineries
Tasting Wagner Vineyards, Dry Riesling Caywood East 2012 Chateau Lafayette Reneau, Dry Riesling, Estate 2012 Hector Wine Co., Gewurztraminer, 2013 Sheldrake Point Winery, Gewurztraminer, Estate 2013 Keuka Spring Vineyards, Dry Rose 2014 Thirsty Owl Wine Co., Dry Rose 2014 Damiani Wine Cellars, Cabernet Franc 2014 Red Newt Cellars, Cabernet Franc Glacier Ridge 2012 Chateau Frank, Blanc de Noirs 2009 Glenora Wine Cellars, Brut 2006
2012 Wagner Vineyards Dry Riesling Caywood East Vineyard
2012 Chateau Lafayette Reneau Dry Riesling
2013 Hector Wine Company Gewurztraminer
2013 Sheldrake Point Winery Gewurztraminer
2014 Keuka Spring Vineyards Dry Rosé
2014 Thirsty Owl Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosé
2012 Damiani Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc
2012 Red Newt Cellars Winery Cabernet Franc, Glacier Ridge Vineyard
2009 Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs
2006 Glenora Wine Cellars Brut
The Future of The Finger Lakes The American Wine Market is ready for an emergence of The Finger Lakes as its very own Premier Cool-Climate Wine Region. As consumers, we are leaning toward fresher wines that have lower alcohol and have their place at the table with food; very quickly, we are moving away from jammy, high alcohol fruit bombs. We already show love for cool-climate international regions, such as Germany, Austria, and France s Burgundy, Loire Valley & Champagne. Utilize tools to provide Accessibility to the region & its wines, such as the IRF Scale
Selbach-Hobbs Project
Selbach-Hobbs Vineyard Site
What the Experts Say The Riesling from our region have been outstanding in quality for many years and now that Riesling in general is gaining in popularity we are thrilled. Kevin Zraly, FingerLakesTravelJournal.com, April 2008 From dry to sweet versions, the Finger Lakes is slowly but steadily cementing its reputation as this country s best source for Riesling. James Molesworth, Senior Editor, Wine Spectator Americans are turned on to Riesling and the Finger Lakes has what Riesling loves: life at the cool margins and layers and layers of slate. There s no better place to find crisp, refreshing, mineral-tinged Riesling in the States. Joshua Greene, Publisher and Editor, Wine & Spirits Magazine
FLX Cool! Luminosity of flavor Authentic potential to reveal aspects of site Phenolic journey that is completed in the context of lower phs and higher acidities Wines of verve, energy, tension & personality
Friday s Dinner Wines Bellangelo Gewürztraminer 2012 Bellangelo Semi Dry Riesling 2013 Boundary Breaks Ovid Line North Riesling Dr. Frank Lemberger 2012 Dr. Frank Gruner Veltliner 2014 Glenora Brut 2006 Heron Hill Cabernet Franc 2012 Knapp Dry Riesling 2014 Lakewood Vineyards Glaciovinum ( Iced ) NV 375mL Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc Lamoreaux Landing Unoaked Chardonnay McGregor Dry Riesling 2013 McGregor Cabernet Franc 2012 Three Brothers Zero Degree Dry Riesling 2013 Wagner Vineyards Dry Riesling 2013 Wagner Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2012
Acknowledgements Finger Lakes Wine Alliance www.fingerlakeswinealliance.com Cornell Cooperative Extension Finger Lakes Grape Program www.flgp.cce.cornell.edu/ Society of Wine Educators www.societyofwineeducators.org/ New York Wine and Grape Foundation http://www.newyorkwines.org/
Acknowledgements Wagner Vineyards Chateau Lafayette Reneau Hector Wine Company Sheldrake Point Winery Keuka Spring Vineyards Thirsty Owl Wine Company Damiani Wine Cellars Red Newt Cellars Winery Chateau Frank Glenora Wine Cellars
Thank you! Lorraine Hems lehism@rit.edu Bob Madill rjmadill@gmail.com
The Finger Lakes: America s Premier Cool-Climate Wine Region