Robert Sinskey Vineyards POV, LOS CARNEROS, NAPA VALLEY, 2013
ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW By Rob Sinskey from the Right Bank of Napa! Grape growers, like all farmers, are the canaries in the coal mine. We feel it first. Just look at what we ve experienced over the last five or so years: extreme drought capped by record rain followed recently by extreme, record-setting high temperatures. We are experiencing the very definition of climate change - unusual, erratic weather. When RSV adopted an organic farming model over twenty five years ago, we had several goals: Do the right thing in an area where farming and residential properties interfaced. Create world class wine in a responsible way for guilt-free hedonism! Work with, not against, nature in order to leave the land in better shape than when we acquired it. Create a positive working environment for all employees. Leave as small a footprint as possible when it comes to the winery and the mechanized farm implements by incorporating animals, solar, bio-fuels, etc.. Grow resilient vines that can withstand the looming issue of climate change. At the time, we felt that if climate change really was in process, then things were going to become more extreme and challenging to farmers in the not too distant future. Winemaker Jeff Virnig proposed that we institute a method of farming now known as regenerative agriculture. This farming model is not only organic, it also encourages practices that lead to carbon sequestering; see: https://rodaleinstitute.org/assets/whitepaper.pdf. This model would ideally create a healthy vine that could withstand weather extremes, such as spikes in temperature. Today we see that climate change is indeed in process and our adoption of the think globally - act locally approach has, so far, paid off and our vines are holding up quite well, thank you. However, we have had to rethink some varieties and selections in certain locations. For example, we recently replanted a vineyard that had grown too warm for Pinot Noir with Zinfandel and Primitivo and a Merlot parcel with Cabernet Franc. We continue to hone our response to the ever-changing weather by actively seeking out selections that will maintain their acidity and ripen later in the warming climate. As temperatures rise in some regions, single variety wines run the risk of becoming monochromatic. One of the better tools we have for making great wine in this less predictable environment is to blend varieties to make a great wine that is reflective of the vintage. In the Carneros regions, both Merlot and Cabernet Franc do a great job holding on to acid while Cabernet Sauvignon gets an extra long growing season for flavor development. Every vintage, each variety responds to the weather patterns in their own unique way, allowing us to blend these three varieties together in just the right proportions for a truly luxurious, guilt-free and hedonistic wine that doesn t hurt the planet or your palate. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2
Unlikely Points of View from Unlikely People - wouldn t it be nice if they acted on their words? #1. Whether humans are responsible for the bulk of climate change is going to be left to the scientists, but it s all of our responsibility to leave this planet in better shape for the future generations than we found it. #2. I m a fiscal hawk. I vote against all taxes, but I do believe the environment, and climate change is a bigger issue than fiscal deficits are as a risk to the nation. #3. We believe addressing the risk of climate change is a global issue. Key: #1. Mike Huckabee - Former Republican Presidential Candidate and former Governor of Arkansas #2. Vinod Khosla - Billionaire founder of Sun Microsystems #3. Rex Tillerson - US Secretary of State and former CEO of Exxon POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 3
Winegrowing Notes The second year of drought produced grapes with thicker skins and smaller berries for deeply colored, intensely flavored wines. Most of Napa Valley described the vintage as early, even and excellent. However, RSV s Right Bank of Napa Valley Vandal Vineyard is not like the rest of the region. Though we do share the excellent adjective, the relatively cool season allowed a longer hang time than most. Harvest was completed October 8th as the last block of RSV s organically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon was brought to the cellar, crushed and allowed to ferment on feral yeast. Gentle cap irrigation was employed to extract color and flavor without the bitter notes that can develop from more aggressive pump overs. Once dry, the wines were moved to small French oak barrels (approximately 30% new) where the wines rested for almost two years in the RSV caves. It was then blended by taste to take advantage of the unique way Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon respond to the eccentricities of the growing season. The result is an elegant, well balanced wine that is delicious young but will continue to improve for the next decade or more. Tasting Notes - By Jeff Virnig The difference between good and great wine is 45 minutes. Great wine is never a quick study as nuances can initially go unnoticed until the wine has time to air in a glass or decanter. I encourage decanting younger wines, especially if they are not over-ripe and were picked to optimize balanced fruit, acid and tannin. The 2013 POV is a wine worthy of decanting and best enjoyed over a long meal to allow it to reveal its subtle nuances. The aromas and flavors, when initially poured, are of red berry, chocolate-mocha, bramble and spice with just a hint of earthy minerals hiding in the background. The wine opens up to reveal a semiround, mid-palate texture with a hint of tannin and a lingering finish of macerated berries that remain on the palate long after the wine is tasted. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 4
THE ART OF THE BLEND Most people shy away from the heat of chili peppers when serving red wine. It s a shame because heat aside, most chili peppers have beautifully complex aromas and flavors. Aji Amarillo chili, a staple in Peruvian cuisine, has beautiful fruit and floral notes. Chipotle or smoked jalapeno, has smoky, earthy dried herb tones. Ancho chili, known as poblano in its fresh state, take on a subtle, slightly bitter, dark chocolate flavor and green herb notes when dried and ground. Combined together, in the right proportion, this triad of chili peppers become aromatically powerful. A sweet spice like cinnamon is the perfect addition to the chili pepper mix. Add it to boost flavors, round out the heat and add a subtlety fragrant bass note. POV, with its elegant balance of bright acid, subtle tannin and deep dark brooding fruit, makes a strong partner for this dish. The cinnamon pulls out a spice note deep within the aromas of POV. The ancho chili accents the chocolate notes from the Cabernet Franc and the dried herb notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon while the Aji Amarillo enhances the dark cherry aromas and flavors of the Merlot. Together, the cuvée of grapes that make up the POV and the blends of chili in the silky sauce sing in harmony in your glass and on your plate and make it hard to not lose yourself in the seduction created by the art of the blend. Until the Next Wine... Maria POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 5
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SLOW-COOKED PORK SHOULDER WITH 3 CHILI PEPPERS AND SPICES Serves 8 4½ to 5 pounds pork shoulder butt, boneless 2 tablespoons kosher salt 3 whole dried chipotle, split, seeds removed 1 3-inch cinnamon stick 6 bay leaves 2½ teaspoons ancho ground chili ½ teaspoon Aji Amarillo ground chili 2 teaspoons ground cumin 6 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1 cup tomato puree 1. Trim pork of excess fat. Leave a ¼ inch thick layer. Cut the shoulder into 4-5 large pieces. Trim off excess sinew and place the pieces in a non-reactive bowl. 2. Sprinkle with the salt and toss well. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 3. Heat a 10-inch heavy bottomed sauté pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add chipotle, cinnamon stick and bay leaves, toast until they are fragrant. Remove from pan to a plate, cool and reserve. 4. In a small bowl mix together the ground chili and cumin. 5. Remove pork from refrigerator and pat dry. 6. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Ready a 4-quart Dutch oven or similar sized covered braising pan. 7. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan or cast iron skillet over medium high heat. When the pan is warm add the pork and start to slowly render the fat. As pan heats up and the fat melts, the pork will start to brown. Brown pieces well all over, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat if the fat starts to smoke. Remove pieces to the Dutch oven. 8. Drain the sauté pan of fat except for 2 tablespoons. Heat over medium heat and add the sliced garlic. Toast the garlic until golden, about 1 minute. Adjust heat to prevent the garlic from burning. Pour the garlic and fat over pork. 9. Add the tomato puree to the pan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Cook until the puree is thickened and starting to caramelize on the edges of the pan, about 5 minutes. Add to the Dutch oven. 10. Sprinkle the ground chili mix over the pork. Then add the chipotle, cinnamon stick and bay leaves. 11. Add 3 cups of water to the pot. Cover and place in the preheated oven. Cook for 2 hours until pork is tender when pull apart with two forks. 12. Remove the pork chunks from the pot and place on a serving platter or in a serving bowl. 13. Use a fine strainer to strain the juices into a glass 4 cup glass measuring cup or bowl and skim off the fat, season to taste with salt. 14. Use two forks to pull the pork into chunks and long shredded pieces. Pour the sauce over and serve with rice, tortillas or the sides of your choice. POV, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 7
FINE WINES. ORGANIC VINES. Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail Napa, CA 94558 707.944.9090 robertsinskey.com Winemaker: Jeff Virnig Chef: Maria Helm Sinskey Photos and Text: Rob Sinskey Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum gluttons@robertsinskey.com